"Rond,  McMaUy&  cos 
handy  s^\dc  to 

r>tow  York.  City. 


Return  this  book  on  or  before  the 
Latest  Date  stamped  below.  A 
charge  is  made  on  all  overdue 
books. 

University  of  Illinois  Library 


M32— 30715 


RAND.  NmiYSC??^  2503. 

flANDY.GUIDETo^^--^ 


lEW  YORK  CITY 


eksiDE 

1  AND 

BURBAN 
tsORTS 


BROOKLYN 

AND 

STATEN 
ISLAND 


yLV*"*  

John  Wanamaker 

Philadelphia  New  York 

WITH  SPECIAL  SUBWAY  MAP 


Call  or  write  Rand,  WcNally  &  Co.,  142  5th  Av., 
New  York  City,  for  booklets  and  printed  matter 
giving  rates  on  any  of  the  following  hotels: 


ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J. 

Chalfonte. 
Galen  Hall. 
Haddon  Hall. 
Jackson. 
Rudolf. 

BALTIMORE,  M.  D. 

Belvedere. 
Kernan. 

BOSTON,  MASS. 

American. 
Boston  Tavern. 
United  States. 
Vendome. 

NEW  YORK  CITY,  N.  Y. 

Albert. 

Broadway  Central. 
Cosmopolitan. 
Herald  Square. 
Marlborough. 
Martinique. 
Park  Avenue. 
St.  Denis. 
Westminster. 


NORFOLK,  VA. 

The  Lorraine. 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 

Bingham. 
Green's. 
St.  James. 
Windsor. 

RICHMOND,  VA, 

Murphy's. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

Lincoln. 

Montrose. 

National 

Normandie. 

Rhode  Island. 

Riggs. 

Vendome. 


Hudson  River  by  Daylight 

The  Most  Charming  Inland  Water  Trip  on  the  American  Continent 


THE  PALACE  STEAMERS 

"HENDRICK  HUDSON,"  "NEW  YORK,"  and  "ALBANY" 

OF  THE 

HUDSON  RIVER  DAY  LINE 

Leave  New  York  Daily,  except  Sunday,  from  Desbrosses  Street  Pier,  8.40 
a.  m.;  Forty-second  Street  Pier,  N.  R.,  9.C0  a.  m.j  W.  129th 
Street  Pier,  9.20  a.  m.    From  Albany,  8.30  a.  m. 

ALL  SERVICE  DAILY  EXCEPT  SUNDAY 

Landings— Yonkers,  West  Point,  Newbur^h,  Pougrhkeepsie,  Kiogrston  Point, 
Catskill,  Hudson,  and  Albany 

Direct  connecting  trains  on  wharfs  for  all  points  in  Catskills, 
Saratocra,  and  Lake  George,  and  Easy  Connections, 
Tickets,  and  Baggage  Checked  for  all 
Points  East,  North,  and  West 

TICKETS  VIA  ''DAY  LINE"  ON  SALE  AT  ALL  OFFICES 
See  Time  Tables  for  Ideal  One-Day  and  One-Half-Day  Outings  from  New  York 

Send  6  cents  for  a  copy  of  Summer  Excursion  Book 

Appreciating  the  demand  of  the  better  class  of  tourists  for  comfort  and  luxury,  the 
management  of  the  Day  Line  have  perfected  their  service  in  every  manner  possible, 
keening  it  fully  abreast  of  the  times.  The  elegant  steamers  are  as  famous  as  is  the 
majestic  river  on  which  they  run.  Built  of  Iron,  of  great  speed  and  superb  appointments, 
they  are  the  finest  of  their  class  afloat.  No  freight  of  any  description  Is  carried,  the 
steamers  being  designed  exclusively  for  the  passenger  service.  Richly  furnished  private 
parlors,  giving  absolute  seclusion  and  privacy  to  small  parties  or  families ,  are  provided,  and 
handsomely  appointed  dining  rooms,  with  superior  service,  are  on  the  main  deck,  afford- 
ing an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  magnificent  scenery  for  which  the  Hudson  is  renowned. 

ATTRACTIVE  DAILY  OUTINGS  (EXCEPT  SUNDAY) 

TO  WEST  POINT,  NEWBURGH,  AND  POUGHKEEPSIE 

F.  B,  HIBBARD,  General  Passenger  Agent 
Desbrosses  Street  Pier,  New  York  City 

ANNOUNCEMENT— "Mary  Powell"  (Kingston  Boat)  service  opens  May  25th  leaving 
Desbrosses  Street  1.45  P.  M. ;  W.  42d  Street,  2.00  P.  M.;  W.  129th  Street,  2.20  P.  M.  On  June 
20th  the  Day  Line  Steamer  "Albany"  will  inaugurate  a  new  Special  Service  to  Poughkeepsie 
and  return,  leaving  New  Yorlt  landing  one  hour  later  than  the  regular  morning  boat;  making  a 
Triple  Service  to  Poughkeepsie  and  intermediate  landings.    See  Time  Tables. 

1 


HOTEL  BELVEDERE  m^^' 


Charles  and  Chase  Streets 

Within  s  blocks  of  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,;"Union  Station"  and  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.. 
^  "Mt.  Royal"  Station.    Modern.  Fireproof. 

Beautiful  Ball  Room,  Banquet  Hall,  and  Lounging  Rooms 

Rates  $2.00  per  day  and  upwards 

EUROPE,AN  PLAN  ALBERT  W.  RAIDT,  Manager 


SOLDIERS'  AND  SAlLORS'  MONUMENT  —  Riverside  Drive. 


CONTENTS. 

I.    An  Introduction  to  New  York,       ....    Page  3 


II.    Getting  about  the  City,   "19 

III.  Theaters  and  other  Amusements,    .      .      .      .  **  36 

IV.  The  City's  Parks,  Drives,  and  Public  Museums,    .  '*  43 
V.    A  Tour  of  the  City,   "64 

VI.    The  Rivers  AND  Harbor,   *'  iog 

VII.    A  Ramble  at  Night,   '  *  109 

VIII.  Churches  AND  Religious  AND  BEr^EvoLENT  Work,   .  119 

IX.  Educational  Institutions,  Libraries,  ETC.,     .       .  "  136 

X.    Clubs  and  Societies,   "152 

XI.    Greater  New  York,   **  i59 

XII.  Seaside  and  Suburban  Resorts,      •      .      •      .  **  173 


METROPOLITAN  LIFE  BUILDING- Madison  Square  and  23d  Street. 


RAND,  McNALLY  &  CO.'S 

HANDY  GUIDE 


TO 


New  York  City 


BROOKLYN  i  OTHER 

S  T  A  T  E  N  mmmm^^^^^MAi^  DISTRICTS 
ISLAND  |, "'"■■'■^■■■■■"jj  INCLUDED 

AND      life'  ^™    1 N  T  H  E 


ENLARGED  CITY 

By  ERNEST  INGERSOLL 


WITH  MAPS,  PLANS,  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


TWENTY-SECOND  EDITION 


Copyright,  1895,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1902,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1903,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1904,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1905,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1907,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 
Copyright,  1908,  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co. 

RAND,  McNALLY  &  CO.,  PUBLISHERS 
CHICAGO  AND  NEW  YORK 
1908 


NEW  SINGER  BUILDING-Broadway  and  Liberty  St 


I  3  0^  


I. 

AN  INTRODUCTION  TO  NEW  YORK. 

Advice  to  Inexperienced  Travelers. 

The  metropolis  has  many  entrances.    A  dozen  regular  lines  of 
steamships  bring  passengers  from  Europe,  and  many  others  from 
South  and  Central  America,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  ports  along  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  South  Atlantic  Coast.    Lines  of  steamboats 
connecting  with  railroads  come  down  the  Hudson  and  from  Long 
Island  Sound.    Five  great  railway  termini  stand  upon  the  western 
bank  of  the  Hudson  and  are  connected  with  New  York  by  ferries. 
Long  Island  is  covered  with  a  network  of  roads.    Finally,  in  the 
V  very  heart  of  the  city,  stands  the  Grand  Central  Depot.    It  will  be 
^  well  to  point  out  distinctly  the  landing-places  of  passengers  arriving 
"f^y  any  one  of  these  routes,  beginning  with  the  ocean  steamships, 
i  Cabin  passengers  may  go  ashore  as  soon  as  the  vessel  is  made  fast 
and  will  find  custom  house  inspectors  ready  to  examine  their 
baggage  on  the  wharf  without  delay.    Pick  out  your  trunks,  give  to 
'  -  the  inspector  your  "  declaration  "  and  your  keys,  be  polite  and  good- 
tempered  and  the  ordeal  is  quickly  and  easily  passed. 

Steamship  Landings. 

TRANSATLANTIC  STEAMSHIPS. 

American  Line. —  Pier  14  (new).  North  River,  foot  of  Fulton  St.; 
office,  73  Broadway.  (Southampton.) 

Allan-State  Line. — Pier,  foot  of  W.  21st  St.,  N.  R.;  office,  53 
Broadway.    (Glasgow  and  Londonderry.) 

9 


989393 


6  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Anchor  Line, —  Pier  54.  (new),  N.  R.,  foot  of  W.  24th  St.;  office,  17 
Broadway.    (Glasgow,  via  Moville  and  Londonderry.) 

Atlantic  Transport  Line. —  Pier  39  (new),  N.  R.;  office,  i  Broad- 
way.   (New  York  and  London,  direct.) 

Compagnie  Generate  Tratis  at  I  antique. —  Pier  42  (new),  N.  R., 
foot  of  Morton  St.;  office,  32  Broadway.    (French  Line  to  Havre.) 

Ciinard  Line. —  Piers  51  and  52,  N.  R.,  foot  of  Jane  St.;  office,  29 
Broadway.    (Liverpool,  via  Queenstown.) 

Hamburg-Ainerican  Line.  —  Pier,  foot  of  ist  and  Newark  Sts. 
Hoboken,  N,  J.;  office,  37  Broadway.    (Hamburg,  via  Plymouth,  for 
London,  and  Cherbourg  for  Paris.) 

Holland-American  Line. —  Pier,  5th  St.,  Hoboken;  office,  39 
Broadway.    (Rotterdam,  via  Boulogne  sur  Mer.) 

North  German  Lloyd  Line. —  Pier,  foot  of  2d  St.,  Hoboken;  office, 
5  Broadway.    (Bremen,  via  Southampton,  and  Genoa,  via  Gibraltar.) 

Phoenix  Line. —  Pier,  foot  of  7th  St.,  Hoboken;  office,  22  State  St. 
(Antwerp.) 

Prince  Line. —  Atlantic  Pier,  Brooklyn;  office,  61  Broadway. 
(Azores,  Naples,  and  Genoa.) 

Red  Star  Line. —  Pier  14  (new),  N.  R. ,  foot  of  Fulton  St.;  office, 
73  Broadway.  (Antwerp.) 

Scandinavian- American  Line. —  Pier  foot  of  41st  St.,  Brooklyn; 
office.  Produce  Exchange  Annex.  (Christiania,  Copenhagen,  and 
St.  Petersburg.) 

White  Star  Line.—  Viev  48,  N.  R.,  foot  of  W.  nth  St.;  office,  9 
Broadway.    (Liverpool,  via  Queenstown.) 

Wilsoit  Line. —  Pier  50,  N.  R.,  foot  of  Bethune  St.;  office,  22  State 
St.,  New  York.  (Hull.) 


COASTWISE  STEAMSHIPS. 

Atlas  Steamship  Co?npa?ty. — Pier  55  (new),  N.  R. ,  foot  of  W.  25th 
St.;  office,  17  State  St.    (West  Indies,  South  and  Central  America.) 

Clyde  Stea?nship  Company. — Pier  45,  N.  R.,  foot  of  Christopher 
St.;  office,  19  State  St.    (Charleston  and  Jacksonville.) 

Maine  Steamship  Company. — Pier  (new)  32,  E.  R.  (Portland.) 

Mai  lory  Line. — Pier  20,  E.  R.,  Burling  Slip  ;  office,  385  Broadway. 
(Galveston,  Key  West,  Fernandina,  and  Brunswick.) 

Morgan  Line  {Southern  Pacific  Road). — Pier  25,  N.  R.,  foot  of 
N.  Moore  St, ;  offices  at  Pier  and  349  Broadway.    (New  Orleans.) 

Munson  Steamship  Line. — Pier  14,  E.  R.,  foot  of  Wall  St.;  office, 
27  William  St.    (Cuba  and  Mexico.) 

New  York  &^  Cuba  Mail  Steainship  Company  {Ward  Line). — 
Piers  16  and  17,  E.  R.,  foot  of  Wall  St.;  office,  90  Wall  St.  (Ports  in 
Cuba  and  Mexico,  and  Nassau,  N.  P.) 

New  York  6^  Porto  Rico  Steamship  Co. — Pier,  foot  Dock  St., 
Brooklyn  ;  office,  i  Broadway.    (Ports  in  Porto  Rico.) 


4 


AN  INTRODUCTION  TO  NEW  YORK, 


9 


Old  Domimoji  Steamship  Company. — Pier  26  (new),  N.  R.,  foot  of 
Beach  St.;  office,  on  the  Pier.    (Norfolk,  Richmond,  etc.) 

Panama  Railroad  Stea7nship  Line. — Pier  57,  N.  R.,  foot  of  W. 
27th  St.;  office,  21  State  St.  (California,  Mexico,  Central  and  South 
America,  via  Isthmus  of  Panama.) 

Quebec  Steamship  Company. — Bermuda  and  West  Indies  Line. — 
Pier  47  (new),  N.  R.,  foot  of  W.  loth  St. ;  office,  39  Broadway.  (Ber- 
muda and  Windward  Islands.) 

Red  D.  ZZ/^^j-.— Robert  Pier  No.  10  Stores,  Brooklyn  ;  office,  135 
Front  St.  (Porto  Rico,  Curacao,  W.  I.,  La  Guayra,  and  other  Vene- 
zuelan ports.) 

Royal  Dutch   West  hidies  Mail  Line.  —  foot  Dock  St., 

Brooklyn  ;  office,  32  Beaver  St.    (Port  au  Prince,  Curacao,  etc.) 

Savannah  Line.—Viev  35,  N.  R.,  foot  of  Spring  St.;  New  Pier  35, 
N.  R.    (Savannah  ) 

Southern  Pacific  Company— (Formerly  Cromwell  Line.)  Pier  9, 
N.  R.,  foot  of  Rector  St.;  offices  at  Pier  and  349  Broadway.  (New 
Orleans  and  Galveston.) 

All  of  the  steamship  landings  are  adjacent  to  surface  cars  (tram- 
cars)  to  all  parts  of  the  city;  several  of  the  principal  hotels,  including 
the  Brevoort,  Fifth  Avenue,  and  some  others,  send  their  own  coaches 
to  meet  the  incoming  steamers  of  the  transatlantic  lines. 

River  and  Sound  Steamboats. 

The  only  lines  of  River  and  Long  Island  Sound  steamers  with 
which  we  need  concern  ourselves  here  are  those  that  do  more  than 
a  merely  local  traffic,  and  connect  at  their  farther  end  with  railways. 
The  River  boats  cease  running  during  the  winter  months,  when  the 
Hudson  is  impeded  by  ice,  but  the  Sound  boats  are  never  interrupted, 
and  rarely  delayed.  Most  of  the  Hudson  River  boats  touch  at  W. 
22d  St.  The  ordinary  time  of  arrival  is  between  5  and  7  a.  m.,  or, 
for  the  day  lines,  toward  sunset.  The  landings  of  these  boats  are  at 
the  foot  of  the  streets  following: 

Albany  Day  Line   „.Desbrosses  St. 

Albany,  People's  Line  (night)   Canal  St. 

Bridgeport  (Housatonic  R.  R.)  Market  St.,  E.  R. 

Catskill  (Catskill  Mtn.  R.  R.)   Christopher  St. 

Central  New  Jersey  (Sandy  Hook)  Cedai  St. 

Fall  River  Line  (Railroad  to  Boston)  W^arren  St. 

Hartford.   Peck  Slip,  E.  R. 

Joy  Line    Catherine  St. 

Kingston  (Ulster  &  Delaware  R.  R  )  W.  loth  St. 

"Mary  Powell"  Desbrosses  St. 

Newburgh  (two  lines)  Vestry  or  Franklin  St. 

New  Haven  (N.  Y.,  N.  H.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.)....  Peck  Slip. 

Norwich  (New  London  &  Northern  R.  R.)  Spring  St. 

Stonington  (Railroad  to  Boston)  Spring  St. 

Troy,  Citizens'  Line  _  W.  loth  St. 


10 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Railway  Stations. 

Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  Baltimore  &  Ohio  (Royal  Blue  Line), 
and  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.,  and  dependencies.  Ferries,  foot 
of  Liberty  St.  and  West  23d  St.  N.  R.,  New  York.  Sandy  Hook  Route 
Steamers  to  Jersey  Coast  Resorts,  foot  of  Cedar  and  West  426. 
Streets,  N.  R. 

Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  Lehigh  Valley,  New  York,  Susquehanna  & 
Western  R.  R.,  Station  in  Jersey  City,  with  ferries  to  Cortlandt, 
Desbrosses,  and  W.  23d  Sts.  The  Cortlandt  St.  ferry  is  the 
best  one  to  take  for  a  person  going  to  lower  Broadway,  Wall  St., 
the  Post  Office,  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  or  up-town  by  any  of  the  elevated 
roads.  The  new  ferry-house  at  the  foot  of  W.  23d  St.,  however,  is 
regarded  by  the  company  as  its  main  New  York  station,  and  thither 
goes  the  baggage  to  "  New  York,"  unless  otherwise  checked.  This 
ferry  is  provided  with  very  fine  boats,  and  a  full  service  of  **  Pennsyl- 
vania cabs,"  as  well  as  reached  by  many  lines  of  street  cars.  For 
Brooklyn  take  the  Annex  boat  from  the  Jersey  City  side. 

Erie  R.  R.,  Chicago  &  Erie  R.  R.,  New  York  &  Greenwood  Lake 
R.  R.,  New  Jersey  Northern  R.  R.,  and  local  dependencies,  Pavonia 
Av. ,  Jersey  City,  reaching  New  York  by  ferries  to  Chambers  St.  and  W. 
23d  St.  The  former  is  within  three  blocks  of  the  Warren  St.  station  of 
the  Ninth  Av.  El.  Ry. ,  or  of  the  Chambers  St.  station  of  the  Sixth  Av. 
El.  Ry.,  and  within  six  blocks  of  the  City  Hall,  Post  Office,  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  and  the  City  Hall  station  of  the  Third  and  Second  Av.  El.  Rys. 

Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western,  and  Morris  &  Essex  R.  Rs. 
have  a  depot  in  Hoboken,  whence  ferries  come  to  Barclay  St.,  to 
Christopher  St.,  and  W.  23d  St.,  N.  Y.  Barclay  Sf.  landing  is  near 
to  the  Barclay  St.  station  on  the  Ninth  Av.  El.  Ry.,  and  to  Park  Place 
station  on  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.;  it  is  five  blocks  from  the  Post 
Office,  and  seven  blocks  from  the  City  Hall  station  of  the  Third  Av. 
El.  Ry.  and  the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  this  ferry  should  be  taken  for 
Brooklyn,  as  there  is  no  Annex  beat  from  Hoboken.  At  Christopher 
St.  is  a  station  of  the  Ninth  Av.  El.  Ry.  and  street-cars. 

The  West  Shore  and  the  Ontario  &  Western  R.  Rs.,  and  their 
western  connections,  come  into  a  depot  at  Weehawken,  north  of 
Hoboken.  A  down-town  ferry  brings  pa^:sengers  to  the  foot  of 
Franklin  St. ,  near  Chambers  (see  £rie  R.  R.  above) ;  and  an  up-town 
ferry  crosses  directly  to  the  foot  of  W.  42d  St. ,  whence  cars  transfer 
to  all  parts  of  the  city.  Check  baggage  to  either  ferry.  Brooklyn 
passengers  go  by  train  to  Jersey  City,  and  take  the  Annex  ferry. 


BROAD  STREET— Looking  North  from  Beaver  Street 
11 


IS  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


This  finishes  the  list  of  stations  on  the  New  Jersey  shore.  At  pres- 
ent there  is  only  one  passenger  station  on  Manhattan  Island.  This 
is  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  next  to  be  mentioned. 

The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  the  New  York 
&  Harlem  R.  R.,  and  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R. 

unite  their  termini  in  the  Grand  Central  Depot  in  E.  426.  St. 

The  Grand  Central  Station  which  was  reconstructed  in  1898  will 
soon  be  superseded  by  a  magnificent  new  structure,  which,  with  its 
approaches  equipped  for  handling  all  trains  by  electricity,  will  cost 
nearly  seventy  million  dollars.  From  the  present  station  there  are 
convenient  entrances  to  the  subway  where  trains  may  be  had,  trains 
going  north  or  south  and  to  Brooklyn.  Surface  cars  connecting  to 
any  part  of  the  city  also  pass  the  door.  Baggage  express-agencies 
and  the  office  of  the  Central's  system  of  special  cabs  are  in  the  build- 
ing, and  ordinary  cabs  and  hotel  coaches  stand  under  cover  at  the 
side,  under  police  surveillance. 

The  Long  Island  R.  R.  discharges  its  passengers  in  Brooklyn  at 
its  station  on  Flatbush  Av.  (see  Brooklyn);  and  at  its  station  on  East 
River,  in  Long  Island  City,  whence  ferries  bring  passengers  to  New 
York  at  James  Slip  (down  town,  near  Fulton  St.),  or  at  the  foot  of  E. 
34th  St.  From  the  latter  landing  surface  cars  run  across  town 
(through  23d  and  426.  Sts.,  and  via  Fourth  Av.  and  W.  14th  St.);  and 
it  is  a  branch  station  of  both  the  Second  and  Third  Av.  El.  Rys. 

The  New  York  &  Putnam  R.  R.  (a  division  of  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral R.  R.)  runs  northward  through  Westchester  and  Putnam  counties 
to  Brewster's,  where  it  joins  the  Harlem  R.  R.,  and  connects  with  the 
New  York  &  New  England  R.  R.  for  Hartford  and  eastern  points. 
Its  station  in  New  York  is  at  the  155th  St.  terminus  of  the  Sixth  Av. 
El.  Ky. ;  but  it  has  a  station  for  the  receipt  and  delivery  of  baggage 
in  the  El.  Ry.  station  at  Eighth  Av.  and  53d  St.  This  road  runs 
trains  every  few  moments  to  High  Bridge,  Van  Cortlandt  Park,  and 
the  suburban  stations  on  the  branch  to  Yonkers,  which  constitutes  the 
Vonkers  Rapid  Transit  Line;  and  its  tickets  are  good  for  passage 
either  way  on  trains  of  the  Hudson  River  R.  R.  between  Yonkers  and 
the  Grand  Central  Depot. 

HackS)  Cabs  and  Taxicabs — Travelers  often  stop  over  in  New  York 


American  Tract  Society.  Park  Row  BiiilcLing.  St.  Paul  Building.  Ptek  Bank. 

Afltor  House. 

ST.  PAUL'S  CHAPEL  AND  CHURCH  YARD. 
Copyright  by  I.  Underbill 

2 


14 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


on  through  tickets  from  the  South  or  West  to  New  England,  or  vice 
versa.  All  such  tickets  contain  a  coupon,  entitling  the  passenger  to 
a  ride  in  the  coaches  of  the  New  York  Transfer  Company  across  the 
city,  between  the  Grand  Central  Depot  and  any  ferry  station,  or  to 
any  hotel  or  suitable  stopping  point  between  these  points.  These 
coaches  meet  all  the  great  express  trains,  and  may  be  taken  advan- 
tage of  as  indicated  above.  Public  carriages  may  be  hired  of  the 
train-solicitors  above  mentioned  at  the  following  rates:  Two  horse 
coaches,  by  the  hour,  $1.50  for  the  first  hour  or  part,  and  75  cents  for 
each  succeeding  half-hour  or  part;  by  the  mile,  %\  for  the  first  mile 
or  part,  and  40  cents  for  each  succeeding  half-mile  or  part.  One- 
horse  cabs,  by  the  hour,  $1  for  the  first,  and  50  cents  for  each  succeed- 
ing half-hour  or  part;  by  the  mile,  50  cents  for  the  first  mile,  and  25 
cents  for  each  succeeding  half-mile.  Lately  the  Pennsylvania  and  N.  Y. 
Central  railroads  have  each  introduced  a  system  of  light  cabs  to  carry 
passengers  to  and  from  their  stations  at  the  uniform  rate  of  about  25 
cents  a  mile,  the  former  carrying  'two  persons  for  one  fare.  Legal 
fares  for  public  hacks,  including  electric  motor-cabs,  are  as  follows: 

Cabs — By  the  inile — 50  cts.  for  the  first  mile,  and  25  cents  for  each 
additional  half-mile.  For  stops  over  five  minutes  and  not  exceeding 
fifteen,  25  cts.;  for  longer  stops,  25  cts.  for  each  fifteen  minutes.  By 
the  hour. — With  the  privilege  of  going  and  stopping  to  suit  yourself, 
$1  for  the  first  hour,  or  part  thereof,  and  50c  cts.  for  each  additional 
half-hour.    This  tariff  includes  Hansom  cabs. 

Coaches  — 5j/  the  mile.— One  dollar  for  the  first  mile,  or  part 
thereof;  and  each  additional  half-mile  or  part  thereof,  40  cts.  By  dis- 
tance for  "stops"  38  cts.  for  each  fifteen  minutes.  For  brief  stops  not 
over  five  minutes,  no  charge.  By  the  hour.— %i. so  first  hour  or  part 
thereof,  and  each  succeeding  half-hour  or  part  thereof,  75  cts.  From 
"line  balls"  one  or  two  passengers,  to  any  point  south  of  59th  St.  $2; 
each  additional  passenger,  50  cts.;  north  of  59th  St.  each  additional 
mile  50  cts. 

Taxicabs. — These  are  automobile  landaulettes,  seating  four  people 
comfortably,  and  are  painted  bright  red,  with  green  panels  on  the 
door.  There  is  only  one  tariff,  no  extra  charge  being  made  whether 
one  or  four  passengers  are  being  carried,  either  by  day  or  night. 
Fares  are  plainly  indicated  on  the  Taximeter,  so  the  passenger 
cannot  be  overcharged. 

Taxicab  Tariff. — First  half  mile  or  fraction  thereof,  30  cents. 
Each  quarter  mile  thereafter,  10  cents.  Each  six  minutes  of  waiting, 
10  cents.  For  each  package  or  trunk  carried  outside,  20  cents.  These 
Taxicabs  can  be  ordered  from  railroad  stations  or  from  the  leading 
hotels. 

Baggage  Express. — On  all  important  incoming  trains,  a  uniformed 
solicitor  for  either  the  N.  Y.  Transfer  Co.  or  Westcott's  baggage 
delivery  company  passes  through  the  train  seeking  orders.  He  will 
take  your  checks,  giving  a  receipt  therefor,  and  deliver  your  baggage 
to  any  part  of  New  York,  Brooklyn,  or  Jersey  City.  The  payment 
may  be  made  in  advance  or  on  receipt  of  the  article  at  the  house 


16  HANDY  GUIDE  W  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


which  will  be  in  the  course  of  two  hours,  ordinarily,  if  not  earlier. 
In  addition  to  these  transfer  companies,  several  other  carriers  have 
offices  near  the  great  stations  and  steamer-landings.  These  express- 
men usually  charge  the  same  rates  as  those  above  mentioned.  Out 
side  of  these  are  a  -legion  of  small  proprietors  of  "  expresses,"  and 
individual  owners  of  job-wagons,  whose  charge  is  only  25  cents 
a  piece.  They  are  honest,  as  a  rule,  but  their  responsibility  should 
be  inquired  into  before  baggage  is  intrusted  to  them. 

Ordinary  baggage  may  be  taken  with  you  if  you  employ  a  hack- 
man,  and  the  delay,  otherwise  inevitable,  will  be  avoided.  The  hotel 
omnibuses  get  baggage  for  their  patrons  very  promptly  also.  For 
those  who  do  not  hire  cabs  or  carriages,  that  American  institution, 
the  "  express  delivery  service,"  is  easily  available  here. 

Caution. —  Never  give  up  your  checks  to  any  one  but  a  uniformed 
train-solicitor,  or  a  regular  office  agent  or  porter  of  either  the  trans- 
portation company  which  holds  the  baggage  or  of  the  express  com- 
pany to  which  you  mean  to  intrust  it;  and  always  take  a  receipt; 
and  never  give  up  your  checks,  if  you  claim  your  baggage  yourself, 
to  any  person  except  the  uniformed  baggagemen  of  the  railway  or 
steamboat  line  by  which  you  have  traveled.  If  you  expect  to  meet 
or  visit  friends  in  the  city,  who  are  residents,  the  best  way  probably 
is  to  keep  your  checks  and  let  your  friend  manage  the  delivery  of 
your  baggage  for  you. 

Outgoing  Baggage. —  Vv^hen  you  get  ready  to  leave  the  city,  an 
expressman  will  call  at  your  house,  and  take  and  deliver  your  bag- 
gage at  any  station  for  from  25  to  40  cents  a  piece.  Dodd's  and 
Westcott's  companies  (both  of  which  have  many  branch  offices  in 
New  York  and  in  all  the  adjoining  cities)  will  check  your  baggage 
at  the  house  to  your  destination  in  any  part  of  the  country,  so  that 
you  need  have  no  trouble  with  it  at  the  railway  station ;  but  you  must 
have  bought  your  railway  ticket  in  advance,  and  must  pay  10  cents 
additional  for  the  accommodation. 

Hotels. 

New  York  has  always  been  proud  of  its  hotels,  which  are  almost 
numberless,  and  which  year  by  year  increase  in  excellence  of  service 
and  splendor  of  appointments.  They  are  scattered  from  the  Battery 
to  Harlem  River,  but  few  of  prominence  are  farther  than  a  square  or 
two  from  Broadway  or  Fifth  avenue,  and  all  the  foremost  are 
between  Madison  Square  and  Central  Park.   Hotel  list  page  195. 


1 


FLATIRON  BUILDING—Twenty-third  Street,  Broadway,  and  Fifth  Avenue. 


IL 


GETTING  ABOUT  THE  CITY. 

Elevaied  Railways. 

General  Remarks. —  The  system  of  elevated  railroads,  which 
carry  trains  of  cars  run  by  electricity,  now  consists  of  four  main 
double-track  lines,  and  a  few  short  branches.  All  come  together  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  island  in  a  terminal  station  at  South 
Ferry  alongside  the  Battery.  Two  lines  are  on  the  West  Side  and 
two  on  the  East,  and  all  reach  to  the  Harlem  River,  one  (the  "  Sub- 
urban ")  continuing  beyond,  through  to  Fordham. 

These  trains  run  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  minutes  (or  even  less, 
during  the  busiest  hours  of  morning  and  evening)  all  the  day  and 
evening;  and  from  midnight  to  sunrise  the  intervals  between  trains 
are  not  more  than  five  minutes.  Strangers  should  be  careful  to 
note  the  sign  at  the  foot  of  the  station- stairs  which  informs  them 
whether  that  station  is  for  "  up-town  "  or  down-town  "  trains  ;  but 
if  they  forget  and  find  themselves  on  the  wrong  side,  they  will  be 
passed  in  free  at  the  opposite  station  if  they  explain  the  case  to  the 


$UBWAY  STREET  ENTRANCE— At  69th  Street. 

19 


City  Hall 


World 


20 


CITY  HA 


21 


22  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


gateman  where  the  mistake  is  made.  The  fare  on  all  roads  and  for 
all  distances  is  5  cents.  A  ticket  must  be  bought  and  thrown  into 
the  gateman's  glass  chopper"  box  at  the  entrance  to  the  platform. 
On  the  West  side,  certain  trains  going  down  town  take  the  Ninth  Av. 
route,  while  others  go  via  Sixth  Av.;  others  proceed  only  as  far  as 
Cortlandt  or  Rector  Streets,  instead  of  going  to  the  ferry.  Up-town 
West  Side  trains  go  both  to  Harlem  and  58th  St.  (Central  Park).  On 
the  East  Side,  going  down,  some  trains  go  to  South  Ferry  and  others 
to  the  City  Hall;  and  up-town,  both  Second  and  Third  Av.,  trains  use 
the  same  track  from  the  Battery  to  Chatham  Sq.,  and  must  be  distin- 
guished. The  gaiemen  usually  call  out  the  destination  of  each  train 
as  it  approaches,  but  anyone  may  quickly  learn  to  recognize  the  signs 
on  the  cars,  and  the  confusion  is  really  not  as  great  as  it  appears  to 
be.  All  of  the  roads  are  now  consolidated  and  under  the  single 
ownership  and  management  of  the  Interborough  Rapid  Transit  Co., 
whose  general  offices  are  at  13  Park  Row. 
The  stations  are  as  follows  : 

Ninth  Avenue  Line. — South  Ferry,  Battery  PI.,  Rector,  Cort- 
landt, Barclay,  Warren,  Franklin,  Desbrosses,  Houston,  Christopher, 
W.  14th,  23d,  30th,  34th,  42d,  50th,  59th,  66th,  72d,  8ist,  93d,  104th, 
ii6th,  125th,  130th,  135th,  140th,  145th,  and  155th  Sts. 

Sixth  Avenue  Line. — South  Ferry,  Battery  PL,  Rector  and  Cort- 
landt Sts.,  Park  PI.,  Chambers,  Franklin,  Bleecker,  8th,  14th,  i8th, 
23d,  28th,  33d,  42d,  and  50th  Sts.  (branch  to  58th  St.  and  Sixth  Av.),  53d 
St.  and  Eighth  Av.,  59th  St.  and  Columbus  Av.,  66th,  72d,  8ist,  93d, 
104th,  ii6th,  125th,  130th,  135th,  140th,  145th,  and  155th  Sts. 

Third  Avenue  Line.  —  South  Ferry,  Hanover  Sq.,  Fulton  St., 
Franklin  Sq.,  Chatham  Sq.  (whence  branch  to  City  Hall),  Canal, 
Grand,  Houston,  E.  9th,  14th,  i8th,  23d,  28th,  34th,  and  42d  Sts. 
(branch  to  Grand  Central  Station),  47th,  53d,  59th,  67th,  76th,  84th, 
89th,  99th,  io6th,  ii6th,  125th,  and  129th  Sts.,  thence  to  133d,  138th, 
143d,  149th,  156th,  i6ist,  i66th,  and  169th  Sts. ,  Wendover  Av. ,  174th 
and  177th  Sts.  (Tremont  Av.),  183d  St.,  Pelham  Av.  (Fordham), 
and  Bronx  Park  Station. 

Second  Avenue  Line.— South  Ferry.  Hanover  Sq.,  Fulton  St., 
Franklin  Sq.,  Chatham  Sq.,  (branch  to  City  Hall),  Canal,  Grand, 
Rivington,  ist,  8th,  14th,  19th,  23d,  34th,  42d,  50th,  57th,  65th,  8oth, 
86th,  92d,  99th,  iiith,  117th,  i2ist,  127th,  and  129th  Sts.,  thence  via 
Third  Avenue  line  to  Pelham  Av. 


GETTING  ABOUT  THE  CITY. 


23 


Subway  Rapid  Transit  Railroad.  —  With  only  a  few  months' 
delay  over  the  time  set  by  the  eontraetors,  New  York's  great  under- 
ground rapid  transit  system  was,  on  Oetober  27,  1904,  opened  to  the 
public.  This  system  is  one  of  the  greatest  municipal  undertakings 
of  modern  times,  and,  it  is  estimated,  cost  fifty  millions  of  dollars. 
The  double-track  system  for  both  express  and  local  trains  offers 
unexcelled  means  of  rapid  transit  that  has  already  done  much  to 


EIGHTEENTH  STREET  STATION  —  Showing  concrete  and  steel  construction. 


relieve  the  congestion  on  the  elevated  and  surface  lines.  The  trains 
are  run  frequently,  and  the  running  time  of  express  trains  from 
Brooklyn  Bridge  to  125th  St.  is  about  15  minutes.  Local  trains,  also, 
make  good  time,  stopping  at  convenient  stations.  For  those  wishing 
to  reach  the  Grand  Central  Station  from  Brooklyn  Bridge  or  the  City 


24 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Hall,  the  subway  affords  the  quickest  and  most  convenient  means  ot 
transit.  Tickets  are  purchased  at  the  underground  booths  and 
deposited  in  chopper  boxes,  the  same  as  on  the  elevated  road. 
The  tourist  will  be  well  repaid  by  a  trip  through  the  bore  of  this 
greatest  of  all  underground  railroads,  from  the  Brooklyn  Bridge 
to  any  of  the  up-town  stations  and  return.  See  map  for  list  of 
stations  and  routes. 

Tunnels. 

Manhattan  &  Brooklyn  Tunnel  is  now  running,  which  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Subway  Rapid  Transit  Railroad,  under  the  East 
River  from  Broad  St.,  to  Flatbush  and  Atlantic  Av.  station  of  the 
Long  Island  Railway. 

New  York  &  New  Jersey  Railroad  Tunnel  connects  Manhattan 
at  Morton  St. ,  with  Jersey  City  at  15th  St.  This  line  was  opened 
Febuary  25,  1908,  and  extends  under  Greenwich  St. ,  and  Christo- 
pher, to  33d  St.,  Terminal,  via  Sixth  Avenue. 

The  Hudson  and  Manhattan  Tunnels,  now  under  construction,  will 
run  from  Courtlandt  St.,  New  York  City,  to  Montgomery  St.,  Jersey 
City,  and  will  connect  with  the  Broadway  Subway  at  Fulton  St. 
Trolleys  will  run  from  Courtlandt  St.  to  Newark  and  other  suburban 
towns.  On  the  Jersey  side,  the  Pennsylvania,  Erie,  and  Lackawanna 
will  connect  with  these  tunnels,  and  the  New  York  &  New  Jersey 
Railroad  Tunnel. 

The  Belmont  Tunnel,  now  under  construction  at  42d  St. ,  to  Long 
Island  will  connect  with  the  trolleys  in  Queens  County. 

The  map  in  the  back  of  the  book  shows  route  of  all  the  above 
Tunnels. 

Surface  Car  Routes. 

Lines  of  cars  run  north  and  south  between  the  Battery  or  City  Hall 
and  the  upper  part  of  the  island  on  every  avenue  except  Fifth,  and 
most  of  them  extend  to  the  Harlem  River.  The  Bel^  line  follows  the 
water-front  on  both  sides  as  far  north  as  sqth  St.,  where  it  crosses  the 
city.  The  Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Avenue  lines  go  up  the 
Bowery  from  the  City  Hall  as  far  as  the  Cooper  Union,  and  there 
diverge  to  their  respective  avenues.  The  last  named  follows  Fourth 
Av.  to  44th  St.  and  thence  follows  Madison  Av.  to  Harlem.  Care 
should  be  taken  on  the  Second  and  Fourth  Av.  lines,  coming  down 
town,  to  learn  whether  the  car  goes  farther  than  Astor  Place,  where 
a  transfer  will,  however,  be  given  south  on  Broadway.  The  Broad- 
way line  runs  along  Broadway  and  Seventh  Av.  (above  44th  St.) 


GETTING  ABOUT  THE  CITY. 


25 


between  the  Battery  (South  Ferries)  and  59th  St.  (Central  Park).  The 
Columbus  Av,  cars  follow  the  same  course  as  far  as  53d  St.,  where 
they  turn  west  to  Columbus  (Ninth)  Av.,  and  thence  go  north  to  iioth 
St.,  where  passengers  are  transferred  to  the  Lenox  Av.  line  or  East 
River  lines.  The  Lexington  Av,  line  follows  Broadway  from  the 
Battery  to  23d  St.  and  then  turns  east  to  Lexington  Av.  and  pursues 
that  avenue  to  the  Harlem  River.  Lines  run  from  the  Post  Office  to 
and  along  Sixth,  Seventh,  Eighth,  Ninth  SiVidi  Tenth  Avs.,  and  their 
cars  continue  along  or  connect  with  the  Columbus  Av.,  Amster- 
dam Av.,  or  Boulevard  lines,  which  run  north  over  Morningside 
Heights  to  125th  St.  Another  line,  from  125th  St.,  extends  up  Am- 
sterdam Av.  to  Fort  George. 

Cross-Town  Lines  reach  from  river  to  river  at  intervals  of  half  a 
mile  (or  less,  down  town),  connecting  all  ferries,  steamship  landings, 
railway  stations,  and  hotels  with  one  another,  either  directly  or  by 
exchanging  transfers  with  north  and  south  routes. 

Brooklyn  Street  and  Elevated  Cars  of  almost  all  lines  may  be 
boarded  at  the  New  York  entrance  to  the  Brooklyn  Bridge. 

Lines  North  of  Harlem  River. — The  rapid  occupation  of  the  terri- 
tory north  of  the  Harlem  River,  successively  enlarged  by  recent 
annexations  to  the  present  distant  boundaries  of  Greater  New  York, 
has  been  accompanied  and  aided  by  a  rapid  extension  of  electric 
trolley  lines,  which  now  make  all  its  parts  accessible.  These  converge 
upon  two  points  of  contact  with  the  city  below  the  Harlem,  viz.: 
Harle^n  Bridge  (at  Third  Av.)  and  Central  Bridge.  All  these  lines 
as  well  as  the  line  terminating  at  135th  St.  and  8th  Av. ,  interchange 
transfers  at  all  junction  points.    The  principal  lines  are  as  follows: 

Southern  Boulevard  &^  West  Farms, — East  from  Harlem  Bridge, 
through  Morrisania,  along  the  Southern  Boulevard  to  Crotona  Park. 
West  Farms,  and  Bronx  Park. 

Westchester  &^  Mount  Vernon  Line, — Along  Third  Av.  from 
Harlem  Bridge  to  Westchester.  Mount  Vernon  Line  via  Third  Av.  to 
Fordham  Square,  meeting  Webster  Av.  car  going  to  Mount  Vernon, 
west  of  Bronx  Park,  through  Bronxdale,  Williamsbridge,  Wakefield, 
and  Washingtonville,  to  Mount  Vernon  and  connections  beyond,  to 
Yonkers,  White  Plains,  Tarrytown,  Eastchester,  and  New  Rochelle. 

Fordham  Line. — Out  Third  Av.,  past  Crotona  Park  to  Fordham, 
then  north  on  Webster  Av.  to  Bedford  Park  and  Woodlawn. 


26 


HAND  V  GUIDE  TO  NE  W  YORK  CITY, 


To  High  Bridge,  North  from  Harlem  Bridge  along  Willis 

Av.  to  i6ist  St.,  west  to  Sedgwick  Av.,  and  north  to  High  Bridge. 
This  road  is  striving  to  continue  its  line  up  the  elevated  eastern  bank 
of  the  Harlem  to  Kingsbridge,  where  a  line  is  already  laid. 

Fifth  Avenue  Automobile  Stages  run  along  Fifth  Av.  between 
Washington  Sq.  and  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art,  8ist  St.  In 
summer  riding  is  very  comfortable  and  many  interesting  places  can 
be  seen.    Fare  is  lo  cents. 


Ferries. 


An  alphabetical  list  of  the  ferries  by  which  Manhattan  is  connected 
with  the  surrounding  shores  is  as  follows: 

To  Astoria. —  From  E.  92d  St.,  every  15  minutes. 
Atlantic  Av.  Ferry. —  ;:5ee  Brooklyn^  3. 
Barclay  St.  Ferry. —  See  Hobokeii,  i. 

To  Bay  Ridge  and  Coney  Island  routes. — From  the  Battery  half- 
hourly. 

To  Bedloe's  Island  (Statue  of  Liberty). —  From  the  Battery,  hourly 
to  7.30  p.  m. 

To  Blackweir s  Island.~¥oot  of  E.  26th  St.,  twice  daily. 
To  College  Point. —  From  E.  99th  St. ,  hourly  during  daylight,  call- 
ing at  North  Beach. 

To  Brooklyn. —  As  follows:    (See  Map.) 

1.  To  39th  St.,  South  Brooklyn,  from  the  Battery. 

2.  To  Hamilton  Av.,  from  the  Baftery. 

3.  To  Atlantic  Av.,  from  the  Battery. 

4.  To  Montague  St.  from  Wall  St.  (does  not  run  evenings  or 
Sundays). 

5.  To  Fulton  St.  from  Fulton  St. 

6.  To  Bridge  St.  from  James  St. 

7.  To  Mam  St.,  from  Catherine  St. 

8.  To  Broadway,  E.  D.,  from  Roosevelt  St. 

9.  To  Broadway,  E.  D.,  from  Grand  St,  and  from  E.  42d  St. 

10.  To  Grand  St.,  E.  D.,  from  Grand  St. 

11.  To  Grand  St.,  E.  D.,  from  Houston  St. 

12.  To  Greenpoint  (Brooklyn,  E.  D.)  from  E.  loth  St. 

13.  To  Broadway,  E.  D.,  from  E.  23d  St. 

14.  To  Greenpoint,  E.  D.,  from  E.  23d  St. 
Catherine  Ferry. —  See  Brooklyn,  7. 
Christopher  St.  Ferry. —  See  Hoboken,  2. 
Cojnmunipaw  Ferry. —  See  Jersey  City,  i. 
Cor  1 1  and t  Sv.  Ferry. —  See  Jersey  City,  2. 
Desbrosses  St.  Ferry. —  Bee  Jersey  City,  4. 
To  Ely  Stan  Fields. —  See  Hobokeny  3. 


28 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


To  Fort  Lee.— From  W.  129th  St.,  half-hourly  via  Undercliff. 

Fourteenth  St.  Ferry. —  See  Hoboken,  3. 
Fraiiklm  St.  Ferry. —  See  Wee  haw  ken,  i. 
Fulton  Ferry. —  See  Brook ly 71,  5. 
To  Governor's  Island. —  From  the  Battery,  hourly. 
Grand  St.  Ferry. —  See  Brooklyn,  9  and  10. 
To  Greenpoint. —  See  Brooklyn,  12  and  14. 
Hamilton  Ferry. —  See  Brooklyn^  2. 
To  Hoboken. —  As  follows: 

1.  To  First  St.  (D..  L.  &  W.  R.  R.)  from  Barclay  St. 

2.  To  the  same  point,  from  Christopher  St. 

3.  To  14th  St.  (Elysian  Fields),  from  W.  23d  St. 

To  Hunter's  Point  (Long  Island  R.  R.).— See  Long  Island  City, 
To  Jersey  City. — As  follows:    (See  Map.) 

1.  To  Communipaw  (Central  R.  R.  of  N.  J.),  from  Liberty  St. 

2.  To  Montgomery  St.  (Pennsylvania  R.  R.)  from  Cortlandt  St 

3.  To  the  same  point,  from  Desbrosses  St. 

4.  To  the  same  point,  from  W.  23d  St. 

5.  To  Pavonia  Av.  ("  Erie  "  R.  R.),  from  Chambers  St. 

6.  To  Bay  St.,  from  W.  13th  St. 

7.  To  Pavonia  Av.  ("  Erie  "  R.  R.),  from  W.  23d  St. 
To  Long  Island  City. — As  follows: 

1.  To  Hunter's  Point  (Long  Island  R.  R.),  from  James  Slip. 

2.  To  the  same  point,  from  E.  34th  St. 

To  North  Cor  Bowery)  Beach. —  See  College  Point. 
Pavonia  Ferry. —  See  Jersey  City,  4  and  6. 
Roosevelt  Ferry. —  See  Brooklyn,  8. 
To  South  Brooklyn. —  See  Brooklyn,  1  and  2. 

To  Staten  Island.  — To  St.  George's  (S.  I.  Rapid  Transit  R.  R.), 
from  the  Battery,  half -hourly  to  midnight. 

Twenty -third  St. — See  Brooklyn,i2,  and  14,  and  Jersey  Ciiy,s  and  7. 
Wall  St  Ferry. —  See  Brooklyn,  4. 
To  Weehawken : 

1.  To  West  Shore  R.  R.  station,  from  Franklin  St. 

2.  To  North  Weehawken,  from  W.  42d  St. 

3.  To  West  Shore  R.  R.  station,  from  W.  42dSt. 


GETTING  ABOUT  THE  CITY, 


31 


The  Brooklyn  and  other  Bridges. 

The  Original  Brooklyn  Bridge. — This  magnificent  bridge  spans 
the  East  River  and  connects  New  York  and  Brooklyn.  Its  terminus 
in  New  York  is  opposite  City  Hall  Park,  and  directly  reached  by  the 
City  Hall  branch  of  the  Third  Av.  El.  Ry.,  and  by  all  the  surface 
cars  that  go  to  the  Post  Office.  Park  Place  is  the  nearest  station  on 
the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.  The  terminus  in  Brooklyn  is  in  the  new  plaza 
at  Fulton  and  Sand  Sts. ,  where  all  the  elevated  railways  of  that  city 
have  their  termini  in  a  covered  union  station,  and  can  be  reached 
without  descending  to  the  ground,  and  where  the  cars  of  nearly  every 
surface  line  are  within  a  few  steps.  The  bridge  carries  two  drives,  a 
broad,  free  foot  walk,  a  double-track  cable  railroad,  and  an  electric 
loop-line.  The  walk  across  is  delightful,  and  seats  are  scattered  along 
the  broad  **  promenade,"  and  in  the  balconies  about  the  towers,  where 
one  may  rest  and  enjoy  the  view. 

Bridge  Cars.  — The  bridge  cable  railroad  carried  the  larger  number 
of  persons  who  crossed  the  bridge  until  lately.  The  cars  run  in  trains 
of  three  at  intervals  of  a  minute  or  less  during  the  busiest  hours,  and 
cross  in  six  minutes.  The  fare  is  3  cents,  two  tickets  for  5  cents. 
Since  the  summer  of  1898,  the  trains  of  the  Brooklyn  elevated  rail- 
ways have  run  to  the  Manhattan  end  of  the  bridge,  where  the  plat- 
forms were  enlarged  and  rearranged  to  accommodate  the  traffic. 
Among  these  elevated  trains  some  are  run  through  at  short  intervals 
in  summer  to  Rockaway  Beach  over  the  Fulton  St.  line,  and  others  to 
Coney  Island  over  the  Fifth  Av.  line.  The  car  platforms  at  both 
ends  are  directly  accessible  from  the  stations  of  the  elevated  railways, 
and  policemen  are  numerous  and  attentive. 

Trolley  Cars  began  early  in  1898  to  run  from  Brooklyn  to  the 
Manhattan  end  of  the  bridge,  where  they  pass  around  loops  and 
return  to  Brooklyn,  where  each  is  shunted  to  its  own  line.  No  extra 
fare  is  required  on  the  bridge;  the  tracks  are  laid,  one  on  each  road- 
way; and  all  the  Brooklyn  lines  make  equal  use  of  the  privilege. 

New  East  River  Bridge.  —  Another  suspension  bridge  is  just 
finished,  crossing  the  East  River  from  the  foot  of  Broome  St.,  Man- 
hattan, to  Broadway,  Brooklyn,  the  terminals  extending  half  a  mile 
inland  on  each  side  of  the  river.  The  two  supporting  towers  are 
1,600  feet  apart.  They  are,  above  the  water  line,  made  of  open-work 
steel,  and,  from  a  short  distance,  look  fragile,  but  in  each  of  them 
is  6,000,000  pounds  of  steel,  and  their  foundations  and  the  anchorages 
of  the  cables  are  of  the  utmost  solidity  and  safety. 


32 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


POST  OFFICE  AND  POSTAL  FACILITIES. 

The  General  Post  Office  is  at  the  junction  of  Broadway  and  Park 
Row,  next  the  City  Hall,  and  is  reached  from  up  town  by  all  the 
north  and  south  surface  railways,  and  by  the  Third  Av.  El.  Ry.  to 
City  Hall  statior,  or  by  the  Sixth  Av.  line  to  Park  Place.  The  "gen- 
eral delivery"  (poste  restante)  windows  are  near  the  front  door;  the 
stamp  selling  windows  on  the  Broadway  side.  Letters  can  be  asked 
for  and  stamps  bought  all  night  as  well  as  during  the  day,  except  on 
Sunday.  The  money-order,  registered-letter,  and  other  special 
offices  are  upstairs,  and  are  open  from  9  to  5.  The  pneumatic  dis- 
patch is  in  the  basement.  The  top  stories  contain  Federal  Courts,  etc. 

The  site  of  this  huge  building  (which  is  a  conspicuous  example  of 
the  unlovely  structures  erected  for  the  government  when  Mr.  Mullet 
was  supervising  architect)  was  formerly  the  southern  point  of  City 
Hall  Park.  The  structure  is  five  stories  high  above  the  sidewalk — 
one  story  being  in  the  Mansard  roof  —  besides  a  basement. 

Branch  Post  Offices. —  General  details  in  regard  to  post-office  man- 
agement and  the  handling  of  mails  have  no  place  here,  but  a  few 
facts  may  be  useful  to  the  stranger  as  to  the  branch  post  offices, 
called  Stations.  These  branches  are  scattered  all  over  the  city,  and 
form  the  local  centers  for  collection  and  distribution  of  mail  by  the 
carriers.  They  are  open  until  8  p.  m.  on  week  days,  and  from  8  to 
TO  a.  m.  on  Sundays.  Stamps,  money  orders,  postal  notes  and 
registered  letters  maybe  bought  there,  but  no  letters  are  given  to 
callers  at  these  stations,  any  letter  addressed  to  a  station  being 
delivered  to  the  address  by  the  carrier,  or,  if  this  is  not  known, 
returned  to  the  General  Post  Office  to  be  advertised,  etc.  For  any 
questions  as  to  the  delivery  of  your  mail  by  the  carrier,  go  to  the 
station  in  whose  district  you  live.    Following  is  a  list  of  branch  offices: 

Madison  Sq.,  Madison  Av.  and  23d  St.,  entrance  on  23d  St. 
136  and  138  Greene  St. 

B,  380  Grand  St.,  between  Norfolk  and  Suffolk  Sts. 

C,  Cor.  Hudson  and  Bethune  Sts. 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEH^  YORK  CITY. 


D,  Third  Av. ,  between  8th  and  9th  Sts. 

E,  No.  110  W.  32d  St. 

F,  401  Third  Av.,  bet.  28th  and  29th  Sts. 

G,  Broadway  and  51st  St. 

H,  Lexington  Av.  and  44th  St.    (Second-class  matter  received.) 
/,  Columbus  Av. ,  cor.  105th  St. 

/,  2309  Eighth  Av.,  cor.  124th  St. 

203  E.  86th  St.,  near  Third  Av. 

141  E.  125th  St. 
M,  Amsterdam  Av.,  near  157th  St. 
A^,  Cor.  Broadway  and  69th  St. 
(9,  122  Fifth  Av.    (Second-class  matter  received.) 
P,  Stone  St.,  cor.  Produce  Exchange. 
R,  Morrisania,  Third  Av.  and  150th  St. 
S,  Broadway,  cor.  Howard  St 
T,  3319  Third  Av. 
U,  Third  Av.,  cor.  103d  St. 

V,  Wool  Exchange,  West  Broadway  and  Canal  St. 

W,  498  Columbus  Av.,  cor.  84th  St. 

F,  1 160  Third  Av.,  near  68th  St. 

Foreign  Branch,  West  St.,  near  Morton  St. 

City  Island. 

High  Bridge,  Sedgewick  Av.,  near  Depot  Place. 
Kingsbridge. 
University  Heights. 
Bedford  Park. 

In  addition  to  this,  some  fifty  sub-stations  have  lately  been  estab- 
lished— principally  in  drug  stores.  These  are  primarily  for  the  sale 
of  stamps,  the  registering  of  letters,  and  the  sale  of  money  orders, 
but  there  are  also  collection  boxes  at  each  sub-station. 

By  means  of  all  these  aids  to  rapid  circulation  of  mail,  letters  will 
"be  delivered  in  any  part  of  the  city  within  two  or  three  hours  of  mail- 
ing at  the  utmost,  and  if  addressed  to  a  point  within  the  same  dis- 
trict where  mailed,  in  a  much  shorter  time. 

The  letter  rate  to  any  part  of  the  city  is  2  cents  an  ounce. 

Delivery  by  carrier,  to  specified  house  and  number,  or  where  the 
address  is  known. 

Telegraphs,  Telephones,  and  Messenger  Service. 

Telegraphs.— All  the  land  telegraph  and  ocean  cable  companies 
have  their  offices  and  many  branch  stations  in  New  York.  The 
Western  Union  Headquarters  is  in  the  huge  building  at  the  corner 
of  Broadway  and  Dey  St.,  just  below  the  Post  Office.  At  Fifth  Av. 
and  22d  St.  and  at  16  Broad  St.  are  the  principal  branch  offices, 
connected  with  the  central  office  at  Dey  St.  by  pneumatic  tubes. 


GETTING  ABOUT  THE  CITY. 


35 


THE  BOWERY  — From  Grand  Street  Elevated  Station. 


The  Postal  Telegraph  aitd  Commc7'clal  Cable  Companies  have 
their  central  office  and  main  operating  room  in  their  new  building  at 
Broadway  and  Murray  St.,  and  many  branches  throughout  the  city. 
Telephones  are  everywhere.  The  system  covering  Greater  New 
York  and  vicinity,  which  is  operated  by  the  New  York  Telephone 
Company,  has  over  200,000  stations.  Pay  stations  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  travelers  and  the  public  in  general  may  be  found  in  all 
railroad  and  ferry  stations,  hotels,  stores,  and  other  convenient  places. 

The  American  District  and  the  Mutual  District  Telegraph 
Companies  have  offices  scattered  all  over  town,  generally  in  conjunc- 
tion with  the  Western  Union  offices,  where  uniformed  messengers  are 
on  hand  to  deliver  telegrams,  answer  calls,  and  perform  every  variety 
of  service  for  which  a  boy  is  capable.  The  charge  is  regulated  by  a 
tariff,  printed  in  a  book  carried  by  the  boys,  and  it  is  well  to  learn 
in  advance  what  will  be  the  charge  for  the  service  you  wish  done. 


III. 


THEATERS  AND  THE  OPERA. 

New  York  now  hav^  about  60  theaters,  properly  so  called  (including  the 
opera),  besides  several  places  where  similar  entertainments  are  often 
given.  Stock  companies  are  maintained,  however,  only  at  a  very  few, 
the  metropolitan  stage  being  almost  entirely  given  up  to  companies 
led  by  some  star,  which  give  a  certain  play  or  series  of  plays  for  a 
certain  time  and  then  yield  the  boards  to  a  different  lessee  company 
and  play,  perhaps  of  an  entirely  different  character.  This  has  com- 
pletely upset  the  traditions  of  the  older  theaters — where  the  public 
knew  just  what  kind  and  quality  of  play  might  be  expected,  whatever 
its  name — and  has  stamped  little  individuality  upon  any  of  the  new 
ones.  The  usual  prices  are  $2.00  for  the  orchestra  or  best  balcony 
seats,  $1.00  admission  without  a  secured  seat,  and  50  cents  to  $1.00 
for  the  upper  galleries.  These  prices  are  increased  for  grand  operp 
and  special  Derformances. 


HIPPODROME— 44th  Street  and  6th  Avenue. 


THEATERS  AND  OTHER  AMUSEMENTS 


37 


mr  OF  THEATERS. 


Academy  of  Music— i^t\i  St.  and  Irving  PI. 

*  Alhambr  a— jth.  A  v.  and  126th  St. 
American — 260  W.  42d  St. 
Astor—4s^h  St.  and  Broadway. 
Be/ascc—2og  West  42d  St. 
Bijou— Broadway ,  near  30th  St. 
Broadway— \^\$  Broadway. 
Casino— Broadway  and  39th  St. 
^Circle — 1825  Broadway. 
"^Colonial   Broadway  and  62d  St. 
C'r/'/^^r^**?;/— Broadway  and  44th  St. 
Daly's — Broadway  and  30th  St. 
Eden  Musee—ss  West  23d  St. 
^;«//r^— Broadway  and  40th  St. 
Fourteenth  Street  — 107  West  i4tli  St. 
6r'^2r^^'«— Madison  Av.  and  27th  St. 
Garrick—6^-'j  West  35th  St. 

Grand  Opera  House— Av.  and  23d  St. 
Hackett—^26.  St.,  near  Eighth  A  v. 
Herald  Square  — Broadway  and  ^5th  St. 
Bippodrofne— Corner  44th  St.  and  Sixth  Av. 
Hudson — 139  West  44th  St. 
Jrviftj^  Place— Irving  PI.  and  15th  St. 
Keith      Proctor's  Fifth  Avenue— Broadway  and  28th  St. 

*  Keith  (Sr*  Proctor'' s  Harlem  Opera  House— 2.0^  West  125th  St. 
Keith      Proctor's  J2sth  Street— \\2  East  125th  St. 

*  Keith  ^  Proctor' s  Palace— \s\  East  58th  St. 
Keith      Proctor  s  23d  Street— 1^2,  West  23d  St. 

*Keith  &°  Proctor's  Union  Square — 14th  St.  and  Broadway. 

Knickerbocker — Broadway  and  38th  St. 

Liberty— iT,^  West  42d  St. 

Lincoln  Square— Broadway  and  66th  St. 

Lyceu7n—i^Q  West  45th  St. 

Lyric— 2\->,  West  42d  St. 

Majestic— Kighth  A  v.  and  58th  St. 

Manhattan— Broadway. 

Manhattan  Opera  House— ^\g\\.\\i  A  v.  and  34th  St. 
Metropolis— 2(i^\'^\i\rd  Av. 

Metropolitan  Opera  House — Broadway  and  39th  St. 

New  Amsterdam  — 2\\  West  42d  St. 

New  Star — Lexington  Av.  and  107th  St. 

New  y(7r>^— Broadway  and  45th  St. 

^Pastor's— East  14th  St. 

Princess— Broadway  and  29th  St. 

Savov—^T.2  West  34th  St. 

*F>V/^7rza— Seventh  Av.  and  42d  St. 

W all  a  c  k' s— Broadway  and  30th  St. 

Weber  Music  Hall —Broadway  and  29th  St 

West  Eitd—-i6^  West  125th  St. 

Windsor— 4s  Bowery. 

Vorkville—i2gi  Lexington  Av 


♦Vaudeville. 


88  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


METROPOLITAN  OPERA  HOUSE. 


MUSIC,  LECTURES,  AND  EXHIBITIONS. 

The  Madison  Square  Garden.— This  structure,  opened  in  June, 
1890,  is  of  a  class  by  itself,  since  it  affords  accommodations  for  a 
variety  of  entertainments.  It  occupies  the  block  diagonally  opposite 
the  northeast  corner  of  Madison  Square,  bounded  by  Madison  Av. , 
27th  St.,  Fourth  Av.,  and  26th  St.,  the  site  of  the  old  garden  where 
circuses,  athletic  matches,  and  exhibitions  were  wont  to  be  seen. 
The  new  building  is  a  handsome  structure  of  buff  brick  and  light 
terra  cotta ;  is  constructed  wholly  of  masonry,  iron,  and  glass ;  is 
lighted  by  electricity,  and  is  absolutely  fire-proof.  At  the  southwest 
corner  a  tower  rises  to  the  height  of  300  feet,  ascended  by  elevators 
and  staircases  and  provided  with  summit  balconies  commanding  a 
wide  landscape.  The  building  contains  an  amphitheater,  a  theater, 
a  restaurant,  a  concert  hall,  a  roof  garden,  and  several  smaller  rooms, 
with  all  possible  conveniences  for  public  and  private  entertainments. 
On  special  occasions  all  portions  of  this  structure,  except  the  theatex 


m EATERS  AND  OTHER  AMUSEMENTS,  89 


can  be  so  arranged  as  to  communicate.  The  Amphitheater  is  310 
by  194  feet  and  80  feet  high,  with  an  arena  containing  a  track  one- 
tenth  of  a  mile  in  length.  It  has  a  permanent  seating  capacity  for 
6,000  people,  inclusive  of  150  private  boxes,  and  for  conventions  and 
similar  purposes,  can  be  arranged  to  seat  12,000.  Under  the  per- 
manent seats,  and  extending  around  the  entire  Amphitheater,  is  a 
continuous  hall  with  upward  of  30,000  square,  feet  available  for 
exhibitions  and  fairs.  Here  the  great  fancy  balls  are  held,  the  annual 
horse,  dog,  and  flower  shows,  the  circus  in  spring,  autumn  conven- 
tions, and  midsummer  concerts.  The  Restaurant,  on  the  ground 
floor  in  the  Madison  Av.  and  26th  St.  corner  of  the  building,  is  80  x 
90  feet  in  dimensions,  and  is  handsomely  decorated.  Its  kitchen  is 
on  the  roof.  Over  the  restaurant  is  the  Concert  Hall,  seating  1,500 
people;  it  is  also  intended  to  be  used  as  a  ball  or  banqueting  room, 
and  for  this  purpose  connecting  supper-rooms  and  every  convenience 
have  been  provided.  The  Roof  Garden  and  Theater  have  been 
elsewhere  described. 

Concert  Halls. —  First  among  halls  devoted  primarily  to  musical 
productions  is  the  Carnegie  Music  Hall,  sl  beautiful  building  on 
Seventh  Av.  and  57th  St.  It  was  founded  by  Andrew  Carnegie,  has 
,  cost  over  $2,000,000,  was  opened  in  May,  1890,  and  has  an  auditorium 
'  which  wnll  seat  3,000  persons,  besides  three  smaller  halls  for  recitals 
and  chamber  music,  and  a  series  of  elegant  lodge-rooms.  While  the 
main  purpose  of  the  institution  is  the  encouragement  of  superior 
music,  and  the  popular  orchestral  concerts  of  Damrosch  and  Seidl 
made  it  widely  known,  its  halls  are  also  to  be  rented  for  conventions, 
lectures,  etc.  Other  similar  institutions  of  lesser  size  are  Mendels- 
sohn Hall,  119  W.  40th  St.;  Steinway  Hall,  E.  14th  St.;  Berkeley 
Lyceum,  19  W.  44th  St.,  an:l  Lyric  Hall,  Sixth  Av.,  near  42d  St.,  all 
of  which  are  constantly  used  for  lectures  and  meetings,  as  well  as 
concerts.  The  ball  rooms  of  the  Waldorf-Astoria  Hotel,  St.  Regis, 
Delmonico's,  and  Sherry's  are  the  scenes  not  only  of  balls  and  ban- 
quets, but  01  fashionable  parlor  lectures,  musicales,  etc. 

Musical  Societies. — The  oldest  musical  society  in  the  city  is  said 
to  be  the  German  Liederkranz,  founded  in  1847.  The  society  has 
about  1,600  members,  and  a  female  chorus  of  about  80  voices.  Its 
club-house  is  in  E.  58th  St.,  between  Park  and  Lexington  Avs.  The 
Liederkranz  gives  at  its  own  hall  three  concerts,  making  it  a  point  to 
perform  at  each  a  novelty  with  their  full  chorus. 


THEATERS  AND  OTHER  AMUSEMENTS, 


41 


The  Arion  is  another  well-known  singing  and  social  club,  much 
like  the  Liederkranz,  though  less  serious  in  its  musical  manifesta- 
tions. There  are  some  800  members,  150  of  whom  are  in  the  choir, 
and  the  club-house  is  a  handsome  edifice  at  Park  Av.  and  59th  St. 

Less  generally  known  are  the  Beethoven  Mannerchor,  210  5th  St.; 
the  Mannerchor,  203  E.  56th  St.  the  Mendelssohn  Glee  Club,  113  W. 
40th  St.;  vhe  New  York  Sangerbunde,  138  E.  57th  St.;  the  Oratorio 
Society,  Seventh  Av.  near  W.  56th  St. ;  and  the  Philharmonic  Society, 
Carnegie  Hall.    The  concerts  of  the  last-named  reach  the  climax. 

Lectures  in  New  York  are  frequent,  but  occasional,  and  the  adver- 
tisements in  the  daily  papers,  especially  in  The  Tribune  and  The 
Evening  Post,  should  be  scrutinized  daily  by  anyone  interested. 
Chickering  Hall  and  the  hall  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  are  the  usual 
places  for  their  delivery,  but  many  are  given  in  churches,  and  in 
theaters  on  Sunday,  especially  in  the  Grand  Opera  House.  A  long 
course  of  weekly  lectures  is  sustained  by  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  each  winter; 
the  Cooper  Union  supports  a  free  course  of  lectures  on  popular  sci- 
ence and  kindred  subjects,  and  the  City  provides  hundreds  of  free 
illustrated  lectures  in  schoolhouses  each  winter.  At  Columbia  College 
the  lectures  to  the  higher  classes  are  often  open  to  the  public,  too. 
The  lecture  hall  of  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History  is 
occupied  nearly  every  night  in  winter  by  illustrated  lectures  on  travel 
and  scientific  topics,  always  free,  and  exceedingly  popular.  They 
are  given  by  the  Museum  and  the  Scientific  Alliance.  But  perhaps 
the  most  interesting  thing  in  this  line,  to  a  visitor,  is  an  evening  in 
the  great  basement-hall  of  the  Cooper  Union.  Here  are  held  not 
only  the  largest  political  mass-meetings  that  assemble  anywhere  in 
the  city  under  cover  (it  was  here  that  Lincoln  made  his  renowned 
speech  in  i860);  but  it  is  the  usual  forum  for  addresses  by  the  orators 
of  all  sorts  of  reforms  and  social  and  religious  isms.  It  is  an  enor- 
mous room,  and  some  of  the  crowds  which  assemble  there  exhibit,  in 
a  way  that  can  be  seen  nowhere  else  at  a  glance,  the  cosmopolitan 
polyglot  character  of  the  metropolis.  A  Sunday -night  meeting  at  the 
Cooper  Union  is  one  of  the  "  sights  "  of  New  York. 

The  Lenox  Lyceum  at  Madison  Av.  and  59th  St.,  and  the  Grand 
Central  Palace,  Lexington  Av.  and  43d  St.,  are  large  halls  devoted 
to  fairs,  bicycle  tournaments,  and  similar  entertainments. 

Museums  and  Galleries  — The  two  great  museums  of  the  city  are 
described  as  a  part  of  Central  Park  (see  Parks,  Art  and  Libraries). 


IV. 


THE  CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND 
PUBLIC  MUSEUMS. 


Ail  the  parks  of  the  enlarged  city  are  under  control  of  a  commission 
of  three  members,  appointed  by  the  mayor,  but  each  commissioner 
has  large  independent  powers  in  reference  to  his  own  district —  one 
superintending  parks  and  public  grounds  in  the  boroughs  of  Man- 
hattan and  Richmond  ;  a  second,  those  of  Brooklyn  and  Queens 
boroughs,  and  the  third,  those  of  Bronx  borough.  The  parks  have 
always  been  an  object  of  great  solicitude  on  the  part  of  the  people, 
who  have  guarded  them  against  encroachments  with  jealous  care, 
and  have  willingly  spent  vast  sums  upon  their  improvement,  espe- 
cially upon  those  north  of  the  Harlem,  which  in  a  few  years  will 
become  a  most  beautiful  series  of  woodland  spaces  reserved  in  the 
midst  of  the  fast  advancing  city,  connected  by  delightful  drives  or 
"parkways,"  and  in  some  instances  reached  by  steamboats  on  East 
River.  Ultimately  these  parks  will  be  connected  with  Brooklyn's 
systems  by  a  bridge  and  boulevard.  The  demolition  of  whole  blocks 
of  buildings  in  the  crowded  lower  part  of  the  city,  to  make  small 
parks  for  the  benefit  of  the  tenement  house  population,  is  another 
evidence  of  the  great  value  New  York  places  upon  parks. 

Battery  Park^  Bowling  Green,  and  Jeannette  Square^  at  the 

43 


44 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


southern  extremity  of  the  island,  and  City  Hall  Park  and  the  open 
area  in  front  of  The  Tribune  building,  called  Printing-house 
Square,  are  described  elsewhere.  Abingdo7i  Square,  where  Eighth 
Av.  turns  out  of  Hudson  St.,  was  at  one  time  a  fashionable  locality, 
and  Jackso7i  Square,  where  Hudson  St.,  W.  13th  St.,  and  Green- 
wich Av.  intersect,  is  a  good  bourgeois  neighborhood,  largely  inhab- 
ited by  Scotchmen,  whose  Caledonian  club-house  overlooks  it. 
Washington,  Union,  Madison,  and  Siuyvesant  squares,  and  Bry- 
ant and  Gramercy  parks,  will  be  described  in  the  "Tour  of  the 
City."  Tompki?is  Square  is  a  space  on  the  East  Side,  some  ten 
acres  in  extent,  between  avenues  A  and  B,  and  7th  and  loth  Sts., 
which  has  lately  been  improved,  and  will  in  time  become  a  park  of 
great  beauty.  It  is  the  evening  resort  of  the  vast  population  of  wage- 
workers  who  live  in  its  neighborhood,  as  is  the  new  park  near  the 
Five  Points,  and  Corlear's  Hook  Park,  The  Hamilton  Fish  Park, 
and  the  W.  H.  Seward  Park  for  other  dense  populations  on  the 
East  side.  On  summer  nights,  when  the  public  bands  play,  these 
parks  are  worthy  a  visit.  The  City  Recreation  Piers  are  a  new  and 
much  appreciated  departure.  They  are  at  the  foot  of  E.  3d,  E.  24th, 
E.  ii2th,  Christopher  W.,  W.  50th,  and  W.  129th  Sts. 


Central  Park. 

Means  of  Access  to  Central  Park. —  The  Broadway  and  Seventh 
Av. ,  the  Sixth  Av. ,  the  Eighth  Av. ,  and  the  Belt  Line  street-cars  go 
directly  to  the  lower  end  of  the  park.  The  Eighth  Av.  line  runs 
along  the  whole  length  of  its  western  side,  and  the  Fourth  Av.  line 
(on  Madison  Av.)  is  only  one  short  block  east  of  it.  The  Fifth  Av. 
stages  go  to  its  main  entrance  and  along  its  eastern  side  as  far  as 
the  Met.  Mus.  of  Art,  at  8ist  St.  The  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.  reaches 
the  foot  of  the  park  at  58th  St.  by  many  direct  trains,  or  by  a  change 
from  Harlem  trains  at  50th  St. ;  it  also  runs  along  the  western  side 
of  the  park  on  Columbus  Av.,  with  a  station  opposite  the  Museum  of 
Nat.  History  and  the  77th  St.  gate  on  that  side.  The  Third  Av. 
El.  Ry.  is  four  blocks  east  of  the  park;  its  67th  St.  station  is  most  con- 
venient for  the  Menagerie  and  lower  part  of  the  park,  and  its  84th 
St.  station  for  the  Art  Museum  and  Obelisk ;  a  car  line  crosses  the 
park  at  86th  St.    The  Lexington  Avenue  line  is  three  blocks  east. 

Lower  Park.— Central  Park  is  divided  into  two  nearly  equal 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AJ^D  MUSEUMS. 


45 


halves,  a  northern  and  a  southern,  by  the  high  ground  around  the 
Belvidere  and  the  sunken  road  at  79th  St.,  beyond  which,  northward, 
are  the  reservoirs  and  the  upper  park,  to  which,  however,  a  stranger 
does  not  ordinarily  extend  his  walk.  The  principal  entrance  to  the 
park  is  at  59th  St.  and  Fifth  Av.,  where  the  Drive  begins  and  where 
the  park  phaetons  start.  This  is  called  the  Scholars'  Gate,  and  it  is 
appropriately  adorned  by  a  colossal  bust  of  Alex,  von  Humboldt,  at 
the  unveiling  of  which,  in  1874,  Prof.  Louis  Agassiz  made  a  memor- 
able address.  At  Eighth  Av.  and  59th  St.  is  another  spacious 
entrance,  in  front  of  which  there  is  a  circular  esplanade,  styled  the 
Columbus  Plaza.  In  the  center  of  this  circle  towers  the  lofty  rostral 
column  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Columbus  —  a  monument  presented 
to  the  city  by  its  Italian  residents  in  1892,  in  commemoration  of  the 
Columbian  anniversary.  Nearer  the  park  entrance  the  statue  of 
"  Commerce,"  presented  to  the  city  in  1805  by  Mr.  Stephen  B.  Guion, 
may  be  seen.  Gates  will  also  be  found  where  Seventh  and  Sixth 
Avs.  abut  upon  the  park  ;  the  Sixth  Av.  gate  has  a  statue  to  Thor- 
waldsen,  presented  by  Scandinavian  citizens.  The  Scholar's  Gate 
(Fifth  Av.  and  59th  St.)  is  the  best  starting  point  for  a  ramble,  and 
the  reader  is  advised  to  make  his  way  along  the  broad  thoroughfare 
leading  inward  from  that  entrance,  which  will  quickly  take  him  to 
the 

Menagerie. — The  living  animals  displayed  here  will  hold  his  atten- 
tion a  longer  or  shorter  time  according  as  his  interest  in  them  is  large 
or  small.  They  are  grouped  in  small  houses  around  the  old  Arsenal, 
a  picturesque  building  of  unknown  age  containing  a  police  station  in 
the  basement,  offices  for  the  administration  of  the  Commissioner  for 
Manhattan,  and  a  meteorological  observatory  of  much  consequence 
in  the  attic;  it  is  close  to  the  gate  at  64th  St.  and  Fifth  Av.  In  front 
of  it  are  houses  and  cages  containing  the  monkeys,  the  parrots,  and 
other  tropical  birds,  and  certain  cats  and  other  small  animals  that 
require  warmth;  a  cage  of  eagles;  a  large  wire  fronted  aviary,  and 
several  pens  containing  buffalos,  deer,  etc.  In  the  rear  of  the 
Arsenal  are  pens  for  the  deers,  bisons,  oriental  buffalos  and  other 
quadrupeds;  the  great  tank  for  the  sea-lions;  and  exposed  cages 
with  wolves,  etc.  In  winter  many  of  these  cages  and  paddocks  are 
unoccupied,  the  animals  that  inhabit  them  in  w^arm  weather  having 
been  put  under  shelter.  The  lion-house,  containing  the  lions,  tigers, 
leopard,  etc.,  the  two-horned  rhinoceros,  and  the  interesting  trio  of 
hippopotami  (which  are  provided  with  a  huge  tank),  is  among  these 
cages,  and  forms  the  central  attraction  to  most  visitors.     In  the  rear 


4G 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


of  that  is  the  deer-house  and  adjoining  paddocks,  where  elks, 
giraffes,  oriental  goats,  etc.,  are  lodged,  and  behind  that  the  house 
for  the  elephants,  and  the  pond  and  paddock  where  the  storks  and 
some  other  large  birds  live.  The  bear  pits  are  hollowed  into  the  side 
of  a  rocky  ledge  near  by,  and  form  an  unfailing  attraction  to  the 
children.  In  winter  many  animals  belonging  to  circuses  are  boarded 
here,  and  form  a  part  of  the  exhibit  which,  consequently,  is  much 
more  extensive  at  that  season  han  in  summer. 

The  Mall,  Esplanade,  etc. — In  moving  about  the  menagerie, 
glimpses  are  caught  of  the  winding,  rocky-shored  piece  of  water  at 
the  southern  end  of  the  park  called  The  Pond,  and  a  short  walk  to 
the  bridge  in  the  rear  of  the  Menagerie  should  be  taken,  in  order  to 
look  at  it.  This  done,  turn  your  face  northward,  pass  beneath  the 
arch  that  carries  a  drive  over  the  main  pathway  and  follow  its  wind- 
ings onward  until  it  brings  you  out  upon  the  Mall.  This  is  a  broad 
level  space  of  rather  high  ground,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  planted 
with  parallel  rows  of  stately  elms,  between  which  broad  and  straight 
paths  of  asphalt,  lined  with  seats,  run  straight  to  where  the  prospec- 
tive is  beautifully  closed  by  the  carved  balustrade  of  the  Terrace, 
over  which,  in  the  remote  distance,  rises  the  tower  and  flag  of  the 
Belvedere.  Southward,  a  charming  glimpse  is  caught,  through  the 
trees,  of  the  tall  apartment-houses  on  59th  St.  and  of  the  roofs  and 
steeples  along  Fifth  Av.  At  your  left  stretches  the  undulating 
lawns  of  The  Green,  dotted  here  and  there,  perhaps,  with  pasturing 
:heep,  watched  by  a  son  of  *'01d  Shep" — a  dog,  now  dead,  whose 
ame  has  gone  far  and  wide  (See  St.  Nicholas,  Vol.  XI,  Pt.  II,  p.  747.) 
Below  the  Green,  nearer  to  the  Eighth  Av.  entrance,  is  the  ball 
ground,  devoted  to  boys'  amusements;  but  it  is  invisible  from  here 
and  the  noise  of  its  shouting  players  does  not  despoil  the  silence. 
At  the  lower  end  of  the  Mall  is  a  statue  of  Shakspere,  by 
J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  erected  there  in  1872,  on  the  300th  aniversary  of  the 
poet's  birth;  and  just  above  it,  facing  each  other,  are  statues  of 
Burns  and  Scott,  both  in  sitting  posture,  and  appropriately  borne 
upon  pedestals  of  Aberdeen  granite.  Both  were  modeled  by  John 
Steele  of  Edinburgh,  and  presented  to  New  York  by  resident  Scotch- 
men. Ward's  "  Indian  Hunter  '  stands  somewhat  beh^'-^-^  the  Burns 
statue,  looking  eagerly  towards  The  Green;  and  a  few  rods  up  the 
Mall  is  the  bronze  statue  of  Fitz  Greene  Halleck,  modeled  by  Wilson 
MacDonald.  The  Mall  is  the  great  promenade  of  the  park,  and  on 
summer  afternoons  is  always  tilled  with  loiterers,  while  goat-car- 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS. 


47 


riages,  carrying  happy  youngsters,  race  up  and  down  one  of  the  side 
paths.  At  the  upper  end  is  the  Kiosk,  in  which,  on  Sunday  after- 
noons, a  band  plays  in  the  presence  of  great  throngs  of  listeners  of 
every  class  of  society,  and  significantly  overlooking  this  musical  spot 
is  the  bust  of  Beethoven,  unveiled  with  much  ceremony  in  July,  1884. 
Here,  at  the  right,  are  the  beautiful  Wistaria  Bower  and  (behind  it) 
the  Casino  (restaurant),  where  ice  cream  and  light  edibles  may  be  pro- 
cured at  moderate  prices. 


THE   TERRACE   BELOW  THE  MALL 


The  Ramble. —  Here  no  "  guide"  is  wanted,  the  very  genius  of 
the  place,  which  has  been  left  as  wild  as  possible,  and  whose  paths 
wind  in  and  out  most  confusingly  or  come  to  a  sudden  halt  against 
the  rocks  or  lake  shore,  is  to  wander  without  method  or  care  till  you 
are  rested  from  the  formality  and  crowd  of  the  town,  "  so  near  and 
yet  so  far."  A  noble  bust  of  Schiller;  rustic  cabins  set  upon  lofty 
points  of  rock ;  narrow  gorges  hung  with  blossoming  vines  ;  splash- 
ing waterfalls  ;  a  gloomy  cave  ;  thickets,  flowers,  birds,  woodland 
sights  and  sounds — these  are  the  features  of  The  Ramble.  The  pick- 
ing of  flowers  and  the  breaking  of  twigs  are  wisely  forbidden.  A 
sign  directs  the  rambler  to  the  Carrousel  — -  a  place  for  children's  games 


48 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


with  swings,  merry-go-rounds,  etc.  Another  sign  directs  him  to  the 
Dairy,  near  by,  where  milk,  bread  and  butter,  cheese,  and  the  like, 
may  be  bought  for  a  luncheon.  The  Belvedere  is  not  far  away,  along 
shady  paths  and  over  bare  rocks,  and  it  should  not  be  forgotten. 
The  view  from  its  tower  is  worth  far  more  than  the  small  exertion  of 
climbing  to  the  outlook.  The  reservoirs  seen  at  the  foot  of  the  tower 
and  northward  are  those  which  first  receive  the  Croton  water,  and 
whence  it  is  distributed.  From  the  Belvedere  a  path  down  an  avenue 
of  thorn -trees,  which  completely  overarch  it,  leads  eastward  to  the 
main  thoroughfare,  whence  it  is  only  a  short  distance  to  the  Art  Mu- 
seum and  Obelisk  at  82d  St.  and  Fifth  Av. ,  a  description  of  which 
will  be  found  a  few  pages  ahead 

Returning  from  the  Belvedere  to  The  Ramble,  keep  along  the  edge 
of  the  lake,  cross  another  bridge,  pausing  a  moment  to  look  at  the 
swans,  and  walk  straight  on  to  the  gate  at  77th  St.  A  large  unfinished 
stone  and  brick  building  faces  you  on  the  opposite  side  of  Eighth 
Av.,  surrounded  by  wide  and  regular  lawns.  The  green  space  is 
Manhattan  Square,  an  annexation  to  Central  Park,  and  the  uncom 
pleted  building  is  the  nucleus  of 

The  American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  large  as  it  already  is, 
is  only  a  beginning.  The  entire  building,  as  designed,  will  occupy 
the  whole  of  Manhattan  Sq.,  and  embrace  four  great  courts. 
The  architecture  will  be  imposing  and  the  central  structure  will  be 
surmounted  by  a  lofty  dome.  An  idea  of  the  appearance  may  be 
gained  from  the  completed  south  front  on  77th  St. —  a  beautiful  struct- 
ure of  light  brown  stone,  approached  by  a  grand  stairway.  Admit- 
tance is  free  except  on  Monday  and  Tuesday  (25  cents),  and  the 
museum  is  open  on  Sunday  afternoons  and  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday 
evenings.  Pamphlets  descriptive  of  several  collections  are  for  sale 
at  the  door  ;  but  the  system  of  labelling  is  so  complete  that  these  are 
hardly  required  by  the  casual  visitor. 

The  museum  occupies  a  building  of  five  stories  in  height  along  the 
whole  front  of  the  north  side  of  77th  St.,  with  a  tee  piece  running 
northward.  The  entrance  is  in  the  center,  and  visitors  should  choose 
the  ground  level  in  preference  to  the  so-called  main  door  at  the  top 
of  the  outside  steps.  By  this  means  the  whole  collection  is  reached, 
floor^by  floor,  without  repeating.  It  contains  articles  and  models 
illustrating  the  life  of  the  Eskimos  of  North  America,  the  Shoshone 
Indians,  the  Gros  Ventres;  basketry,  and  the  archaeology  of  New 
York ;  a  fine  collection  of  Totem  poles  of  the  Ilaida  Indians;  masks 


50 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS.  51 

and  dishes  from  British  Columbia  ;  carvings  from  Vancouver  Island, 
and  basketry  and  utensils  of  the  Chilcoten  and  Yakima  Indians;  the 
Jesup  collection  of  woods ;  the  Hyde  collection  from  the  ancient 
pueblos,  cliff-houses,  and  burial-caves  of  the  Southwest ;  groups  of 
animals,  masterpieces  of  the  taxidermist's  art,  conspicuous  amongst 
which  are  the  cases  of  moose,  bison,  and  musk-ox,  undoubtedly 
the  finest  in  the  world.  This  is  particularly  true  of  the  Bird-rock 
group  and  the  Water  Ouzel  group.  Here,  also,  are  minerals,  includ- 
ing the  exhibit  of  the  Tiffany's,  at  the  Paris  Exhibition  in  1889,  pur- 
chased and  presented  by  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  ;  collection  of  meteorites 
and  geological  specimens,  includmg  the  collection  of  the  late  Prof.  J. 
Hall,  priceless  to  palaeontologists;  specimens  of  vertebrate  palaeon- 
tology ;  cretaceous  fish  ;  ichthyosaurus  with  young,  showing  it  to 
have  been  viviparous,  and  hundreds  of  other  priceless  examples  of  by- 
gone ages.  The  collection  of  reproductions  and  casts  of  the  ancients' 
monoliths  and  bas-reliefs  of  Central  America,  presented  by  the  Duke 
of  Loubat,  is  shown  here,  as  well  as  rare  and  curious  specimens 
illustrating  the  pre-Columbian  life  of  that  portion  of  the  continent. 
One  floor  is  given  up  to  anthropology,  conchology,  palaeontology,  ento- 
mology, and  mammalogy,  and  on  this  floor  is  the  library  containing 
55,000  volumes  on  natural  history  subjects,  accessible  to  members 
and  students,  and  the  laboratory  for  photography.  In  addition  to 
its  use  as  a  museum  it  is  a  center  of  scientific  life.  Supplementing 
the  lectures  organized  officially,  the  meetings  and  lectures  of  the  New 
York  Entomological  Society  and  the  Linnaean  Society  of  New  York, 
are  held  within  it.  The  lecture  hall  has  a  seating  accommodation  of 
1,500  and  is  a  separate  building  at  the  extreme  north  of  the  museum. 
The  lectures  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays  are  free. 

The  Drive. —  A  good  plan  will  be  to  return  now  to  Central  Park 
and  wait  until  one  of  the  public  carriages  comes  along,  northward 
bound.  These  carriages  or  phaetons  "  are  roomy  and  easy-going 
affairs,  which  make  the  complete  circuit  of  the  park  at  intervals  of 
about  half  an  hour.  The  fare  is  25  cents  for  each  passenger  for  the 
whole  ride.  This  pleasant  and  profitable  trip  (which  by  the  way  is 
not  beneath  the  dignity  of  anyone),  begins  at  the  Fifth  Av.  and  59th 
St.  entrance.  The  course  is  to  and  past  the  end  of  the  Mall,  show- 
ing its  green  parterres,  the  noble  breadth  of  The  Green  and  all  the 
statues  there;  then  along  the  western  side  of  the  Mall  and  to  a  knoll 
at  the  iGT/er  end  of  the  Lake,  passing  the  fine  bronzes  "  Tigress  and 
Young"  by  Aug.  Caine,  and  "The  Falconer,"  by  George  Simonds; 
then  around  the  western  extremity  of  the  Lake,  past  the  -  heroically 
taU  bronze  statue  of  Daniel  Webster,  which  was  modeled  by  Thomas 
Ball,  and  stands  opposite  72d  St.  The  Lake  remains  prettily  in  view 
for  some  time  on  the  right,  with  the  woods  of  The  Ramble,  and  the 
mediaeval  tower  of  the  Belvedere  as  its  background.    On  the  left, 


2  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 

>' 

outside  the  park,  the  Dakota,  Majestic,  and  vSan  Remo  hotels,  and 
the  Natural  History  Museum  are  here  conspicuous.  The  memorial 
statue  of  the  Seventh  Regiment  also  stands  near  72d  St. ,  and  not 
far  from  it  is  a  bust  of  Mazzini,  the  Italian  liberator,  modeled  by 
Turini>  and  the  gift  of  Italian  citizens.  Leaving  the  lake  shore,  the 
drive  loses  itself  among  almost  continuous  lines  of  trees.  The  grim 
walls  of  the  lower  reservoir  are  near  at  hand  on  the  right.  Near 
the  8ist  St.  gate  an  equestrian  statue  of  General  Simon  Bolivar 
will  attract  notice.  It  was  a  gift  from  the  government  and  people  of 
the  Venezuelan  Republic.  Through  thickening  and  beautiful  woods, 
opening  here  to  a  glimpse  of  sunny  hill-slopes  or  rocky  exposures, 
and  there  to  the  shining  surface  of  the  lake-like  reservoir,  the  passen- 
ger rolls  smoothly  along  the  perfectly  kept  road.  If  it  is  in  the 
morning  not  many  carriages  will  be  seen,  but  the  bridle-path  which 
follows  the  road  pretty  closely  may  be  well  filled;  but  if  the  hour  is 
toward  sunset  the  drive  will  be  crowded  with  handsome  equipages, 
and  one  may  feel  himself  quite  *'  in  the  swim.'*  The  upper  end  of 
the  park  is  much  wilder  and  more  solitary  than  the  lower  end;  and 
here,  on  a  bit  of  a  hilltop  called  Mt.  St.  Vincent,  at  the  extreme  end 
of  the  drive,  is  a  large  restaurant  and  lounging  place,  where  excellent 
fare  is  given  at  moderate  rates. 

The  southward  ride  along  the  East  Drive  differs  from  the  upper 
part  of  the  West  Drive  only  in  the  fact  that  you  overlook  a  wide  area 
of  half -built  town  toward  the  east.  The  Obelisk  and  Metropolitan 
Museum  of  Art  are  passed  at  8 2d  St. ,  with  passing  glances  of  admira- 
tion for  Conradt's  statue  of  Alexander  Hamilton,  and  Kemeys's 
"  Still  Hunt,"  which  stands  a  little  above  them.  Then  the  beautiful 
woods  and  rocky  knolls  and  lake  glimpses  along  the  eastern  side  of 
the  lower  park  begin;  the  bronze  statue  of  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  the 
inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph,  attracts  attention  near  the  72d  St. 
entrance;  Ward's  historical  statue  of  "  The  Pilgrim  "  (a  gift  from  the 
New^  England  Society)  is  justly  admired  as  the  Lake  is  approached; 
the  Terrace  and  Mall  fall  under  our  eyes,  and  the  ride  ends  at  the 
familiar  approach  to  the  Scholars'  Gate  —  the  starting  point. 

The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art. 

The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  is  on  the  eastern  side  of  Central 
Park,  opposite  the  entrance  at  Sist  St.  It  is  half  a  mile  from  an 
elevated  railway,  but  is  reached  directly  by  the  Fifth  Av.  stages. 
The  Fourth  (or  Madison)  Av.  street-cars  pass  within  one  block,  and 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS, 


53 


the  park  carriages  go  to  the  door.  Admittance  is  free  except  on  Mon- 
day and  Friday,  when  25  cents  is  charged;  open  Sunday,  i  to  5  p.  m. 

The  principal  entrance  is  in  the  east  front.  Turnstiles  within  the 
door  admit  and  register  visitors,  and  umbrellas  and  canes  must  be 
checked  and  left  at  the  desk.  A  series  of  hand-books,  costing  10  to  20 
cents  each,  may  be  bought,  covering  a  number  of  the  separate 
exhibits;  the  catalogue  of  paintings  is  especially  full  and  valuable. 

Unlike  the  great  European  art  museums,  the  Metropolitan  is  a 
private  institution,  receiving  but  a  small  sustenance  from  New  York 


The  Original  Home,  the  First  Section  ^}^^^    The  LoUVre, 

Built,  of  the  Metropolitan   Museum  of  the  British  Museum, 

Art,  in  Central  Park.  the  art  galleries  of 

Dresden,  Naples, Vi- 
'  enna,  and  Madrid, 
are  national  institu- 
tions, and  some  of  them  centuries  old.  But  this  is  a  corporation  of 
individuals,  who  devote  some  of  the  benefits  of  their  wealth  in  this 
way  to  the  people;  and  although  the  older  part  of  the  museum  was 
erected  little  more  than  ten  years  ago,  it  stands  unique  in  the  world  in 
its  Cyprian  antiquities;  is  second  only  to  the  British  Museum  in  its 
Babylonian  cylinders;  leads  all  American  collections  in  paintings  and 
statues,  and  has  acquired  an  incomparable  series  of  mummy  cases. 

The  original  plan  of  the  building  provided  for  extensions,  which 
have  been  made  from  time  to  time  on  the  rear  or  northern  side  in 
order  to  accommodate  the  rapid  accumulation  of  new  objects  by  the 
munificence  of  art-lovers.  Other  and  more  extended  enlargements  are 
in  progress  on  the  eastern  side.  The  corporation  in  charge  of  the 
museum  has  for  several  year?  maintained  an  estimable  art  school  in 
New  York  City. 


54  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Among  the  treasures  of  this  museum  are  examples  of  the  most 
noted  of  the  masters  of  the  Italian,  Dutch,  Flemish,  and  Spanish 
schools  —  Michael  Angelo,  Leonardi  de  Vin^i,  Correggio,  Murillo, 
Claude  Lorraine,  Titian,  Velasques,  Teniers,  Holbein,  Albert  Durer, 
Rembrandt,  Rubens,  and  many  others,  are  all  represented.  The  mod- 
ern French  and  English  schools  have  specimens  ranging  from  Gains- 
borough, Turner,  and  Reynolds  to  Rosa  Bonheur,  Leighton,  Alma 
Tadema,  and  Constant.  The  American  school  includes  Gilbert 
Stuart,  Kennett,  Cropsey,  Gay,  and  Innes.  The  metallic  arts,  porce- 
lains, laces,  and  musical  instruments  are  amongst  the  most  noted, 
but  the  most  artistic  and  remarkable  gathering  is  probably  that  of 
the  goldsmith's  art,  mainly  due  to  the  munificence  of  J.  Pierpont 
Morgan,  containing  magnificent  examples,  going  back  to  300  B.  C, 
in  most  perfect  condition,  amongst  which  are  a  corona  Triuinphalis, 
such  as  were  awarded  to  athletes;  a  corona  Nuptualis^  or  bridal 
wreath,  wrought  in  silver  and  gold,  in  leaves  of  the  oak,  myrtle,  and 
hawthorn,  both  in  leaf  and  flower-bud;  and  a  gold  crown  of  the 
Priestess  of  Demiter.  Sculpture  and  architectural  embellishment 
are  represented  mainly  by  casts,  but  they  are  good  ones,  and 
few  museums  can  possibly  have  more  than  a  few  originals.  Arms 
and  armor,  and  specimens  of  the  art  of  the  worker  in  iron  are  a 
worthy  and,  in  some  respects,  a  remarkable  collection,  as  also  is  the 
exhibit  of  early  glass — Persian  and  Arabian,  Greek,  Roman,  and 
early  Phoenician.  Carved  wood,  of  European,  Japanese,  and  Burmese 
workmanship  with  elaborate  inlaying,  is  represented  by  some  of  the 
best  extant  examples.  In  fact,  for  variety,  richness,  and  artistic  ex- 
cellence, the  Metropolitan  Museum  bids  fair,  especially  in  light  of  the 
Rogers  five  millions  to  which  it  has  recently  fallen  heir,  to  rank 
amongst  the  best  art  galleries  of  the  world. 

The  Obelisk,  ''Cleopatra's  Needle." 

The  obelisks  that  stand  as  mementoes  of  ancient  religions  and  king- 
doms in  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  have  been  objects  of  intense  interest 
to  the  world  ever  since  their  erection;  and  it  is  a  subject  of  gratifica- 
tion to  all  Americans  that  the  most  distinguished  of  those  remaining 
in  Egypt  —  the  far-famed  "Cleopatra's  Needle,"  should  have  been 
permitted  to  come  to  New  York.  This  obelisk  was  quarried  out  of 
the  hard,  rose-red  syenite  of  the  quarries  of  Assouan  (anciently 
Syene),  in  Nubia,  and  was  then  floated  700  miles  down  the  Nile  to 
the  ancient  city  of  On,  known  in  classical  writings  as  Heliopoli? 
—  City  of  the  Sun  —  whose  ruins  are  near  the  modern  village  oi 
Matunyeh,  five  miles  from  Cairo 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS,  57 


Other  Parks  and  Drives. 

Riverside  Park  and  Grant's  Tomb.— Riverside  Park,  or  Drive, 
lies  along  the  high  verge  of  the  Hudson,  between  71st  and  127th  Sts., 
and  is  reached  by  the  boulevard  street-cars,  by  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry. 
(half  a  mile  v^alk),  or,  at  Vcs  upper  end,  by  the  cable-cars  along  125th 
St.  to  Fort  Lee  Ferry.  It  was  the  subject  of  an  appreciative  illus- 
trated article  by  William  A.  Stiles,  in  The  Century,  October,  1885, 
and  of  an  illustrated  article  in  Miinsey,  October,  1898. 


THE  MALL,  CENTRAL  PARK 
Vvheft  the  band  plays  on  Saturdays  and  Sundays  tn  sunnnner. 


All  along  Riverside  Avenue,  which  bounds  the  park  inland  and 
extends  northward  to  the  Convent  in  Manhattan ville,  elegant  houses, 
surrounded  by  extensive  lawns  and  flower  gardens  are  rising;  and  it 
is  fair  to  suppose  that  this  admirable  region  will  become,  and  perma- 
nently remain,  one  of  the  finest  and  most  fashionable  residence  por. 
tions  of  the  metropolis.  **The  road  itself — a  cluster  of  ample  ways 
for  pleasure  riding,  driving,  and  walking,  separated  by  strips  of  turf 
from  which  stately  trees  are  to  rise,  and  extending  for  three  miles  — 
would  have  a  dignity  of  its  own  wherever  it  might  lead  through  the 


68 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


city.  But  its  position  overlooking  the  broad  Hudson  gives  it  an 
added  importance  and  an  individual  character  which  are  not  repeated 
nor  paralleled  in  any  of  the  famous  avenues  of  the  world." 

The  roadway  and  pedestrian  promenade  is  bounded  by  the  low 
coping  of  the  massive  retaining  wall,  which  withholds  the  drive  from 
sliding  down  the  steep  river-bank.  "  Below  this  retaining  wall  the 
woods  have  been  left  in  their  native  wildness,  with  only  asphalt 
walks  threading  aisles  made  by  the  trees  themselves.  It  is  in  this 
wilderness  that  Riverside  lovers  find  a  paradise.  .  .  .  As  long  as 
the  daylight  lasts  the  walks  and  grass-grown  hills  are  the  play- 
grounds of  myriads  of  children.  .  .  .  Bordering  the  eastern  line 
of  the  drive-way  is  a  row  of  fine  modern  houses  quite  unlike  any 
other  metropolitan  dwellings.  It  seems  almost  as  though  their 
owners  had  endeavored  to  combine  with  the  necessities  of  city  life 
some  of  the  joys  of  a  rural  residence."  These  elegant  homes  begin 
on  the  rise  south  of  the  79th  St.  hollow,  and  are  resumed  at  84th  St. 
After  passing  the  big  private  school  for  girls  between  85th  and  86th 
Sts.,  one  comes  to  a  handsome  row  of  light-colored  residences.  Gen. 

E.  L.  Viele  lives  on  the  corner  of  88th  St.;  near  90th  St.  a  very  strik- 
ing house,  with  a  red  tiled  roof  and  many  balconies,  is  that  of  John 
H.  Matthews,  "  who  made  a  solid  fortune  out  of  effervescent  soda  ; " 
and  the  90th  St.  corner  is  occupied  by  the  picturesque  ivy-grown 
home  of  Mrs.  Mary  S.  Parsons,  in  front  of  which  a  flight  of  stone 
steps  descends  to  the  river;  this  house  was  built  by  Cyrus  Clark, 

'Father  of  the  West  Side"  on  the  site  of  the  pillared  country-seat 
of  Brockholst  Livingston.  The  Delanceys,  Apthorpes,  and  McVic- 
kars  once  had  adjoining  estates,  and  a  volume  of  interesting  local 
reminiscences  might  be  compiled  here. 

Outside  the  drive  stands  a  bronze  copy  of  Houdin's  statue  of 
Washington,  given  to  the  city  by  the  school-children.  Beyond  this 
comes  the  hollow  and  roadway  at  96th  St. ,  plans  for  bridging  which 
are  in  progress;  and  the  high  ground  on  the  further  side  is 
crowned  by  the  old-fashioned  white  mansion  of  the  Furness  estate, 
marked  by  a  pillared  portico  and  spacious  wings.  The  large  red 
brick  and  brown  stone  house  and  grounds  of  Peter  Doelger  cover 
half  the  block  at  100th  St.  Another  big  house  set  back  from  and 
above  the  street,  and  surrounded  by  a  garden  at  io2d  St.,  noticeable 
for  the  fact  that  it  is  built  of  iron,  is  the  home  of  Mrs.  Bertha  Foster, 
widow  of  the  man  whose  patent  glove-hooks  brought  him  a  fortune. 
Maggie  Mitchell,  the  actress,  dwells  in  her  own  house  a  block  east, 
at  the  corner  of  West  End  Avenue  ;  and  Richard  Mansfield  lives  at 
No.  312,  just  beyond  104th  St.  At  io8th  St.  the  huge  square-towered 
house  of  S.  G.  Bayne,  and  the  ivy-grown  one  of  his  neighbor,  H.  S. 

F.  Davis,  are  conspicuous,  but  above  that  few  have  been  built.  This, 
however,  is  the  highest,  most  sightly  part  of  the  drive,  and  lots  are 
said  to  be  worth  $25,000  apiece. 

A  similar  drive  is  La  Fayette  Boulevard,  along  the  view  front  of 
Washington  Heights,  reached  from  Riverside  Drive  by  new  Viaduct 
and  Broadway. 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS. 


59 


Park  carriages  ply  between  72d  St.  and  Grant's  Tomb;  fare,  25  cents. 

The  Clareinont  restaurant  is  one  of  the  historic  landmarks  of  the 
city  and  a  meal  in  its  breezy  verandas  is  one  of  the  indispensable 
things  "to  do."  It  is  on  a  bluff  just  above  Grant's  tomb,  commanding 
an  unsurpassed  view  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Palisades,  and  its  history 
is  an  epitome  of  America's  public  life.  Over  the  adjacent  hills,  with 
Washington  in  command,  was  fought  the  ever  memorable  battle  of 
Harlem.  It  was  modeled  after  Lord  Clive's  historic  Claremoiit  in  Sur- 
rey, England,  now  owned  by  King  Edward  VII.  From  Claremont  the 
British  minister  viewed  the  trials  of  the  first  steamboat  <' /"niton's 
Clermont,  in  1807.  It  was  the  residence  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  whom 
Napoleon  made  King  of  Spain,  and,  since  its  acquisition  by  the  city,  its 
Lessee  (R.  A.  Gushee)  has  entertained  tnitold  hosts  of  guests  from 
President  McKinley  to  the  Governors  and  Officials  of  the  State  and 
City.  Claremo7it  is  in  fact  the  gathering  place  of  the  beauty  and 
the  chivalry  of  the  metropolis. 

The  northern  part  of  the  park  has  kept  the  old  name  Clareinont 
Heights,  and  here,  overlooking  a  commanding  prospect,  and  sur- 
rounded by  quiet  lawns,  which  keep  at  a  reverential  distance  the 
"equipage  and  bravery  of  fashion,"  has  been  placed  the  Tomb  of 
Gen.  U.  S.  Grant,  the  first  soldier  of  the  restored  Union. 

General  Grant  died  on  July  23,  1885.  His  own  preference,  as  well 
as  that  of  his  family,  led  to  his  interment  in  New  York;  and  the  site 
of  the  present  monument  was  chosen,  and  set  apart  by  the  city, 
because  of  its  natural  beauty,  not  only,  but  because  a  memorial  build- 
ing would  be  visible  from  many  distant  points  in  the  city,  harbor,  and 
river.  A  temporary  vault-like  tomb  was  immediately  constructed, 
and  the  body  was  placed  therein,  August  8,  1885,  after  "the  most 
solemn  and  imposing "  funeral  demonstration  ever  made  in  New 
York,  viewed  by  more  than  a  million  people.  Here  the  body  of  the 
great  captain  remained  until  removed  to  its  present  final  resting- 
place,  in  1897.  The  following  description  of  this  magnificent  mau- 
soleum is  quoted  by  permission  from  Gen,  Horace  Porter's  account  in 
The  Century  Magazine,  for  April,  1897: 

»*  The  lower  portion  of  the  tomb  is  a  square  structure  of  the  Grecian- 
Doric  order,  measuring  90  feet  on  a  side.  The  entrance  is  on  the 
soutn  side,  and  is  protected  by  a  portico  formed  of  double  lines  of 
columns,  and  approached  by  steps  70  feet  wide.  The  square  portion 
is  finished  with  a  cornice  and  a  parapet,  at  a  height  from  grade  of  72 
feet,  and  above  this  is  a  circular  cupola  70  feet  in  diameter,  of  the 
Ionic,  which  is  surmounted  with  a  pyramidal  top  terminating  at  a 
height  of  150  feet  above  grade,  or  280  feet  above  mean  high  water  of 
the  Hudson  River.  The  interior  is  cruciform  in  plan,  76  feet  at  the 
greatest  dimension;  the  four  corners  being  piers  of  masonry  connected 
at  the  top  by  coffered  arches,  the  tops  of  which  are  50  feet  from  the 
floor  level.    On  these  arches  rest  an  open  circular  gallery  of  40  feet 


60 


If  ANDY  GUIDE  TO  MEW  YORK  CITY. 


inner  diameter,  culminating  in  a  paneled  dome  105  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  floor.  The  surfaces  between  the  planes  of  the  faces  of 
the  arches  and  the  circular  dome  form  pendentives  which  are  decor- 
ated in  high-relief  sculpture,  the  work  of  J.  Massey  Rhind,  and  emble- 
matic of  the  birth,  military  and  civic  life,  and  death  of  General  Grant. 

.  .  ,  The  approach  to  the  crypt  is  by  stairways  which  give 
access  to  a  passage  encircling  the  space  dedicated  to  the  sarcophagi, 
which  space  is  surrounded  by  square  columns  supporting  paneled 
marble  ceilings  and  entablature." 

In  the  construction  of  this  memorial  the  greatest  care  was  taken  to 
obtain  the  highest  solidity  and  durability.  The  stone  is  granite  from 
North  Jay,  Me.;  only  large,  flawless  blocks  were  used,  and  every- 
where the  best  possible  material  and  workmanship  was  exacted. 
Five  years  passed  between  the  laying  of  the  cornerstone  by  President 
Harrison  and  the  dedication;  and  the  total  cost  will  be  about  $600,000, 
contributed  by  about  90,000  givers,  none  in  a  larger  sum  than  $5,000, 
and  almost  entirely  citizens  of  New  York.  The  matter  has  been  in 
the  hands  of  a  Monument  Association,  the  most  influential  member 
of  which  was  Gen.  Horace  Porter.  Their  sole  reward  was  the  uni- 
versal public  interest  and  magnificent  pageantry  that  united  to  make 
the  dedication  of  this  memorial,  April  27,  1897,  one  of  the  most  nota- 
ble public  occasions  in  the  history  of  the  metropolis  and  the  country. 
The  plans  contemplate  a  noble  approach  from  the  river's  edge,  where 
a  steamboat-landing  will  be  built. 

The  body  of  General  Grant  rests  in  a  sarcophagus  hollowed  from  a 
single,  flawless  block  of  red  porphyry,  quarried  at  Monteiro,  Wis., 
which  is  closed  by  a  massive  lid  of  the  same  lustrous  material.  A 
duplicate  beside  it  will  contain  the  body  of  Mrs.  Grant,  according  to 
the  General's  wishes. 

Morningside  Park  extends  from  Central  Park  at  iioth  St.  to  123d 
St.  It  occupies  high,  rocky  ground,  and  the  battlemented  wall  and 
heavy  staircases  along  its  eastern  side,  overlooking  the  Harlem  flats, 
are  conspicuous  from  the  trains  of  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.  At  its 
northern  end  are  the  remains  of  Fort  Laight,  one  of  the  line  of 
block-houses,  built  to  defend  the  northern  approaches  to  the  city  in 
the  war  of  18 12-14. 

Morningside  Heights  is  the  name  given  to  the  elevated  plateau 
immediately  west  of  Morningside  Park,  which  is  gradually  becoming 
covered  with  imposing  buildings,  and  will  be,  after  a  few  years,  the 
most  beautiful  part  of  the  city.  At  the  southern  end  will  stand  the 
magnificent  Protestant  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  St.  John,  the  Divine; 
a  part  of  the  apse  has  been  erected.  Just  above  it  has  already 
been  finished  the  first    section    of    the    St.    Luke's  Hospital. 


riidlu.  rnpy  i  i^lit  by  Irving  Underhiil. 

MORN  NGSIDE  PARK  AND  CATHEDRAL  HEIGHTS— 1 1 0th  Street. 

Parks  and  Drives  Norih  of  the  Harlem. 

Harlem  has  its  own  little  park  in  pretty  Mt.  Morris  Square,  which 
occupies  about  twenty  acres  and  interrupts  Fifth  Av.,  between  120th 
and  124th  sts. ,  by  its  rocky  hill,  which  is  over  100  feet  high,  and  crowned 
by  an  observatory.  An  examination  of  this  relic  of  the  original 
roughness  of  the  land  here  gives  one  an  idea  of  the  labor  expended 
in  reducing  to  the  present  level  the  streets  and  building  sites  of  this 
now  flat  and  monotonous  district.  Another  reservation  is  that  for 
Colonial  Park,  between  Bradhurst  and  Edgewood  avs.,  extending 
from  W.  145th  to  W.  155th  St. 

Six  new  parks,  in  and  near  the  annexed  district  north  of  the  Har- 
lem River,  recently  projected,  are  as  follows: 

Van  Cortlandt  Park. —  A  new  and  large  park  containing  1,069 
acres,  which  is  yet  almost  in  its  original  condition  of  rocky  woodland, 
lake  and  stream,  and  contains  a  large  parade  ground  for  the  National 
Guard.  Van  Cortlandt  station,  on  the  N.  Y.  &  Putnam  R.  R.,  stands 
upon  its  margin  and  near  the  lake  and  public  golf  links. 

Bronx  Park  lies  along  both  sides  of  the  Bronx  River  above  West 
Farms.  It  is  reached  by  elevated  railroad,  Bronx  Park  Station,  or 
by  the  Subway  to  180th  St.  Station;  and  is  connected  with  Van 
Cortlandt  Park  by  the  Mosholu  Parkway,  and  with  Pelham  Park, 
along  the  coast  of  Long  Island  Sound,  four  miles  eastward,  by 
another  Parkway. 

Bronx  Park  was  long  ago  the  property  of  the  Lorillards,  whose 
mansion  still  stands  near  the  waterfall  that  ran  the  old  snuff  mill 
wheiein  the  family  fortune  was  begun.  The  manor  house  is  now 
a  police  station.    The  Botanical  Gardens,  which  are  resulting 

61 


5 


62  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CiTV. 


from  the  efforts  of  a  society  in  cooperation  with  the  city  government, 
are  in  this  part  of  the  park,  which  has  been  prepared  for  them; 
some  three  hundred  acres  have  been  set  apart  for  this  purpose. 
The  Zoological  Garden,  under  the  care  of  the  New  York  Zoological 
Society,  in  cooperation  with  the  State  and  City,  adjoins  the 
Botanical  Garden  and  has  a  grant  of  266  acres.  A  grand  display  of 
animals,  domiciled  as  nearly  as  possible  in  their  native  circum- 
stances, is  made,  and  special  attention  given  to  American  animals. 
Both  institutions  have  a  high  educational  value,  by  maintaining 
libraries  and  lecture  courses;  and  the  public  is  admitted  free  on 
four  or  five  days  of  each  week. 

Crotona  Park  Is  a  space  of  135  acres  between  Morrisania  and 
Tremont,  also  connected  with  Bronx  Park  by  a  drive.  It  is  easily 
reached  by  the  Suburban  El.  Ry.  to  170th  St.  Claremont  Park  lies 
upon  the  wooded  ridge  three-quarters  of  a  mile  east  of  High  Bridge, 
and  just  west  of  Central  Morrisania  (Harlem  R.  R.)  station;  and  Si. 
Mary  s  Park  is  in  the  heart  of  Morrisania.  There  is  also  a  little 
park  surrounding  the  reservoir  at  the  southern  end  of  High  Bridge. 

Pelham  Bay  Park  is  the  largest  parkin  the  city,  consisting  of  1,756 
acres  of  unimproved  country,  with  seven  miles  of  water-front  on 
Long  Island  Sound.  It  has  great  potentialities  of  development.  It 
is  reached  at  the  Bartow  station  of  the  Harlem  branch  of  the  N.  Y., 
N.  H.  &  H.  R.  R.  A  public  golf  links  has  been  made  by  the  city, 
and  when  this  park  is  joined  to  the  Bronx  by  a  parkway,  as  it  is  in- 
tended to  be,  it  will  be  the  richest  of  the  string  of  parks  that  girdle 
the  great  city  from  the  Sound  to  the  Hudson. 

The  Speedway.  —  This  is  a  public  "speeding  course"  along  the 
west  bank  of  the  upper  Harlem  River,  provided  by  the  city  as  a 
place  where  owners  of  fast  horses  may  test  their  paces.  Its 
length  is  about  three  miles,  and  its  total  width  is  from  125  to  150  feet, 
diminished  to  95  feet,  width  of  roadway,  by  the  sidewalks,  whose 
presence  was  bitterly  opposed  by  the  horsemen,  whose  selfishness  has 
been  conspicuous  in  the  whole  history  of  this  peculiar  feature  of  the 
city's  public  grounds.  The  construction  of  the  road  is  as  follows:  Over- 
lying a  Telford  bed  are  four  inches  of  broken  trap  rock,  graded  to 
give  the  crown  of  the  road  a  dip  of  two  inches  to  the  side  channeling. 
On  this  are  four  inches  of  cinders,  rolled  and  packed  to  the  same 
grade.  The  top  dressing  is  a  mixture  of  sand,  loam,  and  clay,  the 
latter  in  the  proportion  of  about  two  to  one.  The  grade  is  as  nearly 
level  as  it  was  possible  to  get  it.  From  High  Bridge  to  a  little 
beyond  Washington  Bridge  there  are  a  few  slight  inclines  and 
declines,  but  beyond  Washington  Bridge  there  is  a  practically  straight 
and  level  stretch  of  two  miles.  The  speedway  can  be  reached  from 
the  155th  St,  viaduct,  and  also  from  High  Bridge,  and  when  it  is 
thronged  with  fine  horses,  in  gallant  rigs,  it  is  one  of  the  sights  of 
the  metropolis  to  any  one  interested  in  the  subject  of  America's 
special  equine  product,  the  trotter  and  pacer.  Both  are  to  be  seen 
here  in  their  highest  degrees  of  development. 


CITY'S  PARKS,  DRIVES,  AND  MUSEUMS. 


68 


Drives.  —  Though  it  is  pleasant  to  wander  almost  anywhere  along 
the  winding  roads  north  of  the  Harlem,  east  of  the  flats  of  Morrisania, 
some  special  ''drives"  have  been  prepared  and  are  followed  by 
those  who  have  the  carriages  to  use  upon  them.  The  Souther7i  Boul- 
evard starts  from  the  north  end  of  the  Third  Av.  bridge  and  turn- 
ing east  follows  the  line  of  the  Westchester  shore  of  Long  Island 
Sound,  then  curving  around  returns  to  the  westward  and  joins  Central 
Av.  at  Jerome  Park.  It  is  wide,  well  kept,  and  commands  at  its 
southern  end  some  fine  views  of  the  Sound.   It  has  electric  oars. 

Central  AvenUi^  begins  at  the  north  end  of  the  CentraV.  Bridge, 
formerly  called  McComb's  Dam  Bridge.  It  is  reached  by  SeventJi 
Av.  at  155th  St,  It  is  a  wide  boulevard  and  the  road-bed  jS  kept  in 
excellent  condition.  This  is  the  fashionable  drive  of  the  city  outside 
of  Central  Park,  and  every  afternoon,  and  especially  on  Sunday,  it  i;3 
thronged  with  splendid  horses, 

St.  Nzcholas  Avenue. —  This  fine  road  was  formerly  Harlem  Lane, 
and  runs  northwest  from  Central  Park,  alongside  of  the  grounds  of 
the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  and  thence  to  Ft.  Washington, 
where  it  joins  the  King's  Bridge  Road,  which  you  may  follow 
thence  to  King's  Bridge  across  the  Harlem,  after  which  it  runs  into 
Broadway  and  extends  to  Yonkers.    All  these  are  good  'cycling  roads. 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY. 

WASHINGTON  SQUARE  TO  THE  BATTERY. 

The  Washington  Arch. —  The  visitor  passes  from  Fifth  Av.  into 
Washington  Sq.  under  the  noble  curve  of  the  Centennial  Arch,  com- 
pleted in  1893,  which  has  been  exquisitely  modeled  in  marble  at  a 
cost  of  more  than  $250,000,  after  the  temporary  structure  built  there 
for  the  centennial  celebration  of  the  inauguration  of  the  first  president 
of  the  United  States,  which  took  place  in  this  city  on  May  i,  1889, 
with  such  memorable  pomp  and  circumstance.  It  was  paid  for  by 
popular  subscriptions,  mainly  in  small  amounts,  and  almost  wholly  by 
residents  of  the  city;  and  its  sentimental  and  artistic  value  places  it 
among  the  foremost  objects  of  interest  in  the  metropolis. 

The  park  at  Washington  Square  is  nine  acres  in  extent,  and  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  old  Potter's  Field,  wherein  more  than  100,000 
bodies  are  buried.  Later  it  was  a  military  training  ground,  and  a 
camp  for  volunteer  troops  during  the  late  war.  Its  improvement  is 
therefore  more  modern  than  the  appearance  of  the  grand  elms  would 
indicate.  The  north  side  of  Washington  Sq.  is  peculiarly  impressive 
and  interesting,  from  the  style  of  the  residences,  many  of  which 
are  still  inhabited  by  affluent  old  families,  too  conservative  and  too 
much  in  love  with  past  associations  and  with  the  beauty  of  the  loca- 
tion to  yield  to  the  behest  of  fashion  and  move  up-town.  Many  well- 
known  literary  men  and  artists  dwell  in  this  neighborhood. 

The  old  gray  Tudor  halls  of  the  University  of  the  City  of  New  York, 
which  contained  so  many  interesting  memories,  will  be  missed  from 
the  western  side  of  the  square,  where  they  have  been  replaced  by  a 
lofty  modern  structure,  in  the  top  of  which  the  University  has  resumed 

64 


6'6 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


i  ts  sessions  while  the  lower  floors  are  devoted  to  business.  The  region 
south  of  the  square  has  fallen  into  the  deepest  social  degradation ,  and 
is  inhabited  by  a  mixture  of  Italians,  French,  Negroes,  and  nonde- 
scripts, among  whom  the  police  know  many  habitual  criminals.  The 
Italian  poor  predominate  among  the  crowds  that  throng  here  on 
pleasant  evenings;  and  to  this  people  the  city  owes  the  bronze  statue 
of  Garibaldi,  which  faces  the  fountain,  and  is  the  work  of  Giovanni 
Turini.  It  was  in  view  of  this  degradation  that  the  south  side  of  the 
square  was  chosen  as  the  site  of  the  mission  church  and  home  erected 
there  in  1892,  as  a  memorial  to  the  Rev.  Adoniram  Judson,  who  was 
the  first  foreign  missionary  sent  out  from  the  United  States.  Its 
great  yellow  campanile  dominates  the  square,  and  its  parochial  work 
penetrates  to  the  most  squalid  corners  of  the  dark  neighborhood. 

From  Washington  Square  we  walk  down  South  Fifth  Av. ,  through 
the  French  quarter,  to  the  station  of  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.  at  Bleecker 
vSt. ,  and  take  our  seats  in  a  train  bound  down-town. 

We  alight  at  Battery  PI.  and  can  spare  a  few  minutes  for  a  stroll 
about  Battery  Park  and  a  glance  at  Castle  Garden,  facts  in  regard  to 
which  may  be  read  in  the  next  chapter.  This  done,  we  will  turn  our 
steps  up  Broadway  toward  the  commercial  quarter  and  Wall  St. 

Bowling  Green  to  Wall  Street. 

Bowling  Green  is  a  small  oval  of  shrubbery  in  the  triangular  space 
at  the  foot  of  Broadway.  It  is  the  oldest  park  in  the  city,  and  wsi&  a 
market  place  in  the  early  Colonial  days  of  the  Dutch  town,  whose  nar- 
row and  intricate  streets  were  laid  out  between  it  and  East  River. 
The  English  made  a  little  park  of  it,  and  some  of  the  best  houses  of 
pre-Revolutionary  days  overlooked  its  lawn.  Here  was  erected  that 
leaden  statue  of  George  III,  which  the  spirited  young  Americans 
pulled  down  in  1776,  and  out  of  which,  tradition  says,  they  molded 
42,000  bullets  to  fire  at  the  red-coated  subjects  of  the  melted  monarch 
—  which  was  adding  injury  to  insult. 

The  lower  end  of  the  park  is  now  ornamented  by  a  bronze  statue, 
excellent  in  design,  of  Abraham  de  Peyster,  who,  about  1700,  was 
the  principal  merchant  and  most  influential  publicist  in  New  York; 
he  sits  in  a  chair  inscribed  with  symbolic  bas-reliefs.  The  statue  is 
the  gift  of  his  descendant,  J.  Watts  de  Peyster,  and  the  artist  was 
G.  E.  Bissell,  whose  statue  of  Watts  adorns  Trinity  churchyard. 


A  TOUR  OF  Tim  CITY. 


67 


"  On  the  site  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Cyrus  W.  Field's  Washing^con 
building  [the  enormously  high  structure  west  of  The  Green  and  fac- 
ing the  Battery],  No.  i  Broadway,  Archibald  Kennedy,  the  collector 
of  the  port,  built  in  1760,  a  large  house,  which  successively  became 
the  headquarters  of  Lords  Cornwallis  and  How^e,  General  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  and  General  Washington,  while  Talleyrand  made  it  his 
home  during  his  stay  in  America.  Benedict  Arnold  concocted  his 
treasonable  projects  at  No.  5  Broadway,  and  at  No.  11,  on  the  site  of 
the  Burgomaster  Kruger's  Dutch  tavern,  was  General  Gage's  head- 
quarters, in  the  old  King's  Arms  inn.  .  .  .  South  of  the  square, 
and  on  the  site  soon  to  be  occupied  by  the  new  United  States  Custom 
House,  the  first  governor  of  the  New  Netherlands,  Peter  Minuit,  who 
had  bought  the  Island  of  Manhattan  from  the  Indians  for  $24,  built 
Fort  Amsterdam,  a  block -house  surrounded  by  a  cedar  palisade." 

Straight  across  from  The  Green,  at  the  head  of  Whitehall  St.,  the 
long,  stately  fagade  of  the  Produce  Exchange  forms  the  most  con- 
spicuous feature  in  the  scene.  This  building  is  300  by  150  feet  in 
ground  dimensions,  116  feet  high  to  the  cornice  of  the  roof,  and  22.' 
to  the  top  of  the  tower.  It  stands  upon  a  foundation  of  15,000  spruc< 
piles,  and  is  fire-proof  throughout.  The  cost,  including  the  ground, 
was  nearly  $3,200,000,  and  when  the  bonded  debt  is  liquidated  it  will 
yield  an  income  of  $200,000  a  year.  The  external  material  is  brick 
and  terra-cotta,  and  the  style  is  modern  renaissance  of  a  beautiful 
order,  surmounted  by  a  massive  campanile,  and  designed  and  exe- 
cuted by  George  B.  Post,  as  architect. 

The  Produce  Exchange  arose  by  degrees  out  of  the  habit  of  the 
merchants,  from  the  earliest  time,  of  meeting  in  the  central  market- 
place to  traffic  together  and  compare  prices.  In  1690  an  exchange 
building  was  first  erected,  partly  for  their  use,  at  the  foot  of  Broad 
St.,  succeeded  in  1727  by  an  exclusive  corn-exchange  or  market  at 
the  foot  of  Wall  St.  This  was  followed  by  other  buildings  more  and 
more  specially  adapted  to  their  needs,  until  finally  the  merchants 
united  in  erecting  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  now  used  as  the  U.  S. 
Custom  House.  But  after  a  time  a  number  of  discontented  members 
and  outsiders,  who  were  then  doing  business  in  flour  and  grain  in 
the  open  air  at  the  lower  end  of  Broad  St. ,  organized  and  incorpo- 
rated a  new  association  which  set  up  for  itself  at  the  corner  of  White- 
hall and  Pearl,  Sts. ,  where  Washington  Irving  had  lived  in  his 
younger  days.  To  this  new  center  all  the  old  members  were  finallj 
obliged  to  come,  and  in  1868  the  "  New  York  Produce  Exchange 
was  organized,  and  on  May  6,  1884,  the  members  took  possession  ol 
this  new  '*  temple  of  commerce."  The  old  Corn  Exchange  has  been 
torn  down,  and  in  its  place  has  arisen  the  Army  Building.  The 
membership  has  long  since  reached  the  limit,  3,000,  and  when  a 
vacancy  occurs,  by  death  or  otherwise,  from  $3,000  to  $5,000  is  paid 
at  an  auction  aniong  approved  bidders  for  the  vacated  certificate. 


68 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Several  large  entrances  admit  to  the  corridors,  where  are  a  branch 
post-office,  the  offices  of  the  Produce  Exchange  Bank,  and  several 
other  corporations.  Nine  elevators  are  constantly  running,  and  vis- 
itors may  easily  go  to  the  foot  of  the  tower,  where  they  are  permitted 
to  ascend  the  stairways  to  its  summit. 

If  the  visitor  does  not  care  for  the  Tower  he  stops  at  the  Gallery 
floor,  and  passes  into  the  balcony  overlooking  the  ''floor"  of  the 
Exchange. 


THE  PRODUCE  EXCHANGE —  Whitehall,  Beaver,  and  Stone  Streets. 

Several  other  analogous  business  associations  may  be  noted. 
Among  them  are:  The  Mercantile  Exchange  —  butter,  eggs,  etc. — 
in  Hudson  St.;  the  Coffee  Exchange,  at  Pearl  and  Beaver  Sts.;  the 
Cotton  Exchange,  (see  below);  the  Maritime  Exchange ^  in  the  Pro- 
duce Exchange  building;  the  Metal  Exchange,  on  Burling  Slip;  the 
Coal  and  Iron  Exchange,  131  East  58th  St.;  the  Real  Estate  Ex- 
change, III  Broadway  (see  Harper's  Magazine,  November,  1888); 
Building  Material  Exchange,  11  Broadway,  and  the  Horse  Ex- 
change, whose  great  stables  are  at  50th  St.  and  Broadway,  and 
which  acts  in  conjunction  with  Tattersalls,  in  London. 

Representatives  of  all  theses  unita  to  form  the  Chamber  of  Com- 


70  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


merce,  which  was  incorporated  in  1770,  and  is  the  oldest  commercial 
corporation  in  the  United  States. 

Leaving  the  Produce  Exchange  we  walk  eastward  through  Beaver 
St. ,  originally  a  canal,  leading  into  the  greater  inlet  which  penetrated 
what  is  now  Broad  St.  Opposite  the  Exchange  is  a  handsome  gran- 
ite pile,  which  is  the  rear  of  the  Welles  building,  whose  still  grander 
front  of  rose  granite  is  at  No.  18  Broadway.  A  cluster  of  Atlantic 
cable  offices  will  attract  attention.  The  narrow  cross  street  is  New, 
which  leads  northward  to  Wall.  Its  tall  buildings  are  filled  with 
commercial  offices,  and  the  sidewalks  are  crowded  with  curbstone  " 
brokers.  The  next  street  crossed  is  Broad,  with  the  beautiful  Morris 
building  on  the  corner.  Beaver  St.  suffers  a  jog,"  and  on  the 
other  side  of  Broad  there  comes  suddenly  into  view  ahead  the  great 
round  front  of  yellow  brick,  and  the  conical  red  roof-tower  of  the 
Cotton  Exchange,  where  all  the  dealings  in  cotton  in  the  United 
States  concentrate.  Here  William  St.  crosses  and  South  William 
diverges;  and  on  the  wedge  of  land  between  the  latter  and  Beaver 
is  Delmonico's  restaurant,  occupying  a  fine  new  building  that  replaces 
the  old  one  where  the  original  of  this  famous  restaurant  was  known 
for  so  many  years.  The  opposite  corner  is  covered  by  the  splendid 
building  of  the  Corn  Exchange  Bank;  and  the  fourth  corner  by  a 
third  magnificent  structure  in  gray  stone,  built  and  occupied  by  the 
Farmers'  Loan  &  Trust  Company.  Beyond  the  Corn  Exchange  are 
seen  the  great building,  and  the  new  offices  of  the  venerable 
Journal  of  Commerce,  while  northward  Lords  Court  and  the  Dela- 
ware, Lackawanna  &  Western  Railway  offices  carry  the  lofty  line 
of  walls  to  Exchange  PI.  and  the  rear  of  the  Custom  House.  All 
of  this  notable  group  of  new  buildings  are  very  lofty,  very  costly, 
and  very  comely  in  architecture,  while  their  structure  and  interior 
arrangements  and  finish  are  of  the  most  modern  and  highly  finished 
character.  A  few  steps  farther  on  we  run  out  of  Beaver  St.  into 
Pearl  St.  at  the  point  where  it  crosses 

Wall  Street. —  "In  the  neighborhood  of  old  Ft.  George,  were 
clustered  a  number  of  the  aristocratic  families  who,  before  the  Revo- 
lution, had  been  accustomed  to  give  the  pas  in  fashion,  such  as  th^ 
Delanceys,  Livingstons,  Morrisses,  Bayards,  De  Peysters,  Crugers, 
but  for  some  years  Wall  St.,  where  abode  the  Winthrops,  Whites, 
Ludlows,  Verplancks,  and  Marstons,  had  been  running  an  even  race 
with  Pearl,  getting  ahead  in  the  end,  and  holding  precedence  till 
Park  PI,  claimed  the  laurels.  Cortlandt  St.  gained  luster  from  the 
residence  there  of  Sir  John  Temple,  Colonel  and  Lady  Kitty  Duer, 
Major  Fairlin,  and  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Crawford,  once  Mrs.  Robert 


WALL  STREET  AND  TRINITY  CHURCH. 
71 


12  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Livingston.  In  Wall  St.  was  to  be  found  the  very  desirable  board- 
ing house  of  Mrs.  Daubenay,  or  Dabney,  the  great  resort  of  Southern 
members  of  Congress.  Broadway  had  been  a  pleasant  bowery  street 
until  the  great  fire  of  1776  swept  through  it,  leaving  desolation  in  its 
wake." 

In  the  early  Dutch  days  Pearl  St.  was  the  natural  shore  line  (it  owes 
its  sinuosity  to  that  fact  —  not  to  its  having  been  a  cow-path"  as 
the  story  goes)  and  an  estuary  penetrated  the  length  of  Broad  St. 

In  1652  the  defenseless  condition  of  the  Dutch  town  led  Governor 
Stuyvesant  to  prepare  a  fortified  line  of  defense  against  a  probable 
attack  by  Indians,  not  only,  but  from  New  England,  where  the 
English  colonists  were  threatening  the  Dutch.  A  line  of  palisades 
was  planted  from  river  to  river  (Pearl  to  Greenwich  Sts.),  just  above 
the  head  of  the  Heere  Graft  (Broad  St.  inlet),  banked  up  with  earth 
and  having  a  broad  space  wathin  cleared  for  the  convenience  of  the 
defenders.  This  *'wall"  rapidly  decayed,  but  was  repaired  from 
time  to  time,  and  after  the  capture  of  the  city  by  the  English  in  1663 
was  substantially  rebuilt  and  defended  by  stone  bastions  at  the  gates 
at  Broadway  and  the  East  River,  and  by  an  **  artillery  mount"  at 
William  St.  Meanwhile  houses  were  built  along  the  cleared  space 
within  the  palisade.  It  finally  was  recognized  as  a  street,  naturally 
named  Wall.  Not  until  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century  were 
any  streets  north  of  Wall  laid  out.  All  that  tract  was  "  Damen's 
farms,"  as  far  north  as  "  the  Maiden's  Path  "  (Maiden  Lane),  which 
"  was  a  very  ancient  road,  ....  its  course  through  a  valley 
the  easiest  route  of  passage  from  the  two  great  highways  along  the 
North  and  East  River  sides." 

From  the  very  first  Wall  St.  became  a  choice  thoroughfare  in  the 
growing  town,  where  the  best  people  lived,  and  it  retained  this  char- 
acter, with  little  business  intermingled  (except  toward  the  foot  of  it, 
where  the  slave-market  stood)  until  after  the  Revolution.  "The 
financial  institutions  of  the  city  became  concentrated  here  gradually, 
having  been  first  drawn  to  the  locality  and  then  kept  there  for  some 
time  by  the  fact  that  nearly  all  the  government  buildings  stood  on  the 
street.  The  City  Hall  was  here  before  its  removal  to  its  present  site ; 
so  were  the  courts,  and  the  first  Congress,  of  the  United  States  after 
the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  assembled  in  a  building  which  cov- 
ered the  site  of  the  present  Sub-Treasury."  Now  the  name  stands 
not  only  fov  the  assemblage  of  great  financial  institutions  which  line 
its  quarter-mile,  but  for  the  whole  body  of  dealings  in  money  and 
securities  that  go  on  in  New  York  under  the  lead  of  the  Stock 


A  TOUR  OP  THE  CITY, 


Exchange;  yet  the  offices  of  the  manipulators  of  the  largest  and  most 
influential  of  the  financial  operations  credited  to  "  Wall  Street  "  are 
often  several  blocks  away  from  that  short  avenue,  whose  paving 
stones  might  be  replaced  by  gold  bricks  without  exhausting  the 
vaults  of  wealth  and  the  world-wide  resources  the  street  represents. 

Let  us  note  a  few  of  the  sign-boards.  The  even  numbers  are  on 
the  right-hand  (northern)  side  of  the  street  as  w^e  saunter  up  toward 
Broadway.  At  the  next  corner  below  used  to  stand  the  Old  Tontine 
Coffee  House,  and  the  Tontine  commercial  building  is  now  a  monu- 
ment upon  its  site.  At  No.  80,  just  below  Pearl  St. ,  is  the  Southern 
National  Bank,  and  at  No.  76  the  Seamans'  Bank  for  Savinga  The 
Sampson  building  is  at  No.  65,  and  at  62  the  New  York  branch  0/  the 
Nevada  Bank  of  San  Francisco;  but  insurance  offices  almost  exclu- 
sively occupy  the  numbers  from  72  to  56,  together  with  many  offices 
opposite  them.  In  the  Brown  Brothers'  building  at  59-61  are  located, 
besides  the  offices  of  that  distinguished  firm  of  bankers,  the  New 
York  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  the  Merchant's  Bank  of 
Canada,  and  the  Stock  Agency  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Ry.  This 
brings  us  to  Hanover  St.,  and  to  the  U.  S.  L^ustom  House,  which 
occupies  the  whole  block  on  the  south  side  of  Wall  between  Hanover 
and  William  Sts. 

The  Custom  House  is  a  massive  structure  of  granite,  with  an  Ionic 
portico  sustained  by  fluted  pillars  of  granite,  and  reached  by  a  broad 
flight  of  steps,  which  together  make  an  imposing  effect.  The  interior 
is  one  great  rotunda,  covered  by  a  dome  supported  upon  eight  columns 
of  Italian  marble,  whose  Corinthian  capitals  were  carved  in  Italy. 
This  was  the  floor"  of  the  old  Merchants'  Exchange,  for  which  the 
structure  was  originally  prepared;  and  it  is  now  filled  with  an  inner 
and  outer  circle  of  desks,  occupied  by  those  clerks  with  whom  the 
public  has  most  business.  A  bridge  across  Exchange  PI.  connects 
this  rotunda  with  a  second  building  where  other  offices  are;  but  there 
is  nothing  of  interest  to  a  casual  visitor  to  be  seen  beyond  the  rotunda. 

Opposite  the  Custom  House,  at  No.  54,  is  the  lofty  brick  front  of 
the  Central  Trust  Company;  at  No.  52  are  the  City  Bank,  the  Bank 
of  British  North  America,  financial  agencies  of  several  Northwestern 
railroad  companies,  the  law  offices  of  ex-Secretary  Evarts  and  his 
partners,  and  several  other  important  factors  in  commercial  life.-  No. 
50  is  the  abode  of  agencies  for  banks  in  China,  and  other  large  insti- 
tutions. The  Bank  of  America's  big  building  across  the  street  (No. 
46)  was  completed  in  1889,  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000.  Then  follows  a 
cluster  of  very  striking  buildings  lately  erected,  grand  in  their  archi- 
tecture and  magnificent  in  all  their  interior  appointments,  of  which 


76 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


the  new  Merchants  and  Manhattan  Bank  building  is  perhaps  the 
most  costly  and  imposing. 

The  nine -story  building  of  the  United  States  Trust  Co.,  at  43-45, 
cost  about  $700,000.  No.  35  is  the  Wall  St.  wing  of  the  great  Mills 
building,  erected  some  years  ago  by  Senator  D.  O.  Mills,  one  of  the 
"  silver  kings  "  of  California,  at  an  expense  of  over  $4,000,000.  It  has 
frontages  of  1 75  feet  on  Broad  St. ,  1 50  feet  on  Exchange  PI. ,  and  25  feet 
on  Wall  St. ,  is  ten  stories  in  height,  and  has  330  rooms.  The  beauti- 
ful brown  stone  building  opposite  it  (No.  36)  is  occupied  by  New 
England  railways,  etc.  No.  29  is  the  old  marble  house  of  Drexel, 
Morgan  &  Co. ,  and  contains,  besides  the  extensive  offices  of  that  firm, 
those  of  the  Leather  Bank.  This  brings  us  to  the  corner  of  Broad  St. , 
and  into  view  just  below  on  the  left  of  the  lofty  double  front  of  the 
Mills  building,  with  its  beautiful  wrought-iron  entrance,  while  on  the 
right,  the  front  of  the  Stock  Exchange  becomes  conspicuous. 

Opposite  the  head  of  Broad  St.,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  Wall  St., 
stand  the  Assay  Office  and  the  Sub-Treasury  of  the  United  States. 

The  Assay  Office,  No.  30,  is  the  oldest  building  in  the  street.  It  is 
of  marble,  and  represents  a  handsome  style,  much  in  favor  for  public 
buildings  a  century  ago.  It  is  open  to  visitors  from  2  to  4  p.  m.,  and 
is  well  worth  examination.  "  Every  operation  is  here  carried  on  that 
is  done  in  the  Mint,  except  the  actual  stamping  of  the  money.  In  the 
front  are  the  offices  of  the  assay er,  and  the  room  where  crude  bullion 
is  received  and  paid  for;  and  in  the  six-story  building  at  the  rear  it  is 
assayed,  refined,  separated,  and  cast  into  bars.  Gold  and  silver  are 
here  to  be  seen  in  great  profusion,  the  former  generally  in  bars  weigh- 
ing from  250  to  300  ounces,  and  worth  from  $5,000  to  $6,000,  and  the 
latter  in  bars  weighing  about  200  ounces,  and  worth  $250.  The  gold 
which  is  used  in  the  arts  is  generally  in  thick  square  plates,  worth 
from  $100  to  $800.  The  most  noticeable  curiosities  are  the  hydraulic 
press,  by  which  a  great  quantity  of  silver  is  compressed  into  a  round 
body  not  unlike  a  milk-pan;  the  crystallizing  vats,  where  the  metal  is 
subjected  to  the  action  of  powerful  acids,  and  the  melting-room,  where 
at  intervals  the  gold  and  silver  are  poured  off .  From  twenty  to  one 
hundred  millions  of  crude  bullion  are  here  received  and  assayed  in 
the  course  of  a  year." 

The  Sub-Treasury  is  the  large  Doric  building  of  granite  extend- 
ing from  the  Assay  Office  to  Nassau  St. ,  and  reaching  through  to  Pine 
St.  in  the  rear.  It  stands  upon  the  site  of  the  old  Dutch  City  Hall 
and  of  the  subsequent  Federal  buildings,  where  Washington  was  in- 
augurated first  President  of  the  United  States,  in  1789.  The  broad 
flight  of  steps  is  nov/  broken  by  a  pedestal  bearing  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's 
colossal  bronze  statue  of  Washington  Taking  the  Oath,  which  was  paid 
for  by  popular  subscription,  and  unveiled  in  1883.   This  building  was 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY, 


77 


first  erected  for  the  Custom  House,  but  was  long  ago  outgrown  and 
remodeled  for  its  present  purpose.  Within  there  is  a  rotunda  60  ft. 
in  diameter,  the  dome  being  supported  by  16  Corinthian  columns. 
Around  this  rotunda  are  ranged  the  desks  of  the  various  divisions  of 
the  Sub-Treasury.  There  are  two  large  vaults  for  the  storage  of  gold 
coin  and  notes  on  this  floor,  and  the  large  vaults  for  the  storage  of 
silver  are  in  the  basement.  Near  the  Pine  St.  entrance  are  the  two 
rooms  devoted  to  the  handling  of  gold  and  silver  coin.  More  money  is 
stored  in  this  building  than  anywhere  else  in  the  country,  except  in 
the  Treasury  vaults  at  Washington,  and  the  majority  of  the  money 
paid  out  by  the  General  Government  is  by  drafts  upon  this  Sub- 
Treasury. 

The  street  at  the  side  of  the  Sub-Treasury  is  Nassau,  which  runs 
straight  north  to 
City  Hall  Sq.  In 
this  lower  part  it  is 
occupied  wholly  by 
banking  and  com- 
mercial concerns, 
as  also  is  Pine  St. 
in  the  rear  of  the 
Sub-Treasury, 
where  many  insur- 
ance companies 
and  other  large  in- 
stitutions  are 
located.  Farther 
on,  Nassau  St.  is 
devoted  largely  to 
picture  stores, 
shops  for  the  sale 
of  stationery  and  office  supplies,  and  a  great  number  of  second-hand 
book-stores.  At  its  upper  end  the  lofty  buildings  are  occupied 
principally  by  lawyers,  and  it  finally  merges  into  *•  Newspaper 
Square."  It  has  lately  acquired  some  very  fine  tall  buildings,  the 
most  conspicuous  and  beautiful  of  which  is  that  of  the  Mutual  Life 
Insurance  Company,  filling  the  east  side  of  the  block  between  Liberty 
and  Cedar  Sts.  The  Sheldon  building,  on  the  corner  of  John  St., 
and  the  bank  of  Commerce  at  Cedar  St.,  are  noteworthy. 

Returning  to  Wall  St.,  the  latest  new  edifice  is  the  narrow,  twenty- 
6 


THE  SUB-TREASURY. 


rs         HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


story  Gillender  building,  partly  occupied  by  the  Manhattan  Trust 
Company,  at  the  corner  of  Wall  and  Nassau  Sts. ,  opposite  the  hand- 
some Wilkes  building.  It  was  opened  in  May,  1897.  Nos.  14-16 
are  covered  by  a  wing  of  the  Schermerhorn  building,  owned  by  the 
Astor  family.    It  is  full  of  business  men. 

The  New  York  Stock  Exchange,  the  oldest  and  most  legitimate 
organization  of  brokers,  own  an  estate  at  10  Broad  St.,  extending 
through  to  New  St.  In  the  interim  their  business  is  carried  on  at  the 
ProQuce  Exchange.  No  one  but  a  member  is  allowed  upon  the  floor, 
and  when  it  is  remembered  that  $80,000  is  paid  for  that  privilege,  the 
restriction  is  not  to  ?)e  wondered  at.  The  hours  are  from  10  a.  m.  to  3 
p.  M.,  and  members  are  forbidden  to  make  any  transactions  except 
during  those  hours.  The  dealings  are  wholly  in  stocks,  bonds,  and 
other  securities  which  have  been  recognized  or  listed"  by  the 
Exchange.  The  most  prominent  of  thes.e  are  represented  by  name 
upon  iron  standards  scattered  about  the  floor,  around  which  the  selling 
and  buying  of  those  particular  securities  go  on. 

A  younger  organization  with  similar  purposes  is 

The  Consolidated  Petroleum  and  Stock  Exchange,  w^hich  has  oc- 
cupied since  April,  1888,  a  noble  building  with  large  accommodations 
for  business,  at  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Exchange  PL  It 
arose  from  a  consolidation  of  various  boards  dealing  in  oil,  mining  and 
general  securities,  and  began  operations  in  1875.  It  now  does  nearly 
as  much  business  as  the  older  board,  and  the  scene  from  its  gallery 
(the  entrance  to  which  is  on  Broadway)  is  often  even  more  animated, 
since  the  stocks  and  bonds  of  oil  and  mining  corporations  are  more 
fluctuating  than  those  of  railway  and  telegraph  companies. 

The  New  Bank  Clearing  House,  in  Cedar  St. ,  a  few  doors  east  of 
Broadway,  first  occupied  in  January,  1896,  is  of  marble,  carved  in  all 
the  profusion  of  the  Italian  renaissance,  its  window  spaces  set  off  by 
Corinthian  pillars,  and  surmounted  by  an  entablature  bearing  carv- 
ings of  the  arms  of  the  city  and  other  designs.  This  is,  in  many 
respects,  the  most  beautiful  building  in  New  York.  The  room.s  of 
the  Clearing  House  Association,  composed  now  of  sixty-six  banks,  are 
on  the  upper  floor  beneath  the  skylighted  dome.  The  ground  floor 
is  occupied  by  the  Chase  National  Bank,  whose  offices  are  finished  in 
marbles,  gilded  stucco,  and  artistic  metal  work.  The  great  steel  safe 
in  the  basement  is  made  to  hold  210  tons  of  gold,  or  about  $105,000- 
000  in  coin. 

No.  10  Wall  St.,  at  the  head  of  New  St.,  is  the  splendid  Astor 
building,  on  the  site  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church.  The  grand  new 
yellow  brick  structure  opposite  (Nos.  9-1 1)  is  the  Mortimer  building 
This  brings  us  to  the  corner  of  Broadway,  where  rise  the  massive 
walls  of  the  United  Bank  building.    Here  are  the  rooms  of  its  joint 


NEW   "NEW  YORK  STOCK  EXCHANGE"  BUILDING. 
79 


80 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


owners,  the  First  National  Bank  and  the  Bank  of  the  Republic;  d 
several  private  banking  firms,  and  of  Southern  and  Western 
railways;  and  here  General  Grant  had  his  offices  during  his  brief  and 
ill-fated  career  in  the  street." 

Up  Broadway  to  the  City  Hall, 

Some  of  the  noblest  and  costliest  business  structures  in  the  city- 
stand  on  Broadway  below  Wall  St.  At  No.  i  is  the  exceedingly  lofty 
Washington  building  (p.  94).  Nos.  5  to  11  are  now  covered  by  the 
Bowling  Green  offices,  a  Hellenic-renaissance,  light-colored,  sixteen- 
story  building  surrounding  an  open  court.  Its  fagade,  235  feet  high, 
is  one  of  the  most  massive  and  imposing  in  the  city;  and  its  door- 
ways and  details  as  well  as  its  structure  have  an  architectural  excel- 
lence worthy  of  careful  examination.  This  edifice  and  the  ground 
it  stands  on  (about  i&o  by  190  feet)  are  valued  at  $3,600,000.  At 
No.  18,  next  above  the  Produce  Exchange,  the  grand  front  of  the 
Welles  building  appears.  No.  26  is  covered  by  the  massive  structure 
of  the  Standard  Oil  Company,  and  No.  29  by  the  ornate  Columbia. 
At  No.  45  the  richly  carved  fagade  and  antique  entrance  of  Aldrich 
.  Court  will  be  admired,  and  the  Consolidated  Exchange  is  nearly 
opposite.  Covering  the  numbers  64-68  is  the  lately  erected  home 
of  the  Manhattan  Life  Ins.  Co.,  a  double  building  of  white  sand- 
stone, fronting  on  both  Broadway  and  New  St.,  connected  at  the 
roof  by  a  flying  arch,  and  surmounted  by  a  cupola  containing  the  office 
of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau.  In  its  rear  rise  the  equally  lofty  domes 
of  the  Commercial  Cable  building,  extending  from  New  to  Broad  St. 

The  dignified  granite  home  of  the  Union  Trust  Company  at  No. 
80,  and  the  Tower  at  No.  50,  are  conspicuous  buildings;  the  last 
named  stands  on  a  lot  only  22  ft.  wide,  yet  it  runs  up  to  13  stories 
(167  ft.)  and  contains  120  offices.  All  of  these,  like  most  of  those 
mentioned  heretofore,  are  new,  architecturally  imposing,  splendidly 
fitted  within,  and  return  a  fair  rate  of  interest  upon  the  investment. 

This  brings  us  to  Trinity  Church,  surrounded  by  its  historic 
churchyard  and  looking  straight  down  Wall  St. 

"  Where  Jews  and  Gentiles  most  are  wont 
To  throng  for  trade  and  last  quotations — 

Where,  hour  by  hour,  the  rates  of  gold 
Outrival  in  the  ears  of  people, 

The  quarter-chimes  serenely  told 
From  Trinity's  undaunted,  steeple." 

But  this  noble  house  of  worship  is  fully  described  in  the  chapter  on 


81 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Churches  and  need  not  be  repainted  here,  further  than  to  say  that 
the  churchyard  and  the  church  itself  are  open  at  all  suitable  hours 
to  visitors.  The  climbing  of  the  steeple  used  to  be  one  of  the  ' '  things 
to  do,"  but  now  an  equally  good  view  of  the  city  may  be  had  from 
the  roofs  of  the  Washington  or  Equitable  buildings,  or  from  the 
tower  of  the  Produce  Exchange,  to  each  of  which  the  visitor  is  carried 
by  an  elevatoi  The  yellow  office  building  north  of  the  churchyard 
was  erected  by  the  trustees  of  the  property;  and  the  magnificent  Em- 
pire Building,  on  the  south,  was  built  in  1898  on  the  site  of  the  build- 
ing where  Russell  Sage  had  his  famous  adventure  with  dynamite. 

The  American  Surety  Company  s  building,  at  Broadway  and 
Pme  St.,  is  one  of  the  loftiest  commercial  edifices,  307  feet  above 
the  pavement  and  having  twenty -one  fire-proof  floors,  in  addition  to 
basements.  The  building  was  designed  by  Bruce  Price;  the  site  is 
nearly  square,  and  the  foundation  extends  seventy-two  feet  below 
the  street.  The  street  facades  are  of  granite  and  the  rear  walls  of 
brick  to  the  height  of  the  fifteenth  story,  from  which  point  granite  is 
wholly  used  for  facing  all  walls.  The  building  contains  about  500 
offices.  Express  elevators  run  to  the  upper  floors,  and  other  cars  give 
access  to  all  floors.  Just  above  is  the  Boreel  building  (No.  119),  largely 
occupied  by  insurance  companies,  and  directly  across  the  way,  at  No. 
120,  rises  the  palatial  home  of  the  Equitable  Life  Assurance  Society, 
known  far  and  wide  as  the  Equitable  building. 

The  Equitable. —  This  towering  and  sumptuous  structure  should 
not  be  neglected  by  the  sight-seer.  Its  broad  ground-floor  corridor 
runs  straight  through  to  Nassau  St.,  and  forms  a  brilliant  arcade, 
paved,  walled,  and  adorned  with  yari-colored  marbles,  and  illumi- 
nated by  electricity,  along  which  elegant  little  shops  and  restaurants 
are  arranged  The  letter  chute  and  pneumatic  despatch  tubes  on 
this  floor  should  be  looked  at,  too.  In  the  basement  are  a  grand 
array  of  hydraulic  pumps  and  other  machinery,  and  the  largest  elec- 
tric lighting  plant  in  the  city  devoted  to  a  single  establishment. 
Taking  any  one  of  the  several  elevators  the  visitor  may  be  carried  to 
the  top  story  and  ascend  to  the  roof,  where  an  extensive  view  of  the 
city  is  obtained — a  pleasure  which  no  one  ought  to  forego. 

Liberty  St.,  one  of  the  few  that  cross  lower  Broadway,  and  which 
is  devoted  largely  to  machinery  depots;  Cortlandt  St.,  leading  down 
to  the  Jersey  City  ferry;  Maiden  Lane,  the  abode  of  jewelers,  deal- 
ers in  diamonds  and  gems,  and  the  makers  of  instruments  of  precis- 
ion; Dey  St.,  with  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company's  build- 
ing on  the  corner,  and  John  St.,  opening  eastward,  are  crossed  in 
succession  as  one  walks  on  up  Broadway.    Out  from  the  mass  of 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY, 


83 


these  streets  rise  certain  very  lofty  and  beautiful  new  buildings,  of 
which  that  of  the  Lawyer's  Title  Insurance  Company,  running 
through  from  44  Maiden  Lane  to  Liberty  St.,  is  especially  note- 
worthy, particularly  for  the  graceful  finish  of  its  roof  and  the  carv- 
ing on  its  northern  fagade.  The  Downing  building,  at  106-8  Fulton 
St.,  ought  also  to  be  noticed.  The  tall  new  building  at  John  and 
Broadway,  owned  by  the  Corbin  estate,  is  occupied  by  the  Long 
Island  R.  R.  Co.,  the  Chatham  and  Corbin  banks,  etc. 

This  brings  us  to  Fulton  St.  named  in  honor  of  the  man,  who,  if 
not  wholly  the  originator,  was  certainly  the  practical  inventor  of  the 
steamboat.  It  is  an  extremely  busy  street,  all  the  way  down  to  Ful- 
ton Market  on  one  side,  and  to  Washington  Market  on  the  othe^ . 
The  lofty  home  of  The  Evening  Post,  erected  by  William  Cullen 
Bryant  and  his  partners,  stands  upon  the  southeast  corner,  and  begins 
the  long  catalogue  of  newspapers  which  congregate  between  here 
and  the  Brooklyn  Bridge.  The  highly  ornamented,  tower-like  build- 
ing of  The  Mail  afid  Express  stands  opposite,  with  its  larger  face 
on  Fulton  St.  The  opposite  block  is  occupied  by  old  St.  Paul's  and 
its  churchyard,  and  the  Astor  House  (see  Hotels)  fills  the  succeeding 
block.  The  Ann  St.  corner,  where  the  Herald  once  stood,  now 
supports  the  tall  and  ugly  St.  Paul's  building  finished  in  1897. 

Here,  at  the  parting  of  the  ways,  the  motley  pile  of  the  Post  Office 
rears  its  huge  bulk,  with  the  City  Hall  in  its  rear.  Broadway 
stretches  northward  west  of  it;  to  the  right  Park  Row  leads  off  at  an 
angle  toward  Chatham  Sq.  and  the  Bowery.  The  rush  and  turmoil 
«)f  traffic  here  are  indescribable.  At  the  very  beginning  of  Park 
Row  has  risen  one  of  the  tallest  business  buildings  of  thp  city, 
called  the  Park  Row,  thirty-three  stories  in  height.  The  old 
buildings  beyond  are  covered  with  the  signboards  of  newspapers 
known  all  over  the  country.  Eeekman  St.  (named  from  that  old  farmer 
and  tanner  who  owned  all  tLis  region,  and  the  "  swamp"  besides, 
long  decades  ago,  and  founded  one  of  the  wealthiest  of  Knickerbocker 
families)  strikes  across  Park  Row,  passes  (by  Mail  St.)  to  Broadway  and 
continues,  under  the  name  of  Park  PI.,  westward  to  North  River. 
A  few  doors  down  Beekman  is  Temple  Ct.,  the  home  of  the  Nassau 
Bank  and  of  countless  lawyers.  On  the  other  side  of  Beekman  the 
iron  and  stone  mass  of  the  Potter  building  rises  skyward,  and  next 
beyond,  covering  the  point  between  Park  Row  and  Nassau  St.,  is  the 
old  Times  building,  beautiful  in  architecture  and  notable  in  it^ 
construction, 


84 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


At  the  head  of  Nassau  St.,  and  just  across  from  City  Hall  Park,  is 
Printing  House  Square,  an  open,  paved  space  in  the  center  of  which 
stands  a  statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  erected  in  1872,  after  the 
design  of  Plassman  and  at  the  expense  of  Captain  De  Groot,  formerly 
a  steamboat  commander  on  the  Hudson;  while  Ward's  statue  of 
Horace  Greeley  is  just  in  front  of  The  Tribune.  Around  this 
limited  space,  within  easy  hail  of  one  another,  are  published  the 
Daily  Tribune y  Sun,  Journal,  World,  Press,  News,  and  Staats 
Zeitung,  while  several  other  daily  and  weekly  newspapers  in  foreign 
languages  are  issued  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Here  is  the  news- 
paper center  of  New  York;  and  these  precincts  are  hardly  less  wide- 
awake and  active  at  midnight  than  at  midday.  The  cupola  of  the 
World  hmlding  is  open  to  visitors  daily  from  9  to  i.  A  notable 
addition  to  this  towering  group  is  the  Tract  Society's  new  building, 
east  of  Nassau  St.,  24  stories  in  height,  and  framed  of  steel. 

Here  is  the  entrance  to  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  (see  page  8),  and, 
if  this  is  your  only  opportunity  to  inspect  the  structure,  it  would  be 
well  to  walk  out  a  few  hundred  feet  upon  the  promenade;  or  better 
yet,  spare  15  minutes  for  a  trip  across  it  in  the  cars  and  return. 


In  and  Around  the  City  Hall. 

This  little  spot  of  green,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  above  the  Battery, 
which  is  called  City  Hall  Square,  and  the  fine  building  in  its  center, 
are  interesting,  not  only  as  the  place  where  the  government  of  the 
city  is  conducted,  but  historically  and  architecturally. 

The  Statue  to  Nathan  Hale  should  not  be  overlooked.  It  is  of 
bronze,  by  McMonnies,  and  stands  in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  park, 
facing  Broadway;  and  it  is  one  of  thf  most  spirited  and  satisfactory 
statues  in  the  city.    It  represents  him  ready  for  his  heroic  death. 

The  Hall  of  Records,  which  cost  $600,000  to  build,  will  be  seen  at 
the  corner  of  Chambers  and  Center  Sts.  The  surrounding  park  is 
all  that  is  left  of  the  ancient  Commons,  which  extended  northward 
to  the  ''Collect"  or  pond,  beyond  Duane  St.,  where  the  Tombs  now 
rears  its  grim  quadrangle.  Here  stood  the  old  "bridewell,"  the  alms- 
house, the  "new"  jail,  and  a  gibbet,  all  near  Chambers  St.,  and  all  of 
which  long  ago  disappeared.  The  rapid  growth  of  the  town  after  the 
close  of  the  Revolution  made  it  expedient  to  abandon  the  old  City 
Hall  in  Wall  St. ,  and  to  erect  a  newer  and  larger  one,  which,  as  public 
opinion  decreed ,  had  to  be  placed  in  the  Commons. 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY, 


87 


The  plans  of  architect  John  McComb  were  accepted  in  1803,  but  it 
was  not  until  181 2  that  the  building  was  really  complete.  The  total 
expenditure  upon  it  was  less  than  $500,000.  Marble  was  used  for  the 
front  and  ends;  but  no  one  urged  anything  better  than  brown-stone 
for  the  rear,  since  it  was  not  supposed  that  anybody  of  any  conse- 
quence would  ever  live  north  of  this  spot.  In  1858  a  spark  from  the 
fireworks,  displayed  from  the  roof  at  the  celebration  of  the  successful 
laying  of  the  first  Atlantic  cable,  set  fire  to  the  beautiful  cupola, 
wnich  was  destroyed,  and  the  low  dome  over  the  rotunda  was  dam- 
aged. These  were  clumsily  replaced.  A  picture  of  the  hall  previous 
to  that  time,  and  of  the  architect's  drawing  of  the  cupola,  may  be 
found  in  The  Century  for  April,  1884,  adorning  an  article  upon  this 
building,  in  respect  to  which  the  writer,  Mr.  Ed.  S.  Wilde,  remarks: 
Notwithstanding  this  change,  and  the  damage  done  less  by  time 
than  by  stupidity,  the  hall  stands  to-day  unsurpassed  by  any  structure 
of  the  kind  in  the  countr3^  The  design  is  pure.  No  pains  or  research 
was  spared.  The  capitals  of  the  first  [Ionic]  and  second  [Corinthian] 
orders  are  marvels  of  execution.  .  .  .  The  classic  detail  through- 
out is  admirably  wrought.  .  .  .  The  principal  elevations  were 
undoubtedly  those  of  Inigo  Jones's  design  for  the  palace  at  Whitehall, 
of  which  only  the  Banqueting  House  was  built." 

The  City  Government  has  its  central  administration  in  this  build- 
ing, where  are  the  offices  of  the  Mayor,  President  of  the  Borough  of 
Manhattan,  City  Clerk,  and  some  other  functionaries,  and  the  meet- 
ing rooms  of  the  Council  and  Board  of  Aldermen.  Various  munici- 
pal departments  and  bureaus  have  their  offices  elsewhere,  but 
arrangements  are  making  for  the  construction  of  a  new  city  building 
opposite  the  northeast  corner  of  the  park.  There  is  little  to  be  seen 
inside  the  City  Hall  except  the  historic  objects  and  paintings,  mainly 
on  public  exhibition  in  the  Governor's  Room. 

The  Mayor  s  Office  occupies  the  southeast  corner  of  the  building 
on  the  ground  floor,  and  contains  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the 
city's  works  of  art — the  large  full-length  portrait  of  Lafayette,  painted 
by  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  afterwards  inventor  of  tne  telegraph,  during 
Lafayette's  famous  visit  to  the  United  States  in  1825;  portraits  of 
Mayors  Paulding  and  Allen  by  Morse  are  also  in  this  room,  together 
with  those  of  Fernando  Wood,  Phillip  Hone,  Kingsland,  and  other 
mayors,  by  Vanderlyn,  Elliott,  Inman,  and  other  painters.  The 
picture  of  Washington  and  his  horse,  hanging  in  the  city  clerk's  office, 
is  unsigned,  but  is  believed  to  be  a  poor  specimen  of  Major  John 
Trumbull's  work. 

The  fine  circular  stairways  in  the  rotunda  are  overlooked  by  the 
painted  plaster  original,  presented  in  1834  by  Commodore  Uriah 


88^  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


P.  Levy,  U.  S.  N.,  of  David  d'Angers's  statue  of  Thomas  Jefferson, 
the  bronze  replica  of  which  is  in  the  National  Capitol.  Immediately 
opposite  the  head  of  the  stairway  is  the  entrance  to  the  Governor's 
Room,  a  stately  apartment  stretching  along  the  front  of  the  building, 
intended  and  formerly  used  for  civic  banquets  and  ceremonial  occa- 
sions, and  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  noted  social  incidents  in 
the  early  history  of  the  m-unicipality.  The  old-fashioned  furniture, 
including  relics  from  a  dignified  past,  make  the  room  stately;  and  its 
walls  are  hung  with  full-length  portraits  of  governors  of  the  State  and 
national  heroes,  many  of  which  are  fine  examples  of  American  art. 

The  equestrian  "  Washington  "  here  is  by  John  Trumbull,  after  a 
small  original  (now  in  Baltimore),  and  was  made  in  pursuance  to  a 
resolution  in  1790  by  the  Common  Council,  "  that  the  President  of  the 
United  States  be  requested  to  permit  Mr.  Trumbull  to  take  his 
portrait,  to  be  placed  in  the  City  Hall,  as  a  monument  of  the  respect 
which  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  bear  towards  him."  Trumbull 
assures  us  in  his  Autobiography  that  "  every  part  of  the  detail  of  the 
dress,  horse,  furniture,  etc.,  as  well  as  the  scenery,  w^as  accurately 
copied  from  the  real  objects."  The  full-length  of  Gov.  George 
Clinton,  as  he  appeared  at  Fort  Montgomery,  is  also  by  Trumbull, 
was  painted  in  1791,  and  has  been  pronounced  by  critics  the  best 
example  extant  of  Trumbull's  method.  The  same  painter  did  the 
portrait  of  Alexander  Hamilton  (1804);  the  splendid  picture  of  Gov. 
Morgan  Lewis,  in  his  uniform  as  a  major-general  in  the  war  of  j8i2  ; 
probabl}^  that  of  John  Jay,  and  some  others.  Among  others  of  the 
older  painters  represented  in  this  room,  or  elsewhere  in  the  city's  art 
collection  (scattered  through  the  municipal  offices),  are  John  Vander- 
lyn,  Thomas  Sully,  Henry  Peters  Gray,  George  Catlin  (the  Indian 
painter),  William  Page,  C.  W.  Jarvis,  Thomas  Hicks,  and  Henry 
Inman.  Of  more  recent  artists,  the  best  known  is  Daniel  Hunting- 
ton, a  good  example  of  whose  work  is  the  portrait  of  Governor 
Morgan.  An  interesting  relic  here,  old  and  carefully  painted,  but  of 
unknown  history,  is  the  head  of  Peter  Stuyvesant.  Two  other 
ancient  and  noted  pictures  belonging  to  the  city  are  hung  in  the 
office  of  the  water  register,  in  the  Tract  Society's  building;  these  are, 
a  portrait  of  Hendrik  Hudson,  of  unrecorded  history,  and  one  claimed 
to  be  that  of  Christopher  Columbus,  a  copy  of  a  picture  painted  in 
1459,  when  Columbus  was  23  years  of  age.  The  municipality  owns 
many  other  portraits  of  distinguished  men,  which  are  scattered  about 
various  offices,  and  of  which  no  authentic  catalogue  exists. 

Historic  Objects  in  the  Governor's  Room  include  the  punch -bowl 
presented  to  the  city  by  Gen.  Jacob  Morton  in  1812,  upon  which  are 
printed  views  of  the  commercial  aspect  of  the  city  of  that  day  and 
an  unnecessary  injunction  to  the  corporation  "  to  **  Drink  deep;"  a 
bust  of  De  Witt  Clinton;  battle  flags  of  the  Civil  War;  and  a  desk 
used  by  Washington,  and  other  furniture  brought  from  the  original 
State  House  in  Wall  St. 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY, 


89 


The  Aldermanic  Chamber  is  a  large  room  on  this  iioor  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  building,  which  has  no  ornaments  worth  attention, 
but  which  has  a  public  gallery  whence  the  often  spicy  "  debates  "  of 
the  City  Fathers  may  be  listened  to.  At  the  western  end  is  the 
Chamber  formerly  devoted  to  the  Council^  a  very  handsome  room 
adorned  by  portraits  of  Presidents  Monroe,  Jackson,  and  Taylor,  by 
Vanderlyn,  and  of  Fillmore,  Clay,  and  Jefferson,  by  C.  W,  Jarvis. 

The  County  of  New  York  was  formerly  coextensive  with  the  city, 
but  was  abolished  by  the  charter  of  the  city  in  1897.  Its  offices  and 
courts  were  in  the  Court  House ^  the  marble  building  facing  Cham- 
bers St.,  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  whose  erection  was  the  occa- 
sion of  much  of  '^he  fraud  and  peculation  on  the  part  of  the  ' '  Tweed 
Ring,"  the  investigation  of  which  caused  the  downfall  of  that 
corrupt  coterie  of  politicians  in  1870.  Here  sit  the  various  County 
Courts,  several  parts  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  the  Surrogate's 
Court-    Other  civil  tribunals  have  quarters  elsewhere. 

The  Criminal  Courts  have  now  a  great  building  to  themselves  on 
Center  St.,  connected  with  the  Tombs  Prison  by  an  elevated  and 
inclosed  passageway  spanning  Franklin  St.,  usually  spoken  of  as 
the    Bridge  of  Sighs." 

This  building  is  a  handsome  renaissance  edifice  of  stone,  red 
brick,  and  terra  cotta,  whose  interior  court  is  elaborately  ornamented 
with  carved  marble  and  bronze.  It  contains  not  only  courts,  but  the 
offices  of  the  Streets  Department  and  some  other  bureaus.  Its  inter- 
est to  the  visitor  is  confined,  however,  to  the  mural  paintings  of 
Edward  Simmons,  in  the  room  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Trial  Term, 
Part  I,  in  the  northeast  corner,  on  the  first  floor.  These  are  magni- 
ficent color-drawings  covering  the  wall  behind  the  judicial  bench. 
The  central  one  is  America  offering  justice  to  the  world;  it  is  said 
that  the  countenances  are  those  of  the  artist's  wife  and  children. 
On  the  right  are  the  Three  Fates  —  Clotho  (youth),  on  the  right, 
spins  the  thread  of  life  from  her  distaff;  Lachesis  (middle  age)  twists 
and  measures  it  in  her  hands;  and  aged  Atropos  cuts  it  off  at  death's 
appointed  time.  The  panel  on  the  left  is  devoted  to  three  male 
figures  —  Brotherhood  uniting  Science  to  Freedom.  The  drawing  is 
powerful,  and  the  use  of  color,  especially  the  management  of  the 
white  drapery,  is  exceedingly  strong  and  admirable.  They  were 
made  in  1895,  under  the  direction  of  the  Municipal  Art  Commission, 
which  now  controls  all  matters  relating  to  the  embellishment  of  the 
public  buildings,  the  acceptance  by  the  city  of  statues,  etc. 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


The  Tombs  is  a  nickname  of  the  city  prison,  suggested  long  ago 
by  the  gloomy  architecture,  which  made  it  for  many  years  one  of  the 
landmarks  of  the  city.  In  1898  it  was  rebuilt  into  a  greatly  enlarged 
form,  but  nothing  remains  of  its  picturesque  exterior,  which  was 
perhaps  the  best  example  of  Egyptian  style  in  the  country.  This 
prison  occupies  the  entire  block  bounded  by  Center  St.  on  the 
east.  Elm  St.  on  the  west,  Leonard  St.  on  the  south,  and  Franklin 
St.  on  the  north,  but  its  really  grand  proportions  are  dwarfed  by  its 
situation  in  a  hollow.  The  site  was  formerly  occupied  by  the 
Collect,  a  sheet  of  water  connected  with  the  Hudson  River  by  a  strip 
of  swamp  called  Lispenard's  Meadows  (whence  the  name  of  Lispenard 
St.),  through  which  ran  a  little  rivulet,  afterwards  enlarged  into  a 
barge-canal,  on  aline  with  the  present  Canal  St.,  which  derives  its 
name  from  this  circumstance.  "This  canal,"  says  Lossing,  "was 
spanned  at  the  junction  of  Broadway  and  Canal  St.  by  an  arched 
stone  bridge  which  was  subsequently  buried  when  the  ground  was 
heightened  by  filling  in  and  the  canal  disappeared."  This  filling  in 
was  the  first  public  improvement  undertaken  at  the  close  of  the 
Revolution;  the  City  Hall  was  then  just  rising  and  no  buildings  stood 
between  its  rear  and  the  tanneries  which  bordered  the  swamp,  where 
in  winter  merry  parties  went  skating,  and  where,  a  little  later,  Fulton 
tested  the  models  of  his  steamboat.  The  prison  now  covers  the  site  of 
the  pre-revolutionary  gibbet,  which  was  planted  on  a  small  island,  and 
therefore  stands  upon  ground  long  dedicated  to  the  hangman's  use. 

Internally  the  prison  is  rather  a  series  of  buildings  than  a  single 
structure.  The  cells  rise  in  tiers  one  above  the  other,  with  a  separate 
corridor  for  each  row.  Besides  those  awaiting  trial  in  the  Special 
Sessions  and  Magistrates'  Courts,  persons  accused  or  convicted  of 
the  more  heinous  crimes  are  kept  here  until  they  have  been  tried 
before  the  higher  courts,  or  until  they  depart  for  the  State  Prison. 

Up  Broadway  and  Across  to  Second  Avenue. 

Having  completed  our  sight-seeing  in  and  around  the  City 
Hall,  let  us  now  take  a  car  on  Broadway  and  ride  up  the  central 
part  of  that  great  thoroughfare.  A  short  time  ago  the  buildings 
here  would  have  called  for  little  notice,  much  less,  admiration; 
but  within  two  years  this  part  of  the  famous  street  has  been 
adorned  by  some  of  the  finest  of  the  tall  commercial  structures 
which  are  making  a  towering  new  New  York.    The  magnificent 


A  TOUR  OF  THE  CITY, 


91 


homes  of  the  Postal  Telegraph  and  Home  Insurance  companies, 
together  filling  the  block  between  Murray  and  Warren  Sts..  have 
already  been  spoken  of.  Other  very  notable  ones,  farther  up  the 
street,  are  the  buildings  of  the  Shoe  &  Leather  Bank,  corner  of 
Chambers ;  of  the  Mutual  Reserve  Fund,  corner  of  Duane ;  and 
the  colossal  structure  of  the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Company 
at  Worth  St.  Many,  less  in  size,  are  handsome  bits  of  architecture 
and  a  great  improven'xent,  outside  and  inside,  over  the  past. 

We  traverse  the  wholesale  district  nearly  all  the  way  and  pass  a 
long  line  of  railway  offices  and  miscellaneous  agencies,  as  well  as 
many  retail  stores;  while  here  and  there  a  hotel,  like  the  Broadway 
Central  (the  old  Metropolitan  is  gone)  attracts  attention.  Many 
widely-known  names  will  be  observed  upon  the  signs,  but  a  more 
noticeable  feature  of  this  —  the  dry  goods  and  importing  —  district  is 
the  prevalence  of  foreign  names.  At  East  4th  St.  we  stop  the  car, 
and  getting  off,  walk  to  the  right  (one  block)  into  Lafayette  PL,  a 
spacious  street  extending  from  Great  Jones  (E.  3d)  St.  to  Astor  PI.; 
in  1899  it  was  opened  southward  by  a  new  street,  and  made  contin- 
uous with  the  widened  and  extended  Elm  St.  The  great  brick 
structure  at  the  foot  of  the  Place  is  a  Roman  Catholic  home  for 
street-boys,  called  the  Mission  of  the  Immaculate  Virgin.  It  grew 
out  of  the  unselfish  labors  of  a  priest.  Father  Drumgoole,  whose 
statue,  in  bronze  and  of  heroic  size,  stands  at  the  corner  of  the 
building.    It  is  said  to  contain  a  miraculous  well-spring. 

On  the  next  corner  (E.  4th  St.)  the  De  Vinne  Press  is  conspicuous; 
there  is  where  The  Century  and  St.  Nicholas,  and  the  fine  publica- 
tions of  the  Grolier  Club  are  printed.  Diagonally  opposite  gleams 
the  yellow  and  white  Gothic  Diocesa7i  House  of  the  Episcopal 
Church  ;  and  the  long  line  of  Corinthian  pillars  beyond  it  mark 
Colonnade  Row,  the  early  home  of  the  Astors  and  other  great 
families  of  old  New  York.  This  is  all  that  is  left  of  the  fine  houses 
which  a  few  years  ago  filled  this  quiet  side  street;  but  the  massive 
brick  and  brown  stone  facade  of  the  Astor  Library  still  remains  con- 
spicuous, and  a  moment  should  be  spared  by  the  tourist  to  enter  and 
inspect  its  halls,  its  collection  of  portraits,  of  busts  of  ancient  heroes 
and  sages,  and  the  enormous  amount  of  literature  displayed  in  the 
cases  that  line  its  w^alls. 

This  brings  us  to  the  head  of  the  Place,  where  the  convergence  of 
Astor  PI.  and  8th  St.  forms  an  opening,  where,  not  so  many  years 
ago,  was  the  southern  boundary  fence  of  the  farm  of  Capt.  Richard 


92 


HAATDY  GUILE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Randall,  the  founder  of  the  Sailor's  Snug  Harbor  on  Staten  Islanc 
At  the  time  of  his  death,  in  1801,  the  large  farm  here,  and  his  well 
known  octagonal  house,  were  valued  at  about  $40,000;  this  endow- 
ment was  so  invested  as  now  to  be  worth  about  $15,000,000.  Upon 
the  wedge  between  Astor  PI.  and  8th  St. ,  now  occupied  by  the  tall 
and  handsome  new  structure  of  the  Mercantile  Library,  stood  until 
1890  a  noble  brick  structure  called  Clinton  Hall.  It  was  built  as  a 
theater,  half  a  century  ago;  and  at  its  doors  in  May,  1849,  occurred 
the  Astor  PI.  riot,  precipitated  by  the  rivalry  between  the  Ameri- 
can actor,  Forrest,  and  the  English  actor,  Macready,  which  resulted 
m  a  mobbing  the  latter's  company  and  friends  at  the  close  of  a 
performance.  The  very  ungraceful  statue  in  front  of  Clinton  Hall 
was  erected  by  the  postmen  of  the  city  to  the  Hon.  S.  S.  Sunset ") 
Cox,  as  a  memorial  of  his  championship  of  their  claims  before  Con- 
gress; but,  unhappily,  their  gratitude  was  not  accompanied  by 
artistic  judgment.  Many  electric  cars  start  in  Astor  Place  for  the 
Fourth  Avenue  and  Second  Avenue  lines. 

Let  us  now  turn  to  the  right  and  walk  eastward  toward  Second 
Av.  Fourth  Av.  is  at  once  encountered,  looking  down  which  to  the 
right  the  upper  end  of  the  Bowery  is  seen.  On  the  point  of  land 
opposite,  between  the  divergence  of  Fourth  and  Third  Avs.  from 
the  Bowery,  is  the  pile  of  brown  stone  sheltering  the  schools  and 
reading  rooms  of  the  Cooper  Union,  for  which  a  moment  may  be 
spared  (see  p.  183).  In  front  of  this  building,  facing  down  the  Bow- 
ery, stands  a  bronze  sitting  monument  to  Peter  Cooper,  modeled  by 
Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  and  erected  in  1897.  Opposite  the  rear  of  the 
Union  is  the  Bible  House  (see  p.  173). 

Continuing  along  8th  St.,  we  cross  Third  Av.  underneath  its 
elevated  railway  (9th  St.  station)  and  walk  on  past  the  short  Stuyve- 
sant  PI.,  which  takes  its  name  from  that  old  Knickerbocker,  the 
last  of  the  Dutch  governors.  He  owned  the  lands  hereabout,  lived 
in  a  big  stone  farmhouse  on  the  Bowery,  and  was  buried  in  167 1 
at  his  chapel,  just  beyond,  upon  the  site  of  which  now  stands  St. 
Mark's  Church  (elsewhere  described)  within  a  green  plat  at  the 
corner  of  8th  St.  and  Second  Av.  The  large  modern  church  beyond, 
facing  us  across  the  street  as  we  come  to  Second  Av.,  is  the  Baptist 
Tabernacle,  whose  latest  pastor  was  the  pugnacious  Dr.  Potter. 


94  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Stuyvesani  Square  and  Gramercy  Park. 

We  now  turn  up  Second  Av.  and  find  ourselves  in  a  handsome 
thoroughfare,  the  houses  along  which  (in  this  part)  are  almost 
wholly  occupied  by  wealthy  and  influential  Germans.  On  the  corner 
of  nth  St.  the  building  of  the  N.  Y.  Historical  Society  will  be 
noticed,  and  two  blocks  further  the  N.  Y,  Eye  a7id  Ear  Infirmary. 
At  the  left-hand  corner  of  14th  St.  stands  the  old  Fourteenth  Street 
Presbyterian  Church.  The  house  of  ex-Senator  William  M.  Evarts 
is  at  No.  231,  on  the  opposite  corner;  and  at  15th  St.,  we  find  the 
beautiful  Stuyvesant  Square,  occupying  the  space  of  four  blocks, 
filled  with  fine  old  trees,  and  surrounded  by  elegant  residences. 
This  was  a  part  of  the  Stuyvesant  property,  and  its  west  side  is 
bounded  by  Rutherford  PI.,  keeping  the  name  of  another  old 
family,  whose  descendants  dwell  near  by.  The  double-towered 
church  overlooking  the  square  is  St.  George's  (Prot.  Epis.)  which  is 
said  to  have  the  largest  seating  capacity  of  any  church  in  the  city 
except  the  R.  C.  Cathedral.  Beside  it  are  the  Rutherfold  PI. 
Eriends'  Meeting  House  and  school  (Quaker)  —  plain  brick  structures 
without  steeples  or  ornament.  On  this  square  remain  many  old 
New  York  families  —  the  Fishs,  Stuyvesants,  De  Voes,  Rutherfords, 
and  others.    It  is  a  charming  dwelling  place. 

Above  Stuyvesant  Sq.  Second  Av.  grows  more  business-like; 
and  leaving  it  we  turn  eastward  and  walk  through  E.  20th  St., 
which  in  this  block  is  mainly  given  up  to  private  stables.  We  re-cross 
Third  Av.  under  its  "  L  "  road,  and  presently  come  to  the  fashion- 
able seclusion  of  Gramercy  Park. 

^Gramercy  Park,  whose  name  commemorates  the  old  Gramercy 
farm,  is  the  property  of  the  owners  of  the  surrounding  property,  and 
its  privileges  go  with  their  title-deeds.  Its  gates  are  opened  only  by 
these  proprietors,  and  its  pleasant  walks  are  reserved  for  the  nurses 
and  children  of  the  neighboring  families.  Here  dwells  an  aristocratic 
colony  of  old  and  wealthy  families,  who  have  thus  far  withstood  the 
advance  of  the  commercial  tide  northward,  among  whom  are  many 
well-known  persons.  On  this  20th  St.  side,  at  Nos.  11 6-1 18  was  the 
home  of  the  late  Governor  Samuel  J.  Tilden,  a  palace  among  palaces. 
Next  to  it,  at  No.  120,  is  the  club-house  of  T/ie  Players,  described 
under  Clubs.  Other  residences  are  those  of  the  late  Cyrus  W. 
Field,  to  whom  we  owe  the  Atlantic  cables,  and  of  the  late  David 
Dudley  Field,  the  eminent  jurist;  of  Mrs.  Courtlandt  Palmer,  at 
whose  house,  during  the  life  of  her  husband,  the  Nineteenth  Cen- 
tury Club  was  wont  to  meet;  of  John  Bigelow,  Abram  Hewitt,  and 
the  Coopers;  of  V/illiam  Stein  way,  of  piano  fame,  Nicholas  Fish, 


96 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Brander  Mathews,  the  dramatist,  Joseph  Howard,  of  newspaper 
repute,  and  many  professional  men.  Irving  PI.  abuts  upon  the 
south  side  of  the  Square,  and  is  continued  northward  from  it  to 
Harlem  as  Lexington  Av. 

Union  Square  and  Central  Broadway. 

Let  us  walk  on  through  E.  20th  St.,  as  far  as  Fourth  Av.  On  this 
corner  stands  the  red-and-white  Church  of  All  Souls,  where  Doctor 
Bellows  used  to  preach,  and  at  i8th  St.  the  immense  Florence  —  the 
largest  of  the  down-town  apartment  houses,  and  one  of  the  most 
elegant.    One  block  more  and  we  reach 

Union  Square.— We  enter  it  at  its  quietest  (northeast)  corner, 
where  E.  17th  St.  crosses  Foiirth  Av.  The  Everett  House  is  on  our 
right,  and  the  Clarendon  Hotel  on  the  left.  The  Westminster  is  one 
block  east,  corner  of  i6th  St.  and  Irving  PI.  A  broad  paved  space, 
called  The  Plaza,  borders  this  northern  side,  and  may  be  illuminated 
at  night  by  the  picturesque  row  of  lamps  along  the  curbing.  Here 
military  parades  and  out-door  meetings,  especially  those  called  by 
labor  agitators,  often  occur,  and  in  summer  a  flower  market  is  held 
here  every  morning  from  5  to  8  o'clock.  Overlooking  this  plaza  are 
the  windows  of  The  Century  and  St.  Nicholas  editorial  rooms.  The 
Square  itself  is  an  oval  park  of  three  acres  or  so,  shaded  by  large 
trees  and  ornamented  by  a  handsome  fountain  and  statues.  On 
the  Fourth  Av.  side  are  a  row  of  hotels,  restaurants,  and  shops. 
South  of  the  Square  runs  the  busy  line  of  14th  St. —  where  Keitli's 
Theater  and  several  fine  shops  are  conspicuous.  Here,  in  the 
midst  of  a  paved  space,  stands  the  fine  equestrian  statue  of  George 
Washington.  It  is  of  heroic  size,  was  modeled  by  Mr.  H.  K. 
Browne,  and  originally  stood  on  the  ground  now  covered  by  the 
Cooper  Union. 

Straight  against  the  southern  end  of  the  square  breaks  the  whole 
traffic-current  of  Broadway,  to  swerve  to  the  west  of  it  ("  Dead  Man's 
Curve  ")  and  sweep  along  its  farther  side,  where  14th  St.  adds  its 
quota.  Here,  where  the  crowd  is  densest,  has  been  placed  H.  K. 
Browne's  bronze  statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  seated  in  the  chair 
of  state  with  the  emancipation  proclamation  in  his  hand.  It  was 
erected  by  popular  subscription  soon  after  Lincoln's  assassination. 
Facing  down  Broadway  stands  the  life-size  figure  of  Lafayette, 
which  was  designed  by  Bartholdi,  the  sculptor  of  the  Liberty  statue 
in  the  harbor  and  erected  in  1876. 


93 


RESIDENCES,  CLUBS,  HOTELS,  etc.,  on  Fifth  Avenue,  starting  from  Eighth  Street. 

West  Side.  Street.     No.  East  Side. 

Hotel  Lafayette— Brevoort. 
Hotel  Giosvenor. 


Street 

8 
10 
11 
15 
16 
18 
SO 
SO 
2K 
84 
84 
25 
26 
27 
29 
80 
88 

84 

85 

87 
80 

42 
48 
44 


46 
47 
48 

49 

50 
50 

51 
52 
52 


58 
59 


61 

62 

63 
64 


Church  of  the  Ascension. 
First  Presbyterian. 
The  New  York  Hospital. 
Judge  Building. 
Chi(;kering  Hall. 
Methodist  Book  Concern. 
Presbyterian  Building. 
Fifth  Avenue  Hotel. 
Albemarle  Hotel. 
Hoffman  House. 
Worth  Monument. 
Martin's. 
Victoria  Hotel. 
Marble  Collegiate  Church. 
Holland  House. 
Hotel  Cambridge. 
Waldorf-Astoria. 
Knickerbocker  Trust. 
New  York  Club. 
Engineers'  Club. 
Brick  Church. 

New  York  Library. 
Hotel  Renaissance. 
Sherry's. 


558  Lotos  Club. 

Collegiate  Reformed. 
608  Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  Jr. 


034 
640 
64'2 
660 
670 


680 
54  684 
54 


57 
57 


William  Ziegler 
Russell  Sage. 
D.  O.  Mills. 
George  Vanderbilt. 
William  D.  Sloane. 
William  K.  Vanderbilt. 
Frederick  Gallatin. 
St.  Tliomas's  Church. 

Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb. 

H.  McK.  Twombley. 

University  Club. 

J.  D.  Rockefeller— 13  W.  54th  St. 

f"'ifth  Av.  Presbyterian  Church. 
Edwin  Gould. 
Harry  Payne  Whitney. 
Mi's.  C.  Vanderbilt. 

Plaza  Hotel. 
Scholars'  Gate  of  Park. 


Hotel  Kensington. 
Constable  Building. 

Seward  Statue. 

Madison  Square, 

Farragut  Statue. 

Hotel  Brunswick  (Bidg.). 

Calumet  Club. 


Tiffany  Building. 

Union  League  Club. 

Grand  Central  Station. 

Temple  Emanu-El. 

Delmonico's. 

Lorraine  Apartments. 
549  Gen.  Thos.  T.  Eckert. 
551  Church  of  the  Heavenly  Rest. 

Windsor  Arcade. 
579  Miss  Helen  Gould. 
593  Robert  Goelet. 
597   M)  s.  Roswell  P.  Flower. 
611   The  Belgravia. 
617   Democratic  Club. 

The  Buckingham. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral. 

Union  Club. 


673  Jas.  T.  Pyle. 

677   O.  H.  P.  Belmont. 

681   Ex-Gov.  Levi  P.  Morton. 

689  Wm.  Rockefellei-. 
693  Mrs.  Calvin  S.  Brice. 
Hotel  St.  Regis. 


Mrs.  C.  P.  Huntington. 
Herman  Oelrichs. 
745  Wm.  E.  Iselin. 
Hotel  Savoy. 
Hotel  Netherland. 


RESIDENCES,  etc.,  above  Fifty-ninth  Street,  facing  Central  Park. 

street. 

68 


67 


804 
805 
807 
817 


824 

825 
826 
827 
829 
830 
834 
836 
838 
840 
842 
846 

852 
853 

m 


Van  Norden  Trust  Co. 
Metropolitan  Club. 
Elbridge  T.  Gerry. 
W.  E.  Roosevelt. 
W.  L.  Bull. 
Mrs.  W.  E.  Schmid. 
Clarence  Postley. 
James  B.  Haggin. 
Howard  Gould. 
Mrs.  J.  P.  Kernochan, 
Wm.  V.  Brokaw. 
H.  Bramhall  Gilbert. 
E.  J.  Berwynd. 
George  Crocker. 
H.  Knickerbocker. 
Frank  Jay  Gould. 
Isidor  Wormser,  Sr. 
W.  Watts  Sherman. 
Col.  John  Jacob  Astor. 
Mrs.  William  Astor. 
Dr.  Andrew  J  White. 
Henry  O.  Havemeyer, 
Col.  Oliver  H.  Payne. 
George  Kidd. 
H.  O.  Armour. 


72 
74 
76 
77 

78 


79 
82 
85 
86 
89 
90 


858 
864 
871 
874 
879 
880 
881 


908 

927 


1045 
1055 


Isaac  Stern. 
Charles  T.  Yerkes. 
Miss  Whitney. 
Mrs.  John  H.  Inman. 
Ogden  Mills. 
Mrs.  Davis  Dows. 
Heber  Bishop. 
John  T.  Sloane. 
Mrs.  Martha  T.  Fiske. 
Lenox  Library. 
James  A.  Burden. 
Pickhardt  House. 
Temple  Beth-El. 
James  D.  Laving. 
Senator  W.  A.  Clark. 
R.  A.  Robbins. 
C.  F.  Dietrich. 
Geo.  H.  Butler. 
H.  H.  Cook. 
Isaac  V.  Brokaw. 
Art  Museum. 
R.  Starr  Dana. 
Gen.  C.  H.  T.  Collis. 
Dr.  J.  J.  Lawrence. 
Andrew  Carnegi§. 


ioo  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


THE  RIVERS  AND  HARBOR. 

No  GREAT  city  in  the  world  is  so  grandly  situated  with  reference  to 
the  sea  and  navigable  rivers  as  is  New  York.  Other  cities  and  sea- 
ports have  beautiful,  hill-girt  harbors,  as  Yokohama  and  Rio  Janeiro; 
other  cities  stand  at  the  mouth  of  broad  rivers,  as  New  Orleans,  Alex- 
andria, and  Shanghai  ;  other  cities  spread,  like  Constantinople,  along 
the  curving  shores  of  a  strait,  protected  from  the  fury  of  the  outer 
gales  ;  but  only  New  York  combines  all  these  advantages  in  her  in- 
sular site,  under  a  beauty  of  landscape  arrangement  all  her  own  and 
the  admiration  of  the  world. 

The  horizon  seen  from  her  roofs  is  the  blue  Atlantic,  The  harbor, 
pleasingly  irregular  in  outline,  studded  with  islands,  girt  by  low  hills, 
and  encompassed  by  cities  and  villages  that  glow  brightly  in  the  sun- 
shine, and  at  night  form  a  galaxy  of  brilliants,  lacks  only  the  snows 
of  Fujiyama,  or  the  broken  towers  of  the  Organ  Mts.,  to  surpass 
Rio  or  Yokohama.  The  East  River  is  an  American  Bosphorus,  lead- 
ing from  the  sea  to  Long  Island  Sound;  and  the  Hudson  River  (in 
connection  with  the  Erie  Canal)  forms  the  water  highway  for  a  com- 
merce geographically  as  extensive  as  that  of  the  Mississippi,  the 
Hoang-Ho,  or  the  Volga.  It  would  be  possible  to  embark  in  a  canoe 
at  the  Battery,  and  never  leaving  it,  save  for  an  occasional  short 
"carry,"  to  float  to  the  borders  of  Alaska. 

Three  grand  divisions  of  this  chapter  present  themselves  —  The 
Hudson  or  North  River,  the  East  River,  and  the  Harbor. 

The  North  River  Water-front.—  The  available  water-front  of  New 


THE  RIVERS  AND  HARBOR. 


101 


-  SUPS' 


I  --View  iroin  Noith  River, 

York  on  the  Hudson  is  said  to  be  no  less  than  13  miles  ;  at  present, 
however,  there  is  little  commerce,  and  only  an  occasional  temporary 
wharf,  above  23d  St.  The  water-front  (nominally  Twelfth  Av.)  above 
that  is  mostly  given  over  to  lumber  and  stone  yards,  factories,  etc., 
which  receive  and  discharge  their  heavy  materials  either  from  vessels 
or  from  the  cars  of  the  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  whose  line  passes  along 
the  water's  edge  from  Spuyten  Duyvil  to  30th  St.  Washington 
Heights  and  Manhattanville  occupy  the  elevated  shore  with  pleasant 
residences  down  to  the  Ft.  Lee  ferry.  Between  128th  and  72d  St., 
Riverside  Park  and  Drive  beautify  the  bank.  At  42d  and  34th  are 
ferry  and  steamboat  landings,  and  a  few  irregular  piers  are  scattered 
along,  broken  again  by  the  23d  St.  ferry-landing,  near  which^  many 
steamboats  touch  or  depart,  and  a  few  of  the  ocean  steamships  have 
their  docks.   This  region  is  known  in  police  circles  as  Hell's  Kitchen. 

Ocean  Steamers. —  The  scenes  daily  enacted  at  one  or  another 
pier  when  the  great  ocean  steamships  are  about  to  sail  (Saturday  is 
the  special  day)  are  well  worth  the  attention  of  a  visitor  from  the 
interior,  to  whom  anything  connected  with  the  sea  is  interesting. 
The  wharf  and  the  ship  are  thronged  with  passengers  and  their 
friends,  floral  offerings  from  those  who  stay  behind  load  the  cabin 
tables,  baggage  is  being  stored  with  much  noise,  the  roar  of  escap- 
ing steam  adds  to  the  uproar,  carriages  are  constantly  arriving  and 
departing,  peddlers  shout  their  wares,  and  all  is  hurry-skurry  until 
the  gang-plank  is  drawn  in  and  the  steamer  swings  slowly  out  into 
the  stream,  amid  cheers  from  the  assembled  crowd,  and  answering 
shouts  from  the  passengers. 

It  is  well  worth  while  to  pay  a  visit  to  one  of  the  '*  ocean  racers." 
The  greatest  luxury  in  the  fitting  and  furnishing  is  the  rule  on  the 
steamers  of  the  great  lines.  The  table  is  supplied  with  every  deli- 
cacy. There  are  superb  smoking,  card,  and  retiring  rooms,  electric 
bells  with  which  to  summon  well-trained  waiters,  and  the  electric 


103 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


light  is  now  in  common  use.  The  transatlantic  steamers  have  flush 
aecks  with  these  accommodations  below,  but  the  coavStwise  steamers 
as  a  rule  have  cabins  on  deck,  and  are  between  a  steamship  and 
a  river  steamboat  in  appearance. 

From  Canal  St.  down  to  Cortlandt,  the  water-front  is  largely- 
devoted  to  domestic  transportation  and  freight  lines,  and  the  ware- 
houses and  sheds  are  monopolized  by  the  produce  and  supply  trade 
of  the  city.  Flour,  meal,  butter,  eggs,  cheese,  meats,  poultry,  fish, 
and  fruit,  are  poured  into  this  lap  of  distributive  commerce"  by- 
New  Jersey  and  the  counties  lying  along  the  Hudson  River,  to  be 
sold  and  re-sold  in  Washington  Market  (q.  v.).  The  piers  are  all 
numbered,  Pier  One  being  a  noble  stone  structure,  covered  with  a 
great  iron  shed,  close  by  the  Battery,  which  is  reserved  by  the  city  for 
public  uses,  and  becomes  in  summer  a  public  pleasure  resort.  The 
front  street  here  is  West  St.  It  is  filled  for  the  most  part  with  old  and 
mean  buildings,  devoted  to  drinking  saloons,  eating  houses,  ship 
chandleries,  and  small  clothing  and  provision  stores,  with  many 
tenements  in  the  upper  part.  The  Belt  Line  of  surface  cars  runs 
along  the  water-front  from  the  Battery  to  59th  St.,  and  from  them 
can  be  seen  all  that  one  would  ordinarily  desire  of  this  waterside. 


THE  AQUARIUM-Fprmerly  Castle  Garden. 


THE  ATVEkS  AND  HARBOR,  103 

\ 


FORT  WADSWORTH,  bTATEN  ISLAND. 


A  Trip  Down  the  Bay. 

New  York  Bay  is  roughly  lozenge-shaped,  stretching  into  the  Hud- 
son and  East  rivers  at  its  northern  end,  and  reaching  its  southern 
point  out  through  the  Narrows  into  the  Lower  Bay,  which  is  a  broad 
indentation  from  the  Atlantic,  protected  by  Sandy  Hook  and  the  Bar, 
which  form  a  north-and -south  barrier  stretching  from  New  Jersey  to 
Long  Island.  The  mass  of  Staten  Island,  reaching  to  within  a  mile  of 
Long  Island  at  the  Narrows,  divides  the  Lower  from  the  Upper  Bay, 
the  latter  of  which  is  the  Harbor,  properly  speaking.  South  of  Staten 
Island  is  Raritan  Bay,  and  between  it  and  the  New  Jersey  mainland 
winds  the  narrow  tide-channel  called  Staten  Island  Sound,  or  the 
Arthur  Kills.    A  glance  at  the  map  will  make  this  plain. 

Tour  of  the  Harbor. —  Emerging  from  either  river  into  the  harbor, 
the  Battery,  and  Governor's  Island  are  quickly  left  behind,  and  the 
massive  commercial  and  office  buildings  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city 
group  themselves  into  a  magnificent  mountain  of  stately  archi- 
tecture, supporting  banners  of  sun -gilded  steam  and  smoke,  and 


104 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


bristling  with  gables,  turrets,  and  flagstaffs.    At  the  right,  as  you 

gaze  stern  ward,  the  breadth  of  East  River,  the  delicately  arched 
line  of  the  graceful  suspension  bridge,  and  the  looming  heights  of 
Brooklyn  extend  the  picture  grandly  in  that  direction,  while  at  the 
left  are  the  broad  level  of  the  Hudson  and  the  tall  elevators  and 
green  background  of  Jersey  City,  far  enough  away  to  take  on  an 
ideal  beauty.  The  focal  and  foreground  point  of  the  splendid  scene 
is  the  Battery  —  green  with  trees  and  lawns  —  marked  by  the  quaint 
structure  of  Castle  Garden,  and  fringed  with  white,  where  the  gentle 
surf  breaks  against  its  curving  sea-wall. 

The  Battery  (as  before  this  the  reader  will  have  ascertained)  is  the 
name  applied  to  the  triangular  park  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
city.  Originally  Manhattan  Island  was  rounded  at  the  end  and  bor- 
dered with  rocks,  hardly  covered  at  high  tide.  Upon  the  outermost 
of  these  a  fortification,  in  the  form  of  a  water-battery,  was  built  very 
early  in  the  history  of  the  city,  and  rebuilt,,  but  not  much  used  at  the 
time  of  the  Revolution.  This  accounts  for  the  name.  Among  the 
defenses  projected  at  the  close  of  the  last  century  was  anew  fort  here, 
upon  the  outermost  rocks.  It  was  completed  in  1805,  and  was  named 
Fort  Clinton,  after  Gov.  DeWitt  Clinton.  This  is  the  structure  since 
modified  into  Castle  Garden. 

As  originally  built  the  fort  was  separated  from  the  mainland  of 
Manhattan  Island  by  a  strip  of  water  which  was  bridged  by  a  draw, 
and  which  was  filled  in  later.  It  was  a  circular  building  of  solid 
stone  masonry,  with  walls  in  some  places  thirty  feet  thick,  and  was 
provided  with  barbette  and  casemate  guns.  It  was  liberally  armed 
and  garrisoned  by  the  Government,  and  was  considered  by  military 
men  one  of  the  best  forts  in  the  country.  During  the  second  war  with 
England  Fort  Clinton  was  the  center  of  a  great  deal  of  activity  on 
the  part  of  the  citizens  of  this  town.  In  18 14,  the  probability  of  a 
naval  attack  presented  itself,  and  early  in  the  spring  the  Common 
Council  called  a  mass  meeting  of  citizens  to  consider  the  situation. 
The  citizens  pledged  themselves  to  rally  for  the  defense  of  the  city. 
Enlisting  stations  were  at  once  opened,  and  companies  and  regiments 
were  rapidly  formed,  and  drilled  opposite  Ft.  Clinton,  which  was 
much  strengthened  at  the  same  time  by  gangs  of  citizens  working 
with  trowel  and  spade.  The  intense  excitement  of  the  times,  center- 
ing at  the  Battery,  spread  in  all  directions  about  the  port,  and  works 
were  thrown  up  on  Brooklyn  Heights,  Ellis  Island,  Bedloe's  Island, 
and  Staten  Island,  largely  by  volunteer  labor  of  citizens.  Forts  were 
built  all  around  the  Lower  Bay  and  along  the  shores  of  the  East 
River  and  McGowan's  Pass,  and  other  strategic  points  were  covered 
by  a  chain  of  forts  protecting  the  city  on  the  north.  For  this  mas- 
ter, consult  Journal  U.  S.  Artillery.  IX,  March-April,  1898. 


THE  RIVERS  AND  HARBOR, 


105 


After  the  war  Ft.  Clinton  was  kept  in  good  military  shape  for  a 
few  years  only,  because  the  defenses  of  other  approaches  to  the  city 
had  made  it  practically  useless.  It  was  deeded  to  the  State  in  1822. 
Then  began  its  civil  existence,  which  is  more  interesting  than  its  mil- 
itary career.  From  1824,  when  Lafayette  landed  there  on  his  visit 
to  this  country,  until  1853,  w^hen  theatrical  representations  of  a  rather 
cheap  sort  were  produced  there,  the  fort  was  a  popular  resort. 

In  1847  Castle  Garden  was  remodeled  inside,  shut  in  with  a  high 
roof,  and  fitted  up  as  a  luxurious  place  of  amusement.  The  Havana 
Opera  Company,  the  leading  opera  organization  of  the  period, 
appeared  there,  and  many  fine  plays  were  given.  Then  followed  the 
wonderful  introduction  of  Jenny  Lind  by  P.  T.  Barnum,  when  the 
town  went  wild  over  the  Swedish  diva.  In  1855  Castle  Garden 
became  the  State  immigrant  depot,  and  nearly  ten  millions  of  immi- 
grants passed  through  its  halls. 

In  1 89 1,  however,  the  United  States 
took  charge  of  immigration,  aban- 
doned Castle  Garden,  and  established 
a  new  depot  upon  Ellis  Island.  This 
is  a  small  Island  between  the  Liberty 
Statue  and  the  Communipaw  shore, 
which  has  been  almost  covered  with 
a  fine  range  of  buildings.  Hither  all 
steerage  passengers 
are  transferred  from 
the  steamers  in  which 
they  arrive ,  and  before 
they  can  land  must  be 
examined  as  to  their 
eligibility  as  citizens, 
and  be  fully  recorded. 
If  they  are  bound  to 
some  interior  point, 
they  are  put  into 
charge  of  railway  or 
steamship  agents,  and 
by  them  conducted  to  the  trains  or  steamers.  The  Government 
never  loses  sight  of,  nor  ceases  to  protect,  the  immigrant  until  he  is 
prepared  to  face  the  new  life.  A  ferry-boat  (free)  runs  between  the 
Battery  and  the  island  every  forty  minutes  during  working  hours. 


THE  BARGE  OFFICE. 


106         HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


The  Battery  Park  contains  twenty-one  acres,  is  shaded  by  large 
trees,  and  provided  with  a  broad  walk  along  the  sea-wall  and  with  a 
great  number  of  seats,  always  crowded  with  quaint  immigrants  and 
loungers.  At  the  eastern  end  of  the  sea-wall  stands  the  Revenue 
Barge  Office,  a  branch  of  the  Custom  House,  surmounted  by  a 
tower  90  ft.  high,  and  beyond  that  the  group  of  ferries  to  Brooklyn 
and  Staten  Island  known  collectively  as  South  Ferry.  In  1893  the 
Battery  was  adorned  by  a  bronze  statue  of  John  Ericsson,  the  great 
engineer,  which  stands  near  the  Barge  Office.  It  was  erected  by  the 
city,  was  designed  by  J.  S.  Hartley,  and  the  granite  pedestal  bears 
panels  in  low  relief  commemorating  the  deeds  of  the  "  Monitor.'* 

The  Aquarium. —  Castle  Garden  has  been  restored  externally,  and 
refitted  by  the  city  (Park  Department)  as  an  aquarium,  open  freely, 
each  day  to  the  public.  It  is  in  charge  of  city  officials,  and  will 
repay  inspection.  The  floor  of  the  old  fort  is  occupied  by  large  open 
tanks  for  large  fishes,  seals,  great  turtles,  etc.;  and  the  walls  are 
encircled  by  glass-fronted  wall  tanks  containing  an  extensive  display 
of  the  fishes  of  our  waters,  both  salt  and  fresh.  The  circular  gallery 
above  them  is  occupied  by  tanks  in  which  are  living,  amid  fixed 
aquatic  grov^ths,  a  rich  collection  of  small  corals,  anemones,  mollusks, 
crustaceans,  and  other  creatures  of  great  interest  and  beauty. 
Everything  is  fully  labeled.  Admittance  10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.,  daily. 

The  Liberty  Statue. 

Bartholdi's  Statue  of  Liberty  stands  upon  Bedloe's  Island,  1%  miles 
southwest  of  the  Battery  and  on  the  western  edge  of  the  path  of  com- 
merce. Its  base  is  surrounded  by  the  double,  star-shaped  walls  and 
salients  of  old  Fort  Wood,  which  partly  hide  the  pedestal,  but  lend 
dignity  to  the  noble  figure.  This  colossal  figure,  the  largest  statue 
of  modern  times,  is  made  of  hammered  plates  of  copper,  is  151  ft.  in 
height  and  stands  upon  a  pedestal  155  ft.  high. 

Augusts  Bartholdi  was  a  French  sculptor,  already  known  to  Amer- 
icans by  his  statue  of  Lafayette  in  Union  Sq. ,  and  by  other  works.  He 
was  impressed  during  a  voyage  to  the  United  States  by  the  eager- 
ness with  which  the  immigrants  crowded  the  decks  for  a  first  glimpse 
of  the  new  land  to  which  they  were  coming  with  such  hope  and  con- 
fidence, and  the  thought  came  to  him,  as  Mr.  Charles  Barnard  has 
well  written  it;  ^'  What  a  joy  and  encouragement  it  would  be  to  these 
people  if  they  could  see  something  to  welcome  them,  to  remind  them 
that  this  is  a  republic.   What  if  there  stood,  like  a  great  guardian,  at 


THE  ktVEkS  AND  HAkWlZ, 


107 


the  entrance  of  the  continent,  a  colossal  statue  —  a  grand  figure  of  a 
woman  holding  aloft  a  torch,  and  symbolizing  Liberty  Enlightening 
the  World !  "  When  he  went  home  he  proposed  that  a  popular  sub- 
scription should  be  opened  in  France  to  present  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States  such  a  statue.  The  idea  took  the  fancy  of  the  French. 
More  than  $200,000  was  collected,  and  in  1879  Mr.  Bartholdi  began 
work  upon  the  statue,  the  sketch  of  which  had  been  approved  by 
critics  and  people  alike.  The  process  of  building  this  colossal  figure 
was  most  interesting,  and  was  graphically  detailed  by  Mr.  C.  Barnard 
in  St.  Nicholas  for  July,  1884,  quoted  below: 

Structure  of  the  Statue. — A  monolith  so  enormous  as  this  was 
designed  to  be,  could  never  be  transported  or  erected;  and  if  built  up 
in  courses  it  would  crumble  and  become  unsightly.  Bartholdi  remem- 
bered the  statue  erected  centuries  ago  by  "II  Cerano  "  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Maggiore,  which  was  made  of  copper,  in  thin  sheets,  ham- 
mered into  shape  and  laid  upon  a  frame  of  stone,  iron,  and  wood;  and 
he  decided  that  his  statue  must  follow  the  same  method.  A  begin- 
ning was  made  by  executing  a  model  in  plaster  just  one-sixteenth  the 
size  of  the  intended  statue.  Next  another  model  four  times  as  large 
was  constructed,  and  carefully  studied  and  worked  over  to  make  it  as 
perfect  as  possible.  This  quarter-size  model  being  finished,  the  task 
followed  of  making  the  full-sized  model  in  plaster.  But  this  had  to 
be  cast  in  sections,  and  these  fitted  together.  To  mold  these  full- 
sized  copies  of  the  quarter-sized  model,  which  had  been  cut  into 
suitable  pieces,  was  a  work  of  great  ingenuity.  Their  weight  required 
a  support,  and  a  framework  of  laths  was  first  erected  over  which  the 
plaster  was  roughly  spread,  and  then  was  chiseied  and  smoothed  by 
skillful  workmen  into  an  exact  similitude  of  the  smaller  model. 

These  sections  in  plaster  completed,  came  the  work  of  making 
wooden  molds  that  should  be  exact  copies  both  in  size  and  modeling 
of  the  plaster.  "  It  was  a  long,  tedious,  and  difficult  piece  of  work; 
but  there  are  few  workmen  who  could  do  it  better  than  these  French 
carpenters.  Each  piece  was  a  model  of  a  part  of  the  statue,  exactly 
fitting  every  projection,  depression,  and  curve  of  that  portion  of  the 
figure  or  drapery.  Into  these  wooden  molds  sheets  of  metal  were 
laid,  and  pressed  or  beaten  down  until  they  fitted  the  irregular  sur- 
faces of  the  molds.  All  the  repoussd,  or  hammered  work,  was  done 
from  the  back,  or  inside  of  the  sheet  [which  varied  from  one  to  three 

yards  square]  In  this  complicated  manner,  by  making 

first  a  sketch,  then  a  quarter-size  model,  then  a  full-sized  model  in 
sections,  then  hundreds  of  wooden  copies,  and  lastly  by  beating  into 
shape  300  sheets  of  copper,  the  enormous  statue  was  finished.  These 
300  bent  and  hammered  plates,  weighing  in  all  eighty-eight  tons, 
form  the  outside  of  the  statue  They  are  very  thin,  and  while  they 
fit  each  other  perfectly,  it  is  quite  plain  that  if  they  were  put  together 
in  their  proper  order  they  would  never  stand  alone;  ....  there 
must  be  also  a  skeleton,  a  bony  structure  inside,  to  hold  it  together. 


VII. 


A  RAMBLE  AT  NIGHT. 

Some  suggestions  as  to  a  good  route  for  a  nocturnal  ramble,  and 
the  sort  of  thing  a  person  may  expect  to  see,  may  be  useful.  If  you 
are  in  search  of  evil,  in  order  to  take  part  in  it — don't  look  here  for 
guidance.  This  book  merely  proposes  to  give  some  hints  as  how  the 
dark,  crowded,  hard-working,  and  sometimes  criminal  portions  of  the 
city  look  at  night. 

Supposing  that  you  start  from  an  uptown  hotel,  say  at  9  o'clock, 
a  good  plan  would  be  to  take  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.  to  Bleecker  St. 
station.  This  is  a  shady  corner,  in  more  senses  than  one.  The  junc- 
tion of  Bleecker  and  South  Fifth  Av.  is  quite  roofed  over  by  the 
elevated  station  and  tracks,  and  the  latter  street  is  one  of  the  most 
poorly  lighted  in  town;  moreover  the  locality  is  largely  inhabited  by 
negroes,  mainly  of  a  very  low  class,  becoming  still  more  low  and 
vicious  as  you  go  down  Sullivan  and  Thompson  Sts., below  Bleecker; 
and  a  large  proportion  of  the  white  residents,  American,  Italian, 
French,  and  Irish,  are  fond  of  shady  places  and  shady  ways. 
Wander  about  these  gloomy  blocks  a  bit,  if  you  like,  but  keep  your 
eyes  open  —  not  so  wide,  however,  as  would  be  advisable  four  or  five 
'Tiours  later.  East  of  South  Fifth  Av.,  Bleecker  St.  is  brighter,  and 
chere  are  several  queer  little  French  and  Italian  restaurants.  Fifty 
years  ago  this  street  was  the  height  of  fashion,  and  the  doorplates  of 
the  fine  old  houses,  many  of  which  yet  remain  in  melancholy  dirt  and 
ruin,  bore  names  now  counted  I  ^gh  up  on  Fifth  or  Madison  avenues. 
But  great  business  houses  are  ug  year  by  year  on  their  sites,  and 
even  the  devil  is  being  ousted  from  all  this  evil  part  of  town  by  com- 
merce and  manufactures.  The  huge  and  handsome  Mills  Hotel  No. 
I  stands  here.  Wooster  and  Green  Sts. ,  next  east  of  South  Fifth 
Av.,  which  twenty  years  ago  were  infamous,  are  now  walled  in  by 
huge  factories  and  commercial  buildings. 

Two  blocks  further  on  we  come  to  Broadway,  quiet  and  gloomy 
here,  since  almost  every  store  is  closed  at  6.  We  cross  it  and  walk 
one  block  east  to  the  head  of  Mulberry  St. ,  just  beyond  which  are 
the  rooms  of  two  street  missions,  one  of  which,  the  Florence  Mission, 
is  widely  known  for  its  work  among  the  women  of  the  street. 

Turning  down  Mulberry  we  pass  the  solemn,  white  front  of  Police 

109 


8 


A  RAMBLE  AT  NIGHT. 


Ill 


Headquarters^  whose  two  green  lanterns,  erect  and  firm  before  the 
door,  are  no  more  watchful  than  the  power  wnthin,  with  its  hand  on 
the  pulse  of  the  metropolis — unceasingly  vigilant,  unfailingly  ready, 
minute  by  minute,  day  after  day,  year  in  and  year  out. 

The  Police  Force. — No  part  of  the  city  government  is  so  apparent, 
to  both  citizens  and  strangers,  as  the  police.  The  first  man  the  visitor 
sees,  as  he  alights  from  his  incoming  train  or  boat,  is  a  policeman. 
The  government  of  the  force  has  gone  through  many  changes,  by  the 
latest  of  which  it  is  governed  by  one  commissioner  who  appoints  the 
Chief  of  Police.  Superintendence  of  Elections  is  no  longer  a  police 
department  duty.   The  Headquarters  of  the  force  is  at  300  Mulberry  St. 

The  boroughs  of  Manhattan  and  the  Bronx  contain  thirty-eight 
precincts,  each  of  which  has  its  own  station  house,  with  quarters  for 
the  men,  cells  for  prisoners,  and,  in  a  few,  a  matron  for  the  care  of 
women  prisoners.  Attached  to  each  one  are  two  patrol  wagons.  Each 
precnict  is  commanded  by  a  captain,  who  has  under  him  sergeants 
and  roundsmen  —  the  latter  * '  gomg  the  rounds  "  to  see  that  the  patrol- 
men are  at  their  posts,  or  **  beats,"  and  domg  their  duty  properly  — 
and  a  quota  of  privates,  or  "  patrolmen."  Many  of  the  men  on  duty 
in  parts  of  the  city  are  mounted  on  horses.  A  large  squad  patrol 
many  streets  upon  bicycles,  and  the  men  of  the  Harbor  Police 
patrol  the  river  margins  in  rowboats,  with  headquarters  on  a  steamer. 
A  "  steamboat  squad  "  is  detailed  in  summer  to  accompany  all  the 
pleasure  boats  plying  to  suburban  and  seaside  resorts,  and  the  special 
water  excursions  and  picnics  so  frequent  at  that  season.  The  Broad- 
way Squad  is  a  picked  body  of  favored  officers,  of  peculiarly  tall  and 
fine  appearance,  who  are  complimented  by  being  assigned  to  day  posts 
upon  the  great  thoroughfare.  The  Detective  Bureau  is  composed  of 
alarge  number  of  skilled  officers  detailed  for  detective  work,  each  with 
the  rank  of  sergeant.  The  force  now  numbers,  all  told,  about  5,000 
men  m  old  New  York,  and  3,000  more  in  Brooklyn,  Queens,  and  Rich- 
mond boroughs. 

Police  Headquarters  (Mulberry  St.,  near  Houston)  is  connected 
with  all  the  stations.  Belle vue  Hospital,  and  some  other  points,  by 
special  telegraph  wires,  and  all  arrests,  fires,  accidents,  and  every 
occurrence  of  any  moment,  in  any  part  of  the  city,  is  at  once  commun- 
icated to  the  Headquarters'  operators.  Unless  there  are  ' '  reasons 
of  state  "  for  keeping  it  a  secret,  a  memorandum  of  this  information 
is  at  once  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  reporters  for  the  press,  who  are 
on  duty  at  Police  Headquarters,  and  who  never  for  a  moment,  day  or 
night,  leave  the  place  "  uncovered."  This  routine  explains  how  so 
great  a  quantity  of  news  is  gathered.  The  same  system  is  applied 
to  the  other  boroughs. 

The  Health  Department  long  had  its  offices  in  this  building,  but 
now  is  quartered  in  its  own  premises.  Sixth  Av.,  cor.  55th  St. 

The  odd,  elevated  figure  confronting  us  as  we  approach  the  next 


112  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


corner  gradually  shapes  itself  out  of  the  shadows  as  the  image  of  ttie 
genial  Puck^  whose  bright  weekly  Is  printed  in  that  great  building. 
On  this  northeast  corner  of  Mulberry  and  Houston  ran  for  many  years 
the  notorious  pugilistic  resort  and  concert  hall  of  Harry  Hill;  but  the 
doughty  proprietoi  closed  his  doors  some  years  ago.  Turning  east 
through  Houston  St. ,  we  walk  two  blocks  to  the  Bowery  (of  which 
more  presently),  ani  jumping  upon  a  car  ride  down  half  a  mile  to 
Worth  St.,  which  opens  as  a  broad  thoroughfare  westward  from  the 
lower  side  of  Chatham  Sq.  We  walk  rapidly  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  along  it,  until  we  suddenly  find  ourselves  in  an  open,  triangu- 
lar space,  where  several  narrow  and  irregular  streets  converge.  This 
is  the 

Five  Points. — Thirty  years  ago  Worth  St.  was  called  Anthony,  and 
did  not  extend  through  from  Chatham  Sq.  to  Broadway,  as  it  now 
does,  but  stopped  midway  at  "the  points,"  where  its  intersection 
with  Park  and  Cross  (now  Baxter)  Sts.  formed  five  triangles.  The 
ground  was  low,  and  had  from  the  first  been  avoided  by  those  who 
could  choose  a  more  desirable  site  for  their  buildings.  On  each  of 
these  points,  years  ago,  stood  grog-shops  of  the  lowest  character,  and 
the  whole  neighborhood  was  filled  with  infamous  houses  and  tumble- 
down tenements,  inhabited  by  the  poorest  and  most  abandoned 
persons — the  human  drainage  of  the  city.  It  would  be  unpleasant 
to  insist  upon  all  the  disagreeable  features.  What  remains  even  yet 
is  indicative  of  a  very  bad  past,  though  the  light  has  been  let  in  by 
the  opening  of  Worth  St.,  the  paving  of  the  little  "square,"  the 
demolition  of  many  of  the  old  rookeries,  and  the  closing  of  such 
alleys  as  "Cow  Bay"  and  "  Donovan's  Lane."  Even  the  old  "Bloody 
Sixth  "  police  station  in  Franklin  St.  was  abandoned  a  dozen  years 
ago.  Nevertheless  you  may  listen  to  the  noise  of  fighting  any  night 
now  in  that  region,  especially  in  the  Italian  quarter  just  north  of  it; 
and  the  counters  of  the  dark  and  dreadful  saloons  are  chipped  with 
knife-thrusts  and  dented  with  pistol-bullets. 

Where  next?  Baxter  St.,  which  leads  straight  through  from  the 
Five  Points  to  Chatham  St. ,  is  dark  and  quiet.  The  ol'  clo'  shops 
are  shut,  and  all  the  Cohens  have  gone  to  bed.  In  the  day-time  this 
narrow,  short,  and  dirty  thoroughfare  will  repay  the  curiosity  of  any 
sight-seer  who  has  the  temerity  to  run  the  gauntlet  of  "pullers  in." 
The  street,  more  commonly  spoken  of  as  "  the  Bay,"  has  always  been 
known  for  its  cheap  clothing  business,  and  shop  after  shop  on  both 
sides  is  given  up  to  our  Hebraic  brethren,  w^ho  appropriate  the  greater 
part  of  the  sidewalk  for  the  display  of  their  various  "bargains." 
Swarthy  men  and  sometimes  girls  entreat  you  to  enter  and  buy,  not 
only,  but  seize  3^our  arm  and  will  drag  you  in,  if  they  can,  despite  the 
protests  and  reviling:s  of  the  salesman  next  door.    The  complacency 


A     AMBLE  AT  mGH2\ 


118 


with  which  you  are  assured  that  black  is  white  and  that  other  contra- 
dictory things  are  similar,  in  order  to  effect  a  sale,  is  amusing  — 
objectively. 

It  is  too  far  to  go  to  see  the  Italian  rag-pickers  in  Crosby  St. ,  but 
we  can  find  a  great  colony  of  the  same  people  in  Little  Italy,  just 
above  here  ;  so  let  us  go  to 

The  Mulberry  Bend. — Mulberry  St. ,  here  at  its  southern  end,  is 
narrow,  dark,  and  dirty.  Six-story  tenements,  whose  unwashed  win- 
dows scarcely  disclose  any  evidence  of  the  lamp-light  within ,  rise  in 
a  solid  wall  on  either  hand.  Their  first  floors  are  occupied  by  shops 
of  various  kinds — all  dark  now,  but  blurs  of  red  and  yellow  light  at 
each  corner,  and  once  or  twice  in  the  middle,  of  every  block,  show 
that  the  saloons  are  still  open.  Along  the  curbstone,  every  two  or 
three  doors,  are  groups  of  trucks, whose  drivers  and  horses  are  stabled 
somewhere  in  the  midst  of  these  tenements.  It  it  not  much  after 
ten  o'clock,  and  plenty  of  people  are  in  the  street ;  if  it  be  one  of  the 
hot  summer  evenings,  everybody  is  out,  half  of  them  asleep  on  the 
trucks,  or  in  door- steps,  or  on  the  cellar  doors,  where  the  mothers 
have  brought  pillows,  or  maybe  a  mattress,  for  their  children  to  lie 
upon  ;  and  there  they  will  sleep  all  night  rather  than  stifle  inside 
those  awful  hives  of  neglected  humanity. 

The  Park  recently  opened  here,  has  clecvred  away  some  of  the  worst 
of  these  squalid  tenements,  and  opened  the  'Points"  and  the  "Bend" 
to  fresh  air  and  green  grass.  It  has  a  rest-house,  fountains,  and  in- 
numerable seats.  A  great  new  schoolhouse  is  close  by.  On  all  sides 
are  pictures  worth  an  artist's  study,  especially  on  a  summer  evening. 

Here  is  a  little  street  coming  in  from  the  right,  and  the  «moky 
torches  of  a  fruit- seller  gleam  upon  the  brass  buttons  of  two  police- 
men who  are  watching  what  seems  to  be  material  for  a  very  pretty 
row,  in  a  group  of  small,  lithe,  dark  men  excitedly  quarreling  and 
gesticulating.  Not  a  word  of  English  is  heard —  only  a  rough,  gut- 
teral  Italian.  Perhaps  they  will  take  it  out  in  words  —  perhaps  a 
knife  may  flash  out,  a  cry  be  heard,  and  the  cat-like  murderer  get 
away,  even  though  policemen  are  so  close  at  hand,  for  his  countrymen 
will  help  him  to  escape,  in  order  that  they  may  institute  the  vendetta 
and  become  their  own  avengers.  We  move  on.  The  way  is  m^of « 
crowded,  and  as  we  jostle  through  it  is  hard  to  believe  this  is  Mt 
Naples.  The  street  curves  slightly  to  the  left.  More  dark-skinned 
men  and  bonnetless  women  —  who  ever  saw  one  of  these  signorinas 
wear  a  hat  ?  —  throng  the  sidewalks  and  squat  in  the  doorways  of  the 


114 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


little  shops,  whose  thresholds  are  below  the  sidewalk,  or  lounge  upon 
the  trucks,  or  pass  in  and  out  of  a  concert  hall  where  dancing  is  going 
on.  Let  us  step  into  this  groggery  kept  by  a  man  whose  name  is 
honored  in  Rome,  if  his  sign  may  be  believed,  and  get  a  glass  of 
beer.  It  is  a  dark,  smoky  little  bar-room,  filled  with  Italians.  No 
doubt  they  look  ferocious,  if  your  fancy  insists  upon  it,  but  to  me 
there  seems  only  a  sort  of  brutish  curiosity  in  their  glances.  The 
beer  comes  in  glasses  holding  nearly  a  quart,  and  only  three  cents  is 
n.sked;  but  if  it  was  not  altogether  obtained  by  emptying  the  dregs  of 
the  beer-kegs  in  other  saloons,  the  stock  w^as  certainly  eked  out  in 
that  way.  We  take  just  a  sip  for  politeness  sake  and  go  out  again. 
This  is  the  Mulberry  Bend  —  in  some  respects  the  most  unmanage- 
able crime-nursery  in  the  city.  It  is  quiet  enough,  as  a  rule,  how- 
ever, and  we  turn  back  and  saunter  through  the  stinking  shadows  of 
Bayard  St.  ( the  very  worst  part  of  a  very  bad  street  named  after  the 
pattern  of  gentility)  without  any  sensations  of  alarm,  since  no  ven- 
detta has  been  declared  against  us  in  "  Little  Italy." 

Chinatown  and  the  Chinese. — At  the  top  of  the  slope  of  Baxter  St. 
is  Mott  St. ,  and  here  in  daylight  an  extremely  picturesque  and  for- 
eign scene  is  presented  as  you  look  back  at  the  rickety  tenements 
and  the  chaffering  crowd  of  excitable  hucksters.  Mott  St.,  from 
Bayard  to  Chatham  Sq.,  is  the  heart  of  Chinatown.  Here,  or  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood,  the  majority  of  the  7,000  Chinese  in  New 
York  has  its  home,  though  its  work  may  be  done  to  a  large  extent 
somewhere  else.  Here  are  the  joss  houses,  the  civil  officers  of  the 
colony,  the  merchants,  the  tailors,  and  shoemakers,  the  lodging- 
houses  and  restaurants,  the  gambling  rooms  and  opium-smoking 
places. 

The  latest  estimate  by  the  Chinese  Consulate  (26  W.  9th  St.)  places 
the  number  of  Chinese  in  New  York  and  Brooklyn  at  about  7,000. 
All  come  from  a  little  territory  in  the  province  of  Kwantung,  in  part 
known  as  the  Sam  Yup,  or  Four  Towns,  and  the  Sz'  Yup  or  Three 
Towns. 

Some  thirty  "companies"  of  merchants  are  enumerated  in  New 
York,  and  many  of  them  do  a  large  business,  not  only  at  home,  but 
in  supplying  Chinese  shops  in  outlying  towns.  Their  stock  is  mainly 
imported  direct,  and  includes  a  wide  range  of  goods.  These  stores 
are  always  open,  of  course,  to  visitors,  and  in  each  of  them  a  clerk  or 
proprietor  speaking  English  will  be  found.  The  largest  wholesale 
ones  are  in  Mott  St.  and  Chatham  Sq. ;  but  the  most  showy  retail 
shops  are  those  in  Pell  St. ,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Bowery.  Their 
habits  of  personal  cleanliness  are  maintained,  their  streets  are  by 
all  odds  the  cleanest  in  that  part  of  the  city,  the  buildings  in  which 


A  RAMBLE  AT  NIGHT, 


115 


they  live  are  well  swept  and  kept  in  good  repair,  and  their  quarters, 
though  smelling  of  incense  smoke,  and  otherwise  strangely  malodor- 
ous to  Caucasian  nostrils,  and  despite  their  crowded  condition,  far 
surpass  in  wholesome  cleanliness  the  tenements  of  the  foreigners 
around  them. 

The  hour  of  this  walk  is  too  late,  of  course,  to  enable  us  vo  enter  the 
stores,  whose  upright  signs,  with  big  carved  characters  and  little 
knots  and  tassels  of  cloth,  glimmer  picturesquely  in  the  gaslight. 
What  we  can  see  through  the  darkened  windows  induces  a  resolve  to 
come  here  again  by  daylight.  The  front  of  a  building  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  way  attracts  attention.  It  is  covered  with  balconies  hung 
with  gaudy  signs  and  ornaments,  and  illuminated  by  large  octagonal 
lanterns  of  colored  glass.  This  is  the  new  temple  or  joss  house  at 
No.  i6,  which  is  worth  a  visit. 

A  Joss  House. — We  enter  the  hall,  and  climb  two  pairs  of  stairs  to 
the  front  room,  where  the  noise  made  by  our  entrance  brings  an  aged 
and  shriveled  attendant,  who  bows  his  welcome,  shaking  his  own 
hands  the  while,  instead  of  shaking  ours.  One  side  of  the  room  is 
filled  with  a  great  shrine  of  magnificently  carved  ebony  columns  and 
arches,  within  which  carved  figures  covered  with  gold  leaf  are  placed, 
the  whole  resembling  somewhat  the  stage-setting  of  a  tiny  theater. 
The  extreme  back  of  the  shrine  is  occupied  by  a  half-length  painting 
representing,  they  tell  you,  Gwan  Gwing  Shing  Te,  the  only  original 
god  of  the  Chmese  Empire.  On  his  left  is  the  woman-like  figure  of 
his  grand  secretary,  Lee  Poo,  and  on  his  right,  in  fiercest  battle  array, 
is  Tu  Chong,  the  grand  body-guard.  A  row  of  candles,  set  like  theater 
footlights,  illuminates  the  painting,  and  brings  out  all  its  barbaric 
splendor.  About  three  feet  in  front  of  the  shrine  is  a  massive  carved 
table  upon  which  are  arranged  the  brass  jars,  joss  sticks,  sandle-wood 
urns,  and  all  the  offerings  and  sacrifices  peculiar  to  this  worship.  It 
is  before  this  table,  after  lighting  his  incense  sticks  and  his  sacred 
paper,  that  the  Mongolian  worshiper  makes  his  devotional  salaams, 
pours  his  tiny  libation  of  rice  wine,  and  repeats  the  ritual  of  prayers 
enjoined  upon  him.^  The  religion  of  this  people,  as  manifested  here, 
is,  however,  accompanied  by  little  sacredness. 

A  Chinese  Theater  is  conducted  at  5  Doyer  St. ,  which  may  be 
visited  by  anyone,  and  (in  parties)  by  ladies.  The  plays  and  audi- 
ence are  thoroughly  and  characteristically  Chinese,  by  actors  of  abil- 
ity, are  never  offensive,  and  often  are  comical.  Admission,  25  cents. 
Confections  and  sugar-cane  are  sold,  and  everybody  smokes. 

Several  Chinese  restaurants  are  carried  on  in  this  quarter,  and  on 
Saturday  nights  and  Sundays,  when  Chinamen  flock  in  here  to 
visit  friends  and  make  purchases,  they  are  crowded.  The  largest 
one  is  kept  by  Kee  Keng  Low  on  the  third  floor  (front)  of  16  Mott 
St.    Another  is  at  i6  Doyer  St. 


116 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


The  Bowery, — It  is  only  eleven  o'clock,  and  the  Bowery  is  still 
crowded  with  people,  and  brilliant  with  innumerable  lights  along  its 
whole  length.  There  is  no  other  such  a  street  in  America.  J'  In  it  is 
probably  represented  every  civilized  nation  on  the  globe,  and  it  is  un- 
questionably a  democratic  street.  It  is  the  antithesis  of  Broadway, 
and  the  grand  avenue  of  the  respectable  lower  classes."  Years  ago 
it  was  the  resort  of  a  peculiar  type  of  braggart  ruffians,  the  Bowery 
boys,  who  were  the  heroes  of  that  New  York  which  was  guarded  by 
the  "  leather  head  "  police,  and  ran  to  fires  *'  wid  de  machine  "  of  their 
favorite  volunteer  company.  Dickens  found  here  material  to  his 
taste.  No  chapter  in  his  "  American  Notes  *'  is  more  graphic  or  true 
than  that  upon  the  Bowery  ;  and  Thackeray  was  anxious  first  of  all 
to  see  this  street  and  its  habitues.  But  that  time  passed  with  the  era 
of  the  war  and  the  coming  of  the  immigrants.  Americans  have 
almost  disappeared  from  that  part  of  New  York,  and  the  swaggering 
*'  boy  "  has  departed.  The  "  young  feller  "  who  remains  is  really  no 
better,  but  he  is  more  showy,  less  troublesome,  and  is  in  turn  giving 
way  to  the  German  and  Jew,  good-natured  and  frugal,  even  in  their 
amusements.  Larger  buildings  and  better  shops  are  exhibited  year 
by  year,  and  the  Bowery  is  gradually  but  steadily  rising. 

The  Russian  Quarter. — It  is  getting  late.  We  must  hurry  east- 
ward. Here  is  Chatham  Sq.  again.  A  maze  of  streets  radiates  off  a. 
the  left — dark,  narrow  streets  leading  down  toward  the  East 
River,  and  we  can  see  in  the  distance  a  few  of  the  lights  on  the 
Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  distinguish  against  the  sky  the  shadowy  blur 
of  a  tower.  Let  us  follow  the  line  of  the  Second  A  v.  El.  Ry.  up  Di- 
vision St.  as  far  as  Market  St. ,  running  the  gauntlet  of  hook-nosed 
girls  in  front  of  the  millinery  stores,  who,  from  pure  force  of  habit, 
will  beseech  us  to  go  in  and  buy  something  "  for  your  lady,  sir."  It 
is  an  odd  bit  of  the  city.  Then  we  turn  down  Market,  a  broad  and 
once  important  street,  which  runs  down  to  East  River,  and  cross 
over  one  block  to  East  Broadway,  a  semi-fashionable  thoroughfare 
half  a  century  ago,  but  now  the  central  avenue  of  the  Russian  and 
Polish  quarter,  so  far  as  these  people  can  be  separated  from  Jews, 
Bohemians,  and  Hungarians, who  throng  a  square  mile  of  marvelously 
crowded  tenements  in  this  region.  Here,  among  his  countrymen, 
dwells  many  a  political  refugee  or  escaped  soldier  from  the  dominion 
of  the  Tsar  ;  or  if,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  New  York,  the  education 
of  the  exile  enables  him  to  earn  enough  to  live  in  a  better  pl'^ce,  he  is 
often  lo  be  seen  here  as  a  visitor.    Signs  in  Russian  letters  ai^  fre- 


A  RAMBLE  A  T  NIGHT. 


117 


qtient.  One  of  these,  over  the  door  of  a  basement  Hquor  saloon,  sug- 
gests to  us  that  we  go  in  and  get  a  glass  of  vodka,  or  Russian  spirits; 
there  is  Httle  in  it  that  differs  from  any  bar-room  of  the  vicinity,  and 
the  drink  is  nothing  but  poor  whisky.  The  sign  of  a  Russian  res- 
taurant attracts  us.  We  find  a  neat  room,  once  the  parlor  of  a  big 
house,  where  a  mother  and  two  comely  daughters  are  chatting  with 
half  a  dozen  dark-skinned  young  men,  who  sit  smoking  cigarettes  at 
small  tables.  We  get  some  bread  and  coffee,  and  go  our  way,  having 
seen  little  if  anything  out  of  the  ordinary.  The  Russian,  the  Pole, 
the  Bohemian,  is  lost  at  once  in  the  American  ;  but  the  Jew  remains 
a  Jew. 

In  "Judea.** — We  turn  disappointedly  out  of  East  Broadway,  and 
wander  about  the  narrow  dirty  streets  northward  ;  and  westward^ 
Forsythe,  Allen,  Orchard,  Ludlow,  Hester,  and  Canal.  Everywhere 
six  and  seven  storied  brick  tenement  houses  are  crowded  to  their  eaves 
with  humanity.  One  single  square  mile  in  this  part  of  town  holds  a 
quarter  of  a  million  persons.  Nine-tenths  of  them  are  Germans  or 
Germanized  Jews  and  Bohemians.  They  are  the  hardest -working 
part  of  the  population,  and  spend  the  least  of  what  they  earn.  The 
Israelites  are  the  most  interesting.  They  form  a  community  by 
themselves,  supplying  each  other's  wants  and  having  communication 
only  to  a  limited  extent  with  outsiders.  Here  is  where  the  fakers 
and  peddlers  who  throng  the  lower  part  of  the  town  get  their  supplies 
and  learn  how  to  earn  their  livelihood,  even  before  they  have  any 
idea  of  the  language  of  the  country. 

There  is  no  special  reason  why  we  should  come  to  see  them  at 
night,  save  for  the  picturesqueness  of  it ;  except  on  Thursday  night 
(preceding  the  Hebrew  Sabbath,  which  begins  at  Friday's  sunset) 
when  the  streets,  and  especially  Hester  St. ,  are  crowded  to  suffoca- 
tion with  crowds  of  strollers  and  buyers  of  the  holiday's  provisions, 
and  long  lines  of  hand-carts,  selling  every  conceivable  thing  and  illu- 
minated by  flaring  oil-torches.  The  little  shops  open  their  doors  to 
the  widest,  and  upon  every  cellar  door  some  zealous  merchant  dis- 
plays a  heap  of  second-hand  goods,  and  howls  out  the  name  and 
virtues  of  his  wares. 

Fire  Department. — Few  things  interest  the  stranger  in  New  York 
more  than  to  go  to  a  fire  and  see  the  work  of  what  is  conceded  to  be 
the  most  scientific  and  capable  fire  department  in  the  world.  It  is 
ruled  by  a  commissioner,  appointed  by  the  mayor,  from  headquarters 


118  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


at  157  E.  67th  St.,  but  practical  direction  is  in  the  hands  of  a  chief, 
who  has  under  him  a  deputy  for  Brooklyn.  The  old  city  contains 
over  100  engine,  hook-and-ladder,  and  water-tower  companies, 
grouped  into  battalions  under  battalion  chiefs,  and  so  arranged  in 
districts  that  a  certain  amount  of  apparatus  responds  to  any  alarm  in 
its  district,  and  more  is  called  by  additional  telegraphic  signals. 


TRINITY  CHURCH  — Lower  Broadway,  opposite  Wall  Street. 


VIII. 


CHURCHES  AND  RELIGIOUS  AND 
BENEVOLENT  WORK. 

The  Dutch  Reformed  Church  has  the  honor  of  possessing  not  only 
the  oldest  Protestant  organization  in  New  York,  but  in  the  Western 
hemisphere.  This  patriarch  is  the  Collegiate  D.  F.  Church  Society, 
whose  250th  anniversary  was  celebrated  Nov.  21,  1878.  The  finest 
of  the  present  Dutch  Reformed  churches,  architecturally,  is  the 
Third  (or  Fifth  Avenue)  Collegiate  at  Fifth  Av.  and  4Sth  St.,  which 
exhibits  a  wealth  of  study  in  its  constructive  and  other  decorations. 
The  Bloomingdale  Church  (W  End  Ave.  and  io6th  St )  is  a  handsome 
building  of  white  and  gray  stone.  Another  handsome  edifice  belongs 
to  the  Second  Collegiate  of  Harlem,  at  Lenox  Av.  and  123d  St.  The 
church  at  Fifth  Av.  and  29th  St.  is  known  as  the  Holland  Church,  and 
is  a  fine  building  of  Vermont  marble  in  the  Romanesque  style.  In 
addition  to  those  heretofore  mentioned,  some  twenty  other  churches 
and  missions  of  this  denomination  are  scattered  about  the  city  and  its 
northern  suburbs,  a  recent  addition  to  the  list  being  the  Hamilton 
Avenue  Church,  at  W.  145th  St.  and  Convent  Av. ,  ^vhich  stands  upon 
what  was  once  the  home  estate  of  Alexander  Hamilton. 

Episcopalian. —  Next  in  antiquity  as  an  organization  is  the  Prot- 
estant Episcopal  (Church  of  England),  where,  of  course.  Trinity 
heads  a  list  notable  for  splendid  architecture  as  well  as  good  works. 
The  residence  of  the  bishop  is  at  347  W.  89th  St.,  and  his  office  at 
113  West  40th  St.  A  cathedral  to  cost  several  millions  is  being 
built  presently  upon  the  high  ground  near  the  lower  end  of 
Morningside  Park  (W.  iioth  St.).  The  oldest  organization  in  the 
denomination  and  in  the  city  (except  the  Dutch  Reformed)  ^  and  the 
wealthiest,  and  most  ritualistic  one  in  the  United  States,  is 

Trinity  Church.— It  is  on  Broadway,  facing  Wall  St.,  and  the 
Rector  St.  station  of  the  Sixth  Av.  El.  Ry.,  whose  trains  overlook 

119 


120 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


its  churchyard,  is  close  in  its  rear.  The  land  on  which  Trinity 
Church  now  stands  was  the  old  West  India  Company's  farm,  before 
the  Conquest  of  Manhattan  Island  by  the  English.  It  then  became 
"the  King's  farm,"  and  in  1705  was  granted  to  this,  the  Colonial 
Church.  These  lands  embraced  the  entire  tract  lying  along  the 
North  River,  between  the  present  Vesey  and  Christopher  streets. 
Much  of  it  was  subsequently  given  away  to  institutions  of  various 
sorts,  but  enough  remains  to  constitute  a  property  yielding  about 
$500,000  income  annually  and  worth  an  enormous  amount  at  the 
market  prices  of  real  estate  in  that  part  of  the  city.  This  income  is 
spent  in  the  maintenance  of  old  Trinity  and  six  chapels,  besides  aid 
to  many  subsidiary  missions  in  various  squalid  parts  of  the  city,  to 
supporting  a  long  list  of  charities,  and  to  the  care  of  Trinity  Ceme- 
tery in  Manhattan ville.  The  original  church,  built  in  1697,  and 
rebuilt  in  1737,  was  destroyed  in  the  great  fxre  of  1776.  It  was  not 
replaced  for  several  years,  St.  Paul's  giving  its  hospitality  to  the 
parishioners;  but  in  1788  a  new  church  was  erected  which  stood  for 
half  a  century.  It  was  then  torn  down,  and  upon  its  site  arose  the 
present  edifice,  which  was  completed  in  1846. 

Trinity  Churchyard  is  beautiful  in  itself,  and  full  of  associations  of 
monuments  of  historical  interest.  Many  of  the  graves  go  back  to  the 
17th  century.  Here  are  buried  man}^  well-known  persons,  among 
them  Alexander  Hamilton.  It  is  open  to  the  public  daily. 

Of  the  monuments  the  most  conspicuous  is  the  "  Martyrs,"  in  the 
northeast  corner,  near  the  street.  This  was  erected  by  the  Trinity 
corporation  in  memory  of  the  American  patriots  who  died  in  British 
prisons  in  this  city  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  Another  promi- 
nent monument,  at  the  left  of  the  entrance,  is  the  one  to  the  memory 
of  Captain  Lawrence,  of  the  man-of-war  Chesapeake ,  whose  dying 
cry,  "  Don't  give  up  the  ship,"  is  carved  upon  its  pictured  sides. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  which  stands  on  Broadway  between  Fulton  and 
Vesey  Sts.,  and  nearly  opposite  the  Post  Office,  is  in  reality  only  a 

chapel "  of  Trinity  Parish.  It  is  the  rear  which  is  seen  upon  Broad- 
way, the  church  originally  facing  toward  the  North  River  and  com- 
manding a  view  of  it.  This  edifice  was  built  in  1764-6,  and  althougt 
the  third  in  the  order  of  its  foundation  is  now  the  oldest  church  build- 
ing in  the  city.  Its  architecture  is  good  and  impressive,  and  its 
interior  a  chaste  and  carefully  preserved  example  of  the  ecclesiastical 
fashion  of  1 50  years  ago.  Its  venerable  walls  have  seen  many  mem- 
orable ceremonies,  and  in  its  churchyard  are  resting  the  bones  of 


CHURCHES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK. 


121 


famous  men  and  women.  In  the  rear  wall,  facing  Broadway,  is  a 
memorial  tablet  to  General  Richard  Montgomery,  the  hero  of  Quebec, 
while  in  the  churchyard  are  monuments  to  Thomas  Addis  Emmet,  an 
Irish  patriot,  the  actor,  George  F.  Cooke,  and  others. 

Grace 
Church 

stands  on 
Broadway  at 
Toth  St.,  just 
where  the 
great  tno*-- 
oug  hfare 
bends  slight- 
ly westward; 
and  it  is 
therefore  in 
view  for  a 
longdistance 
from  both  di- 
r  e  c  t  i  o  n  s . 
The  style  is 
decorated 
Gothic,  elab- 
orately car- 
ried out,  and 
the  '  rectory 
and  adjoin- 
ingbuildings 
are  harmoni^ 
ously  adapt- 
ed to  it,  while 
a  pretty 
space  of 
lawn  and 

GRACE  CHURCH.  garden 
makes  a  pleasing  foreground  to  one  of  the  most  gratifying  architec- 
tural pictures  in  New  York.  Its  spire  is  particularly  graceful,  and 
contains  a  melodious  chime  of  bells.  The  windows  and  interior 
of  Grace  Church  are  very  rich  in  decorations  ;  and  this  church 
shares  with  St.  Thomas  the  most  fashionable  weddings  in  the  city. 
The  Chantry — a  small  addition  on  the  south  side  of  the  church,  used 


122 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


for  daily  services — was  erected  by  money  given  by  the  late  Miss 
Catherine  Wolfe.  A  building  connecting  the  church  and  the  rectory 
is  used  as  a  vestry  and  clergy  house,  and  contains  a  library  and  read- 
ing room,  open  to  members  of  the  church;  in  the  rear  is  a  school. 
Back  of  the  church,  in  Fourth  Av.,  is  a  day  nursery,  erected  by  Mr. 
Levi  P.  Morton,  in  memory  of  his  wife,  for  the  reception  of  young 
children  during  the  hours  their  mothers  are  at  work,  and  known  as 
the  Grace  Memorial  Home.    Grace  Chapel  belongs  to  the  parish. 

St.  George's  on  East  i6th  Street,  overlooking  Stuyvesant  Sq. ,  is 
descended  from  the  congregation  of  the  second  Episcopal  church 
erected  in  the  city,  which  stood  at  Beekman  and  Cliff  Sts. ,  now  the 
heart  of  the  leather  and  hardware  district.  It  is  a  very  spacious  and 
handsome  building,  and  has  an  annex  for  the  Sunday  school,  etc., 
built  by  Mr.  J.  Pierpont  Morgan. 

St.  Mark's  is  another  venerable  church  edifice,  at  Second  Av.  and 
xoth  St.  (9th  St.  Station,  Third  Av.  El.  Ry.),  which  covers  the  site  of 
a  chapel  built  by  Stuyvesant,  the  last  of  the  Dutch  governors,  whose 
bones  rest  beneath  its  floor.  The  present  is  the  second  building, 
erected  in  1826.  Its  outer  (eastern)  wall  has  a  memorial  to  Stuyvesant. 

St.  Thomas'  Church  is  at  Fifth  Av.  and  53d  St.,  and  is  perhaps 
the  most  fashionable  of  up-town  houses  of  worship.  Its  paintings  by 
Lafarge  and  its  illuminated  windows  are  justly  admired. 

The  Church  of  the  Transfiguration  in  29th  St. ,  just  east  of  Fifth 
Av.,  is  now  known  all  over  the  country  as  ''the  little  church  'round 
the  corner."  This  name  is  said  to  have  been  derived  from  the  refusal 
some  years  ago  of  a  certain  pastor  in  Madison  Av.  to  perform  the 
burial  service  over  the  body  of  the  aged  actor,  George  Holland,  bid- 
ding the  emissary  of  his  friends  (who  was  Joseph  Jefferson)  go  to 
"a  little  church  'round  the  corner,"  where  they  might  be  accommo- 
dated. Since  that  time  the  players  of  the  country  have  held  this 
church  and  the  late  Dr.  Houghton,  its  pastor,  in  veneration,  and 
nearly  all  actors  and  actresses  who  die  in  New  York  are  buried  from 
it.  A  memorial  window  to  Harry  Montague  is  one  of  its  features. 
It  is  a  low,  cruciform  building,  in  Gothic  style,  shaded  by  trees;  its 
walls  are  half  covered  with  vines,  it  has  a  pretty  lych-gate,  and 
altogether  is  one  of  the  most  attrrctive  houses  of  worship  in  t^-^,  city. 

About  eighty  other  churches  an  1  chapels  of  this  denomination  exist 
within  this  city,  nearly  all  of  which  are  *'  low  church." 

Presbyterianism  is  the  method  of  one  of  the  oldest  and  strongest 


CMUkCMES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK. 


sects  in  New  York.  The  First  Church,  founded  in  1716,  stood  orig- 
inally in  Wall  St.,  near  Broadway,  but  now  occupies  the  block  on 
Fifth  Av.  between  nth  and  12th  Sts.,  with  one  of  the  most  dignified 
edifices  of  its  class  in  town.  Nine  pastors  have  succeeded  one  an- 
other there,  the  present  being  H.  Duffield,  D.  D.  The  next  oldest 
church  is  the  Scotch  (1756),  now  at  96th  St.  and  Central  Park,  W.  The 
Brick  Church,  whose  tall  spire  crowns  Murray  Hill,  is  next  in  age, 
but  overreaches  both  in  social  prominence.  Originally  (1765)  it  stood 
on  the  triangle  opposite  the  City  Hall,  now  occupied  by  an  office 
building.  The  former  pastor  was  Dr.  Henry  Van  Dyke.  The 
Rutgers  St.  Church  (now  the  Rutgers  Riverside)  was  organized  in 
1798  down-town,  and  has  finally  moved  to  its  present  place  at  73d  St. 
and  the  Boulevard. 

The  Fifth  Avenue  Presbyterian  (pulpit  of  the  late  Dr.  John  Hall) 
is  the  most  fashionable  as  well  as  the  most  popular  of  the  churches 
of  this  denomination  in  New  York,  and  is  the  successor  of  an  old 
society  organized  in  Cedar  St.  in  1808,  which,  after  several  removals, 
arrived  at  its  present  building  at  Fifth  Av.  and  55th  St.  This  is  a 
highly  decorated  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.  The  interior  pre- 
sents as  great  a  contrast  to  the  conventional  plain  meeting-house  of 
former  days  as  can  well  be  imagined.  Neither  carving  nor  color  ha^ 
been  spared,  and  the  effect  produced  is  rather  more  that  associated 
with  a  theater  than  with  a  church  —  an  effect  which  the  light  wood 
used  in  the  paneling  and  in  the  construction  of  the  pews,  and  the 
gradual  sloping  of  the  floor  from  the  entrance  to  the  pulpit,  help  to 
bring  out  to  its  fullest  extent.  Dr.  Hall  came  from  Dublin,  Ireland, 
in  T867,  died  in  Ireland  in  1898,  and  was  buried  there. 

The  churches  heretofore  named  are  the  original  Presbyterian 
churches  of  the  city,  which  number  fifty-five  in  all,  not  including 
several  mission  chapels.  A  few  others  of  the  more  prominent  should 
be  mentioned.  The  Madison  Square  Church  is  that  of  which  Dr. 
William  Adams  was  so  long  the  pastor,  succeeded  by  the  present  in- 
cumbent, the  Rev.  Charles  H.  Parkhurst.  The  Fourth  Avenue,  at 
Fourth  Av.  and  22d  St.,  became  famous  under  the  pastorate  of  the 
late  Dr.  Howard  Crosby.  The  Madison  Avenue  is  under  the  care  of 
the  Rev.  H.  S.  Coffin;  the  Church  of  the  Covenant,  long  min- 
istered to  by  the  Rev.  Prof.  Marvin  R.  Vincent,  is  now  led  by  Dr.  G. 
S.  Webster;  and  the  Phillips  Church  (formerly  Fifteenth  St.),  at 
Madison  A  v.  and  73d  St. ,  has  as  pastor  Dr.  J.  E.  Bushnell.  The  head- 
quarters fc«:  the  many  Presbyterian  societies  for  church  work  home 


1^4  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


missions,  church  erection,  etc. ,  are  in  the  splendid  stone  office-building 
at  Fifth  Av.  and  21st  St.,  called  Lenox  Hall. 

Methodist  Episcopal. — Methodism  is  an  old  institution  in  New 
York.  The  most  ancient  edifice  is  in  Willet  St.,  near  Grand,  but 
the  John  Street  Church  is  entitled  to  foremost  mention.  This  build- 
ing occupies  the  site  of  the  first  Methodist  church  in  America,  and  is 
known  as  the  cradle  of  American  Methodism.  The  Allen  St.  Mem- 
orial, Rivington  St.  east  of  Orchard,  is  the  successor  of  the  church  in 
Allen  St. ,  so  famous  in  the  religious  annals  of  the  city  as  the  center  of 
a  remarkable  revival  about  1830.  The  Washington  Square  Churchy 
so  called,  occupies  a  marble  building  m  4th  St. ,  near  Sixth  Av.  The 
Central  Church  (Seventh  Av.  near  14th  St.)  is  the  successor  of  that  in 
Vestry  St. ,  and  St.  Pauls,  now  possessed  of  a  fine  edifice  of  marble,  at 
Fourth  Av.  and  226.  St. ,  succeeds  an  old  one  in  Mulberry  St.  The 
Eighteenth  Street,  between  Eighth  and  Ninth  Avs.,  is  the  "  Charter 
Church,"  holding  the  original  deeds,  and  its  trustees  are  the  legal 
successors  of  the  first  board.  The  Madison  Avenue  (at  No.  659)  has 
a  fine  brown-stone  building  recently  erected;  this  is  the  church  made 
famous  by  Dr.  Newman,  who  numbered  General  Grant  among  his 
parishioners.^  The  pulpit  floor  of  another  fashionable  new  M.  E. 
Church,  the  Park  Avenue,  is  made  from  timber  from  the  original 
church  in  John  St.  Trinity  (323  East  11 8th  St.)  has  the  largest  mem- 
bership of  any  Methodist  church  in  the  city,  and  St.  James  in  W. 
126th  St.,  stands  second  in  this  respect.  St.  Andrews,  on  76th  St., 
between  Ninth  and  Tenth  Avs.,  is  in  a  fashionable  location,  and  is 
the  finest  house  of  worship  of  this  denomination  in  town.  A  new 
and  very  artistic  church  is  St.  Paul's,  West  End  Av.  and  86th  St. 

The  Baptist  church  in  New  York  goes  back  to  an  early  date  in 
local  history,  when  a  congregation  met  on  Golden  Hill,  at  the  head 
of  Burling  Slip,  where  they  were  in  danger  of  mob  violence  on  account 
of  their  Arminian  doctrines,  which  were  distasteful  to  the  rest  of  the 
people.  Gov.  Stuyvesant,  however,  guaranteed  them  protection,  and 
the  sect  has  thriven  since,  and  now  numbers  fifty-two  churches  and 
missions.  The  most  noted  of  these  are:  The  Fifth  Avenue,  at 
W.  46th  St.;  Madison  Avenue,  at  E.  31st  St.;  Epiphany,  W.  83d  St. 
and  Broadway;  Calvary,  Sixth  Av.  and  57th  St.;  and  the  Abyssinian 
(colored),  166  Waverley  Place. 

Congregationalism  has  not  grown  as  much  in  old  New  York  as  in 
Brooklyn.  The  foremost  church  is  the  Tabernacle,  at  Broadway  and 
56th  St.,  of  which  the  late  Dr.  W.  M.  Taylor  was  the  pastor.  The 


CHURCHES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK. 


125 


Central  Chur'ch,  at  57th  St. ,  between  Eighth  and  Ninth  Avs.,  and 
the  Pilgrim  Church,  Madison  Av.  and  E.  121st  St.,  are  most  influen- 
tial societies. 

Of  Unitarian  churches  New  York  has  three,  two  of  which  are 

widely  celebrated  by  reason  of 
the  eloquence  of  their  pastors. 
All  Souls  oldest,  and  was 
made  by  the  late  Dr.  Bellows 
the  most  prominent  church  of 
this  denomination  in  the  city,  if 
not  in  the  whole  country.  It 
stands  at  the  corner  of  Fourth 
Av.  and  20th  St.,  and  is  very 
conspicuous  through  its  red  and 
w^hite  Byzantine  style  of  archi- 
tecture. The  Church  of  the 
Messiah,  at  61  E.  34th  St.,  cor- 
ner of  Park  Av. ,  is  now  distin- 
guished by  the  oratory  of  the 
Rev.  Robert  Colly er,  its  pastor, 
and  is  a  handsome  structure. 
In  Harlem  the  Unitarians  wor- 
ship at  Lenox  Av.  and  121st  St. 

The  Lutheran  denomination  is 
as  strong  in  New  York  as  might 
be  expected  of  its  large  German 
population.  Its  churches  are 
mainly  on  the  East  Side  and  in 
Harlem,  but  are  not  confined  to 
those  quarters.  Nearly  the  old- 
est, if  not  quite  so,  is  St.  Ma- 
thias,  at  the  corner  of  Broome 
and  Elizabeth  Sts.,  where  ser- 
vice is  still  held  and  a  school 
TEMPLE  EMANU-EL.  maintained  in  one  of  the  worst 

precincts  in  the  city.  St.  James,  in  E.  73d  St.,  is  also  prominent. 
The  "  German  Evangelical  Reformed''  church  is  at  97  Suffolk  St. 
Quakers,  or  Friends,  have  two  meeting  houses,  one  at  144  E.  20th 
St. ,  and  another  on  Rutherford  PL,  facing  Stu3^vesant  Sq.  A 
z//^?// society  worships  at  154  Lexington  Av.,  with  a  mission  at  636 
9 


126  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Sixth  Av.  Three  Universalist  churches  may  be  found,  viz. :  Church 
of  the  Divine  Paternity,  76th  St.  and  Central  Park,  W.  .'and  the 
Church  of  the  Eternal  Hope,  142  W.  8ist  St. 

The  Israelitish  population  of  the  city  has  been  growing  with  great 
rapidity  during  the  past  decade,  and  their  synagogues  now  number 
about  fifty.  Most  of  them  are  small  edifices,  in  the  narrow  East 
Side  streets;  but  many  are  scattered  along  the  avenues,  and  beautify 
them  by  their  oriental  architecture.  Such  are  Beth-El,  Fifth  Av. 
and  76th  St.;  B'nai Jeshurun,  Madison  Av.,  near  65th  St.;  Hand  in 
Hand  slm^  Temfle  Israel,  in  Harlem;  Shaarai  Tephila,  Columbus 
Av.  and  82d  St.,  and,  most  notable  of  all,  Temple  E^nanu-El,  north- 
east corner  of  Fifth  Av.  and  43d  St.,  which  is  the  finest  specimen  of 
Moorish  architecture  in  America,  and  one  of  the  costliest  religious 
structures  in  the  city.  It  is  built  of  brown  and  yellow  sandstone, 
with  the  roof  of  alternate  lines  of  red  and  black  tiles.  The  center  of 
the  fagade  on  Fifth  Av.,  containing  the  main  entrance,  is  flanked  by 
two  towers  or  rather  minarets,  both  richly  carved.  The  congrega- 
tion belongs  to  the  reform  wing,  under  the  pastorate  of  the  learned 
J.  Silverman  and  L.  Magnes. 

Some  misceiianeous  cnurcnes  and  missions  should  not  be  forgotten 
The  Church  of  the  Strangers,  formerly  at  299  Mercer  St.,  where  Dr. 
C.  F.  Deems  was  pastor,  which  appeals  directly  to  readers  of  this  book, 
has  now  been  moved  to  No.  307  W.  57th  St.;  it  still  sustains  important 
missions  among  the  unfortunate.  The  Swedenb  or  giants  worship  at 
114  E.  35th  St.,  and  (in  German)  at  141  Chrystie.  The  Mariner's 
Church  at  46  Catherine  St.  (near  Chatham  Sq.)  is  interesting,  as  are 
services  at  the  Howard,  Florence,  Cremorne  (104  W.  32d  St.),  and 
several  other  missions. 

Roman  Catholic  Churches. 

Roman  Catholicism  met  with  great  prejudice  ana  material 
obstacles  when  it  first  endeavored  to  gain  a  foothold  in  New  York, 
and  failed  tc  do  so  until  after  the  Revolution  ;  but  now  it  leads  all 
other  denominations  in  the  number  of  its  communicants  drawn  from 
every  rank  of  society. 

The  Cathedral  is  the  first,  of  course,  of  the  Catholic  churches,  and 
the  great  show  church  of  the  city;  it  is  described  at  length  farther  on. 

About  100  other  Roman  Catholic  churches  are  cat  ..liogued,  oi"  which 
only  a  few  need  be  commented  upon.  The  oldest,  as  has  been  said, 
is  St.  Peter  s  (Barclay  and  Church  Sts.).    Next  m  order  of  age  come 


128 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


the  Old  Cathedral  (St.  Patrick's  church)  at  Mott  and  Prince  Sts., 
now  in  the  center  of  an  Italian  population  ;  it  is  underlaid  by  vaults 
(but  burials  have  ceased),  where  Charles  O'Connor,  John  Kelly,  Judge 
Brady,  and  many  prominent  citizens  and  prelates  of  the  last  genera- 
tion are  interred.  Next  oldest  are  SI.  Mary's  (near  Grand  St. 
Ferry);  St.  Joseph's,  St.  J  antes',  and  St.  Andrew' s.  Some  notable 
churches  are  Epiphany  (373  Second  Av.),  lately  presided  over  by  Dr. 
Burtsell ;  Iimnaculate  Conception  (505  E.  14th  St.),  where  the  Rev. 
John  Edwards  is  pastor ;  St.  Joseph's  (59  Sixth  Av.),  the  parish  of 
the  late  Father  Farrell,  celebrated  as  an  anti-slavery  preacher  and 
writer  before  and  during  the  Civil  War.  Churches  distinguished  by 
race  are:  Mount  Carmel  (447  E.  115th  St.),  Italian;  St.  Benedict 
the  Moor  (210  Bleecker  St.),  African  ;  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (127  W. 
23d  St.),  French;  Inunaculate  Conception  (Morrisania),  St.  Joseph's 
(E.  87th  St.  near  First  Av.),  St.  Jo.^eph's  (Ninth  Av.  and  125th  St.), 
St.  Mary  Magdalen  (17th  St.  and  Av.  B),  German  ;  and  St.  Stan- 
islaus'  (43  Stanton  St.),  Polish,  Vicar-General  Mooney's  church,  is 
that  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (447  W.  51st  St.);  and  Dr.  Brann's  is  5/. 
Agnes  (143  E.  43d  St.).  The  Jesuits,  besides  the  magnificent  new 
church  of  St.  Ignatius  (84th  St.  and  Park  Av.),  have  an  imposing 
church  and  college  dedicated  to  St.  Francis  Xavier  in  i6th  St.  near 
Sixth  Av. ;  and  the  Dominican's  church  is  St.  Vincent  Ferrer,  Lex- 
ington Av.  and  66th  St.  All  Saints,  Madison  Av.,  corner  E.  129th 
St.,  is  the  most  noted  R.  C.  church  in  Harlem  ;  but  the  most  fashion- 
able church  of  the  city,  next  to  the  Cathedral,  is  probably  St. 
Stephe7ts,  149  E.  28th  St.,  formerly  in  charge  of  Doctor  McGlynn,  of 
which  Dr.  T.  F.  Cusock  is  now  pastor. 

THE  CATHEDRAL. 

The  Cathedral  on  Fifth  Av. ,  between  50th  and  51st  Sts. ,  should  not 
be  omitted  from  the  list  of  places  strangers  ought  to  visit  in  New 
York.  Its  projector  was  the  late  Archbishop  John  Hughes,  and  the 
architect  was  James  Renwick.  All  the  designing  and  execution  of 
the  work,  mechanical  and  artistic,  was  done  in  New  York,  except  cer- 
tain adornments,  hereafter  mentioned.  The  corner-stone  w^as  laid 
on  August  15,  1858,  in  the  presence  of  100,000  persons,  who  had  room 
to  stand  on  the  adjacent  lots,  then  vacant.  On  May  25,  1879,  the 
structure  was  dedicated  by  Cardinal  McCloskey,  who  died  in  1885. 

From  an  elaborate  account  written  by  the  architect,  we  learn  that 
this  cathedral  is  an  example  c£  the  decorated  and  geometric  style  of 


CHURCHES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK.  129 


Gothic  architecture  which  prevailed  in  Europe  from  1275  to  1400,  and 
of  which  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  and  the  nave  of  Westminister  are 
advanced  exponents;  and  that  although  Europe  can  boast  larger 
ones,  for  purity  of  style,  originality  of  design,  harmony  of  propor- 
tions, beauty  of  material,  and  finish  of  workmanship,  New  York 
Cathedral  stands  unsurpassed. 


Prom  tite  original  uchlteets'  diawing.  (  uurtesy  of  Heins  &  La  Parg«. 

CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  JOHN  THE  DIVINE. 


The  Protestant  Episcopal  Cathedral  now  being  built  on  Morning 
Side  Heights  at  113th  St.  will  be  unsurpassed  in  grandeur  by  any  in 
the  world.    Services  are  now  held  in  the  crypt. 


130  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  r^'EW  YORK  CITY. 


Other  Religious  Organizations. 


A  great  number  of  mission- 
ary and  religious  societies, 
both  non-sectarian  and  de- 
nominational, have  their 
headquarters  in  this  city. 
Some  of  these  are  national 
in  character ;  others  purely 
local.  The  great  center  of 
Protestant  evangelical  labor 
and  influence  of  this  kind  is 
Bible  House,  an  immense 
brick  edifice,  seven  stories 
high  and  occupying  a  whole 
block,  bounded  by  Fourth 
Av.,  8th  St.,  Third  Av.,  and 
9th  St.  This  building  was 
erected  in  1852  by  the  Ameri- 
can Bible  Society,  an  organi- 
zation which  began  to  print 
and  diffuse  the  Scriptures  in 
1816,  and  has  since  distrib- 
uted nearly  50,000,000  copies 
of  the  Bible,  or  important 
sections  of  it,  in  almost  every 
recognized  tongue.  Here  are 
'  the  headquarters  of  the  so- 
ciety and  a  printing  office, 
bindery,  etc.,  employing  500 
persons,  where  the  Scriptures  are  printed  in  many  languages. 

The  Young  Men*s  Christian  Association  in  New  York  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition  and  owns  a  large  building  at  215  W.  23d  St. 
The  interior  is  divided  into  a  reception-room,  reading-room,  parlors, 
lecture  and  concert  hall  (with  a  seating  capacity  of  1,400),  lecture- 
rooms,  class-rooms,  library,  gymnasium,  bowling  alley,  and  baths. 
On  the  top  floor  artists'  studios  are  rented.  The  building  is  open 
to  visitors  all  day,  the  library  may  be  used  by  strangers,  and  reli- 
gious gatherings  are  held  daily.    The  association  sustains  several 


YOUNG  MEN'S  CHRISTIAN  ASSOCIATION-. 
23cl  Street  Branch. 


CHURCHES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK, 


131 


branches  in  Second  Av.  and  other  parts  of  the  city,  of  which  the 
most  notable  is  the  Railroad  branch,  which  occupies  a  handsome 
building  near  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  given  by  Cornelius  Vander- 
bilt.  The  Young  Men's  Institute  at  222-4  Bowery  and  the  West  Side 
branch  in  W.  57th  St.  are  worth  a  visit. 

The  Young  WomeH^s  Christian  Association  occupies  a  beautiful 
home  at  No.  7  E.  15th  St.,  and  devotes  itself  to  helping  in  every  way 
the  young  working  women  of  the  city.  It  has  a  library  and  many 
other  features  which  will  make  it  an  interesting  object  to  ladies  visit- 
ing the  city,  who  can  obtain  lodgings  and  restaurant  meals  here. 

The  Salvation  Army  has  its  American  headquarters  in  a  tall 
building  erected  in  1894  at  120  W.  14th  St.  It  has  other  halls  or 
stations  for  meetings,  residence,  etc.,  at  27th  St.  and  Third  Av.; 
Lexington  Av.  and  125th  St.;  323  Bleecker  St.j  etc. 

The  American  Volunteers,  who  seceded  from  the  Salvation  Army 
in  1895,  have  their  headquarters,  under  Ballington  Booth,  at  Fourth 
Av.  and  i6th  St.,  where  their  Gazette  is  published. 

Other  religious  institutions  having  houses  in  New  York  include  the 
following: 

The  Christian  Alliance  and  International  Missionary  Alliance, 
690  Eighth  Av.,  carries  on  evangelical  work  all  over  the  world.  The 
Inter7iatio7ial  Order  of  King^ s  Daughters  and  Sons,  an  unsectarian 
"religious  order  of  service,"  has  its  Central  Council  at  156  Fifth  Av. 
The  Brotherhood  of  St.  Andrew  (Protestant  Episcopal)  has  an  office 
at  281  Fourth  Av.  The  White  Cross  Society,  Dr.  L  F.  DaCosta, 
president,  is  at  224  Waverley  PI.  The  Door  of  Hope,  for  the  regen- 
eration of  fallen  women,  has  its  central  home  at  102  E.  61  st  St. 

Hospitals  and  Char/ties. 

Hospitals  and  Public  Charities. — New  York  is  justly  proud  of  its 
hospitals,  and  any  stranger  suffering  illness  or  accident  in  the  city 
ought  at  once  to  place  himself  in  one  of  them  rather  than  remain  at  a 
hotel  or  boarding-house. 

Bellevue. — This  is  the  most  widel}^  known  hospital  in  America.  It 
stands  at  the  foot  of  E.  26th  St.,  and  is  a  "  long,  grayish,  four-story, 
prison-like  structure,  situated  in  a  block  which  extends  to  the  East 
River,  and  is  inclosed  by  a  high,  forbidding  stone  wall.  It  was 
established  in  1826,  and  Is  under  control  of  the  Department  of 
Charities  which  is  permitted  to  expend  upon  it  about  $100,000  a  year. 
For  many  years  it  has  been  famous  for  the  high  medical  and  surgical 
skill  of  which  it  is  the  theater,  its  faculty  embracing  many  leadiwp: 


132 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


members  of  the  profession  in  the  city."  Admission  of  patients 
(between  lo  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m.),  is  procurable  upon  the  recommenda- 
tion of  a  physician,  but  contagious  diseases  are  refused;  accidents 
and  sudden  illness,  at  any  time  of  day  or  night.  Hours  for  visitors, 
from  II  a.  m  to  3  p.  m.  Withm  the  grounds  is  the  Bellevue  Hos- 
pital Medical  College,  founded  in  1861;  it  has  taken  a  high  rank, 
and  has  now  about  500  students. 

The  Morgue  is  another  object  of  gruesome  interest  at  Bellevue. 
It  is  a  small,  one-story  building.  In  an  inner  room,  protected  by  a 
partition  of  glass,  the  unknown  and  unclaimed  dead  lie  outstretched, 
almost  nude,  upon  marble  slabs,  and  under  the  drip  of  icy  water.  ^ 

^Near  Bellevr.e  is  the  Emergency  Hospital,  223  E.  26th  St.,  for  the 
relief  of  persons  taken  suddenly  ill,  and  women  on  their  way  to 
Maternity  Hospital.  Other  emergency  hospitals  are  Gouverneur, 
in  Gouverneur  Slip;  the  Fordham  Reception  Hospital,  2456  Valen- 
tine Av.,  and  the  House  of  Relief,  67  Hudson  St. 

The  New  York  Hospital  is  next  in  popularity,  and  the  oldest  in 
the  city.  The  office  and  residence  is  at  No.  8  W.  i6th  St.  But  in 
1877  there  was  opened  in  the  rear  of  this  office,  a  magnificent  struc- 
ture facing  W.  15th  St.  (near  Fifth  Av.),  having  every  modern 
device  for  health  and  comfort.  This  hospital  also  maintains  a  branch 
house  of  relief,"  for  cases  of  accident  or  sudden  illness,  at  67  Hud- 
son St.  This  branch,  as  well  as  the  main  establishment,  has  ambu- 
lances, and  gives  free  treatment  in  emergency  cases. 

Other  Hospitals. — Roosevelt,  at  59th  St.  and  Ninth  Av.,  is  con- 
structed on  the  pavilion  plan,  and  is  of  great  size  and  excellence. 
St.  Luke's  Hospital^  on  Morningside  Heights,  is  under  the  care  of 
the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  but  makes  no  distinction  as  to 
its  patients.  Another  great  semi-denominational  hospital  is  the 
Presbyterian,  Madison  Av.  and  70th  St.,  where  nine-tenths  of  the 
patients  pay  no  money.  Several .  hospitals  and  dispensaries  are 
under  Roman  Catholic  auspices,  such  as  St.  Vincenfs,  149  W.  nth 
St.  (visitors,  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  3  to  5  p.  m.);  St.  Francis\  605 
5th  St.,  with  St.  foseph' s,  a  branch  of  the  same,  in  Carmansville  ;  and 
St.  Elizabeth' s^  415  W.  51st  St.  No  distinction  as  to  religion  or  race 
is  made  between  applicants  in  any  of  these  institutions.  Several 
hospitals  are  intended  especially  for  women  and  children,  the  largest 
of  which  is  the  Woman's  Hospital  of  the  State  of  New  York,  which 
receives  many  paying  patients  from  other  States. 


CHURCHES  AND  BENEVOLENT  WORK. 


133 


The  institutions  over  which  the  Departments  of  Charities  and  Cor- 
rection have  control  are  on  islands  in  the  East  River,  whose  large 
buildings  are  so  conspicuous  in  passing  up  or  down  that  river  in  a 
steamboat.  The  most  important  and  most  southern  of  the  group  is 
BlackwelV s  Island,  the  lower  end  of  which  is  opposite  50th  St. 
Upon  it  are  the  great  penitentiary,  to  which  go  offenders  convicted 
in  the  police  courts  and  reported  as  "  sent  to  the  island;"  also  the 
almshouse,  workhouse,  several  asylums,  special  hospitals,  and  the 
great  Charity  Hospital. 

Ward's  Island,  next  above,  contains  the  insane  asylum  and  some 
other  buildings,  and  the  institutions  for  the  care  of  sick  or  incapable 
immigrants. 

Randall's  Island,  north  of  Ward's  and  at  the  mouth  of  Harlem 
River,  contains  the  idiot  asylum  and  several  hospitals  and  schools 
for  children.  On  Hart's  Island  is  another  insane  asylum;  and  on 
North  Brother  Island  the  hospitals  for  contagious  diseases. 

Private  Philanthropies. —  The  Charity  Organizatwjt  Society, 
composed  of  the  representatives  of  many  of  the  charitable  associa- 
tions in  the  city,  exercises  a  general  watchfulness  over  philanthropic 
labors  in  New  York,  and  enables  efforts  toward  doing  good  and  sup- 
pressing evil  to  gain  the  strength  of  united  and  organized  direction. 
The  State  Charities  Aid  Associatiori  supervises  philanthropic  work 
throughout  the  whole  State,  and  promotes  reforms  by  legislative 
means  and  otherwise.  In  New  York  County  there  are  committees  to 
visit  the  various  departments  of  Bellevue  and  other  hospitals  and  the 
institutions  for  the  poor  and  insane  on  Ward's,  Blackwell's,  Randall's, 
and  Hart's  islands.  Another  committee  is  the  managing  board  ol 
the  Training  School  for  Nurses;  and  it  is  a  branch  of  this  association 
which  has  placed  the  big  boxes  seen  in  ferry  houses  and  depots  for 
the  reception  of  the  newspapers,  books,  and  magazines  which  you 
have  finished  reading.  The  publications  collected  every  day  are 
distributed  not  only  to  hospitals  and  other  institutions,  but  also  to 
lighthouses  and  lonely  life-savmg  stations.  These  two  supervisory 
societies  work  cordially  together  and  do  immense  service;  and  the 
office  of  both  is  in  the  magnificent  building  on  the  corner  of  Fourth 
Av.  and  22d  St.,  erected  by  John  S.  Kennedy  in  1893  as  a  headquar 
ters  for  benevolent  societies  and  agencies. 

Of  the  private  institutions  for  general  assistance  to  the  poor,  none 
are  more  widely  known  than  the  Five  Points  House  of  Indicstry 
and  the  Five  Points  Mission,  which  stand  across  the  street  from 


134 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


each  other  at  the  Five  Points,  which  is  only  a  short  walk  from  Broad- 
way, through  Worth  St.  Both  were  established  about  1850,  when 
that  locality  was  the  most  vicious  in  the  city.  Now  it  is  safe,  quiet, 
and  reasonably  clean;  and  these  missions,  more  than  anything  else, 
are  entitled  to  credit  for  the  change.  Both  of  them  assist  the  desti- 
tute of  all  classes,  and  find  enough  to  occupy  them  within  a  very  few 
blocks.  They  support  missionaries  among  the  tenement-house 
people,  provide  food,  clothing,  and  necessaries  for  applicants  thought 
worthy;  maintain  large  schools,  and  provide  for  the  health,  educa- 
tion, etc.,  of  great  numbers  of  poor  and  neglected  children,  hundreds 
of  whom  are  sent  annually  to  homes  in  the  interior  of  the  country. 
The  mission  is  now  enjoying  a  new  and  much  enlarged  building. 
The  Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor  (105 
E.  22d  St.),  assists  20,000  or  more  carefully  investigated  cases 
annually.  The  Hebrew  Society  for  the  Improvement  of  the  Sani- 
tary Condition  of  the  Poor  (103  W.  55th  St.)  is  another  noteworthy 
agency  in  ameliorating  the  suffering  in  over-crowded  tenements. 

The  long  list  of  special  asylums  and  societies  for  the  benefit  of 
special  classes  of  unfortunates,  as  the  blind,  deaf-mutes,  orphans, 
etc. ,  can  not  be  given  here.  Lists  of  them  can  be  found  in  the  C.ty 
Directory,  or  in  the  special  Directory  of  the  Charity  Org.  Society. 
A  few  words  should  be  spared,  however,  in  reference  to  the  group  of 

Humane  Societies.  —  Of  these  the  most  widely  known  is  the  Society 
for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals,  founded  by  the  late 
Henry  Bergh,  for  it  has  branches  in  all  principal  cities  in  the  United 
States  and  Canada.  Its  headquarters  are  now  in  a  handsome  stone 
edifice  at  the  corner  of  Madison  Av.  and  26th  St.,  where  Our 
A^iimal  Friends  is  also  published.  There  is  an  agency  in  Brooklyn . 
The  object  of  the  society  is  the  enforcement  of  the  laws  relating 
to  the  protection  of  and  to  prevent  cruelty  to  animals  in  all 
parts  of  the  United  States.  It  has  a  staff  of  officers,  uniformed  much 
like  policemen,  who  patrol  the  streets  and  have  power  to  make  arrests, 
and  whose  badge  is  a  large  silver  shield  stamped  with  the  seal  and 
name  of  the  society.  It  also  maintains  a  number  of  ambulances  in 
which  disabled  horses  are  removed  from  any  place  where  they  may 
fall  to  a  place  where  they  may  be  cured. 

The  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Children  is  a 
powerful  organization  now  housed  in  the  splendid  new  building  lately 
erected  for  it  at  23d  St.  and  Fourth  Av.  by  Elbridge  T.  Gerry,  its 
president.    Its  obiect  is  the  enforcement  of  laws  relating  to  children. 


CtiURCHES  AND  BENEVOLt:NT  WORK.  135 


their  protection  against  and  rescue  from  oppression  and  evil  influ- 
ences, and  their  help  when  in  need. 

The  Society  for  the  Suppression  of  Vice  is  managed  by  Mr. 
Anthony  Comstock,  and  directs  its  attention  mainly  to  the  detection 
and  seizure  of  obscene  literature  and  the  punishment  of  offenders 
under  the  laws  against  gambling;  office,  41  Park  Row.  The  Society 
for  the  Prevention  of  Crime  is  presided  over  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Parkhurst  and  has  a  very  similar  scope;  office,  105  E.  22d  St.  Other 
important  philanthropic  associations  are:  Actors'  Fund,  112  W.  42d 
St.;  Baptist  Home  Mission,  11 1  Fifth  Av. ;  Female  Guardian  Society 
and  Home  for  the  Friendless,  29  E.  29th  St. ;  Kindergarten  Society,  70 
Fifth  Av. ;  Sabbath  Union,  203  Broadway;  Seamen's  Friend  Society, 
76  Wall  St.;  Sunday  School  Union,  iii  Fifth  Av.;  Association  for 
Befriending  Women  and  Young  Girls,  136  Second  Av.;  Association 
Fraterna  Italiana,  64  S.Washington  Sq. ;  Bowery  Mission,  55  Bowery; 
Catholic  Sailors*  Friends,  178  Christopher  St.;  Cercle  Francais 
L'Amitie,  440  Sixth  Av.;  Children's  Aid  Society,  105  E.  22d  St. ;  City 
Vigilance  League,  105  E.  22d  St.;  Civil  Service  Reform  Association, 
79  Wall  St.;  College  Settlement  Association,  95  Rivington  St.; 
Consumers' League,  120  E.  34th  St.;  Lutheran  Emigrant  Mission, 
8  State  St.;  Evangelical  Alliance,  105  E.  22dSt. ;  German  Missions, 
6  and  27  State  St.;  Irish  Emigrant  Society,  51  Chambers  St. ;  Jewish 
Immigrants  Protective  Society,  210  E.  11 8th  St.;  Ladies'  Health  Pro- 
tective Association,  105  E.  22d  St. ;  Legal  Aid  Society,  239  Broadway; 
Working  Girls'  Societies,  244  W.  26th  St.;  Penny  Provident  Fund,  loi 
E.  22d  St.;  Provident  Loan  Society;  279  Fourth  Av. ;  Typothetse,  320 
Broadway;  United  Hebrew  Charities,  356  Second  Av. ;  Working 
Women's  Protective  Union,  312  W.  54th  St. 


IX. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS, 
LIBRARIES,  ETC. 

Public  Schools, 

The  public  school  system  of  the  city  consists  of  graded  schools, 
evening  schools,  corporate  schools  (industrial  schools,  reformatories, 
orphan  asylums,  etc.),  the  nautical  school  on  the  St,  Mary,  the 
Normal  College  and  the  College  of  the  City  of  New  York,  and 
several  high  schools,  notably  that  for  boys  at  60  West  13th  St.  The 
total  now  exceeds  400  schools,  and  it  is  constantly  being  amplified, 
yet  loud  complaints  are  heard  of  the  inadequacy  of  the  accommoda- 
tions. The  whole  system  is  under  control  of  the  Board  of  Education, 
at  490  Park  A  v.  It  comprises  every  phase  of  school  life,  from  the 
kindergarten  and  truant  schools  to  the  College  of  the  City  of  New 
York  and  the  Normal  College  for  training  teachers,  and  has  to 
provide  for  not  less  than  half  a  million  ordinary  pupils,  daily,  as  well 
as  for  the  necessary  instructors  and  buildings. 

The  attendance  at  school  of  children  between  the  ages  of  8  and  12 
years  is  compulsory  for  the  entire  school  year  ;  that  of  children  be- 
tween 12  and  16  for  only  a  part  of  the  year,  if  otherwise  employed 
and  wage-earners.  Free  evening  and  vacation  schools  are  also  sus- 
tained by  the  city.  The  school  buildings  are  distributed  all  over 
town,  and  many  of  them  will  seem  very  dreary  abodes  to  visiting 
teachers,  but  the  situation  is  a  necessity  of  city-crowding.  Such 
persons  will  find  schools  which  in  appearance,  equipment,  discipline, 
and  thoroughness  will  well  repay  a  visit,  at  104th  St.  and  Amsterdam 
Av.,  and  at  134th  St.  and  Lenox  Av. 

The  College  of  the  City  of  New  York  is  open  free  to  all  young 
men  residing  in  this  city,  and  prepared  at  the  city  schools,  and  it 
offers  both  a  literary-classical  and  a  scientific  course,  each  four  years 
in  length.  There  is  also  a  mechanical  course  of  instruction,  and  a 
post-graduate  course  in  engineering.     The  total  number  of  students 

136 


138  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


approaches  900,  only  one-third  of  whom  are  engaged  in  classical 
studies.  This  college  occupies  the  large,  turreted  brick  building  on 
the  southeastern  corner  of  23d  St.  and  Lexington  Av.,  which  contains 
a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  a  library  of  25,000  volumes,  and  much 
laboratory  apparatus. 

The  Normal  College,  for  young  women,  is  a  free  institution 
sustained  by  the  city,  corresponding  with  the  last  mentioned,  and 
intended  especially  for  training  girls  to  serve  as  teachers.  It  has 
an  immense  monastic-looking  building  in  69th  St.,  be+Vv'een  Fourth 
and  Lexington  Avs.,  which  cost  $500,000.  Most  of  its  graduates 
enter  the  service  of  the  city  as  teachers.  The  curriculum  includes 
Latin,  physics  and  chemistry,  German,  natural  science,  French, 
drawing,  music,  etc.  Some  years  ago  a  five  years'  classical  course 
was  inaugurated,  which  entitles  students  at  graduation  to  the  degree 
of  A.  B.  A  model  or  training  school  is  erected  in  the  rear,  in  which 
pupil-teachers  have  an  opportunity  to  supplement  their  theoretic 
studies  with  the  practical.  The  morning  exercises  in  the  chapel  at 
9  o'clock  are  open  to  the  public.  Take  Fifth  Av.  stages  or  Fourth 
or  Lexington  Av.  electric-cars  to  69th  St.,  or  the  Third  Av.  El.  Ry. 
to  67th  St. 

All  of  the  above  mentioned  schools  and  institutions  are  free,  and 
are  under  control  of  the  Board  of  Education. 

Columbia  University. 

Columbia  University  is  the  foremost  institution  of  higher  learning 
in  New  York,  and  one  of  the  foremost  in  the  United  States.  It  began 
in  1754,  as  King's  College,  under  a  charter  from  the  English  crown  and 
*  7  aid  of  money  raised  mainly  in  England,  The  Trinity  Church 
corporation  took  an  interest  in  it  from  the  start,  and  presently  made 
it  a  grant  of  land  between  what  is  now  College  Place  and  North 
River,  from  the  sale  or  rental  of  which  a  large  part  of  the  Univer- 
sity's income  has  since  been  derived.  During  the  Revolution  its  ses- 
sions were  interrupted  and  its  buildings  appropriated  to  the  use  of 
the  troops.  After  that  war  the  Legislature  of  the  State  made  a  grant 
of  land  and  reincorporated  it  as  Columbia  College,  under  a  board  of 
regents,  afterward  changed  to  twenty -four  self -perpetuating  trustees. 
The  institution  erected  buildings  on  College  Place  and  occupied 
them  until  1857,  when  the  College  was  moved  to  its  third  home 
between  49th  and  50th  Sts.,  east  of  Madison  Av.  This  was  outgrown 
in  a  generation  or  so,  and,  in  1897,  was  abandoned  for  what  is  con- 


EDUCA  TIONAL  INSTITUTIONS,  LIBRARIES,  ETC,  139 


sidered  a  permanent  home  on  Morningside  Heights.  The  grounds 
now  cover  nearly  eighteen  acres  between  the  Boulevard  and  Amster- 
dam Avenue,  from  ii6th  to  120th  St.;  it  was  formerly  occupied  by 
the  Bloomingdale  Insane  Asylum,  and  cost  $2,000,000.  The  build- 
ings occupy  a  high,  leveled  site,  facing  southerly,  and  ultimately  will 
form  a  quadrangle,  nearly  surrounding  the  Library.  Only  a  few  now 
exist.  The  Library ^  whose  great  gray  dome  is  a  stately  feature  in 
the  landscape,  was  erected  at  the  cost  (about  $1,000,000)  of  Seth  Low, 
President  of  the  University  1 890-1 902,  as  a  memorial  to  his  father, 
the  late  A.  A.  Low  of  this  city.  It  is  a  cruciform  building,  having 
an  Ionic  colonnade  in  front  and  a  noble  entry  between  pillars  of  dark, 
polished  Irish  marble.  The  interior  is  a  rotunda  open  to  the  dome, 
which  will  be  used  as  a  reading  room,  while  the  surrounding  parts  of 
the  building  are  devoted  to  the  books,  and  to  various  other  purposes, 
including,  at  present,  many  recitation-rooms.  The  sixteen  pillars  of 
the  rotunda  are  of  Vermont  syenite,  with  gilded  Ionic  capitals.  In 
the  rear  of  this  building  is  the  beginning  of  University  Hall,  the  base- 
ment stories  only  of  which  are  finished.  These  contain  the  power- 
house, a  tier  of  business  offices,  and  the  extensive  and  highly  modern 
gymnasium  and  athletic  appliances.  A  noble  superstructure  is  to  be 
erected  here,  containing  various  offices  and  halls,  and  the  academic 
theater,  occupying  the  semicircular,  apse-like  rear  part.  Four  lab- 
oratory buildings  are  now  completed  and  in  service.  Schermerhorn 
Hall,  next  east  of  University  Hall,  is  devoted  to  biological  sciences, 
and  contains,  besides  laboratories  and  lecture-rooms,  an  interest' 
ing  museitm  of  natural  history,  open  to  the  public.  Beside  it  are 
the  Physics  Building,  Earl,  South,  and  Fayerweather  Halls, 
Havemeyer  Hall,  devoted  to  chemistry,  and  the  Engineering  Building, 
containing  the  machinery  needed  in  practical  instruction.  The  outer 
(Boulevard)  front  of  the  latter  building  bears  a  spirited  bronze 
memorial  tablet,  modeled  by  James  E.  Kelly,  to  Knowlton  and  the 
Battle  of  Harlem  Heights,  which  was  lought  about  here  Sept.  16,  1776. 

The  five  ''colleges"  or  departments  of  the  University  now  estab- 
lished are:  i.  Arts.  2.  Science.  3.  Law.  4.  Political  Science.  5. 
Medicine.  The  College  of  Arts  is  the  oldest  and  central  department, 
and  embraces  the  classical  and  literary  curriculum  usual  in  a  collegi- 
ate course  of  four  years.  The  Department  of  Science  now  embraces 
all  that  used  to  constitute  the  almost  separate  School  of  Mines," 
long  famous  in  the  history  of  Columbia,  and  so  much  of  the  othei' 
courses  as  touch  its  province.    A  four  years'  course  will  give  degrees 


140  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


of  Mining  Engineer,  Civil  Engineer,  Metallurgical  Engineer,  and 
Bachelor  of  Pliilosophy.  For  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Philosophy- 
there  is  a  post-graduate  course  of  two  years.  The  Law  School  has 
quarters  in  the  Library,  and  a  large  attendance;  its  course  is  two 
years.  The  Depariment  of  Political  Science  offers  a  three-years* 
course  in  the  broadest  scope  of  political  economy,  conferring  the 
degree  of  Doctor  of  Philosophy.  The  Departinent  of  Medicine  is 
better  known  as  "The  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons."  It 
occupies  extensive  buildings  on  6oth  St.,  between  Ninth  and  Tenth 
Avs.,  close  to  Roosevelt  Hospital,  in  which  (and  in  other  hospitals) 
much  of  the  instruction  is  given.  These  buildings,  and  the  affiliated 
Maternity  Hospital,  near  by,  are  due  to  the  gifts  of  various  members 
of  the  Vanderbilt  family;  while  Edwin  Gould,  of  the  class  of  '88,  has 
erected  for  the  University  a  fine  boat-house  at  the  foot  of  West  115th 
St.  (North  River).  The  University  now  has  some  60  members  of  the 
faculty  and  nearly  2,000  students. 

The  Barnard  Annex  is  the  name  of  a  course  of  study  for  women, 
parallel  with  that  of  undergraduates  in  the  School  of  Arts,  for  which 
a  fine  building  has  been  prepared  at  the  Boulevard  and  120th  St.  Its 
•graduates  receive  diplomas  equivalent  to  University  degrees. 

The  Teacher's  College  and  Horace  Mann  School  is  a  large  insti- 
tution on  the  north  side  of  120th  St.,  for  instruction  w4th  special 
reference  to  preparation  for  teaching;  and  it  is  closely  affiliated  with 
Columbia. 

University  of  the  City  of  New  York. 

This  institution  is  stronger  than  its  comparatively  narrow  reputa- 
tion would  lead  an  outsider  to  suppose.  Its  lack  of  recognition  in 
the  past  is  largely  due  to  the  fact  that  its  quarters  have  been  scat- 
tered, so  that  it  has  made  little  visible  impression  by  means  of 
imposing  halls  and  a  broad  campus,  as  is  the  wont  of  colleges.  Its 
original  and  main  building  was  the  castellated  and  historic  structure 
which  had  stood  for  sixty  yeai  J  at  the  northeastern  corner  of  Wash- 
ington Square;  but  that  was  demolished  in  1894,  and  is  now  replaced 
oy  a  tall,  modern  structure,  whose  top  floors  only  will  be  occupied  by 
the  University.  Here  have  been  fixed  the  offices  of  the  administra- 
tion^ the  Law  School  (hitherto  one  of  the  strong  points),  and  the 
School  of  Pedagogy. 

The  various  undergraduate  schools  and  departments  of  Arts  and 
Sciences  which  form  the  nucleus  of  the  institution,  however,  are 


ED  OCA  no IV A  L  INS  TI TU  TIONS,  LIBRA  RIES,  E  TC.  141 


quartered  in  a  series  of  new  buildings,  approaching  completion,  upon 
an  extensive  scale,  within  an  elevated  park-like  inclosure  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Harlem  River,  near  Kingsbridge,  which  include  a  Hall 
of  Fame,  500  feet  long,  built  about  the  Library,  containing  150  panels 
in  which  ultimately  will  be  fixed  bronze  tablets,  commemorating  great 
and  famous  Americans.    It  was  the  gift  of  Miss  Helen  Gould. 

The  U7iion  Theological  Seminary,  now  in  academic  relation  to 
the  University,  occupies  a  building  at  Fourth  Av.  and  69th  St.  ^This 
widely  known  school  was  founded  in  1836,  and  is  the  principal  place 
of  training  for  ministers  of  the  Presbyterian  church,  but  its  students 
may  come  from  any  evangelical  denomination,  so  long  as  they  can 
show  a  certificate  of  good  church  standing.  The  library  is  founded 
upon  a  gift  of  13,000  volumes  by  L.  Van  Ess,  and  now  contains  about 
00,000  books  and  nearly  50,000  pamphlets  and  manuscripts.  As 
would  be  expected  it  is  very  rich  in  rare  and  ancient  theological 
books  and  MSS.,  specimens  of  early  Bibles,  first  printings,  and  rare 
tracts. 

The  Faculty  of  Medicine  occupies  spacious  buildings  at  the  foot 
of  E.  26th  St.,  and  contiguous  to  Bellevue  Hospital  (which  see). 
These  buildings  (whose  two  amphitheaters,  together,  will  seat  1,000 
pupils)  are  modern  and  admirably  adapted  to  their  purposes.  At- 
tached is  the  Loomis  Laboratory,  the  cost  of  which  ($100,000)  was 
defrayed  by  an  unknown  friend  on  condition  that  his  name  be  kept 
secret,  and  the  laboratory  be  directed  and  named  after  Dr.  Alfred 
Loomis.  Much  of  the  instruction  is  given  in  the  wards  and  lecture 
rooms  of  Bellevue,  and  it  is  consequently  of  a  very  practical  character. 

Misce/faneous  /nsfitufions. 

The  Cooper  Union,  or  Institute,  is  an  enormous  building  at  the 
head  of  the  Bowery,  where  Fourth  Av.  branches  off  to  the  left  and 
Third  Av.  to  the  right.  It  was  erected  by  the  late  Peter  Cooper  in 
1857,  at  a  cost  of  $630,000,  and  endowed  with  $300,000  for  the  support 
of  the  free  reading-room  and  library.  The  purpose  is  philanthropic, 
and  embraces  day  and  evening  schools  of  various  kinds.  Besides  those 
which  have  a  regular  academic  course,  there  are  art  schools  for  men 
and  women,  free  school  of  telegraphy  and  of  type- writing  for  women, 
and  other  special  departments.  As  the  thousands  of  pupils  who 
attend  these  classes  are  drawn  almost  entirely  from  the  people  who 
must  work,  all  of  the  instruction  tends  to  the  practical.  (See  p.  187.) 
10 


142  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Roman  Catholic  Institutions. — Of  these  the  leading  college  is  St. 
Francis  Xavier's,  whose  beautiful  new  building  next  to  St.  F.  Xavier's 
Church,  in  West  i6th  St.,  near  Sixth  Av.,  is  one  of  the  architectural 
ornaments  of  the  city.  This  is  a  day  college,  in  charge  of  the  Jesuit 
Fathers,  and  numbers  about  450  students,  who  come  daily  from  their 
homes  to  the  class-rooms.  It  has  a  reference  library  of  20,000  volumes 
and  a  small  circulating  library.  Another  a.ble  in stitution  under  charge 
of  the  same  pedagogical  order  is  St.  John's  College,  at  Fordham,  a 
station  on  the  Harlem  R.  R.,  at  the  extreme  northeastern  edge  of  the 
city,  where  the  spacious  and  beautiful  grounds  of  Rose  Hill  surround 
the  school.  Manhattan  College  is  a  third  strong  R.  C.  school,  situated 
in  Manhattanville  and  reached  by  the  cars.  The  great  Academy  of 
the  Sacred  Heart,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  known  Catholic  schools 
for  girls,  is  also  in  Manhattanville;  and  another  noted  convent  school 
is  that  of  Mt.  St.  Vincent,  on  the  Hudson  River,  above  Riverdale, 
a  branch  of  which  is  maintained  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  in  17th  St., 
between  Fifth  and  Sixth  Avenues. 


Libraries  and  Reading-Rooms. 

The  New  York  Public  Library  at  present  includes  two  reference 

branches  —  the  Astor  and  the  Lenox  —  and  the  twenty-eight  branch 
libraries  of  the  circulating  department  enumerated  on  following  pages. 
The  reference  branches  will  be  replaced  by  the  large  central  building 
now  in  process  of  erection  for  the  library  by  the  city  on  Bryant  Park, 
fronting  on  Fifth  Av.  The  official  name  of  the  library  is  The  New 
York  Public  Library,  Astor,  Lenox,  and  Tilden  foundations."  The 
consolidation  of  these  foundations  was  effected  under  the  State  laws 
of  1892  and  1895,  and  in  December  of  that  year  Dr.  John  Shaw 
Billings,  U.  S.  A.  (retired),  was  chosen  director.  At  the  time  of  the 
consolidation  the  Astor  Library  owned  its  site  and  buildings  in  Astor 
Place,  had  an  endowment  fund  of  about  $941,000,  producing  an 
annual  income  of  about  $47,000,  and  contained  267,147  volumes. 
The  Lenox  Library  owned  its  site  and  building  on  Fifth  Av. ,  had  an 
endowment  fund  of  $505,500,  producing  an  annual  income  of  $20,500- 
and  contained  about  86,000  volumes.  The  Tilden  Trust  possessed 
Mr.  Tilden's  private  library  in  his  late  residence,  containing  about 
20,000  volumes,  and  an  endowment  fund  estimated  at  $2,000,000, 
making  the  total  number  of  volumes  in  the  New  York  Public  Library 
373,147  and  the  total  endowment  fund  about  $3,446,500. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS.  LIBRARIES,  ETC.  143 


The  Astor  Branch  is  the  most  popular  consulting  library  in  the 
city.  It  occupies  a  substantial  building  of  brown  stone  and  brick, 
in  the  Romanesque  style,  and  now  contains  the  office  of  the  director:, 
of  the  Public  Library  and  the  other  administrative  offices  except  thosu 
of  the  circulating  department.  It  was  founded  by  the  will  of  John 
Jacob  Astor,  who  died  in  1848,  leaving  $400,000  for  that  purpose. 
His  son,  William  B.  Astor,  added  upward  of  $550,000  to  this  endow- 
ment ;  and  his  grandson,  the  late  John  Jacob  Astor,  gave  about 
$700,000  more. 

This  library  is  open  from  9  A.  m.  until  6  p.  m. — but  never  in  the 
evening— and  is  used  by  some  125,000  readers  of  all  types  annually, 
from  the  most  casual  idler  in  literature  to  the  most  learned  and  in- 
defatigable investigators.  Students  in  the  higher  schools  and  insti- 
tutions of  learning  and  active  journalists  form  a  large  class  of  its 
patrons.  Within  the  entrance,  on  the  ground  floor,  *  ^  a  large  hall 
adorned  by  marble  busts  of  Roman  heroes  copied  from  the  antique. 
Here  a  warden  requires  you  to  leave  in  his  care  any  books  or  packages 
you  may  be  carrying,  and  also  your  cane  or  umbrella,  and  he  gives 
you  a  check  for  them.  Ascending  the  marble  staircase  to  the  second 
floor,  you  arrive  in  the  lofty  central  hall  and  find  yourself  sur- 
rounded by  alcoves  of  books  supported  upon  galleries  and  rising  to 
a  great  height  on  every  side.  Right  and  left,  arches  open  into 
spacious  wings  of  similar  structure,  where  long  tables  and  scores  of 
armchairs  are  set  for  readers.  In  the  main  hall  some  tables  are 
especially  reserved  for  ladies,  but  there  is  no  impropriety  in  their 
going  into  the  other  rooms  if  they  please.  A  large  number  of  current 
periodicals  and  cyclopedic,  historical,  and  general  reference  works 
may  be  consulted  freely;  and  any  person,  by  writing  upon  the  small 
blank  furnished  him  the  titles  and  shelf -numbers  of  any  other  books, 
and  his  name  and  address,  can  have  the  use  during  the  day  of  as 
many  books  as  he  needs.  No  books  are  ever  lent  out  of  the  building 
Volumes  of  printed  catalogues  lie  near  the  office  desks,  and  also  an 
admirable  card  catalogue;  and  you  should  look  up  in  one  or  the  other 
of  these  the  name  of  each  book  asked  for,  in  order  to  put  upon  your 
'^ard  the  library's  "shelf-number,"  which  will  be  found  written  on 
the  catalogue  margin  opposite  each  title.  Having  handed  in  your 
slip,  you  wait  until  the  book  is  delivered  to  you.  The  Astor  Library 
is  well  lighted  through  the  roof,  and  is  well  warmed  and  ventilated; 
toilet-rooms  are  attached,  and  altogether  it  is  one  of  the  pleasantest 
places  for  study  in  the  country.    The  librarian  and  his  assistants  arf3 


144 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


not  only  learned,  but  full  of  kindness  in  assisting  readers;  and  they 
give  out  about  400,000  volumes  each  year— three-fourths  of  the  total 
number  of  books  now  possessed  by  the  Astor.  The  total  capacity  of 
the  upper  halls  is  about  300,000,  but  there  is  storage  for  200,000  more 
on  the  ground  floor.  Among  the  treasures  are  rare  MSS.  in  Greek 
and  Latin,  given  by  Mr.  Astor,  and  the  elephantine  volume  of  chants 
used  at  the  coronation  of  the  French  kings  for  many  years,  superbly 
illuminated  with  vignettes  by  well-known  early  French  artists. 

All  the  current  magazines  and  trade  journals  will  be  found  in  the 
south  hall,  and  back  volumes  may  be  had  on  application  to  the 
librarian  in  charge. 

The  Lenox  Branch  (Fifth  Av.  and  70th  St.)  is  a  treasure-house  of 
sculptures,  paintings,  ceramic  and  other  kinds  of  artistic  production 
(see  Art);  and  of  manuscripts,  rare  and  curious  specimens  of  early 
printing  and  binding,  and  costly  and  unusual  editions,  the  gift  to  the 
city  of  the  late  James  Lenox.  It  is  now  open  to  the  public  all  day 
for  study  or  reading,  and  contains  all  the  Public  Library  works  on 
certain  subjects,  as  music  and  early  American  history. 

The  building  was  begun  in  1870.  Of  the  most  precious  books,  a 
very  large  number  are  specimens  of  the  first  products  of  the  typo- 
graphic art,  first  editions.  Bibles,  Shakespeariana,  and  Americana. 
There  are  also  copies  of  every  known  edition  of  Walton's  "Angler," 
of  Bunyan's  "Pilgrim's  Progress,"  and  of  nearly  every  known  edition 
of  Milton.  A  great  number  of  exceedingly  valuable  MSS.  and  illu- 
minated books  on  vellum  are  present.  The  collection  of  Bibles 
includes  a  perfect  copy  of  the  so-called  ' '  Mazarin"  Bible — the  product 
of  Gutenburg  and  Faust  at  Mainz,  about  1445 — and  five  copies  of 
Eliot's  Indian  Bible. 

Examples  of  these  Bibles,  and  many  of  the  curiosities  further  men- 
tioned, are  displayed  in  glass  table-cases,  where  they  can  be  examined 
almost  as  well  as  if  held  in  the  hand.  These  cases  contain  specimens 
of  the  very  first  imprints  of  both  Europe  and  America.  There  are 
many  "block  books,"  for  example,  representing  the  stage  of  printing 
before  the  invention  of  movable  types,  when,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Chinese,  a  page  was  cut  on  a  wooden  block — among  them  two  copies 
of  the  "Biblia  Pauperum,"  a  small  folio  of  40  leaves,  the  most  cele- 
brated of  this  class  of  books  and  supposed  to  have  been  executed 
about  1430.  Caxton's  press  is  represented  by  no  less  than  seven  speci- 
mens, one  of  which  is  a  fragment  of  Fevre's  "Recuyell  of  the  Histo- 
ries of  Troye,"  issued  at  Bruges  about  1474,  being  the  first  book 


EDUCA  TIONAL  INSTITUTIONS,  LIBRARIES,  ETC.  145 


printed  in  the  English  language.  A  copy  of  this  has  been  sold  for 
over  l5,ooo.  There  are  also  copies  of  the  "Doctrina  Christiana,"  one 
of  the  earliest  products  of  the  Roman  Catholic  press  in  Mexico— the 
first  press  on  the  American  continent — and  of  the  "Bay  Psalm  Book," 
the  first  book  printed  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  dated 
Cambridge,  1640.  As  to  modern  books,  the  library  is  especially  rich  in 
bibliophilistic  gems,  fine  bindings,  and  books  of  illustrations  and  the 
illustrative  arts. 

Art  galleries  occupy  the  second  and  third  floors  and  contain  about 
150  pictures,  including  many  of  great  note.  Among  these  are  a  por- 
trait, considered  an  original,  of  John  Bunyan;  one  portrait  of  Wash- 
ington by  James  Peale,  three  by  Rembrandt  Peale,  and  one  (full 
length)  by  Gilbert  Stuart.  Here  is  Munkacsy's  great  picture,  "Blind 
Milton  Dictating  'Paradise  Lost,' "  which  was  the  masterpiece  of  the 
Paris  Exposition  of  1878,  and  has  been  so  often  engraved.  There  is 
one  Andrea  del  Sarto,  "Tobit  and  the  Angel";  one  Delaroche,  "The 
Field  of  Battle";  one  Gainsborough,  called  "A  Romantic  Woody 
Landscape";  one  Horace  Vernet,  "The  Siege  of  Saragossa";  sev- 
eral Wilkies,  Verboeckhovens,  Gilbert  Stuarts,  Reynoldses,  and  Les- 
lies; two  Copleys,  and  a  like  number  of  Turners.  The  Turners  are 
"A  Scene  on  the  French  Coast,  with  an  English  Ship  of  War 
Stranded,"  painted  in  1831;  and  "Staffa,  Fingal's  Cave,"  first  exhib- 
ited in  1832,  and  bought  from  the  artist  for  Mr.  Lenox  by  Leslie  in 
1845.  There  are  also  several  statues,  busts,  and  cases  of  pottery,  etc. 
Here  is  also  located  the  print  department  of  the  Public  Library. 

Circulating  Department.  This  includes  twenty-eight  branches  for 
the  free  circulation  of  books,  besides  a  department  of  traveling 
libraries,  having  altogether  on  their  shelves  about  half  a  million 
volumes  and  circulating  them  at  the  rate  of  about  four  million  a 
year.  The  names  and  locations  of  the  branches  are  as  follows: 

Arranged  in  order  of  location  from  South  to  North. 

^East  Broadway,  j>j  (Chatham  Sq.  Branch). 

East  Broadway,  igy  (East  Broadway  Branch). 

Eldridge  St, ,  184  (University  Settlement). 

Bond  St. ,  4Q  (Bond  St.  Branch). 

*iot/i  St,,jj/  East  (Tompkins  Sq.  Branch). 

Second  A  v.,  /jj  (Ottendorfer  Branch). 

ijth  St.,  2^1  /^/fj-/ ( Jackson  Sq.  Branch), 

22d  St.,  2JO  East  (Epiphany  Branch). 

♦Occupying  Carnegie  buildings. 


146  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


2,sd  St.,  I  JO  West  (Muhlenberg  Braneh). 

^4th  St.,       East  (34th  St.  Branch). 

40th  St. ,  507  West  (St.  Raphael  Branch). 

42d  St. ,  226  West  (George  Bruce  Branch). 

jot/z  St.,  I2J  East  (Cathedral  Branch). 

jist  St.,  46J  West  {Ssioved.  Heart  Branch). 

^gtk  St.,  iij  East  (59th  St.  Branch). 

"^dyth  St.,  328  East  (67th  St.  Branch). 

^Amsterdam  Av.,  igo  Riverside  Branch). 

j6th  St. ,  SS^  East  (Webster  Branch). 

^ygt/i  St. ,  222  East  (Yorkville  Branch). 

Broadway,  22yg  (St.  Agnes  Branch). 

Amsterdam  Av. ,       (Corner  86th  St. ). 

lootk  St. ,  206  West  (Bloomingdale  Branch). 

iiotk  St. ,  iy4  East  (Aguilar  Branch). 

i2jd  St.,j2  West  (The  Harlem  Library). 

^i2^th  St.,  224  East  (125th  St.  Branch). 

St.  Nicholas  Av.,  g22  (Washington  Heights  Branch). 

'^Tottenville,  Borough  of  Richmond  (Tottenville  Branch). 

Library  for  the  Blind,  121  West  gist  St. 

Traveling  Libraries,  igo  Amsterdam  Av.',  basement  entrance. 
Office  of  the  Department,  226  West  42d  St.    Telephone,  3934 
38th  St. 

Hours:  The  branches,  with  the  exceptions  noted  below,  are  open 
from  9  A.  M.  to  9  p.  M.  on  week  days. 

Branches  in  Carnegie  buildings  (at  present  the  Yorkville,  Chatham 
Sq. ,  125th  St.,  Tompkins  Sq.,  Tottenville,  67th  St.,  and  Riverside 
branches)  are  open  full  hours  on  all  legal  holidays. 

The  other  branches  are  closed  during  the  entire  day  on  New  Year's 
Day,  Decoration  Day,  the  Fourth  of  July,  Presidential  Election  Day, 
Thanksgiving  Day,  and  Christmas  Day;  after  6  p.  m.  on  Washing- 
ton's Birthday  and  Christmas  Eve  ;  and  on  Election  Day  (when  not 
Presidential)  after  5  p.  m. 

The  Library  for  the  Blind  is  open  on  Mondays,  AVednesdays, 
Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  from  i  p.  m.  to  4  p.  m. 

The  East  Broadway  Branch  is  closed  from  5  p.  m.  on  Fridays  till 
6  p.  M.  on  Saturdays  and  is  open  on  Sundays. 

The  branch  in  the  University  Settlement  Building  is  open  from 
1.30  to  5.30  and  7.30  to  9.30  p.  m. 

The  Epiphany  Branch  is  open  from  2.30  to  9  p.  M. 
♦Occupying  Carnegie  buildings. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS,  LIBRARIES,  ETC.  147 


Most  of  these  branches  were  acquired  by  consolidation.  The  New 
York  Free  Circulating  Library  (consolidated  in  1901)  furnished 
eleven,  the  Aguilar  (1903)  four,  the  Cathedral  (1905)  five,  and  other 
smaller  institutions  one  each.  In  igoi  Andrew  Carnegie  gave  the  city 
of  New  York  $5,200,000  for  the  erection  of  branch  libraries.  Of 
these,  fifty  are  to  be  erected  by  the  New  York  Public  Library,  all  in 
the  three  boroughs  of  Manhattan,  the  Bronx,  and  Richmond.  Up 
to  March  i,  1905,  seven  had  been  built  and  opened — namely,  those 
starred  in  the  foregoing  list— while  about  ten  others  were  in  course 
of  construction  and  about  twenty-five  sites  had  been  secured.  By 
the  condition  of  the  gift,  the  city  furnishes  sites  and  agrees  to  main- 
tain the  libraries,  which  are  constructed  and  administered  by  the 
Public  Library.  Each  of  the  Carnegie  buildings  contains  a  large 
«,dults'  circulating  room,  circulating  and  reading-room  for  children 
and  a  public  newspaper  and  periodical  reading-room. 

The  ofiice  of  the  circulating  department,  pending  the  completion 
of  the  Central  Library,  is  at  226  West  42d  St.  The  chief  of  the 
department  is  Arthur  E.  Bostwick,  Ph.  D. 

The  Cooper  Union  Library  and  Reading  Room  (three  minutes' 
walk  from  the  Astor  Library)  forms  one  of  the  strongest  features  of 
that  great  institution  {q.  v.),  and  one  which  Mr.  Cooper  felt  to  be  so 
important  that  he  endowed  it  with  a  fund  of  $300,000.  It  occupies  an 
immense  room  on  the  third  floor,  the  walls  of  which  are  lined  with 
shelves  of  books,  each  in  a  jacket  of  strong  paper.  Long  tables  are 
supplied  for  readers  of  books  and  magazines,  which  are  given  out  from 
a  desk,  on  deposit  of  the  metal  check  which  every  one  who  enters  must 
accept  and  must  return  when  he  leaves  the  room.  The  library  contains 
about  20,000  volumes,  principally  practical  and  instructive;  and  is 
noted  as  the  possessor  of  a  complete  set  of  both  the  old  and  new 
series  of  Patent  Office  reports,  which  are  consulted  yearly  by  almost 
2,000  persons.  Each  volume  has  been  carefully  indexed,  making 
them  invaluable  for  reference.  The  library  is  open  in  the  evening 
and  then  is  crowded  by  a  class  of  readers  w^ho  have  no  time  during 
the  day  to  spend  in  gathering  information  or  in  taking  intellectual 
amusement.  More  interesting  to  the  stranger,  however,  will  be  the 
sight  of  the  long  tables  and  racks  filled  with  newspapers  and  period- 
icals and  pored  over  by  crowds  of  men  and  boys,  generally  poorly 


148         HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


dressed,  often  dirty,  but  all  orderly,  quiet,  and  eager  to  read.  This 
is  one  of  the  sights  of  the  city,  and  the  visitor  will  easily  accept  the 
statement  that  between  450  and  460  newspapers  and  periodicals  are 
taken  in  here. 

Few  of  the  other  libraries  in  the  city  will  repay  a  visit  by  the 
casual  observer.  The  Apprentices',  18  W.  i6th  St.,  has  nearly 
100,000  volumes,  which  were  formerly  circulated  among  the  public, 
but  are  now  used  only  by  members„ 

The  Mercantile  Library  occupies  rooms  in  its  new  building  at 
Lafayette  Place  and  8th  St.,  and  owns  over  200,000  volumes  of 
general  interest,  new  books  being  added  as  fast  as  issued.  The 
ordinary  fee  is  $5  annually,  or  $3  for  six  months.  The  public  are 
admitted  only  to  the  outer  office,  which  contains  nothing  to  interest 
the  sight-seer.  Other  libraries  which  might  be  added  to  this  list 
would  interest  specialists  only  and  need  not  be  expatiated  upon  in 
this  book,  except  to  say  that  a  law  library  is  open  to  public  inspec- 
tion in  Rooms  1 16-122,  Post-office  Building.  Besides  more  than 
30,000  legal  works,  this  library  contains  portraits  of  Thomas  Addis 
Emmet,  Chancellor  Kent,  and  Judge  Greene  C.  Bronson,  and  busts 
of  James  T.  Brady  and  John  Anthon.  Among  the  books  are  many 
very  rare  copies  of  law  reports,  a  few  books  belonging  to  Alex- 
ander Hamilton  and  containing  numerous  entries  in  his  handwriting, 
a  note-book  of  Lord  Hardwicke,  and  the  cases  and  opinions  of 
Charles  O'Conor. 

The  Society  Library,  University  Place  and  12th  St.,  is  another 
large  private  circulating  library,  very  rich  in  books  of  art,  history, 
genealogy,  and  similar  lines,  and  containing  some  notable  portraits 
and  historical  mementos. 

A  full  list  of  300  or  more  libraries  in  the  City  of  New  York  will  be 
found  in  a  manual  published  by  the  New  York  Library  Club. 


Art  Galleries. 

Fine  arts  have  made  a  very  notable  advance  in  New  York  during 
the  last  few  years,  not  only  in  the  direction  of  exhibition  and  gen- 
real  popularity,  but  toward  a  higher  standard  of  work  and  more 
thorough  methods  of  teaching.  The  one  really  great  public  gallery 
of  the  city  is  that  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art,  which  is 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS,  LIBRARIES,  ETC.  149 


described  in  the  general  account  of  that  institution  (pp.  52-54). 
The  Lenox  Library  has  a  small  gallery  of  fine  pictures  open  daily; 
and  the  New  York  Historical  Society,  Second  Av.  and  nth  St.,  pos- 
sesses many  portraits,  examples  of  the  Dutch  masters,  and  pieces  of 
statuary,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  by  card  from  a  member  of 
the  society. 

The  principal  gath- 
ering place  of  art  in 
the  metropolis  is  The 
American  Fine  Art 
Society,  57th  St.  be- 
tween Seventh  Av. 
and  Broadway.  In  its 
galleries  are  located 
The  National  Society 
of  Mural  Painters, 
The  New  York  Chap- 
ter of  the  American 
Institute  of  Archi 
tects,  The  Society  of 
American  Artists, 
The  National  Sculp- 
ture Society,  The 
American  Fine  Art 
Society,  The  Fine 
Arts  Federation  of 
New  York,  The  New 
York  Water  Color 
Club,  The  New  York 
Academy  of  Design, 
The  Society  of 
Beaux  Arts  Archi- 
tects, and  The  Art 
Students'  League. 
The  Academy  holds  an  exhibition  of  new  paintings  in  the  early 
spring  of  each  year,  and  several  prizes,  ranging  from  f  100  to  $300  are 
distributed.  During  the  first  two  da^^s  of  the  exhibitions,  which  are 
known  as  "  varnishing  day,  "  and  "  private  view"  or  "  buyers'  day," 
admission  can  only  be  obtained  by  a  card  of  invitation  from  the  sec- 


AMERICAN    FINE  ART  SOCIETY, 


150 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


retary,  and  these  are  eagerly  sought  for.  During  the  succeeding 
weeks  the  gallery  is  open  to  the  public  from  9  a.  m.  until  10  p.  m. 
upon  payment  of  an  admission  fee  of  25  cts.  There  is  also  an  exhi- 
bition in  the  fall,  where  work  less  ambitious,  but  often  none  the  less 
interesting,  is  shown  to  the  public. 

The  Water  Color  Society  is  closely  allied  to  the  Academy  of 
Design.  It  has  no  rooms,  the  secretary's  address  is  Fine  Art  Society, 
215  W.  57th  St.,  N.  Y.  The  object  of  this  society  is  the  advancement 
of  painting  in  water-colors,  and  it  holds  an  annual  exhibition  at  the 
American  Art  Association,  6  E.  23d  St.,  of  the  work  of  its  resident 
members,  which  occurs  in  late  January  or  early  February,  and  forms 
one  of  the  most  interesting  and  important  art  events  of  the  year.  In 
connection  with  this  exhibition  there  is  a  display  of  the  year's  results 
by  members  of  the  Etching  Club. 

The  Centennial  Exhibition  gave  a  great  impetus  to  the  fine  arts  in 
this  country,  one  result  of  which  has  been  the  establishment  in  this 
city  within  the  last  fifteen  years  of  a  number  of  promising  art  societies 
in  addition  to  these  just  mentioned.  Five  of  these  societies  form  a 
group,  which  have  combined  their  forces  into  a  "  Fine  Arts  Society," 
intending  to  be  a  working  institution,  as  distinguished  from  a  club  of 
painters.  It  has  erected  a  handsome  building,2i5  W.  57thSt. ,  adapted 
to  exhibitions,  schools,  and  all  other  needs.  In  the  great  gallery  of 
this  building,  several  exhibitions  of  pictures  occur  annually,  of  which 
the  most  striking  is  that  in  May  of  the  Society  of  American  Artists, 
founded  in  1877  by  some  of  the  younger  men  of  that  time  who  were  not 
in  accord  with  the  policy  of  the  National  Academy  and  thought  there 
was  room  for  a  second  institution.  This  building  is  also  the  home  of 
the  National  Sculpture  Society,  and  of  the  Art  Students'  League, 
a  school  of  instruction  in  all  branches  of  the  graphic  arts;  each 
exhibits  work  once  a  year. 

The  purely  commercial  side  of  art  in  New  York  has  much  to  interest 
one.  At  the  galleries  of  the  American  Art  Association,  6  E.  23d  St., 
two  exhibitions  and  sales  are  held  spring  and  autumn,  and  often  at 
other  times  there  are  special  exhibitions  of  extreme  interest,  as  when 
Verestchagin  showed  his  collection  there  in  the  spring  of  1889.  The 
principal  art  dealers  have  long  been  accustomed  to  add  to  the  pleasures 
of  the  public  by  throwing  open  their  collections  of  modern  paintings, 
chiefly  foreign,  which  are  well  worth  examination.  Auctions  of 
pictures  are  rarely  worth  attending,  unless  some  well-known  private 
collection  is  to  be  disposed  of. 


X. 

CLUBS  AND  SOCIETIES. 


Social  Clubs. 

In  a  book  of  this  character  the  subject  of  social  clubs  need  not  con- 
sume much  space,  since  without  an  invitation  from  a  member  nothing 
more  than  the  outside  of  the  club-houses  can  be  seen  by  a  stranger. 
In  mar  /  cases,  indeed,  there  is  little  to  reward  curiosity  inside,  while 
some,  like  the  Union  League,  and  others  of  the  older  and  more 
prominent  class,  have  splendid  rooms  filled  with  treasures  of  art,  as 
well  as  all  the  appliances  of  comfort  and  luxury,  which  the  modern 
upholsterer,  decorator,  and  cook  are  able  to  supply.  Clubs  have 
increased  m  numbers  and  expanded  in  membership  and  importance 
with  the  growth  of  the  city,  and  will  continue  to  do  so. 

The  following  is  an  alphabetical  list  of  the  leading  social  clubs  ir 
New  York  and  Brooklyn,  with  brief  remarks: 

A I  dine,  iii  Fifth  A  v. — Business  men. 

Arion,  Park  Av.  and  59th  St. 

Army  and  Navy,  16  W.  31st  St. — Military  men. 

Authors',  Carnegie  Music  Hall. — Literary  men. 

Calu7net,  267  Fifth  Av. — An  offshoot  from  the  Union  Club. 

Catholic,  120  W.  59th  St. — Its  members  are  Roman  Catholics  of 
wealth  and  social  prominence,  occupying  a  spacious  and  very  beauti- 
ful club  house  facing  the  south  side  of  Central  Park. 

Century,  7  W.  43d  St. — The  oldest  and  strongest  club  in  the 
countr}^  having  an  intellectual  object;  its  members  are  chosen  for 
their  interest  and  attainments  in  literature  and  the  fine  arts,  as  well 
as  for  social  qualities.  Strangers  are  admitted  by  card  to  its  monthly 
literary  entertainments. 

Church,  578  Fifth  A  v. — Episcopalian. 

City,  19  W.  34th  St. — Improvement  of  municipal  government. 

152 


CLUBS  AND  SOCIETIES. 


153 


Colonial^  127  W.  72d  St. — A  beautiful  new  house. 

Deutscher  Verein  (German  Club),  112  W.  59th  St.  -The  most  ex- 
clusive German  society,  having  an  elegant  house,  a  large  part  of 
which  is  open  to  the  ladies  of  the  members'  families. 

Democratic y  617  Fifth  Av. — Tammany  politicians. 

Down-town  Association,  60  Pine  St. — Business  men. 

Engineers,  374  Fifth  Av. — Civil  engineers,  architects,  etc. 

Fencers. — 37  W.  22d  St. — Sword  exercise. 

''Greek  Letter'"  Clubs,  composed  of  members  of  college  fraterni- 
ties having  Greek  names,  commonly  represented  by  their  initials 
Alpha  Delta  Phi,  35  W.  33d  St.;  Chi  Phi.  2  Wall  St.;  Delta  Kappa 
Epsilon,  435  Fifth  Av.;  Delta  Phi,  411  W.  117th  St.;  Delta  Psi  (St. 
Anthony),  29  E.  28th  St.;  Psi  Upsilon,  44  W.  44th  St.;  Phi  Gamma 
Delta,  604  W.  114th  St.;  Zeta  Psi,  148  W.  34th  St. 

Harlem,  Lenox  Av.  and  123d  St.  — Leading  club  of  Harlem. 

Harmonic y  45  W.  42d  St. — The  leading  Hebrew  social  club. 

Harvard,  27  W.  44th  St. — Alumni  of  Harvard  University. 

Knickerbocker ^  319  Fifth  Av. — A  club  of  the  *'  gilded  youth." 

Lambs',  70  W.  36th  St. — Actors  and  men  interested  in  the  stage. 

Lawyers,  120  Broadway. — A  luncheon  club  for  lawyers  and  others 
doing  business  down  town.    It  has  magnificent  rooms. 

Lotos,  558  Fifth  Av. — Composed  mainly  of  writers,  actors,  artists, 
and  professional  men.  Monthly  art  receptions  are  held  during  the 
winter,  and  a  Ladies'  Day  each  month,  when  music  and  recitations 
are  added.  If  you  are  offered  a  card  to  one  of  the  **  Saturday 
Nights,"  take  it  and  go,  for  the  entertainment  will  be  excellent. 

Manhattan,  Madison  Av.  and  26th  St. — A  distinctively  political  as 
well  as  social  club,  representing  the  Democratic  party,  and  especi- 
ally the  Cleveland  wing.  It  occupied,  until  1899,  the  mansion  of  A. 
T.  Stewart,  and  includes  many  wealthy  and  prominent  politicians. 

Merchants,  New  York  Life  Ins.  Bldg. — A  social  and  commercial 
club. 

Metropolitan,  Fifth  Av.  and  6oth  St. — Composed  of  men  of  great 
wealth,  and  commonly  known  as  the  Millionaires'  Club.  It  is  of 
recent  organization,  and  has  a  superb  marble  home  facing  Centra^ 
Park,  just  above  the  Plaza. 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


New  York  Athletic,  Sixth  Av.  and  59th  St.,  and  New  Rochelle. 

New  York,  Fifth  Av.  and  35th  St. —  One  of  the  old  and  exclusive 
social  clubs,  composed  largely  of  Wall  St.  Men.  Its  house  was 
formerly  the  home  of  Governor  E.  D.  Morgan. 

New  York  Yacht,  67  Madison  Av. — This  is  the  leading  American 
yacht  club,  and  is  the  custodian  for  the  America  Cup,"  for  inter- 
national races. 

Ohio  Society,  Rooms,  Waldorf-Astoria  Hotel. — Natives  or  former 
residents  of  Ohio,  and  their  sons. 

The  Players,  16  Gramercy  Park. — An  exclusive  club  of  actors  of 
the  highest  rank,  managers,  and  professional  men.  Its  house  was 
the  gift  of  the  late  Edwin  Booth,  and  its  library  is  a  priceless  col- 
lection of  dramatic  lore,  the  play-bills  gathered  by  Augustin  Daly, 
the  libraries  of  Edwin  Booth  and  Lawrence  Barrett,  etc. 

Press,  34  W.  26th  St. — Journalists. 

Progress,  Fifth  Av.  and  63d  St. — A  social  club  of  Hebrews. 
Racquet  and  Tennis,  27  W.  43d  St. — Athletic  sports. 
Reform,  233  Fifth  Av. — A  social  club  of  men  interested  in  low- 
tariff  measures. 

Republican,  450  Fifth  Av. —  A  large  social  club,  active  in  Repub- 
lican politics. 

Riding,  7  E.  58th  St. — The  "swellest"  riding  and  driving  club. 

St.  Nicholas,  7  W.  44th  St. — An  aristocratic  club  composed  exclu- 
sively of  men  whose  ancestors  resided  in  New  York  prior  to  1785. 

Sabnagundi.  14  W.  12th  St. — Artists  exclusively. 

Twelfth  Night,  23  W,  44th  St. — Ladies  of  the  dramatic  profession. 

Union,  Fifth  Av.  and  51st  St. — The  first  American  club  which  was 
formed  upon  English  models  and  was  a  real  club  as  the  term  is  now 
understood.  It  was  founded  in  1836,  and  had  a  succession  of  down- 
town resting  places  until  1855,  when  it  moved  into  its  present  luxuri- 
ous house.  This  club  has  consisted  from  the  very  first  of  the  social 
magnates  of  New  York,"  and  it  is  now  contemplating  removal  to 
an  uptown  house  near  Central  Park. 

Union  League,  Fifth  Av.  and  39th  St. —  Although  now  one  of  the 
foremost  social  clubs,  it  grew  out  of  an  association  of  leading  citizens 
banded  together  in  1863  for  the  support  of  the  Union,  and  has  ever 
since  been  a  distinctively  Republican  organization.  The  present  mag- 


156 


HANDY  GUIDE  7^0  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


nificent  club  house  contains  as  an  unusual  feature  a  large  art  gallery, 
where  extraordinary  loan  exhibitions  are  occasionally  displayed,  and 
which  serves  as  a  hall  for  entertainments.  This  club  gives  monthly 
receptions,  at  which  new  American  pictures  and  foreign  pictures 
loaned  by  private  collectors  are  exhibited.  Admission  to  these  recep- 
tions is  by  card,  obtainable  from  members.  A  ladies'  reception  is 
given  annually,  and  is  a  brilliant  social  event. 

University y  Fifth  Av.  and  54th  St. — A  new  granite  palace. 

Women's  Press  Club,  Carnegie  Hall. 

Vale,  30  W.  44th  St. — Alumni  of  Yale  University. 

A  capital  sketch  of  clubs  and  club  life  in  old  and  modern  New 
York  was  furnished  by  Mr.  Henry  L.  Nelson,  as  a  supplement  to 
Harper's  Weekly,  for  March  15,  1890. 

Secret  Orders. 

All,  probably,  of  the  secret  orders  and  societies  in  the  United 
States  have  representatives  in  New  York,  and  for  many  it  is  the 
American  headquarters.  Several  of  these  stand  before  the  public 
more  in  a  social  aspect,  or  otherwise,  than  on  account  of  any  secrecy 
in  their  proceedings,  and  are  mentioned  elsewhere,  e.  g.  the  "  Greek 
letter  societies"  of  collegians,  above.  A  long  list  of  others  may  be 
found  in  Trow's  Directory.  The  orders  of  Free  Masonry  and  Odd- 
Fellows  remain  for  special  notice. 

Free  Masonry. —  The  Masonic  Te7nple  at  Sixth  Av.  and  23d  St.  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  New  York  State.  It  is  a 
lofty  granite  building,  and  contains  the  offices  of  the  Grand  Secretary 
and  other  grand  dignitaries  of  the  Blue  lodges.  On  the  right  is  the 
large  hall  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  State,  which  meets  annually  in 
June.  The  remainder  of  the  year  the  room  is  available  for  assemblies, 
lectures,  preaching,  etc.  Scattered  through  the  corridors  on  the  upper 
doors  will  be  noticed  cases  of  Masonic  curiosities,  such  as  charters,  pat- 
ents, aprons,  scarves,  jewels,  swords,  trowels,  etc.,  of  historical  value. 
These,  and  the  portraits  and  busts  of  Grand  Masters,  form  a  part  of 
the  museum  attached  to  the  Grand  Lodge  library.  This  notable 
collection  of  Masonic  literature  is  open  to  all  visitors  between  3.30 
and  10.30  p.  m.  The  lodge-rooms,  Royal  Arch  chapters  and  asylums 
of  Knights  Templar  on  the  upper  floors,  where  the  subordinate  bodies 
meet,  are  open  to  the  public  and  should  be  inspected.'  The  most 
striking  are  the  Chapter  room,  a  fac-simile  of  an  Egyptian  tomb  or 
temple,  and  the  Commandery  room  or  asylum  on  the  top  floor,  which 


CLUBS  AND  SOCIETIES. 


157 


represents  the  choir  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  The  Grand  Council  of 
Royal  and  Select  Masters  meets  annually  there  on  the  first  Tuesday 
of  September,  it  and  the  Grand  Lodge  being  the  only  Grand  bodies 
which  assemble  in  this  city  regularly  every  year.  The  German 
Masons  have  a  building  of  their  own,  overlooking  Stuyvesant  Sq. 
The  high-grade  or  Scottish  Rite  Masons,  who  control  the  fourth  to 
the  thirty-third  degrees,  are  divided  into  different  organizations.  The 
Supreme  Grand  Council  of  the  Northern  Jurisdiction  meets  at  Scottish 
Rite  Hall. 

Odd-Fellows. —  There  are  over  loo  lodges  of  the  Independent  Order 
of  Odd-Fellows  in  New  York  City,  and  the  headquarters  of  these  is 
Odd- Fellows'  Hall,  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Grand  and  Center  St&. 

Scieniific  and  Learned  Societies, 

New  York  has  many  societies  and  clubs  devoted  to  scientific,  med- 
ical, and  other  learned  investigations.  The  widest  interest  attaches 
to  the  New  York  Historical  Society  at  the  corner  of  Second  Av.  and 
E.  nth  St.  (See  Libraries  and  Art.)  Monthly  meetings  are  held 
during  the  cool  months. 

The  object  of  this  society  (founded  1804)  is  to  investigate  matters 
of  local  history  and  preserve  records  and  relics  illustrating  it.  Besides 
the  library  of  70,000  volumes,  the  building  contains  the  interesting 
Nineveh  marbles,  presented  by  James  Lenox,  and  the  Abbot  collec- 
tion of  Egyptian  antiquities,  consisting  of  some  1,200  objects.  "  The 
gallery  of  art  is  upon  the  fourth  floor,  and,  excepting  the  Metro- 
politan Museum  of  Art,  comprises,  perhaps,  the  largest  permanent 
collection  in  America,  at  the  present  time,  of  valuable  sculptures, 
ancient  and  modern  paintings  by  renowned  masters,  and  authentic 
portraits  of  persons  distinguished  in  history.  It  contains  800  pict ares 
and  59  pieces  of  sculpture,  and  is  increasing  rapidly." 

The  American  Institute  is  an  old  society,  which  has  attained  wide 
notoriety  on  account  of  its  annual  fair,  at  Third  Av.  and  63d  St. 

These  fairs  are  usually  kept  open  for  several  weeks  in  the  fall;  and, 
among  a  vast  array  of  machinery  in  motion,  agricultural  implements 
and  manufactured  goods,  there  are  always  to  be  seen  a  sufficient 
number  of  curious  and  beautiful  objects."  The  Farmers  Club,  of 
wide  fame,  is  a  section  of  this  society. 

The  Am.  Geographical  Society  is  a  flourishing  institution,  with 
interesting  rooms  and  a  large  library,  at  No.  11  W.  29th  St.,  which 
any  one  may  visit  during  the  day.  It  has  a  grand  collection  of  maps 
II 


158 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  N£W  YORK  CITY. 


and  charts,  and  many  interesting  mementos  of  travel  and  travelers. 
Its  monthly  meetings  (first  Tuesday  of  each  month  from  May  to 
November)  are  held  in  Chickering  Hall,  when  lectures  on  geograph- 
ical  subjects  are  given,  which  are  usually  illustrated,  and  always 
attract  large  audiences.  Free  tickets  are  distributed  by  members, 
or  mailed  to  applicants  by  the  permanent  secretary. 

The  Scientific  Alliance  is  a  federation  of  several  organizations 
devoted  to  natural  history,  which  meet  in  the  Museum  of  Natural 
History  or  at  Columbia  College.  Information  may  be  obtained  of 
Dr.  N.  L.  Britton,  Columbia  College.  The  component  societies  are: 
Academy  of  Sciences  (founded  in  1817,  as  the  N.  Y.  Lyceum  of 
Natural  History) ;  Torrey  Botanical  Club;  N,  V,  Microscopical 
Society :  Limie an  Society  of  New  York;  Am,  M at he7natical  Society ; 
N.  Y.  Mineralogical  Club;  the  New  York  section  of  the  American 
Chemical  Society^  N.  Y.  Ento7no logical  Society. 

All  of  these  meetings  are  open  freely  to  the  public,  and  a  monthly 
programme  is  printed  and  may  be  obtained  at  any  library  or  similar 
place.  The  annual  "  Reception  "  in  March  is  an  interesting  display 
of  the  local  scientific  work  of  the  preceding  year. 

The  Academy  of  Medicine  is  a  corporation  of  physicians  and 
students,  devoted  to  the  advancement  of  their  professional  science 
and  interests,  and  the  promotion  of  the  public  health.  There  are 
sections  devoted  to  a  variety  of  special  diseases  and  departments  of 
the  science,  and  rooms  and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes  are  open  daily 
to  the  public  at  12  W.  sist  St.  In  the  same  building  are  the  rooms 
of  the  Medical  Journal  Associatio7i,  which  exists  to  furnish  imme- 
diate access  to  all  current  medical  literature  in  the  department  of 
medical  journals  and  monographs,  while  the  County  Medical  Society 
and  several  special  societies  also  hold  their  meetings  there. 


XI. 


GREATER  NEW  YORK. 

For  many  years  certain  enthusiasts  have  been  advocating  the 
inclusion  within  the  name  and  municipality  of  New  York  City  of 
Brooklyn,  Staten  Island,  and  an  extensive  surburban  region  north- 
ward and  eastward.  In  1890,  a  legislative  commission,  under  the 
presidency  of  Andrew  H.  Green,  was  appointed  to  inquire  into  the 
expediency  of  the  project,  and  this  commission  ascertained  and 
communicated  to  the  State  Legislature  the  views  of  a  large  number  of 
residents  of  the  city  and  the  outlying  districts  concerned.  The  result 
was  a  proposition  or  plan  for  an  enlargement  of  the  city  by  consoli- 
dation with  it  of  the  southern  part  of  the  towns  of  Eastchester  auH 
Pelham,  in  Westchester  County,  carrying  the  city-line  eastward 
almost  to  Pelham  Manor;  this  much  was  accomplished  m  1895,  and 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  city  now  reaches  Yonkers,  Mount  Ver- 
non, and  New  Rochelle.  The  proposition  also  included  all  of  Kings 
County,  and  as  much  of  Queens  County,  Long  Island,  as  lies  west 
of  a  line  from  Great  Neck  to  Rockaway,  embracing  Long  Island 
City  and  its  suburbs  —  Flushing,  Jamaica,  and  the  shores  of  Jamaica 
Bay' — and  the  whole  of  Richmond  County  (Staten  Island).  This 
would  give  an  area  of  nearly  320  square  miles,  and  include  a  popula- 
tion of  3,437,202,  making  New  York  the  second  city  of  the  world. 

This  agitation  led  to  the  submission  of  the  question  to  the  votes  of 
the  people  concerned,  in  the  autumn  of  1894.  The  result  was  affirma- 
tive, a  charter  was  granted  by  the  State  in  1896,  and  went  into  effect 
January  i,  1898.  The  city  now  consists,  therefore,  of  five  boroughs  — 
Ma7ihatta7i  Jsland),  The  Bronx  (north  of  the  Harlem),  B7'ooklyn, 
Queens  (external  parts  of  Brooklyn),  and  Richmond  (Staten  Island). 

Brooklyn. 

Brooklyn,  with  1,166,582  inhabitants,  according  to  the  census  of 
1900,  has  increased  her  territory,  and  her  population,  by  annexing, 

159 


160  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


in  1894,  the  whole  outlying  territory  of  Kings  County,  taking  in  the 
suburban  region  southward,  heretofore  called  Gravesend,  New 
Utrecht,  etc.,  and  including  Coney  Island,  Brighton,  and  Manhattan 
beaches.  The  beneficence  of  the  change  was  at  once  apparent. 
Political  misrule  and  speculative  chicanery  were  replaced  by  the 
evenly  applied  government  of  the  city,  and  an  impetus  was  given  to 
the  growth  and  improvement  of  all  those  suburbs,  now  connected  by 
a  network  of  electric  railways. 

A  visit  to  Brooklyn  is  among  the  duties,  and  will  prove  itself  to  the 
pleasure,  of  any  one  who  wishes  to  see  New  York,  for  it  is  to  all 
intents  and  purposes  an  integral  part  of  the  metropolis.  There  are 
four  general  divisions  of  the  city,  popularly,  though  not  officially, 
called  The  Heights,  South  Brooklyn,  The  H.'ll,  and  the  Eastern 
District,  or  Williamsburg.  Certain  principal  features  should  be 
attended  to  by  the  sight-seer,  among  which  are  the  following:  The 
Heights,  Prospect  Park,  Greenwood  and  other  cemeteries ,  The 
IMavy  Yard,  Plymouth  Church,  A  Tour  of  the  Elevated  Railroads, 
and  the  Brooklyn  Institute's  new  Museum  at  Prospect  Park. 

The  main  thoroughfare  of  Brooklyn  is  Fulton  St.,  which  has  a  gen- 
erally  eastward  course.  Fulton  and  Catherine  ferries,  and  the  East 
River  Bridge,  land  upon  it.  Half  a  mile  above  the  bridge  stands 
the  Court  House,  where  the  celebrated  "  Beecher  trial"  took  place; 
the  Hall  of  Records,  next  to  it;  the  Municipal  Building  (containing 
the  departmental  offices  of  the  local  government),  and,  prominently 
in  front  of  all,  the  City  Hall.  These  buildings  are  costly  and  impos- 
ing, and  in  front  of  them  stands  Ward's  bronze  statue  of  Henry 
Ward  Beecher,  commemorating  him  not  only  as  the  great  preacher, 
but  as  the  anti-slavery  champion  and  philanthropist. 

Near  this  point  are  grouped  many  large  business  structures,  office 
buildings,  banks,  theaters,  newspapers,  etc. ;  and  the  principal  shops 
line  Fulton  St.  for  half  a  dozen  blocks  above,  while  Washington  St., 
two  blocks  south,  near  the  extended  bridge  terminus,  contains  the 
costly  new  Federal  Building,  containing  the  Post  Office,  U.  S.  Courts, 
etc. ,  the  lofty  Eagle  Building,  and  the  Clarendon  Hotel. 

The  principal  theaters  are:  Amphion,  Bedford  Av.,  opposite  S. 
Ninth  St. ;  Academy  of  Music ^  Montague  St. ,  near  City  Hall;  Colum- 
bia,  Washington  and  Tillary  Sts. ;  Grand  Opera  House,  Elm  PL, 
near  Fulton  St.;  Star,  Jay  St.,  near  Fulton;  Mo7ttauk,  587  Fulton 
St.;  Park,  Fulton,  opposite  City  Hall;  Bijou,  Smith  and  Livingston 
Sts.;  Criterion.  Fulton  St.,  near  Grand  Av. ;  Hyde  <Sr*  Behman's, 
Adams  St.,  near  Myrtle  Av. ;  Lee  Avenue  Academy.  Lee  near  Divi- 


GREATER  NEW  YORK. 


161 


sion  Av.;  Novelty,  Driggs  Av.,  near  vS.  4th  St.,  E.  D.;  Gayety, 
Broadway  and  Throop  St.,  E.  D.;  ^//^//W,  Broadway  and  S.  Sixth 
St.,  E.  D. 

If  now  the  visitor  will  walk  down  Montague  St.  toward  the  river, 
he  will  soon  find  himself  in  that  part  of  Brooklyn  called 

The  Heights. — Here  the  land  comes  to  the  water  in  a  steep  bluff 
nearly  a  hundred  feet  high  at  the  foot  of  Montague  St. ,  where  the 
residences  of  many  of  the  oldest  and  most  prominent  Brooklyn  fami- 
lies stand  on  what  is  known  as  Columbia  Heights,  overlooking  from 
their  windows  a  grand  panorama  of  the  harbor,  the  lower  part  of 
East  River,  and  the  Battery  and  Wall  St.  regions  of  New  York  City. 
Along  the  base  of  the  bluffs  are  lines  of  wharves  and  spacious  ware- 
houses, where  ships  are  moored  and  foreign  commerce  comes  and 
goes;  and  there  is  only  room  for  a  narrow  street  with  only  ware- 
houses, mostly  bonded,  those  on  the  land  side  being  built  in  excava- 
tions under  the  back  gardens  of  the  dwellings  on  Columbia  Heights; 
but  the  highland  above  is  covered  with  stately  homes,  hotels, 
churches,  clubs,  and  institutions  of  learning.  The  term  "The 
Heights,"  however,  is  made  to  reach  back  as  far  as  the  City  Hall,  and 
hence  includes  the  public  buildings,  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  the  Academy 
of  Music,  and  several  theaters.  Next  to  the  capacious  Academy  of 
Music,  and  communicating  with  it  by  large  doors,  is  the  ornamental 
structure  of  the  Art  Association,  and  opposite  to  it  the  Brooklyn 
Library.  Closely  cognate  is  the  purpose  of  the  Long  Island  Histor- 
ical Society,  which  possesses  a  large  and  handsome  edifice,  with 
terra  cotta  and  stone  trimmings,  at  the  corner  of  Clinton  and  Pierre- 
pont  Sts. ,  a  library  of  over  80,000  volumes  and  pamphlets,  and  a 
museum  of  historical  and  curious  objects.  Clinton  St.  was  for  many 
years  the  Fifth  Avenue  of  Brooklyn,  and  no  part  of  the  city  is  more 
fashionable  than  the  blocks  along  Montague,  Pierrepont,  Remsen 
and  some  other  streets  leading  from  Clinton  to  the  river-bluff  There 
is  not  the  shade  and  picturesque  beauty  here,  however,  which  belong 
to  some  other  districts,  that  "  on  the  hill,"  for  example.  Here  on  The 
Heights  are  the  three  first-class  hotels  of  Brooklyn,  the  Mansion 
House,  the  Pierrepont  House,  and  the  new  and  lofty  St.  George 
Hotel,  and  here  have  lately  been  erected  some  tall  and  elegant 
apartment  houses,  the  principal  ones  being  the  Arlington,  Berkeley 
Grosvenor,  Montague,  Columbia,  West  End,  Roebling,  and  Mar- 
geret,  the  latter  a  massive  pile  of  ten  stories,  overlooking  the  Bay 
Here,  too,  are  the  leading  clubs  —  thv  ^Brooklyn,  Hamilton,  Excel- 
sior, and  Crescent  Athletic  Club,  just  reinforced  by  the  Jefferson,  a 


163  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY 

new  Democratic  club  —  while  on  The  Hill"  the  new  Republican 
Union  League  Club,  the  Lincoln,  and  the  Montauk  have  been  added, 
with  fine  houses,  to  the  older  Oxford. 

It  was  the  number  of  very  fine  houses  of  worship,  not  to  speak  of 
many  smaller  ones,  in  this  conspicuous  part  of  town,  which  gave  to 
Brooklyn  the  name  "City  of  Churches."  Plymouth  Church,  made 
famous  by  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  was  until  1899  presided  over  by 
Dr.  Lyman  Abbot, 

Plymouth  Church  is  in  Orange  St.,  between  Hicks  and  Henry.  It 
is  within  easy  walking  distance  of  either  Fulton  Ferry  or  the  Bridge, 
and  "  anybody  can  direct  you."  The  edifice  is  merely  a  great  brick 
"  barn,"  and  has  no  ornamentation  within  inconsistent  with  its  out- 
ward simplicity.  It  was  built  in  1847,  and  its  pulpit  was  occupied  40 
years  by  Mr.  Beecher,  imtil  his  death  in  1887.  Its  most  prominent 
members  dwell  near  by,  but  a  large  part  of  the  regular  congregation 
gathers  from  remote  quarters  of  the  city,  while  a  throng  of  strangers 
from  all  parts  of  the  country  is  seen  within  its  doors  each  Sun- 
day. Mr.  Beecher  lived  and  died  not  far  away,  at  No.  124  Hicks  St., 
corner  of  Cla'lrk. 

Another  famous  Congregational  church  on  The  Heights  is  Dr. 
H.  P.  Dewey's  Church  of  the  Pilgrims,  at  the  corner  of  Henry  and 
Remsen  Sts.  Next  to  the  Historical  Society's  building  is  Holy 
Trinity,  the  leading  Episcopal  church  of  Brooklyn,  under  the 
pastorate  of  the  Rev  Dr.  J.  H.  Melish;  while  St.  Ann's  (Dr.  Alsop's) 
is  only  a  block  or  two  distant. 

Prospect  Park. —  This  noble  park,  which  lies  upon  the  high  ground 
in  the  rear  of  the  city,  overlooking  the  populous  wards  of  South 
Brooklyn  and  the  New  York  harbor  on  one  side,  and  the  Atlantic 
shore  toward  Coney  Island  on  the  other,  is  nearly  as  large  as  Central 
Park,  and  is  by  many  people  considered  more  enjoyable,  if  not  more 
beautiful.  It  is  reached  by  the  following  Trolley  lines:  From  Fulton 
Ferry  or  the  Bridge  entrance,  Flatbush  Av.  line  (the  most  direct) ; 
Adams  and  Boerum  Place  line,  and  Franklin  Av.  line;  from  Hamilton 
(south)  Ferry,  the  Hamilton  Av.  and  Prospect  Park  line;  and  from 
Broadway  (Williamsburg)  Ferry,  the  Nostrand  Av.  line.  The  distance 
is  about  2^2.  miles  more  or  less,  from  any  of  the  ferries,  but  the  route 
from  Fulton  Ferry  or  the  Bridge  is  the  most  interesting.  None  of  the 
elevated  railroads  go  very  near  the  park. 

In  connection  with  this  park,  a  series  '^f  boulevards,  200  reet  wide, 
has  been  designed  for  distant  points.  One  is  to  cross  East  River  at 
Blackwell's  Island,  and  connect  with  the  Central  Park  or  the  Eastern 
Boulevard.  The  picturesque  water-tower  near  the  plaza  overlooks 
the  whole  region. 


164 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


The  Park  Plaza  is  a  large  paved  space  at  the  principal^  entrance 
of  Prospect  Park,  where  Flatbush  Av.,  the  Eastern  Boulevard,  and 
several  other  streets  converge.  Ornamental  stone  kiosks,  and  four 
great  granite  pillars,  ultimately  to  support  statues,  mark  the  entrance 
to  the  drive.  The  center  of  the  Plaza  is  marked  by  a  memorial  arch  to 
the  soldiers  and  sailors  of  the  Civil  War,  which  was  erected  in  1892, 
and  is  not  so  good  in  design  as  the  Washington  Arch.  It  contains 
some  bad  half -reliefs  upon  its  interior  faces,  and  is  surmounted  by  a 
colossal  bronze  group  by  Frederick  MacMonnies,  representing  the 
chariot  of  victory,  led  by  heralds  of  peace.  It  faces  the  park,  and 
should  be  seen  from  that  side  before  being  judged  of,  its  rear  view, 
first  presented  to  our  approaching  from  the  city,  being  somewhat 
ludicrous.  The  arch  is  hollow,  and  stairways  open  to  the  public 
(entrance  free)  permit  one  to  ascend  to  the  top  and  get  a  close  view 
of  this  work  of  art,  which  gains  upon  nearer  acquaintance.  It  was 
erected  during  the  summer  of  1898.  At  a  little  distance  is  an  electric 
fountain,  illuminated  during  the  summer  at  frequent  intervals.  Just 
within  the  park  entrance  stands  a  most  excellent  portrait-statue,  also 
by  MacMonnies,  of  J.  S.  Stranahan,  who  was  called,  at  the  time  of  his 
death,  in  1897,  Brooklyn's  foremost  citizen,  and  who  had  been  of 
more  service  than  any  other  in  establishing  this  and  the  other  parks 
of  the  city. 

Prospect  Park  is  a  worthy  rival  of  Central  Park  in  attractiveness. 
It  is  wilder,  more  diversified,  and  freer  to  the  public,  although 
there  are  portions  of  the  highest  cultivation.  It  contains,  among 
its  ornaments,  a  statue  to  John  Howard  Payne,  author  of 
"  Home,  Sweet  Home,"  and  a  bronze  tablet  noting  the  site 
(Battle  Pass)  of  a  critical  part  of  the  Battle  of  Long  Island,  which  took 
place  on  these  hills.  The  drives  are  exceedingly  well  arranged  and 
delightful,  and  the  lake  is  really  a  large  body  of  water,  upon  which 
there  are  numerous  boats;  but  the  great  advantage  of  Prospect  Park 
7S,  that  one  may  run  about  on  the  grass  almost  everywhere,  or  wander 
through  the  thickets  at  will.  There  is  a  winding  lake  with  boats,  a 
shady  ramble,  etc.  From  Lookout  Hill,  a  magnificent  view  is  to  be 
gained,  reaching  from  the  Atlantic  horizon  to  the  Palisades  and  the 
Orange  Hills;  and  on  certain  lawns,  especially  on  Saturday  afternoons, 
hundreds  of  brightly  appareled  young  people  may  be  seen  playing  ten- 
nis, or  croquet,  or  practicing  at  archery,  or  otherwise  actively  amusing 
themselves,  while  thousands  of  others  lounge  upon  the  grassy  slopes. 


GREATER  NEW  YORK. 


16o 


Museum  of  the  Brooklyn  Institute.— This  is  the  foundation  of  a 
museum  of  natural  history  and  ethnology,  which  is  housed  in  the 
building  an  eighth  of  a  mile  east  of  the  Park  Plaza,  beyond  the 
beautiful  water  tower.  The  collections  are  open  free  to  the  public 
from  Wednesday  to  Saturday,  but  25  cents  admission  fee  is  charged 
on  Monday  and  Tuesday.  These  collections  are  the  property  of  the 
Brooklyn  Institute,  and  consist  of  a  large  amount  of  material 
illustrating  all  departments  of  zoology,  which  are  displayed  in  suit- 
able cases,  and  are  well  worth  seeing.  The  display  of  local  birds  and 
insects  is  especially  good.  A  considerable  amount  of  geological, 
mineral ogical,  and  ethnological  material  has  been  gathered  and 
arranged,  and  the  beginning  of  an  art  gallery  has  been  made, 
which  already  numbers  several  interesting  pictures. 

The  Brooklyn  Institute  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  social  and 
intellectual  influences  in  the  city,  being  practically  a  system  of 
university  extension  work.  It  originated  in  1823,  as  an  apprentices' 
library  movement,  with  lectures,  etc.,  and  in  1843  its  scope  was 
enlarged,  but  not  much  was  done  for  the  public  until  1887,  when  it 
was  reorganized,  its  membership  and  scope  vastly  increased,  and  it 
began  a  career  of  extensive  usefulness.  All  the  scientific  and  literary 
societies  of  the  city  joined  with  it,  as  sections,  and  others  were 
organized,  until  now  circles  and  classes  for  study  and  social 
societies  exist  under  its  organization  in  almost  every  line  of  work 
one  can  think  of;  and  the  public  meetings  and  lectures  before  the 
sections  or  before  the  whole  body  of  members  are  so  numerous  that 
three  or  four  often  occur  on  the  same  evening.  The  present  build- 
ing is  only  the  beginning  of  what  is  intended  to  be  a  vast  and  mag- 
nificent seat  of  popular  learning.  The  legislature  and  the  city  have 
assisted  the  institute  by  large  appropriations,  and  endowments  are 
accumulating,  so  that  additions  will  rapidly  be  made,  and  the  plans 
of  McKim,  Mead  &  White  will  a  few  years  hence  be  materialized 
into  a  building  which  will  be  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest 
educational  institutions  in  the  metropolis. 

Greenwood  Cemetery.  —  This  famous  city  of  the  dead  covers  a 
square  mile  of  the  highlands  that  lie  back  of  South  Brooklyn  and 
overlook  New  York  Harbor.  It  is  2^  miles  from  the  bridge,  and  is 
reached  most  directly  by  the  Fifth  Av.  line  of  the  Brooklyn  El. 
Ry.,  which  has  a  station  at  its  principal  (the  northern)  entrance. 
Carriages  will  be  found  at  the  entrance,  which  i-^^ke  the  tour  of  the 


166 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


cemetery,  and  the  driver  explains  what  are  generally  regarded  as  the 
most  interesting  things  as  he  goes  along.  The  charge  for  the  whole 
ride  is  25  cents.  This  cemetery  was  opened  in  1842,  and  about  250,000 
burials  have  been  made  since  that  time,  including  the  most  distin- 
guished  citizens  of  New  York  and  Brooklyn  who  have  passed  away 
during  the  last  half-century.  The  control  is  not  vested  in  a  private 
corporation,  but  in  a  board  of  public  trustees,  who  now  have  at  its 
disposal,  for  its  maintenance,  a  fund  approaching  $1,000,000.  These 
large  resources,  and  the  wealth  of  many  of  the  families  represented 
upon  the  rolls  of  its  dead,  have  permitted  a  vast  expenditure  m 
beautifying  both  the  public  and  private  parts;  and  there  is  no  bury- 
ing ground  in  the  country  which  compares  wnth  Greenwood  for  the 
cost  and  elaborateness  of  its  mortuary  monuments  or  the  care  taken 
of  it  as  a  whole.  The  stone-bedded,  tile-drained  roads  alone  measure 
25  miles  in  length. 

The  northern  is  the  principal  one  of  the  several  entrances,  and  its 
grand  Gothic  gateway  of  brown  stone,  elaborately  carved,  holds  the 
offices  of  the  administration  and  a  visitors'  room.  Waiting  rooms  will 
also  be  found  at  the  other  entrances,  each  of  which  is  furnished  with 
toilet  rooms,  etc.;  and  near  the  center  of  the  cemetery  —  which  covers 
almost  a  square  mile  (474  acres)  —  is  "The  Shelter  House"  (at  the 
intersection  of  Locust  and  Southwood  Avs.),  designed  for  the  shelter 
of  visitors  who  chance  to  be  remote  from  the  various  entrances  and 
need  the  conveniences  which  it  affords.  From  Plateau  Hill,  and 
from  many  other  points,  far-reaching  and  beautiful  views  of  the  har- 
bor, the  Jersey  shore,  and  New  York  and  Brooklyn  cities  may  be 
obtained,  and  a  walk  of  half  a  mile  from  the  eastern  entrance  will 
take  one  to  Prospect  Park. 

Among  the  thousands  of  mortuary  monuments,  some  are  worthy  of 
special  note.    Among  them  are: 

The  monument  and  bronze  bust  to  Horace  Greeley,  on  Locust  Hill, 
near  Oak  Av. ,  which  was  erected  by  the  printers  of  the  country. 

The  triangular  block  covering  the  remains  of  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse, 
the  inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph;  this  stands  on  High  wood 
Hill,  is  surrounded  by  many  costly  monuments,  and  overlooks  the 
Clinton  monument. 

The  Soldiers'  Monument,  Avhich  is  tall  and  costly,  but  lacks 
impressiveness;  it  stands  on  the  plateau  of  Battle  Hill,  whence  a 
broad  view  is  to  be  gained. 

The  Theater  Fire  Monument,  opposite  the  main  entrance,  under- 
neath which,  in  a  common  grave,  rest  the  unrecognized  and  unclaimed 


GREATER  NEW  YORK. 


167 


bodies  of  those  who  perished  in  the  burning  of  the  Brooklyn  Theater, 
in  December,  1876,  when  over  300  people  lost  their  lives. 

The  Firemen's  Monument,  surmounted  by  the  figure  of  a  fireman 
holding  a  child  in  his  arms.  It  was  erected  by  the  old  volunteer  fire 
department  of  New  York  City,  whose  chief  engineer,  Harry  Howard, 
has  placed  elsewhere  in  the  grounds  a  statue  in  memory  of  his  foster 
mother,  showing  her  as  adopting  him  when  saved  from  a  burning 
building. 

Many  of  the  monuments  take  the  form  of  Greek  or  Gothic  memo- 
rial chapels,  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  and  beautiful  of  which  is 
that  to  Miss  Mary  M.  Dauser,  a  philanthropic  woman,  at  the  inter- 
section of  Fir  and  Vine  Avs. 

Another  temple  worth  special  attention  is  that  of  A.  S.  Scribner,  at 
Cypress  and  Vine  Avs.,  which  was  made  in  Italy  and  contains  the 
figure  of  Hope. 

The  monument  to  commemorate  John  Matthews,  at  the  south- 
westerly end  of  Valley  Water,  is  in  the  form  of  a  richly  carved  canopy 
and  spire  above  a  sculptured  sarcophagus,  upon  the  top  of  which  lies 
a  full-length  marble  figure  of  the  dead  man.  On  the  tablet  under  the 
canopy  is  a  veiled  female  figure  seated  in  a  chair  and  typifying  grief. 
The  artist  was  Carl  Miiller,  and  the  cost  $30,000. 

The  Pilot's  Monument,  erected  by  the  pilots  of  New  York  Harbor 
to  a  hero  among  them;  and  thd  "Sea  Captain's  Statue  "  (to  Capt. 
John  Correja,  holding  the  actual  c-extant  he  was  accustomed  to  use) 
will  interest  those  fond  of  the  sea. 

Other  fine  and  costly  carvings  in  Italian  marble  are  seen  in  the 
monument  to  the  Brown  Brothers,  the  New  York  bankers,  in  the 
emblematic  group  standing  in  the  lot  of  the  elder  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  founder  of  the  New  York  Herald,  and  in  the  famous  Char- 
lotte Cauda  monument,  at  Fern  and  Greenbough  Avs.  The  colossal 
bronze  statue  of  Governor  De  Witt  Clinton,  in  Bay  wood  Dell,  should 
not  be  missed  by  the  visitor  to  Greenwood,  who  will  come  away  feel- 
ing that  perhaps  it  is  as  satisfactory  as  anything  of  the  more  pre- 
tentious sort  in  the  whole  cemetery. 

The  Grant  Statue  at  Grant  Square,  where  Bergen  St.  crosses  Bed- 
ford Av. ,  is  worth  the  attention  of  tourists.  It  stands  in  front  of  the 
splendid  house  of  the  Union  League  Club,  by  which  it  was  presented 
to  the  city,  and  in  one  of  the  most  interesting  neighborhoods  on  "the 
Hill."  It  is  the  work  of  Partridge,  is  of  heroic  size,  in  bronze,  and 
represents  Gen.  Ulysses  S.  Grant  on  his  favorite  horse  in  campaign 
dress,  as  he  appeared  at  the  Battle  of  the  Wilderness.  Very  im- 
posing ceremonies  attended  its  unveiling  in  April,  1895,  and  it  has 
given  satisfaction  to  the  critics  as  well  as  the  citizens. 

The  Navy  Yard.  —  Tourists  from  the  interior  of  the  country  are 
sure  to  be  desirous  of  inspecting  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  in  Brooklyn. 
It  is  on  the  Wallabout  —  a  basin  or  indentation  from  the  East  River. 


168  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


where  in  Revolutionary  days  was  moored  the  dreadful  Jersey,  worst 
of  the  prison  hulks.  It  is  at  the  foot  of  York  St.,  and  may  be  reached 
from  all  parts  of  Brooklyn  by  electric  cars,  two  lines  crossing  the 
bridge  to  Manhattan. 

This  is  the  foremost  naval  station  in  the  country,  and  its  brick  wall 
embraces  a  space  of  45  acres  in  the  yard  proper,  v^hile  100  more  acres 
closely  adjacent  belong  to  the  establishment.  The  space  within  the 
walls  is  largely  occupied  by  huge  machine-shops,  storehouses,  and 
the  offices  of  the  superintendents  of  various  branches  of  the  service. 
The  United  States  Naval  Lyceum,  founded  by  officers  of  the  navy 
in  1833,  is  here  ;  it  has  a  fine  library,  and  a  large  collection  of  histor- 
ical curiosities,  together  with  valuable  geological  and  mineralogica] 
cabinets.  Several  trophies  of  the  prowess  of  the  navy  in  the  earlier 
of  the  country's  wars,  in  the  shape  of  captured  guns  and  mortars, 
are  displayed  in  a  little  park  outside  near  the  headquarters  office. 
The  * '  quarters  "  of  the  officers  of  the  Yard  form  an  interesting  line 
of  old-fashioned  residences  on  high  ground  along  the  south  side  of  the 
premises;  and  the  large,  pillared  structure  seen  in  the  distance,  as 
one  looks  eastward,  is  the  U.  vS.  Marine  Hospital,  where  500 
patients  can  be  taken  care  of.  One  important  shop  was  burned 
in  1899. 

The  Navy  Yard  consists  two  portions,  separated  by  the  deep  bay 
of  "the  basin,"  or  Wallabout,  into  which  the  dry-docks  open.  The 
peninsular  part  outside  of  the  basin  is  called  the  Cob  Dock  and 
forms  an  extensive  park-like  space,  where  musters  and  drills  of 
sailors,  marines,  or  recruits  may  be  witnessed.  The  great  yellow 
hulk,  housed  in,  permanently  moored  on  the  outer  margin  of  the 
Cob  Dock  is  the  old  frigate  Vermont,  forming  a  "receiving  ship," 
that  is  a  recruiting  station,  furnishing  depot,  and  home  for  recruits 
and  sailors  while  prepairing  for  or  awaiting  assignment  to  service. 
Ships  in  commission  often  lie  at  the  wharves  of  the  Cob  Dock,  to 
which  a  small  ferry  boat  runs  from  the  mainland  of  the  Yard,  but 
usually  some  sort  of  special  permission  must  be  obtained  in  order  to 
cross  in  it  to  the  Cob  Dock  and  visit  the  Ver^nont  or  other  naval 
ships  there.  Within  the  basin  often  lie  many  naval  ships,  transports, 
torpedo  boats,  etc.,  in  or  out  of  commission.  These  are  usually 
r.ccessible  to  visitors  in  the  afternoon;  but  visitors  are  advised  to 
make  arrangements  beforehand,  if  possible,  with  some  officer  of  the 
Yard  or  of  the  ship  they  wish  to  inspect.    It  will  smooth  the  way. 


169 


170 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


The  Graving  or  Dry-docks  on  the  basin  front  are  of  the  greatest 
interest,  Their  dimensions  are  as  lollows :  No.  i  (wood)  length, 
362  feet  over  all,  331  feet  on  the  floor;  breadth  across  top,  66  feet; 
draught,  25  feet.  No.  2  (granite)  length  over  all,  491  feet;  on  floor, 
450  feet;  breadth  across  top,  85  feet,  breadth  of  entrance  floor,  52  feet; 
draught,  25}^  feet.  No.  3  (granite)  length  over  all,  657  feet;  on  floor, 
564  feet;  breadth  across  top,  70  feet ;  on  entrance  floor,  64  feet; 
draught,  29  feet.  (From  figures  furnished  by  Captain  of  the  Yard, 
Dec.  14,  1898,  omitting  fractions.)  The  huge  steam  pumps  belong- 
ing to  these  docks  can  empty  them  of  water  in  a  few  hours.  In 
order  to  handle  the  vast  pieces  of  plate-armor,  machinery,  gun-car- 
riages, and  guns  themselves  required  to  be  moved  to  and  from 
modern  ships,  the  Yard  possesses  a  floati7ig  crane,  which  is  con- 
spicuous and  interesting,  as  it  will  lift  and  swing  to  any  point  within 
its  reach  a  weight  of  75  tons  ;  but  a  new  loo-ton  crane  is  now  being 
erected  to  supplement  and  exceea  the  capability  of  this  mighty  engine. 
About  2,000  men  are  ordinarily  employed  at  this  Navy  Yard. 

Stafen  Island. 

The  description  already  given  (see  Harbor)  of  the  shores  of  Staten 
Island  forestalls  the  need  of  any  extended  remarks  here.  The  ferry 
from  New  York  lands  at  St.  George,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
island.  This  is  the  terminus  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio's  branch  line 
which  crosses  from  Elizabeth,  N.  J.,  by  a  splendid  bridge,  but  thus 
far  is  used  exclusively  as  a  freight-carrying  route,  and  it  is  the  cen- 
tral station  of  the  Staten  Island  Rapid  Transit  Railroad,  which 
reaches  all  the  shore  villages  of  importance. 

Staten  Island  is  hilly  and  contains  many  attractive  spots  and 
much  excellent  farming  land.  The  views  of  the  harbor  and  harbor- 
shores  gained  from  its  northern  highlands  are  exceedingly  fine, 
while  the  most  charming  and  artistic  river  scenery  is  to  be  had  along 
Arthur  Kill  and  the  sound  separating  the  island  from  New  Jersey. 
Quaint  old  ports  are  scattered  along  the  southern  shore,  and  the  odd 
little  villages  throughout  the  interior,  as  countrified  as  if  they  were 
away  in  the  woods  of  Cattaraugus.  But  interspersed  everywhere  are 
the  modern  and  luxurious  country  residences  of  w^ealthy  New 
Yorkers,  who  go  back  anvl  forth  daily.  This  interior  is  traversed 
only  by  wagon  roads,  Richmo7id,  the  judicial  seat  of  the  island 
(when  it  was  Richmond  County),  being  itself  away  from  the  railroad, 
but  accessible  by  trolley  cars  from  St.  George. 

Sailor's  Snug  Harbor.— The  most  interesting  and  notable  thing 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  island  is  this  asylum  for  aged  and  infirm  sea- 


GREATER  NEW  YORK. 


171 


men,  half  a  mile  beyond  New  Brighton.  This  benefice  is  the  result 
of  a  bequest  made  at  the  beginning  of  last  century  by  Capt,  Richard 
Randall,  then  a  prominent  member  of  the  Marine  Society  of  New 
York.  This  bequest  consisted  mainly  of  his  farm,  whose  southern 
boundary  was  the  line  of  the  present  Astor  Place,  and  which  yielded 
to  the  trustees  about  $40,000.  This  has  been  so  carefully  managed 
that  the  property  of  the  Harbor  now  approaches  $18,000,000  in  value, 
and  the  income  vSuffices  to  care  for  :  ,000  beneficiaries.  Its  stately 
and  complete  buildings  occupy  a  park  and  attached  farming  lands 
amounting  together  to  185  acres.  About  750  pensioners  are  at  pres- 
ent on  the  rolls,  all  of  whom  have  seen  a  certain  amount  of  actual 
service  as  sailormen.  The  institution  is  open  to  visitors  at  all  suit- 
able hours,  and  is  well  worth  inspection,  especially  in  summer,  when 
the  grounds  and  the  water-views  they  afford  are  admirable.  A  mort- 
uary monument  covering  the  bones  of  the  founder  stands  near  the 
main  entrance,  and  in  another  part  of  the  park  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Randall,  by  Augusta  St.  Gaudens,  which  is  one  of  the  most  satisfac- 
tory pieces  of  sculpture  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  York.  The 
visitor  should  take  pains  to  see,  within  the  buildings,  the  workshops, 
where  scores  of  cheerful  old  mariners  sit  in  the  sunshine,  smoke 
their  pipes  and  work  at  plaiting  baskets,  mats,  and  other  articles 
of  straw,  netting  hammocks,  fishnets,  tidies,  etc.,  and  rigging  toy 
models  of  painfully  accurate  schooners,  brigs,  and  full-rigged  ships. 
These  articles  are  sold  by  them,  and  the  more  able  and  industrious 
make  a  considerable  income  in  this  way.  The  Sailor's  Snug  Harbor 
is  as  sunny  and  cheerful  a  refuge  as  can  be  found  in  the  Union. 

Prohibition  Park  (Westerleigh)  reached  by  cars  from  St.  George 
or  Port  Richmond,  is  an  exclusive  community  of  persons  primarily 
interested  in  the  prohibition  of  intoxicating  liquors  as  a  beverage. 
The  leader  of  the  enterprise  is  Dr.  I.  K.  Funk,  of  Funk  &  Wagnalls. 
The  park  is  now  the  home  of  many  men  of  wealth  and  cultivation, 
who  are  making  a  beautiful  village  there.  A  feature  is  the  great 
auditorium  in  which  a  summer  programme  of  lectures,  exhibitions, 
conventions,  and  meetings  is  in  progress  from  June  to  October, 
attracting  a  large  number  of  visitors  interested  in  various  "  causes." 

The  South  Side  of  the  island  has  stations  for  Quarantine  (Staple- 
ton),  Fort  Wadsworth  (one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  railroad),  and 
South  Beach,  a  summer  beach-resort  (also  reached  by  a  steamboat 
line  irom  the  Battery),  which  is  a  small  imitation  of  Coney  Island, 


172 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


with  various  cheap  restaurants  and  amusement  places,  and  plentiful 
"  beer  and  skittles." 

Midland  Beach  is  a  newer,  far  more  select,  and  really  pleasant 
place,  a  mile  beyond  and  reached  by  an  interesting  electric-car  route. 

Trolley  Lines  and  Ferries. — Electric  car  lines  have  spread  greatly 
here,  of  late,  the  rivalry  of  two  companies  now  making  all  the  north- 
ern parts  of  the  island  accessible  by  cars  from  St.  George,  which 
reach  southward  to  Fort  Wad^worth,  South  Beach,  Midland  Beach, 
the  new  shore-resort,  and  Richmond.  Inland,  cars  run  along 
pleasant  country  roads,  such  as  the  Richmond  turnpike.  Other  lines 
skirt  the  northern  terrace,  and  connect  by  ferry  at  Port  Richmond 
with  Bergen  Point  and  trolley  lines  to  Jersey  City.  The  same  lines 
continue  along  the  north  shore  to  Rowland  Hook,  where  a  new  ferry 
takes  passengers  across  to  Elizabethport,  whence  they  can  reach  any 
part  of  suburban  New  Jersey  by  electric  cars. 

A  ferry  is  now  run  between  Tompkinsville  and  Sruth  Brooklyn. 


XII. 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS. 

One  chapter  can  hardly  contain  more  than  a  mere  suggestion  as  to 
the  accessibiUty  and  distinctive  characteristics  of  the  seashore  resorts 
near  New  York.  These  fall  into  two  classes,  namely  :  the  coast  of 
Long  Island  and  the  coast  of  New  Jersey. 

The  principal  starting  place  in  New  York  for  steamboats  to  the 
seaside  is  at  South  Ferry  (the  Battery) ;  and  in  Brooklyn  from  the 
foot  of  Fulton  St.  The  times  of  departure  and  rates  of  fare  are  fully 
advertised  daily 

Long  Island  Coast — Coney  Island  and  Rockaway. 

The  ocean  beaches  at  the  western  extremity  of  Long  Island  are 
comprehended  under  the  general  designations  "Coney  Island"  and 
"  Rockaway."  Important  distinctions  between  the  separate  parts  of 
each  of  these  seaside  resorts  exist,  however,  and  should  be  noted.  A 
very  pleasant  nearby  resort  is  Bergen  Beach  on  Jamaica  Bay,  reached 
by  one  of  the  most  delightful  trolley  rides  out  of  Brooklyn  ;  it  con- 
tains a  hotel  built  in  1652. 

Coney  Island  proper,  including  West  Brighton,  is  the  western- 
most, oldest,  most  crowded  and  democratic  part  of  this  whole  series 
of  beaches.  Here  "  there  is  a  motley  crowd  of  hotels,  big  and  little, 
concert  stands,  beer-gardens,  variety  shows,  skating  rinks,  wooden 
toboggan-slides,  shooting-galleries,  bathing-houses,  merry-go-rounds, 
inclined  railways,  museums,  aquariums,  brass-bands,  pop-corn  and 
hot-sausage  venders  ;"  in  fact,  everything  that  can  be  thought  of  for 
amusement  and  penny-catching.  Out  from  the  beach  extend  two 
long  iron  piers,  with  bathing-houses  beneath  them  and  restaurants, 
etc.,  at  the  end;  and  here  (and  here  alone)  is  where  the  steamboats 
from  New  York  land  their  passengers.  The  bathing  arrangements 
here  are  good.  West  Brighton  is  thronged  with  people  of  every  kind 
from  noon  till  midnight,  and  most  of  all  on  Sundays ;  but  there  are 
certainly  more  plebeians  than  patricians. 

Brighton. — Half  a  mile  east  of  West  Brighton  is  Brighton,  the 

173 


174 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


favorite  beach  for  Brooklyn  people.  Here  is  a  huge  hotel,  which  has 
been  repeatedly  moved  back  from  the  shore,  out  of  the  way  of  the 
waves  ;  and  the  beautiful  grounds  have  more  than  once  been  ruined 
by  the  devastation  of  gale  and  salt  spray.  The  piazzas  are  so  broad 
that  2,000  persons  may  sit  down  at  once  at  the  tables  set  in  them,  and 
still  leave  ample  space  for  promenading  ;  and  20,000  meals  may  be 
given  in  a  single  day.  The  prices  are  not  excessive,  though  some- 
what in  advance  of  average  rates  in  the  city.  In  front  of  this  hotel 
is  a  band-stand,  canopied  by  a  huge  shell-shaped  sounding-board, 
where  an  orchestra  gives  concerts  twice  a  day.  The  bathing-houses 
are  of  great  size  and  conveniently  arranged,  but  none  of  them  ob- 
structs the  seaward  outlook.  An  excellent  vaudeville  theater  is  the 
only  amusement  outside  the  hotel.  Reached  by  elevated  cars  from 
Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  trolley  cars  from  Coney  Island. 

Manhattan  Beach. — This  resort,  next  east  of  Brighton  Beach,  is 
the  favorite  place  for  New  Yorkers  of  the  well-to-do  class,  and  un- 
doubtedly the  spot  to  which  the  visitor  will  oftenest  return.  The 
Manhattan  grounds  are  occupied  by  the  structures  and  grounds  about 
two  vast  hotels  —  the  "  Manhattan  "  and  the  Oriental."  The  former 
is  at  the  terminus  from  the  railroad  to  New  York  and  Brooklyn,  and 
at  the  western  end  of  the  beach,  nearest  Brighton.  The  beach  in 
front  is  protected  by  a  piled  breakwater  which  supports  a  planked 
walk,  and  a  broad  space  of  asphalted  walks,  lawns  and  flower-beds  is 
arranged,  with  a  great  number  of  park  benches.  Here  one  may 
stroll  or  sit  at  ease,  with  the  ocean  on  one  hand  and  the  gay  bustle  of 
the  hotel  piazzas  on  the  other.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  a 
sort  of  out-door  theater  shed,  in  which  Sousa's  band,  sitting  inside 
a  vast  concavity  which  acts  as  a  sounding-board,  discourses  music 
afternoons  and  evenings.  A  few  rods  down  the  beach  are  the  bathing- 
houses,  which  contain  no  less  than  2,700  rooms  and  all  possible  con- 
veniences. Half  a  mile  eastward,  and  connected  with  the  Manhattan 
by  abroad  walk  and  series  of  lawns,  is  the  great  Oriental  Hotel,  with 
its  own  esplanade  and  bathing  establishment.  Steam  and  trolley  cars. 

Rockaway. — The  next  beach  east  of  Coney  Island,  from  which  it 
is  separated  by  the  outlet  of  Jamaica  Bay,  is  Rockaway.  This  is  one 
ol  the  oldest  seaside  resorts  on  the  Long  Island  shore,  and  may  be 
reached  either  by  the  Long  Island  R.  R.,  by  Brooklyn  trolley  cars,  or 
by  steamboat.  The  latter  route  carries  by  far  the  greater  number  of 
excursionists.  Rockaway  has  lost  the  elegance  and  prestige  which 
belonged  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  before  Brighton  and  Man- 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS. 


175 


hattan  were  constructed,  and  the  place  is  now  the  resort  ot  those  who 
need  or  prefer  to  take  their  amusement  cheaply,  and  are  not  too 
particular  as  to  fashionable  tone.  The  general  aspect  at  all  four 
landings  is  much  like  that  at  the  West  End  of  Coney  Island. 

Coast  of  New  Jersey. 

The  principal  seaside  resorts  upon  the  coast  of  New  Jersey  are  : 
The  Highlands,  Seabright,  Long  Branch,  Asbury  Park,  Ocean 
Grove,  and  Sea  Girt.  These  are  accessible  by  railroad,  but  the 
pleasanter  way  is  to  go  by  the  steamboats  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of 
New  Jersey,  from  the  foot  of  Cedar  St.  and  foot  of  42d  St.  to  Atlan- 
tic Highlands,  and  thence  on  by  rail.  This  is  known  as  the  Sandy 
Hook  route. 

Atlantic  Highlands  is  a  village  with  several  hotels  on  Sandy 
Hook.  There  is  much  of  picturesque  and  historic  interest  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Long  Branch  was  a  favorite  resort  for  summer  visitors  to  the  sea- 
side (particularly  those  from  Philadelphia)  a  century  ago.  '*The 
Long  Branch  of  to-day  .  .  .  may  be  described  in  one  sentence: 
It  is  the  only  resort  on  the  coast  which  supports  a  synagogue;  the 
'  tiger '  has  two  superbly  appointed  jungles;  it  is  '  fashionable  '  in  the 
sense  in  which  the  word  is  used  by  those  who  fondly  imagine  that 
lavish  display  of  wealth  is  evidence  of  high  social  position.  It  may 
be  judged  from  the  foregoing  that  Long  Branch  is  not  a  place 
whither  a  circumspect  parent  would  take  his  family  for  a  quiet  sum- 
mer by  the  sea;  but  for  those  who  like  to  be  in  the  whirl  of  a  '  fash- 
ionable '  watering-place  it  is  without  a  rival." 

But  those  who  would  not  care  to  live  at  Long  Branch  may  find 
interest  enough  to  tempt  them  to  one  or  more  day's  stay  there.  A 
line  of  steamers,  supplemented  by  many  irregular  excursions,  lands 
its  passengers  at  the  Iron  Pier,  which  extends  800  ft.  out  to  deep 
water,  at  a  height  of  20  ft.  above  the  tide.  The  base  of  this  pier 
rests  upon  Ocean  Avenue,  a  part  of  the  "beach  drive  "  which  runs 
from  Sandy  Hook  to  Barnegat  Bay.  Ocean  Avenue  toward  even- 
ing is  probably  the  liveliest  thoroughfare  in  the  United  States.  Here 
one  can  see  almost  every  kind  of  vehicle  —  stages  crowded  with 
excursionists,  buggies  drawn  by  swift  roadsters,  tandems,  four-in- 
hands,  T-carts,  etc.,  many  of  them  perfectly  appointed,  and  each 
interesting  in  its  own  way,  as  representing  one  of  the  many  types  of 
people  to  be  found  at  this  resort. 


176 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Asbury  Park.  —This  modern  and  popular  resort  is  really  an  out- 
growth of  Ocean  Grove.  Its  summer  population  is  said  to  now  reach 
60,000,  and  it  has  become  a  beautiful  village,  with  streets  hard,  well 
drained,  and  properly  sewered;  electric  street-cars,  good  sidewalks, 
banks,  newspapers,  an  opera-house,  a  library  and  lecture  hall,  elec- 
tric lights,  public  artesian  water,  and  a  plank  walk  a  mile  long  on  the 
sea-beach,  connecting  with  the  esplanade  of  Ocean  Grove,  have 
arisen  where  twenty  years  ago  was  little  or  nothing. 


ASBURY  PARK,  N.  J. 


Ocean  Grove,  a  seaside  town  under  the  control  of  an  association  of 
Methodist  clergymen,  which  owes  its  origin  (1868)  to  the  need  of  larger 
space  and  better  accommodations  for  the  annual  summer  camp- 
meetings  formerly  held  at  Vineland,  N.  J.  The  object  in  view  of  its 
founders  was  to  establish  a  school  and  nursery  of  religious  influence, 
where  people  would  be  attracted  to  remain  for  rest  and  out-door 
recreation.  To  this  end,  everything  has  been  done  to  further  the 
exclusiveness,  not  only,  but  the  devotional  spirit  of  the  place.  The 
streets  are  named  after  localities  prominent  in  sacred  history  or  after 
the  fathers  of  the  Methodist  Church,  and  the  largest  buildings  in  the 
place  are  the  Auditorium,  the  Tabernacle,  intended  mainly  for  **  holi- 


ASBURY  PARK,  NEW  JERSEY,  SEA  SHORE  RESORT 

50  MILES  FROM  NEW  YORK  CITY 


178 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


ness"  meetings,  the  Young  People's  Temple,  and  a  topographical 
model  of  modern  Jerusalem,  of  real  size.  The  new  Auditorium, 
built  in  1893,  is  a  vast  oval  hall,  spanned  by  a  roof  of  a  single  arch, 
which  will  seat  nearly  10,000  people.  It  is  magnificently  lighted  by 
electricity,  is  dignified  in  its  simplicity,  and  is  one  of  the  largest,  and 
probably  the  most  satisfactory, meeting-hall  in  the  country  and  per- 
haps in  the  world.  Its  cost,  approaching  $100,000,  was  defrayed 
wholly  by  voluntary  subscriptions  ;  and  there  is  rarely  any  charge 
for  admission  ;  but  a  collection  is  taken  up  at  nearly  every  meeting. 
Innumerable  association  meetings  and  religious  conventions  or 
special  services  are  held,  in  addition  to  the  daily  stated  meetings  for 
preaching,  prayer  or  praise,  during  the  two  midsummer  months,  and 
the  effort  at  religious  revival  is  incessant.  The  fanatical  outward 
manifestation  which  accompanied  this  spirit,  and  the  ascetic  rules 
of  the  early  days,  have  been  much  relaxed  of  late  years  ;  and  now 
one  sees  little  outward  difference  between  Asbury  Park  and  Ocean 
Grove,  except  the  great  number  of  quaint  and  pretty  canvas  cottages 
which  form  whole  streets  in  the  latter  town.  The  hotels  are  good, 
many  of  the  houses  costly  and  elegant,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful 
grounds;  the  town  is  well  sewered  and  watered,  has  gas  and  electric 
lights,  and  the  religious  intent  of  the  community  is  no  longer  made 
burdensome  to  a  resident  who  may  not  care  to  participate  in  it  as 
fully  as  his  neighbor.    Trolley  cars  run  south  as  far  as  Bel  Mar. 

Westchesier  County. 

The  hills  and  dales  of  Westchester  County,  which  joins  New  York 
County  and  City  on  the  north,  are  densely  populated,  and  many  pretty 
towns  and  villages  may  be  counted.  Yonkers  is  on  the  Hudson, 
and  joins  the  northern  limits  of  New  York.  It  has  47,931  citizens,  a 
great  part  of  whom  come  regularly  to  business  in  the  metropolis. 
Next  eastward,  covering  the  central  hills,  is  Mt.  Vernon,  a  scattered 
cown  with  stations  on  both  the  Hudson  River  and  New  Haven 
railroads,  and  many  beautiful  drives.  Still  farther  east  is  historic 
Westchester.  Eastchester  and  Pelham  are  hamlets  at  the  head 
of  inlets  from  Long  Island  Sound,  and  are  traversed  by  the  Harlem 
Branch  of  the  New  Haven  R.  R.  New  Roche  lie,  17  miles  from 
Grand  Central  Depot,  on  the  New  Haven  R.  R.,  is  exceedingly 
pretty  and  popular  with  New  Yorkers.  It  was  settled  in  very  early 
times  by  Huguenots,  and  preserves  many  interesting  relics  of  its 
colonial  period.    It  may  be  reached  by  trolley  via  Mt.  Vernon. 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS. 


179 


The  New  Jersey  Shore. 

Although  in  another  State,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Hudson, 
the  cities  fronting  upon  the  western  side  of  the  North  River  are  an 
integral  part  of  the  Metropolitan  District,  since  a  great  number  of 
their  inhabitants  do  business  in  New  York  and  pass  back  and  forth 
daily.  These  are  Jersey  City,  Hoboken,  West  Hoboken,  Gutenberg, 
and  Weehawken. 

Jersey  City. — This  great  town,  which  has  absorbed  several  con- 
tiguous and  once  separate  municipalities,  now  has  206,433  popula- 
tion, and  stretches  from  the  harbor  shore  opposite  the  Liberty  Statue 
to  the  Hoboken  line  opposite  the  foot  of  Christopher  St. ,  New  York  ; 
and  it  reaches  back  to  the  Hackensack  River  and  Meadows.  Its 
front  is  low  land,  a  large  breadth  of  which  has  been  reclaimed  from 
the  harbor,  inclosing  the  great  Communipaw  Basin  at  the  outlet  of 
the  Morris  &  Essex  Canal,  in  the  rear  of  the  terminus  of  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  New  Jersey.  This  low  frontage,  known  originally  as 
Paulus  Hook  (or  Point),  offered  less  inducement  to  the  early  settlers 
than  other  equally  accessible  districts  near  New  Amsterdam,  and 
was  doubly  exposed  to  Indian  depredations.  It  was  therefore  slow 
to  be  settled  and  cultivated  ;  and  the  prejudice  thus  naturally  begun 
has  been  unnaturally  continued  in  the  minds  of  New  Yorkers  ever 
since.  This  feeling  is  intensified  by  th:,  fact  that  the  traveler  on  any 
of  the  railways  that  pass  through  Jersey  City  sees  only  the  forlornest 
streets  ;  and  also  by  the  fact  that  the  town  offers  no  one  special 
attraction  to  the  public  gaze.  The  water-front  is  for  the  most  part 
in  possession  of  railway  and  steamship  companies.  Behind  them  are 
a  great  number  of  factories,  some  of  immense  proportions  —  notably 
large  glass  works,  crucible  works,  steel  works,  zinc  works,  locomo- 
tive works,  boiler  and  machine  shops,  founderies,  etc.  The  lofty 
piles  of  the  sugar  refineries  form  a  conspicuous  object  near  the  center 
of  the  city,  as  one  crosses  from  New  York.  A  mile  back  from  the 
river-front  the  long  rocky  ridge  of  Bergen  Heights  —  a  continuation 
of  the  Hudson  Highlands  —  extends  north  and  south  as  an  elevated 
peninsula  between  New  York  and  Newark  Bays,  as  far  as  the  pretty 
village  of  Bergen  Point ;  and  furnishes  a  fine  building  site  for  resi- 
dences, where  the  windows  overlook  the  panorama  of  the  whole  har- 
bor. Upon  this  hill  are  many  very  pleasant  streets  and  some  fine 
churches  and  schools  ;  but  there  is  little  or  nothing  in  the  town  to 
interest  the  casual  sight-seer.    Electric  trolley-cars  run  to  all  parts 


180 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


of  the  city  and  to  the  neighboring  cities,  including  lines  to  Newark. 
All  these  concentrate  in  a  Union  Station  at  the  foot  of  Montgomery 
St.,  the  landing  place  for  the  ferries  from  Cortlandt  and  Debrosses 
Sts.,  New  York.  The  great  new  station  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R. 
is  at  this  ferry. 

Hoboken. — North  of  Jersey  City  (Hoboken  Av.  is  the  dividing  line) 
lies  the  very  convenient  but  unlovely  city  of  Hoboken.  Its  water- 
front is  made  by  the  wharves  of  several  great  transatlantic  steamer 
lines,  particularly  those  sailing  to  the  German  ports,  and  by  the 
station  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  Railway  system, 
including  the  Morris  &  Essex  branch,  which  does  such  an  extensive 
suburban  business  throughout  "The  Oranges."  At  this  station  land 
the  *'  Hoboken  "  ferries  from  Barclay  and  Christopher  Sts. ;  and  here 
start  the  electric  cars  of  the  Elevated  Railroad  to  the  hilltop  and 
Hudson  County  Court  House,  and  of  various  surface  lines.  The 
population  of  Hoboken  (60,000)  is  very  largely  German,  and  is 
devoted  to  manufacturing  to  a  considerable  extent.  It  has;  one  dis- 
tinctly American  institution,  however,  in  the  Stevens  Distitute, 
which  occupies  a  wooded  promontory  of  rocks  that  juts  out  into  the 
river  conspicuously  and  is  covered  by  a  pretty  park.  This  is  a  poly- 
technic and  scientific  school  of  high  rank,  founded  by  the  late  Com- 
modore Stevens,  who  equipped  the  "Stevens  Battery,"  famous  in 
the  early  part  of  the  Civil  War  ;  and  whose  "  castle  "  overtops  the 
trees  of  w^hat  was  formerly  his  estate. 

Weehawken  is  another  little  city,  north  of  Hoboken  and  under  the 
hill  which  here  approaches  the  water  more  closely  than  below\  It 
was  the  scene  of  Revolutionary  operations  ;  and  here,  a  few  years 
later,  Alexander  Hamilton  and  Aaron  Burr  fought  the  duel  which 
cost  the  former  his  life.  Now  it  is  known  principally  as  the 
terminus  c^i  the  New  York,  West  Shore  &  Buffalo  and  the  Ontario  & 
Western  iailroads,  and  is  connected  with  42d  St.  and  Franklin 
St.,  New  York,  and  with  Brooklyn,  by  ferries.  On  the  summit  of 
the  lofty  bluffs  is  a  scattered  German  community,  and  very  pleasant 
strolling  places  along  the  wooded  cliffs  northward,  which  command 
a  magnificent  outlook  far  down  the  bay.  This  locality  is  reached  by 
electric  cars  from  the  ferry,  whose  cars  run  out  to  the  old  Guttenberg 
race  track,  and  up  to  Hudson  Heights  and  Fort  Lee. 

Fort  Lee,  at  the  foot  of  the  Palisades  of  the  Hudson,  and  opposite 
Washington  Heights,  is  a  small  village  upon  ground  memorable  since 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS. 


181 


Revolutionary  times,  which  for  many  years  has  been  an  excursion  and 
picnic  point,  but  is  now  of  small  account.    Ferry  from  West  125th  St. 

Inland  Towns  of  New  Jersey. 

Newark  is  the  largest  city  in  New  Jersey,  only  9  miles  from  the 
City  Hall,  New  York,  and  separated  from  Jersey  City  only  by  the 
salt  meadows  along  the  Hackensack  River^  It  lies  for  the  most  part 
along  the  west  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  and  small  steamers  and 
sailing  craft  ascend  to  the  city's  w^harves.  It  has  now  about  250,000 
population,  only  a  small  portion  of  which  does  business  daily  in  New 
York,  for,  notwithstanding  its  proximity,  Newark  is  self-contained  in 
a  greater  degree  than  any  other  town  near  the  metropolis.  The  rapid 
growth  of  Newark  is  chiefly  ownng  to  its  manufactures.  These 
embrace  almost  every  branch  of  industry,  but  particularly  excel  in 
jewelry  buttons  and  ornamental  novelties,  iron  fabrics,  India  rubber 
goods,  leather  and  leathern  articles,  drugs,  clothing,  hats,  and  in  the 
production  of  malt  liquors. 

Elizabeth  is  another  manufacturing  city,  a  few  miles  south  of 
Newark,  upon  the  shore  of  Newark  Bay.  It  is  a  very  old  town  ; 
many  of  its  streets  are  shaded  by  fine  old  trees,  and  the  residence 
portion  contains  charmingly  old-fashioned  mansions,  the  homes  of 
wealthy  families.  Foremost  among  its  factories  is  the  enormous 
establishment  of  the  Singer  Sewing  Machine  Company,  w^hich  prac- 
tically supports  the  waterside  suburb  called  Elizabethport. 

Rahway  is  a  pretty  town  of  about  8,000  people,  five  miles  south- 
west of  Elizabeth  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  It  is  the  residence  of 
niany  men  doing  business  in  New  York,  and  is  surrounded  by  orchards 
and  fruit  farms.  New  Brunswick,  12  miles  beyond,  and  32  miles 
from  New  York,  is  an  interesting  old  place  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Raritan  River,  where  the  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  begins 
its  overland  course  to  Trenton.  There  are  many  large  factories  there, 
but  its  chief  interest  to  strangers  lies  in  Rutger's  College  —  an  old 
seat  of  learning  under  the  care  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church, 
which  can  be  seen  from  the  cars  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  as  they 
cross  the  lofty  bridge  spanning  the  river  and  canal. 

The  Oranges,  and  the  region  generally  north  and  west  from  Newark, 
is  the  best  known  and  most  favorite  district  for  suburban  residences  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  city.  It  is  reached  by  the  Morris 
and  Essex  line  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.,  from 
Hoboken,  and  the  stations  are  hardly  half  a  mile  apart.    These  are, 


182 


HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY, 


m  succession,  after  leaving  Newark,  Grove  St.,  East  Orange,  Brick 
Church,  Orange,  Highland  Av.,  Mountain  Station,  and  South 
Orange.  The  last  is  14  miles  from  New  York.  The  whole  region, 
which  gradually  rises  westerly  into  the  Orange  Hills,  is  highly 
cultivated  and  thickly  set  with  the  homes  of  New  Yorkers. 

The  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  gives  access  to  one  of  the 
most  populous  and  beautiful  districts  of  New  Jersey,  suburban  to 
the  metropolis,  which  has  been  compactly  described  as  follows: 

•'The  territory  in  question  includes  the  vast  New  Jersey  coast, 
with  branches  leading  from  it  (the  coast  line  of  rail)  to  the  nearby 
interior  towns;  the  delightful  suburban  or  permanent  home  section 
between  New  York  and  Somerville;  the  level  stretch  down  through 
historic  old  Monmouth  County,  the  most  fertile  county  in  New  Jersey; 
Lakewood,  the  famous  winter  resort,  and  the  wilderness  of  pines  that 
stand  like  dusky  sentinels  for  miles  around  it,  imparting  a  most 
delicious,  health -giving  odor  to  the  air;  delightful  South  Jersey,  with 
its  quaint,  long-lived  people,  its  creeks,  rivers,  and  bays,  its  wild-fowl 
shooting  and  its  everlasting  still-water  fishing,  crabbing,  clamming, 
and  oystering,  the  rich  farming  and  dairy  region  along  the  main  line 
through  Somerset,  Hunterdon,  and  Warren  counties  to  Phillipsburg; 
over  the  wild,  mountainous  High  Bridge  Branch  through  a  section  of 
country  abounding  in  pastoral  scenes,  with  shady  woods,  streams,  and 
valleys  in  view  at  all  times,  with  Budd's  Lake,  the  pride  of  Morris 
County,  close  at  hand,  and  fair  Lake  Hopatcong,  New  Jersey's  most 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  nestling  in  the  hills  of  Morris  and  Sussex 
counties,  as  though  dividing  the  honor  with  them,  all  in  plain  view  of 
trains  approaching  the  station  at  Nolan's  Point;  and,  lastly,  the  grand 
scenic  region  along  the  Lehigh  River  from  Easton  westward,  taking 
in  Bethlehem,  Allentown,  Catasauqua,  Mauch  Chunk,  Glen  Onoko, 
Wilkesbarre,  and  terminating  at  the  great  manufacturing  city  of 
Scranton." 

Newark  is  reached  by  more  than  fifty  trains  daily,  landing  pas- 
sengers in  the  heart  of  the  city,  on  Broad  Street,  near  Market 
Street,  by  the  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey, 

The  Main  Line  passes  along  the  shore  of  New  York  Bay  through 
a  continuous  town,  Bayonne  beginning  where  Jersey  City  stops.  The 
stations  here  are  less  than  a  mile  apart,  and  the  people  are  served  by 
no  less  than  fifty-six  trains  each  way,  daily,  to  Elizabeth,  and  forty 
each  way  to  small  way  stations.  At  Elizabeth,  the  station  is  a  hand- 
some structure  in  the  center  of  this  attractive  city.  Beyond 
Elizabeth  a  series  of  lovely  and  growing  towns  succeed  one  another 
rapidly,  tenanted  by  residents  of  the  best  class,  who  take  great  pride 
in  maintaining  a  high  degree  of  beauty,  healthfulness,  and  social 
comfort  in  their  villages;  no  suburban  route  out  of  New  York  shows 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS. 


183 


more  elegant  and  delightful  homes.  El  Mora  and  Lorraine  are  in 
the  edge  of  Elizabeth,  and  then,  fifteen  miles  from  New  York,  conies 
Rose  lie,  a  park -like  village,  having  an  excellent  inn,  a  Casino  Club, 
and  no  factories;  the  historic  rural  community  of  Connecticut  Farms 
is  close  by.  The  rising  town  of  Kenilworth  lies  a  short  distance 
northwest.  The  building  up  here  of  a  new  manufacturing  commu- 
nity is  the  enterprise  of  a  powerful  association  which  has  acquired  an 
immense  and  favorable  site  connected  with  all  the  neighboring  rail- 
ways by  a  belt  line.  Cra?tford,  the  next  station  of  importance,  is  a 
shady  residence  town,  which  has  a  Country  Club  and  a  Golf  Club; 
and  is  growing  rapidly  in  numbers  and  in  favor.  At  Garwood  a 
flourishing  manufacturing  town  is  making  progress.  Westfield 
is  an  older  village  of  about  6,000  inhabitants,  having  many  attrac- 
tions, one  of  which  is  the  handsome  Athletic  Club's  house,  which 
forms  a  social  headquarters.  There  is  a  golf  course  of  excellence  at 
Westfield  also.  The  excellence  of  the  roads  throughout  this  level  dry- 
soiled  region,  where  motoring  is  an  unlimited  pleasure,  is  particularly 
noticeable  in  this  vicinity,  and  thence  to  Fanivood,  an  old-time  town 
on  Scotch  Plains,  which  has  been  made  by  its  wealthy  residents  into 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cottage  colonies  "in  New  Jersey;  Glen- 
side  Park,  upon  the  hills  three  miles  away,  is  another  growing  center 
of  fashionable  suburban  life.  Netherwood,  the  next  station,  adjoins 
Fanwood,  and,  like  it,  is  the  home  of  families  of  wealth  and  refine- 
ment. Its  powerful  waterworks  supply  a  wide  area  of  surrounding 
villages.  Only  a  mile  beyond  is  the  city  of  Plainfield,  having  about 
30,000  population,  and  all  the  improvements  of  modern  municipal 
life.  Every  one  who  knows  Plainfield  unites  in  praise  of  it  as  a 
place  of  residence;  and  its  surroundings,  especially  toward  the 
mountainous  west,  are  so  beautiful  that  strangers  might  well  visit  it 
for  the  sake  of  a  day's  excursion.  The  schools  and  churches  of  this 
town  are  far-famed,  and  are  the  product  of  the  intellectual  and 
refined  spirit  that  has  animated  the  people  there  since  its  pre- Revo- 
lutionary beginning.  Great  historical  interest,  connected  with  the 
Revolutionary  era,  belongs  to  the  whole  neighborhood,  especially 
about  Scotch  Plains,  accessible  from  Plainfield  by  trolley  cars. 


1«4  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  NEW  YORK  CITY. 

Bound  Brook,  a  fine  old  town  on  the  Raritan  River,  which  is  the 
home  of  many  New  Yorkers  as  well  as  of  old  local  families,  is  the 
point  where  the  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  connects  with 
the  Reading  Railroad,  by  which  the  trains  of  the  Royal  Blue  Line 
run  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  Finderne  is  a  pleasant 
village  just  beyond,  and  then  the  end  of  the  "Suburban  Section"  is 
reached  at  Sonerville,  a  fine  old  country  town  much  in  favor  with 
city  people,  thirty-six  miles  from  New  York.  To  this  point  the  rail- 
road has  four  tracks;  and  no  less  than  thirty  passenger  trains  run 
back  and  forth  daily,  while  Plainfield  is  served  by  forty-six  trains 
each  way. 

The  Lehigh  Valley  Railroad  serves  a  suburban  region  in  Northern 
New  Jersey  of  great  beauty  and  historic  interest,  where  lovely  vil- 
lages are  building  and  coming  more  and  more  into  notice  as  resi- 
dences and  summer  resorts.  This  road  passes  between  Newark  and 
Elizabeth,  where  a  new  park  is  in  preparation  on  elevated  ground. 
Saybrook  is  a  village  close  by  it.  Roselle  is  in  a  lovel}^  and  especially 
healthy  region,  having  unusual  public  advantages  in  the  way  of 
electric  lights,  gas,  artesian  water,  schools,  etc.  South  Cranford, 
Picton,  Ashbrook,  and  Oak  Tree  are  other  elevated  localities  beyond, 
upon  picturesque  sites  amxong  the  hills.  Plainfield  is  touched  at 
South  Plainfield,  and  then  comes  New  Market,  close  to  the  Orange 
Mountains,  and  surrounded  by  a  very  beautiful  and  healthful  region, 
beyond  which  many  small  hill  stations  are  attracting  a  constant  in- 
crease of  suburban  residents  and  visitors.  Flemin^ton,  Clinton, 
and  other  further  stations  are  older  towns  in  the  midst  of  a  lovely 
rural  region  noted  for  its  peach  orchards.  This  fine  railroad  then 
continues  westward  as  a  double-tracked  line  across  the  Delaware 
River  and  Alleghany  Mountains  to  the  coal  regions  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  on  through  Western  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  etc. 

The  New  York,  Lake  Erie  &  Western  Railway  serves  another 
populous  community  of  suburban  cities  and  villages,  which  vie  with 
The  Oranges  in  importance  as  well  as  in  popularity.  On  the  main 
line,  which  runs  nearly  north  from  Jersey  City,  are  the  Rutherfordu 
and  Passaic — the  latter  a  factory  town  of  27,000  people.  On  the 
same  river,  a  few  miles  higher  up,  and  17  miles  from  New  York,  is 

Paterson,  a  city  of  over  105,000  inhabitants.  Its  extensive  iron  and 
silk  works  and  the  repair  shops  of  the  Erie  Railway  give  it  a  thriving 
appearance.  The  Passaic  Falls,  on  Passaic  River,  are  a  feature  of  this 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS, 


185 


place.  The  river  here  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  50  feet  and  a  total 
descent  of  72  feet,  affording  an  immense  water-power,  which  has 
been  improved  by  a  dam  and  canals.  The  falls  and  bordering  park 
are  accessible  by  a  line  of  trolley  cars  from  the  railroad  station. 

Northward  of  Newark,  and  almost  continuous  with  it,  lies  the 
beautiful  Montclair  district,  occupying  high  ground,  whose  loftiest 
points  c  /erlook  the  whole  Hackensack  valley  and  harbor  region. 
Here  dwell  a  great  number  ot  old  and  wealthy  families  in  estates 
which  time  and  money  together  have  greatly  beautified;  and  large 
communities  of  more  humble  suburban  folk  have  grown  up  about 
them.  Still  farther  out  are  the  various  charming  villages  known  as 
the  Pomptons,  and  beyond  that  Greenwood  Lake,  where  the  resident 
population  is  largely  increased  by  summer  residents  and  visitors. 

Along  the  western  base  of  the  Bergen  Hills,  the  West  Shore  R.  R 
from  Weehawken,  and  several  other  railways  make  their  way  north- 
ward, passing  through  many  pretty  villages  where  New  Yorkers  live, 
and  penetrating,  in  the  rear  of  the  Palisades,  a  district  of  extreme 
natural  beauty  and  full  of  historical  relics  and  associations.  No  per- 
son should  leave  out  of  his  scheme  of  exploration  of  the  neighborhood 
of  New  York  such  places  as  Englewood,  Hackensack^  Cherry 
Hill,  Tappan,  and  others,  where  happened  some  of  the  most  exciting 
incidents  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  which  are  still  environed  in 
a  rural  beauty  astonishing  when  one  remembers  how  near  they  are  to 
the  city.  A  journey  up  the  West  Shore  Railroad,  stopping  at  Tappan, 
where  so  much  historical  interest  is  concentrated  in  a  district  of  great 
beauty,  and  then  going  on  to  West  Point,  to  return  by  steamboat,  is 
an  excursion  particularly  recommended  to  strangers. 

It  should  be  added,  that  throughout  all  of  the  region  east  of  the 
rough  hill-country,  the  smoothest  of  macadamized  roads  invite  the 
cyclist.  Among  the  best  of  these  is  that  which  goes  north  from 
Hoboken  through  Englewood,  Cresskill,  Tappan,  and  on  to  Nyack. 
Other  fine  roads  are  the  old  turnpikes  from  Newark  up  the  Passaic, 
out  through  the  Montclairs,  westward  through  The  Oranges  and  over 
to  Morristown,  and  southward  to  Elizabeth,  Rah  way,  Plainfield,  and 
farther. 

Trolley  Cars  now  reach  all  parts  of  suburban  New  Jersey,  reach- 
ing from  the  ferries  of  Jersey  City,  Hoboken,  or  Weehawken,  north 
to  Englewood,  Leonia,  and  Hackensack,  west  to  Passaic,  Paterson, 
and  suburbs  beyond;  to  the  heights  beyond  Montclair;  to  Eagle  Rock 


186 


SEASIDE  AND  SUBURBAN  RESORTS.  187 


and  all  parts  of  the  Oranges;  to  Irvington  and  the  southwestern 
suburbs  of  Newark;  to  Elizabeth  and  the  ferry  to  Staten  Island. 
These  afiford  the  means  of  many  cheap  and  interesting  round-trips, 
as  well  as  a  convenient  means,  in  connection  with  the  steam  lines,  of 
reaching  any  point  in  that  populous  and  beautiful  district. 


Park  Avenue  Hotel 

Park  (4th)  Ave.,  32d  cS  33d  Sts.,  New  York 
ABSOLUTELY  FIREPROOF 

EUROPEAN 
PLAN 

51.50  to  $5.00  per 
day  and  upwards 

Accessible  to  all  railroads,  fer- 
ries, theaters,  and  department 
stores. 

Two  minutes  from  Grand  Cen- 
tral Station,  and  ten  minutes 
from  Pennsylvania  Ferry, 
Twenty-third  Street.  Thirty- 
third  Street  and  Fourth  Avenue 
Subway  Terminal  directly  in 
front  of  the  door. 

REED  &  BARNETT,  Proprietors 


RAND.  McNALLY  6  CO.'S 

Pictorial  Guide 

to  Washington 

25  Cents 

INDEX. 


PAGE 

A  BINGDON  SQUARE   44 

^   Academy  of  Medicine   15H 

Albany  Day  Line   9 

Albany,  People's  Line  (Night)   9 

Aldine  Club   152 

Allan-State  Line   3 

American  Fine  Art  Society   149 

American    Geographical  Socictv, 

The   157 

American  Institute,  The   157 

American  Line   3 

American  Surety  Company  Bldg. .  .  82 

American  Volunteers,  The   131 

Amusements  3<'j-4i 

Anchor  Line   0 

Antiquities  (see  Metropolitan  Mu- 
seum of  Art). 

Apprentices'  Library,  The.   148 

Aquarium,  The   106 

Architecture  (see  Metropolitan  Mu- 
seum of  Art). 

Arion  Club  41,152 

Army  and  Navy  Club   152 

Art  Galleries   14^ 

Art  Students*  League   150 

Arts,  The  (see  Metropolitan  Mu- 
seum of  Art). 

Asbury  Park   176 

Ashbrook   183 

Assay  Office,  The.   76 

Associations  for  Helping  the  Poor.  .  134 

Astoria  Ferry   26 

Astor  Library,  The   142 

Atlantic  Avenue  Ferry   26 

Atlantic  Highlands..   175 

Atlantic  Transport  Line   6 

Atlas  Steamship  Company   6 

Authors'  Club   152 

BAGGAGE  EXPRESS  17,18 
Baggage,  Outgoing   18 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  (Royal  Blue  Line)  10 

Banks,  Financial  Institutions   67 

Baptist  Churches   124 

Barclay  Street  Ferry   26 

Barge  Office,  The   105 

Barnard  Annex,  The  (for  Women)  .  140 

Battery,  The   104 

Battery  Park  20,  21 

Battery  Park  and  the  Upper  Bay.  .  95 

Baxter  Street   112 

Bay,  A  Trip  Down  the   103 

Bayonne   181 

Bay  Ridge  &  Coney  Island  Ferry.  .  26 
"Bay,"  The  (see  Baxter  Street) 

Bedloe's  Island  Ferry   26 

Bellevue  Hospital   131,  132 

Bergen  Heights   178 

Bible  House   130 

Blackwell's  Island   133 

13 


PAGE 

Blackwell's  Island  Ferry   2C 

Botanical  Garden   62 

Bound  Brook   184 

Bowery,  The   116 

Bowling  Green   66 

Branch  Post  Offices   32 

Bridgeport  (Housatonic  Railroad).  9 

Bridges   31 

Brighton   173 

Broad  Street  (Looking  North  from 

Beaver  Street)   11 

Broadway  to  City  Hall,  A  Walk 

Up  80-90 

Broadway   (Looking   North  from 

the  Post  Office)  4,  5 

Broadway  Squad,  The   iir 

Bronx  Park   61 

Brooklyn   159 

Features  of,  to  be  seen   160 

Brooklyn  Bridge,  The  30,  31 

Brooklyn  Bridge  Cars   31 

Brooklyn  Ferries,  Various  (see  map)  26 

Brooklyn  Heights   i6i 

Brooklyn  Institute   165 

Brooklyn  Institute  Museum   165 

Brooklyn  Navy  Yard   167 

Brooklyn    Street    and  Elevated 

Cars  23-25 

Brooklyn  Theaters   x6o 

(^ABS  14,  17 

^    Calumet  Club   15  a 

Carriage  Fares   17 

Castle  Garden   104 

Catherine  Ferry   26 

Cathedral  of  St.  John  The  Divine. .  129 

Catholic  Club   152 

Catskill  (Catskill  Mountain  R.  R.) .  q 

Caution  to  Travelers   18 

Central  Avenue   63 

Central  Broadway   96 

Central  Park   44 

Means  of  Access  to   44 

Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey..  10,  182 

Century  Club   152 

Chamber  of  Commerce  7» 

Charity  Organization  Sociefv   133 

Cherry  Hill  ^   184 

Chinatown  and  the  Chinese   114 

Chinese  Restaurants   115 

Chinese  Theater   115 

Christian  Alliance,  etc..  The   131 

Christopher  Street  Ferry   26 

Church  Club   152 

Church  of  the  Strangers,  The   126 

Churches  and  Religious  Work   119 

Churches  in  Brooklyn   162 

Churches,  Protestant   119 

Circulating  Library  and  Branches  .  145 
City  Club   isa 


189 


190  HANDY  GUIDE  TO  JVEIV  YORK  CITY. 


PAGE 

City  Government  Offices   87 

City  Hall   81 

City  Hall,  In  and  around   84 

City  Hall  Square  H3.  84 

"City  of  Churches,  The"   162 

City  Prison,  New   no 

Claremont   55 

Clearing  Hovise,  The  New  Bank.  .  .8,  78 

'Cleopatra's  Needle"   54 

Clubs  and  Societies   152 

Clyde  Steamship  Company   6 

Coaches   17 

Coastwise  Steamship  Lines   6,  9 

College  of  the  City  of  New  York.  .  .  136 

College  Point  Ferry   26 

Colonial  Club   i53 

Columbia  University   138 

Columbia  University  Library   139 

Columbus  Monument  and  Plaza.  .  .  42 

Communipaw  Ferry   26 

Compagnie    Generale  Transatlan- 

tique. .  . .  /   6 

Concert  Halls   39 

Coney  Island   i73 

Congregational  Churches   124 

Connecticut  Farms   182 

Consolidated  Petroleum  and  Stock 

Exchange  „   78 

Cooper  Union. .   141 

Cooper  Union  Library   147 

Cortlandt  Street  Ferry   26 

County  of  New  York   89 

Cranford   182 

Criminal  Courts,  The   89 

Cross-Town  Lines   25 

Crotona  Park   62 

Cunard  Line   6 

Custom  House,  The  73.  75 

PvELAWARE,  LACKAWANNA 

^    &  Western  Railroad   10 

Democratic  Club   153 

Desbi-osses  Street  Ferry   26 

Detective  Bureau,  The   in 

Deutscher  Verein  Club   153 

Door  of  Hope  The..   131 

Down-town  Association   153 

Drive,  The  (Central  Park)   51 

Drives   63 

Dry-docks   170 

Dutch  Reformed  Churches   119 

CASTCHESTER.^   177 

East  River  Bridge,  New  ....  29,  31 

Eagle  Rock   186 

Educational  Institutions   136 

Eighteenth  Street  Station   23 

Elevated  Railways   19 

Elizabeth   181 

Ellis  Island   105 

Elysian  Fields  Ferry   26 

Emergency  Hospital   132 

Engineers  Club   153 

Englewood   184 

Episcopalian  Churches   119 


PAGB 

Equitable  Life  Building,  The   82 

Erie  Railroad   10 

Esplanades,  The  (Central  Park) ...  46 

Exchange,  Various   68 

Exhibitions   38 

Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary   94 

pALL  RIVER  LINE   9 

*      Fanwood   182 

Fencers  Club   153 

Ferries,  Various  26,  28 

Fifth  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church.  123 

Fifth  Avenue  Stages   26 

Financial  Institutions   67 

Finderne   183 

Fire  Department,  The   117 

Five  Points   112 

Five  Points  House  of  Industry.  .  .  .  133 

Five  Points  Mission   133 

Flemington   183 

Florence  Mission   109 

Fort  Lee   180 

Fort  Lee  Ferry   28 

Fort  Wadsworth   103 

Fourteenth  Street  Ferry   28 

Franklin  Street  Ferry   28 

Free  Circulating  Library,  The   145 

Free  Masonry   156 

Fulton  Ferry   28 

GARWOOD....   182 

Getting  About  the  City   19 

Glenside  Park   182 

Governor's  Island  Ferry   28 

Grace  Church   121 

Gramercy  Park   94 

Grand  Central  Station   13 

Approaches  to   14 

Grand  Street  Ferry.   28 

Grant  Statue,  The   167 

Grant's  Tomb   56 

Greater  New  York   159 

Boroughs  of   159 

Extent  of   159 

"Greek  Letter"  Clubs   153 

Greenpoint  Ferry   28 

Greenwood  Cemetery   165 

Greenwood  Lake   184 

HACKENSACK   184 

Hacks  14,  16 

Hall  of  Fame   141 

Hall  of  Records  15.  84 

Hamburg- American  Line   6 

Hamilton  Ferry   28 

Harbor,  A  Tour  of  the    103 

Harbor  Police,  The   in 

Harlem  Club   I53 

Harmonic  Club   I53 

Hartford  Line   9 

Harvard  Club   I53 

Health  Department   m 

Hebrews  in  New  York   126 

Hoboken   180 

Hobolsen  Ferries   28 


INDEX. 


191 


pagp: 

Holland- American  l^ine   6 

Hospitals  and  Charities   131 

H(itels,  List  of  194,  \  >)$ 

Humane  Societies   134 

Hunter's  Point  Ferry   28 

I NTRODUCTION  to  New  York . .  3 
^    Inland  Towns  of  New  Jersey.  .  181 

TACKSON  SQUARE   44 

J    Jeannette  Square   43 

Jersey  City   179 

Jersey  City  Ferries  (see  map)   28 

"Judea,"  In   117 

KING'S  DAUGHTERS  and  Sons 

International  Order  of   131 

Kin^?ston  ( Ulster  &  Delaware  R.  R.)  9 

Knickerlx)cker  Club   153 

Knickerbocker  Theater   36 

I  AMBS  CLUB   153 

L«  Lawyers  Club   153 

Lectures   41 

Lehigh  Valley  Railroad  10,  184 

Lenox  Library,  The   144 

Lenox  Lyceum   41 

Letter  Rates   34 

Liberty  Statue,  The   106 

Library  of  Columbia  University.. .  .  137 

Libraries  and  Reading  Rooms   142 

Liederkranz,  The   30 

Lines  North  of  Harlem  River   25 

"Little  Church  'nnmd  the  Corner," 

The   122 

Long  Branch  ^   175 

Long  Island  City  Ferries   2S 

Long  Island  Coast  Resorts   173 

Long  Island  Railroa-d   12 

Lotos  Club   153 

Lower  Park  (Central  Park)   44 

Lutheran  Churches   125 

MADISON  SQUARE   27 
Madison  Square  Garden.,  .  .38,  40 
Madison   Square  Presbyterian 

Church   123 

Maine  Steamship  Com  pan  v   6 

Mall.  The  (Central  Park). '   46 

Mallory  Line   6 

Manhattan  Beach   174 

Manhattan  Club   153 

Mariner*s  Church,  The   126 

"Mary  Powell"   9 

Masonic  Temple,  The   156 

Medicine  (see  under  Bellevue,  Co- 
lumbia University,  and  Univer 
Sity  of  City  of  New  York) . 

Menagerie,  The   45 

Mercantile  Library,  The   148 

Merchants  Club   153 

Messenger  Service   34 

Methodist  Episcopal  Churches..  ...  124 

Metropolitan  Club   153 

Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  52-54 

Metropolitan  Opera  House   38 


PAGE 

Midland  Beach   172 

Miscellaneous  Institutions   141 

Montclair. .   184 

Moravian  Society,  The   125 

Morgan  Line  (Southern  Pac.  R.  R.).  6 

Morgue,  The   132 

Morningside  Heights   60 

Morningside  Park   60 

Morris  &  Essex  Railroad   10 

Mount  Morris  Square   61 

Mount  Vernon   177 

Mulberry  Bend,  The   113 

Mulberry  Bend  Park   113 

Munson  Steamship  Line   6 

Museum  of  Natural  History,  The.  .  48 

Museums  and  Galleries   41 

Music,  Lectures,  and  Exhibitions.  .  38 

Musical  Societies   39 

NATIONAL     ACADEMY  OF 

Design   149 

National  Sculpture  Society   150 

Navy  Yard   167 

Nethcrwood   182 

Newark   181 

Newark,  Northward  of   184 

New  Brunswick   18  r 

Newburgh  (two  lines)   9 

New  Haven  (N.Y.,N.H.  &  H.  R.R.)  9 

New  Jersey  Coast  Resorts   175 

New  Jersey  Northern  Railroad.  ...  10 

New  Jersey  Shore   179 

New  Jersey  Trolley  Lines   184 

New  Market   183 

New  Rochelle   177 

Newspaper  Offices   84 

New  York  Athletic  Club   154 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 

Railroad   12 

New  York  Club   154 

New  York  &  Cuba  Mail  Steamship 

Company   6 

New  York  &  Greenwood  Lake  Rail- 
road  10 

New  York  &  Harlem  Railroad   13 

New  York  Historical  Society   157 

New  York  Hospital,  The   132 

New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 

Railroad   13 

New  York,  Lake  Erie  &  Western 

Railroad   184 

New  York  Public  Library   142 

New  York  &   Porto  Rico  Steam- 
ship Co  ,   6 

New  York  &  Putnam  Railroad ....  12 
New  York.  Susquehanna  &  West- 
ern Railroad   10 

New  York  Stock  Exchange   78 

New  York  Yacht  Club   154 

Nocturnal  Ramble,  A  Route  for  a.  100 

Normal  College,  The   138 

North  Brother  Island   133 

North  (or  Bowery  Beach)  Ferry.  .  .  28 

North  German  Llovd  Line   6 

North  River  Water  Front,  The. ...  loo 


192  HA  NDY  G  UIDE  TO 


NEW  YORK  CITY, 


PACE 

OBELISK.  THE   54 

Ocean  Steamers   loi 

Ocean  Grove   i7^ 

Odd  Fellows   i57 

Ohio  Society   i54 

Old  Dominion  Steamship  Co   o 

Oranges,  The   iSi 

PAINTINGS  (see  Metropolitan 

*      Museum  of  Art). 

Panama  Railroad  Steamship  Line.  9 

Parks,  Drives,  and  Museums   43 

Parks  and  Drives  North  of  the  Har- 
lem  61 

Park  Plaza,  The  (Brooklyn)   164 

Park  Row   (Looking  North  from 

Broadway  and  Vesey  Street) ....  33 

Passaic   183 

Paterson   184 

Pavonia  Ferry   28 

Pelham.   17  7 

Pelham  Bay  Park   62 

Pennsylvania  Railroad   10 

Phoenix  Line   6 

Philadelphia  &  Reading  Railroad.  .  10 

Picton   183 

Plainfield   182 

Players  Club   i54 

Police  Force,  The  ,   11 1 

Police  Headquarters   iii 

Pomptons,  The   184 

Porto  Rico  Steamship  Company.  .  9 

Post  Office,  The.  .   32 

List  of  Sub-stations  of  the.  .  .  .32,  34 

Presbyterian  Churches   122 

Press  Club   154 

Prince  Line   6 

Printing  House  Square   84 

Private  Philanthropies   133 

Produce  Exchange,  The   67 

Progress  Club   154 

Prohibition  Park   171 

Prospect  Park  (Brooklyn)   162 

Public  Schools   136 

Public  Library  System   142 

QUAKERS'  Meeting  Houses   125 

Quebec  Steamship  Company.  9 

DACQUET  AND  Tennis  Club.  . .  153 

Rahway.   181 

Railroads,  various: 
^  Connecting  with  New  York.. .  ,  10,  17 

Elevated  in  New  York,   19 

Railway  Stations  10,  14 

Ramble,  The  (Central  Park)   47 

Ramble  at  Night,  A   109 

Rar  dall's  Island   133 

Rapid  Transit  Railroad   32 

Recreation  Piers   44 

Red  D  Lines   9 

Red  Star  Line   6 

Reform  Club   154 

Religious  Organizations   130 

Repiiblican  Club   154 

Residences,  Clubs,  Hotels.etc.   ...  99 


PAGE 

Riding  Club   154 

Rivers  and  Harbor,  The   100 

Riverside  Park   57 

River  Steamboats   9 

Rockaway   174 

Roman  Catholic  Churches  126-1  29 

Roman  Catholic  Institutions   142 

Roosevelt  Ferry   28 

Roosevelt  Hospital   132 

Roselle   183 

Royal  Dutch  West  Indies  Mail  Line  9 

Rutherfords,  The   183 

Russian  Quarter,  The   116 

CAILOR'S  SNUG  HARBOR..  170 

^     St.  Andrew,  Brotherhood  of .  ,  131 

St.  George's  Church   122 

St.  John  The  Divine,  Cathedral  of.  129 

St.  Luke's  Hospital   132 

St.  Nicholas  Club   154 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral   128 

St.  Paul's    Chapel    and  Church- 
yard 12,  120 

St.  Vincent's  Hospital   132 

Salmagundi  Club   154 

Salvation  Army,  The   131 

Savannah  Line   9 

Scandinavian-American  Line   6 

Scientific  Alliance,  The   158 

Scientific  and  Learned  Societies.. .  .  157 

Seaside  and  Suburban  Resorts   173 

Seward  Park   44 

Secret  Orders   156 

Social  Clubs   152 

Society  of  American  Artists   150 

Society  for  Prevention  of  Crime..  135 
Society    for    the    Prevention  of 

Cruelty  to  Animals   134 

Society  for  Prevention  of  Cruelty 

to  Children  ^   134 

Society  for  Suppression  of  Vice. ...  135 

Society  Library,  The   148 

Somerville   183 

Sound  Steamboats   9 

South  Brooklyn  Ferry   2H 

South  Cranford   183 

Southern    Pacific    Co.  (Formerly 

Cromwell  Line)   9 

South  Staten  Island   171 

Speedway,  The. .   •  • 

State  Charities  Aid  Association.  .  .  133 

Staten  Island   170 

Staten  Island  Ferry  28,  172 

Staten  Island  Trolley  Lines   172 

Statue  of  Nathan  Hale   74,  84 

Steamboats,  River  and  Sound   9 

Steamship  Landings.  3,  9 

Steamship  Lines,  Various  6,  9 

Stock  Exchange  ,   78 

Stonington  (Railroad  to  Boston)...  9 

Stuyvesant  Square   94 

Sub-treasury.  The   76 

Surface  Car  Routes   24 

Swedenborgians  in  New  York   126 

Synagogues   126 


INDEX, 


193 


PAGE 

"TAPPAN   184 

I     Taxicabs    14 

Teachers'    College    and  Horace 

Mann  School    140 

Telegraphs   34 

Telephones   34 

Temple  Emanu-El   126 

Terrace  and  Lake  (Central  Park) .  .  47 

Theaters,  List  of   3  7 

Theaters  in  Brooklyn   160 

Times  Building   ,2 

Tombs,  The   Qo 

Tour  of  the  City,  A   64 

Transatlantic  Steamship  Lines.  ...  3,6 

Trinity  Church  118.  no 

Trinity  Churchyard   120 

Trip  Down  the  Bay,  A    103 

Troy,  Citizens'  Line   9 

Tunnels      24 

Twelfth  Night  Club   iS4 

Twenty- third  Street.  Ferry   28 

I  INION  CLUB   154 

^     Union  League  Club  154,  1^5 

Union  Square   96 

Union  Theological  Seminary   141 

Unita,rian  Churches   125 

Universalist  Chui  ches   126 

University  Club   15.'') 

University  of  the  City  of  New  York.  140 

WAN  CORTLANDT  PARK   61 

'      Vanderbilt  Residence  98 


PAGE 

WALL  STREET   70 

Wall  Street  Ferry   28 

Ward's  Island   133 

Washington  Arch   64 

Washington  Stjuare   64 

Water  Color  Society   150 

Weehawken   180 

Weehawken  Ferries   28 

West  Brighton   173 

Westchester   i77 

Westchester  County  Resorts   i77 

Wcstfield   182 

West  Shore  and  Ontario  &  West- 
ern Railroads   10 

West  Shore  Railroad   i85 

White  Cross  Society,  The   131 

White  Star  Line   ^ 

Wilson  Line   0 

Woman's  Hospital  of  the  State  of 

New  York   132 

Women's  Press  Club   156 

VALE  CLUB   156 

1     Yonkers   177 

Yonkers  Rapid  Transit  Line   14 

Young    Men's    Christian  Associa- 
tion   I. so 

Young  Women's  Christian  Associa- 
tion  131 

7OOLOGICAL  GARDEN,  THE.  62 


"The  Lorraine"  Hotel 


Cranby  and  Tazewell  Sts., 
Norfolk,  Va. 

Complete  in  all  its  ap- 
pointments. Rooms  $1.50 
per  day  and  up.  Hot  and 
cold  water  in  every  room. 

Broad  expanse  of  South- 
ern exposure.  In  close 
proximity  to  all  Theatres, 
Railroads,  and  Steamboat 
landings. 

European  Plan 

L.  BERRY  DODSON, 

Masiager 


GREEN'S  HOTEL 

Corner  Eighth  and  Chestnut  Sts. 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 


FOR  LADIES  AND  GENTLEMEN  EUROPEAN  PLAN 


315  Rooms  at  $1.00  and  $1.50  per  Day  and  Upwards 
60  New  Rooms  with  Bath  Attached  at  $2.00  per  Day 

FINEST  RESTAURANT  IN  ALL  MODERN  CONVENIENCES 

PHILADELPHIA  TELEPHONE  IN  ROOMS 

Table  d'Hote  Dinner  50  cents,  from  1 2  m.  to  8  p.  m. 

MUSIC  BY  PROFESSOR  MEYER'S  ORCHESTRA 


Eighth  and  Chestnut  Street  Trolley  Cars  pass  the  Hotel  at  the 
Rate  of  Three  per  Minute  to  all  Parts  of  the  City 


This  hotel  is  centrally  located,  and  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  being  but 
one  square  from  the  Postoffice,  Strawbridge  &  Clothier's,  Lit  Brothers,  and  op- 
posite Gimbel  Brothers,  and  two  squares  from  the  historic 
Independence  Hall.    Easy  of  access  to  all  Theaters,  Railway 
Stations,  Public  Buildings,  and  Points  of  Interest. 

MAHLON  W.  NEWTON, 
Tix,  Proprietor 

Celebrated  Angora  Cat 
of  Green's  Hotel 


LIST  OF  REPUTABLE  HOTELS 


IN  NEW  YORK 


Albany,  Broadway  and  41st  St. — Eur.  $1.50. 

Albe7narle,  Broadway  and  24th  St. — Eur.,  $2. 

Albert-St.  Stephefi,  University  PL  and  E.  nth  St.— Eur.,  $1. 

Algonquin,  59  West  44th  St.  (Special.) 

Ashland,  Fourth  Av.  and  23d  St. — Am.,  $3;  Eur.,  $1. 

As  tor  Hotel,  Broadway  and  44th  St.  (Special). 

As  tor,  Broadway,  Barclay,  and  Vesey  Sts. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Bartholdi,  Broadway  and  23d  St. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Belleclaire,  Broadway  and  77th  St.— (Not  given.) 

Belmont,  Park  Av.  and  42d  St.  (Special.) 

Belvedere,  Fourth  Av.  and  i8th  St.— Am.,  $3;  Eur.,  $1.  (German.) 
Beresford,  Central  Park  West  and  8ist  St. — Eur.,  %i. 
Brevoort,  Fifth  Av.  and  Clinton  PI.  (8th  St.)— Eur.,  $2. 
Breslin,  Broadway  and  29th  St. — Eur.,  $2. 

Broadway  Central,  671  Broadway — Am.,  $2.50;  Eur.,  $1.    See  adv. 

Buckingham,  Fifth  Av.  and  50th  St. — Eur.,  $1.50  to  $2.50. 

Cadillac,  Broadway  and  43d  St. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Carnegie  Hill  Hotel,  Madison  Av.  and  92d  St. — Eur.,  $2. 

Continental,  Broadway  and  20th  St. — Eur.,  $1. 

Cosmopolitan,  Chambers  St.  and  W.  Broadway — Eur.,  %\. 

Devofishire,  30  E.  42d  St. — Eur.,  $1. 

Ear  ling  ton,  55  W.  27th  St. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Empire,  Broadway  and  63d  St. — Am.,  $3.50;  Eur.,  $1.50. 

Endicott,  loi  W.  8ist  St. — Am.,  $3.50;  Eur.,  $2. 

Everett,  Fourth  Av.  and  17th  St.  (Union  Square) — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Gilsey,  Broadway  and  29th  St. — Eur.,  ^2. 

Grand,  Broadway  and  31st  St. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Grand  Union,  Fourth  Av.  and  42d  St. — Eur.,  $1. 

Grenoble,  Seventh  Av.  and  56th  St. — (Not  given.) 

Griff ou,  19  W.  9th  St.  (French)— Am. ,  $3;  Eur.,  $1. 

Herald  Square,  116  W.  34th  St. — Eur.,  %\. 

Hamilton,  Eighth  Av.  and  125th  St.  (Harlem) — Em\,  $1. 

Hoffmann,  iiii  Broadway — Eur.,  $2. 

Holland,  Fifth  Av.  and  30th  St.— Eur.,  $2. 

Hungaria,  4  East  Union  Square — Eur.,  $1. 

Imperial,  Broadway  and  32d  St. — Eur.,  $2. 

Jefferson,  102  E.  15th  St. — Am.,  $2.50;  Eur.,  $1. 

Judson,  53  Washington  Square — Eur.,  $1. 

Kensington,  Fifth  Av.  and  15th  St. — Eur.,  |i. 

Knickerbocker,  Broadway  and  42d  St.  (Special.) 

Lincoln,  Broadway  and  52d  St. — Eur.,  %\. 

195 


196 


LIST  OF  HOTELS. 


Madison  Avenue,  Madison  Av.  and  58th  St.— Am.,  $3;  Eur.,  $1. 

Majestic,  Central  Park  West  and  72d  St.— Am.,  $4;  Em'.,  $2. 

Manhattan,  Madison  Av.  and  42d  St. — Eur. ,  »f  2. 

Marie  Antoinette,  Boulevard  and  66th  St. — Am.,  $3.50. 

Marlborough,  Broadway  and  37th  St.— Am.,  $3.50;  Eur.  $1.50. 
See  advertisement. 

Martinique,  Broadway  and  33d  St. — Eur.,  $2.    See  advertisement. 

Martha  Washmgton,  29  E.  29th  St.    (Women  only.) 

Metropole,  Broadway  and  42 d  St. — Eur.  $1- 

Miller  s,  36  W.  26tli  St.— Am.,  $2.50. 

Mount  Morris,  2396  Third  Av.  (Harlem) — Eur.,  $1. 

Murray  Hill,  Park  Av.  and  41st  St.— Am.,  $3.50;  Eur.,  $1.50. 

Netherland,  Fifth  Av.  and  59th  St.— (Unannounced,  but  high.) 

New  Amsterdam,  Fourth  Av.  and  21st  St. — f  i. 

Normandie ,  Broadway  and  39th  St. — Eur.,  $2. 

Park  Avenue,  Fourth  Av.  and  32d  St. — Am.,  $3.50;  Eur.,  $1. 
See  advertisement. 

Plaza,  Fifth  Av.  and  59th  St.  (Special.) 

Regent,  Sherman  Sq.  and  70th  St. — Eur.,  $1.50.' 

Roland,  59th  St.,  between  Madison  and  Park  Avs. — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Rossmore,  1459  Broadway — Eur. 

St.  Andrew,  Broadway  and  72d  St.— Eur.,  $1.50. 

St.  Denis,  Broadway  and  nth  St  — Eur.,  $1. 

St.  George,  49  E.  12th  St.— Am,,  $2.50;  Eur.,  $1. 

St.  Marc,  434  Fifth  Av.— Am.,  $4;  Eur.,  $1.50. 

St.  Nicholas,  4  Washington  PI.— Am.,  ^2.50;  Eur.,  $1. 

St.  Regis,  Fifth  Av.  and  55th  St.— (Special.) 

St.  Stephen,  52  E.  nth  St.— Eur.,  $1  —(Joined  to  the  Albert.) 

San  Remo,  Central  Park  West  and  75th  St. — %\. 

Savoy,  Fifth  Av.  and  59th  St.— Am.,  $4.50;  Eur.,  $2. 

Sinclair,  Broadway  and  Eighth  St. — $1. 

Smith  &^  McNelVs,  199  Washington  St. — 50  cents. 

Trainor's,  1289  Broadway— Eur.,  $1.    (Gentlemen  only.) 

Unio7t  Square,  16  E.  Union  Sq.~Eur.,  $1. 

Vanderbilt,  Lexington  Av.  and  42d  St. — Eur.,  $1. 

Waldorf-Astoria,  Fifth  Av.  and  34th  St.— Eur.,  $3. 

Wellington,  7th  Av.  and  55th  St.— Eur., $2. 50.    See  advertisement. 

Westminster,  Irving  PI.  and  i6th  St.— Eur.,  $1.    See  advertise- 
ment. 

Winthrop,  2088  Seventh  Av.  (Harlem) — Eur.,  $1.50. 

Woodstock,  43d  St.,  near  Broadway.  (Special.) 

Extras.— In  all  these  hotels,  of  whatever  plan,  no '*  extras  "  will 
be  found  unexpectedly  swelling  the  bill,  as  so  vexatiously  happens 
in  Europe. 


a  HOTELS,  £j 


Call  or  write  Rand,  WcNally  &  Co.,  \M  5tfi  Av., 
New  York  City,  for  booklets  and  printed  matter 
giving  rates  on  any  of  the  following  hotels: 


ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J. 

Chalfonte. 
Galen  Hall. 
Haddon  Hall. 
Jackson. 
Rudolf. 

BALTIMORE,  M.  D. 

Belvedere. 
Kernan. 

BOSTON,  MASS. 

American. 
Boston  Tavern. 
United  States. 
Vendome. 

NEW  YORK  CITY,  N,  Y. 

Albert. 

Broadway  Central. 
Cosmopolitan. 
Herald  Square. 
Marlborough. 
Martinique. 
Park  Avenue. 
St.  Denis. 
Westminster. 


NORFOLK,  VA, 

The  Lorraine. 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA, 

Bingham. 
Green's. 
St.  James. 
Windsor. 

RICHMOND,  VA. 

Murphy's. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

Lincoln. 

Montrose. 

National. 

Normandie. 

Rhode  Island. 

Riggs. 

Vendome- 


HANDY  DIRBLCTOKY 

QUEBEC   CITY,  CANADA 


HEADQUARTERS   FOR   FISHERMEN'S  SUPPLIES 

H.  BEAUTErY, 

Importer  of  Wines,  Liquors,  Groceries 

and  Havana  Cigars 
22  FABRIQUE  STREET  QUEBEC 

FOR  SOUVENIR  GOODS 

WHEN  IN  QUEBEC  ^        n>  n>  f  TVT  ^9  BUADE  STREET 
GO  TO  £3  JO  1  lyl     OPP.  BASILICA 


Enameled  Spoons,  Paper  Knives,  Button  Hooks.  Also  Dobbins' 
Special  and  Champlain  Designs  in  these  Articles 

L.  V.  DION,  PROPRIETOR  P.  K.  HUNT,  MANAGER 

The  New  St.  Louis  Hotel 

Quebec's  Famous  Old  Hostelry 

^''"^l!l!5.rr^l°/""''''°^  Rates  $2.50  to  $4.00  per  day 

Write  for  illustrated  guide  to  Sluebec 

E.  A.  ANCTIL  6  CO. 

Merchant  Tailors 
*Phone  1689    53  Buade  Street,  Quebec.  Opposite  the  Basilica 

18  St.  Anne  Street,  Quebec. 

First  Class  Board,  Good  Rooms,  Excellent 
Cuisine,  Also  Good  Table  Board. 

TERMS  STRICTLY  MODERATE 

Norton^s  City  Express  "*Si?ner''~ 
Transfer  Parcels  and  aHci  BaQgago  Transfor 

Send  Post-card  before  arriving  in  Quebec  for  the  Ter-centenary 
celebration  this  summer. 


ST.  GEORGE'S  HOUSE 


THE  NATIONAL  HOTEL 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 


Ib  one  of  the  largest  and  most  centrally  located  hotels  in  the  Capital,  beinj?  situated  just 
across  the  street  from  the  Penn.  R.  R.  depot,  on  the  famous  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  midway 
between  the  Capitol  and  the  White  House.  All  the  street  car  lines  pass  its  doors,  giving 
quick  and  easy  access  to  all  parts  of  the  city.  'J  he  house  has  just  been  overhauled  and  mod- 
ernized. It  has  its  own  electric  lighting  and  refrigerating  plant,  new  elevators,  steam  heat, 
telephones  in  every  room;  and  is  up  to  date  in  every  particular.  It  was  built  when  hotels 
were  constructed  for  comfort.  Its  rooms  are  large,  airy,  and  corafortjible.  There  is  no  place 
in  Washington  where  guests  can  get  as  much  for  the  money  as  at  the  National.  Try  it. 

RATES:  American  Plan— Rooms  with  bath,  $3.50  and  $4.00  per  day. 
Rooms  without  bath*  $2.50  and  $3.00  per  day.  European  Plan— Rooms 
without  Bath,  $1 .00  tO  $2  00  per  day.  Rooms  with  Bath,  $2.00  to  $2.50 
per  day.  C.  F.  SCHUTT,  Manager. 


Mason,  Fenwick 
&  Lawrence 

PATENT  AND 
TRADE-MARK 

LAWYERS 

602  F  Street,  N.  W., 
WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

AND 

St.  Paul  Building, 

Established  1861     NEW  YORK 


52-page  book  on  patents  and 
trade-marks,  containing  impor- 
tant law  points  for  inventors  and 
manufacturers,  besides  illustra- 
tions of  mechanical  movements, 
sent  free  on  application.   -:•  •:- 


GENIUS  OF  INVENTION. 


GALEN  HALL 


ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J. 


HOTEL  AND  SANATORIUM 

A  New  Stone,  Brick,  and  Steel  Building 

With  all  the  Modern  Conveniences  and 
Beautifully  Furnished 

Our  Treatment  Department  has  the  most 
Modern  Hydriatic  and  Electrical  Apparatus 
Trained  Attendants  Only  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen 

SEA  WATER  USED 
For  information,  address 

F.  L.  YOUNa  General  Manager. 


upwards  .  .flij 


OPPOSITE  THE  TBEASURV 
^SJ4C-BL0CK-Fi?01V!  THE-WHlTElHOUSE, 

The  Hotel,  par  excellence  of  the  National  Capital 

Electric  Cars  pass  the  door  to  all  parts  of  the  city. 
The  most  centrally  located  of  any  hotel  in  the  city. 


Thousand 
Island 
House 

ALEXANDRIA  BAT. 
N.  X. 

AMERICA'S  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  RESORT. 
Send  two  2-cent  stamps  for  beautiful  illustrated  guide,  to 
O.  G.  STAPLE.S,  Proprietor  and  Owner. 


Queen  of  Sea  Routes'* 


BETWEEN 

Philadelphia  and  Boston 

Philadelphia  and  Savannah 

Baltimore,  Norfolk,  and  Boston 
Baltimore  and  Savannah 

Baltimore,  Norfolk,  and  Providence 
Baltimore,  Newport  News,  and  Norfolk 


Merchants  &  Miners  Trans.  Co. 

STEAMSHIP  LINES 

Accommodations  and  cuisine  unsurpassed.    Send  for  particulars  and 
illustrated  booklet. 

Most  convenient  way  to  reach  Florida  and  Southern  points. 

H.  F.  ORR,  Com'l  Agent  O.  F.  LUCAS,  Agent 

Room  1404,  395  Broadway  Pier  18,  S.  Delaware  Ave. 

New  York  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

W.  p.  TURNER,  Passenger  Traffic  Manager 

GENERAL  OFFICES,  BALTIMORE,  MI>. 


"FINEST  COASTWISE  TRIPS  IN  THE  WORLD" 


The  PALATINE,  #  NeWburg,  N.  Y. 


HORATIO  N.  BAIN  6  CO.,  Proprietors 


NELSON  HOUSE 

POUGHKEEPSIE,NY.. 


Horatio  N.  Bain. 

Prop.  . 


Hotel  ;^artmtq[ue 

AS  IT   WILL   APPEAR   WHEN   NEW   ADDITION    IS  COMPLETED 

"A  HOTEL  IN  THE  HEART  OF  THINGS" 

Broadway  and  Thirty-third  Street,  New  York 

PAUL  L.  PINKERTON,  Mgr. 

Located  precisely  where  the  visitor  wishes  to  stop,  whether  his  mission  be 
one  of  pleasure  or  business.  The  restaurants  have  secured  the  unqualified 
endorsement  of  a  critical  patronage.  The  highest  standard  of  accommoda- 
tion at  moderate  rates. 

CHAS.  L.  TAYLOR,  Pres. 
Also  proprietors  WALTER  S.  GILSON,  V.-Pres. 

HOTEL  ST.  DENIS,  Broadway  and  Eleventh  St.,  New  York. 


SiclCllervbus 

^^Jieuralglc 


10  CENTS. 

CORESAll 

[HEADACHES. 


Headaches 

feQUICKLY  CUBED  BY 


SO£D£y£RriVff£PE. 


1 


THE, 


WESTMINSTER 


16lh  Street  and  Irving  Place.  NEW  YORK 

Entirely  remodeled.  New  bathrooms  and 
new  plumbing  throughout,  telephone,  steam 
heat,  electric  lights,  open  tires  in  every  room. 
Rooms  $1.00  per  day  and  upward,  with 
Bath  $2.00  per  day  and  upward. 

RESTAURANT  A  LA  CARTE 
MUSIC 

A,  W,  E  AGRR, 


14 


— —  ORGANIZED  1851 

Berkshi re  Life  I nsu ranee  Co. 

PITTSFIELD,  MASS. 

JAMES  W.  HULL.  President      WALTER  F.  HAWKINS.  Vice-President 
J.  M.  LEE.  Actuary      THEO.  L.  ALLEN,  Secretary 
ROBT.  H.  DAVENPORT,  Ass't  Sec'y 


ITS  POLICIES  ARE  PROTECTED  BY  THE  NON- 
FORFEITURE LAWS  OF  THE  COMMON- 
WEALTH OF  MASSACHUSETTS 


NEW  YORK  STATE  AGENCY 

253  Broadway,  Postal  Building 
JOHN  H.  ROBINSON,  GENERAL  AGENT 

Map  of  Berkshire  County,  showing  roads,  schools,  churches, 
and  points  of  interest,  sent  free  on  application 
to  home  office  or  any  agent 


KODAKS-LENSES-CAMERAS 

A  T   BARGAIN    PRICE  S 


Get  our  list.  We  buy  and  exchange 
Our  Developing,  Printing,  and  Bro- 
mide enlarging,  is  done  by  experts 
Highest  grade  work  at  lowest  prices 
No  matter  where  you  are  write  us 
We  are  the  cheapest  house  in  America 


National  Specialty  Company 

49  W.  28th  Street,  J^eW  York  City 


Is  Not  Half  So  Soothing  to 
Baby  as 

Mrs. 

Winslow's 
Soothing 
Syrup 

As  Millions  of  Mothers 

Will  Tell  You. 

It  Soothes  the  Child. 
It  Softens  the  Gums. 
It  Allays  all  Pain. 
It  Cures  Wind  Colic. 
It  is  the  Best  Remedy  for  Diarrhoea. 

It  is  absolutely  harmless  and  for  over  sixty  years  has 
proved  the  best  remedy  for  children  while  teething. 

BE  SURE  YOU  ASK  FOR 

Mrs.Winslow's  Soothing  Syrup 

AND  TAKE  NO  OTHER. 

Guaranteed  under  the  Food  and  Drugs  Act,  June  30,  1906, 
Serial  Number  1098. 


iOTEL  KERNAN 

The  central  feature  of  the  Kernan 
million   dollar  triple  enterprise 

.  E.  BARRETT,      =       -       -  Manager 


EUROPEAN  PLAN      ABSOLUTELY  FIRE-PROOF 

Franklin  and  Howard  Streets,  Baltimore,  Md. 

ROOMS  WITH  BATH  $2.00  UP 

Famous  for  Maryland  Cuisine 
Free  use  of  Showers  and  Pool  in  Turkish  Bath  to  Guests 


CHALFONTil,  Atlantic  city,  n.  j. 

Is  a  new  fireproof  building  of  the  best  type. 
The  Leeds  Company  solicits  your  patronage. 
Write  for  Illustrated  Folder  and  R.ates.  Always  Open. 


HADDON  HALL 

ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J. 
Always  Open  On  the  Board  WalK 

Installing  hot  and  cold  sea 
water  in  all  bath  rooms  and 
equipping  many  rooms  with 
hot  and  cold  running  water 


LEEDS  6  LIPPINCOTT 

Write  for  booklet  and  rates 


In  Touch  With 


THE,   NEWEST  BOOKS 


are  kept  in  immediate  and  constant  touch 
with  the  publishing  world  through  the 

namaker  Book  Store 


It  is  as  complete  as  though  we  dealt 
exclusively  in  books. 

It  contains,  besides  standard  works  of 
all  classes  and  in  all  editions,  the  newest 
books,  of  whatever  order,  on  the  day  of 
their  publication. 

It  sells  more  books,  far  and  away,  than 
any  other  two  American  stores  combined. 
This  leads  to  another  important  fact — that, 
whenever  special  lots  of  books  are  offered, 
our  immense  distributing  powers  make  it 
possible  to  get  these  offerings  at  the  lowest 
possible  prices. 

Libraries  will  find  it  to  their  advantage 
to  keep  in  touch  with  us,  as  our  facilities  for 
filling  orders,  whether  large  or  small,  are 
better,  our  prices  lower,  than  those  of  any 
other  house. 


1 

5 


We  issue  a  special  catalogue  of 
rare  editions  and  books  in  fine 
bindings,  mostly  bought  abroad. 
We  shall  be  glad  to  send  this,  as 
well  as  our  general  Book  Cata» 
logue,  free  on  request. 

HN  WANAMAKER 

NEW  YORK 


Broadway  Central  Hotel 

NOS.  667  TO  677  )    ^^^'^^  ^  ^ebb.  mgr.      ,  MIDWAY 

CORNER        hNFW   YORK  ^between  battery  and 

THIRD  STREET.  )        ^  iwi^r^j  CENTRAL  PARK. 


Has  during  the  past  Ave  years  been  thoroughly  rebuilt  and  completely  reorganized  at 
an  expense  of  over  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars,  and  Is  perfect  in  detail  and  unsurpassed  in 
comfort  and  convenience.  Recommends  itself  for  its  thoroughly  careful  management,  Its 
clean,  well-kept  rooms,  admirable  table  and  service,  and  reasonable  charges. 

LOCATION  ABSOLUTELY  UNEQI  ALKI)  FOR  BUSINESS,  SKillT-SEEINO,  AM)  I'LEASVRE. 

All  the  New  Rapid  Transit  Electric  Lines  passing  the  doors,  run  the  entire  length  of 
Broadway  from  the  Battery  to  Central  Park,  Grand  Central  R.  R.  Station,  Lcuox  Avenue, 
Harlem  River,  High  Bridge,  and  Grant's  Tomb,  passing  all  the  fashionable  stores,  theatres, 
and  principal  attractions  of  the  city. 

GRAND  CENTRAL  DEPOT  PASSENGERS  CAN  TAKE  SUBWAY  TRAINS  TO  BLEECKER  STREET, 

one  block  from  hotel,  or  Lexington  avenue  electric  cars  one  block  cast  of  the  station, 
direct  to  or  froln  the  hotel  to  42d  Street,  or  Fourth  Avenue  cars  direct  to  Astor  Place  or 
Bond  Street,  one  block  in  front. 

two  lines  of  elevated  RAILROADS:  Sixth  Avenue  Station,  Bleecker  Street,  one 
block  In  the  rear.  Third  Avenue  Station,  Houston  Street,  two  blocks  in  front. 

All  cross-town  cars  transfer  at  Broadway  with  the  electric  lines,  taking  guests  direct 
to  the  hotel. 

Passengers  arriving  by  any  of  the  ferries,  or  either  foreign  or  coastwise  steamors,  can 
take  any  cross-town  car,  or  walk  to  Broadway  and  take  electric  cars  direct  to  the  hotel  or 
via  the  Sixth  or  Third  Avenue  Elevated,  stopping  at  Bleecker  on  Sixth  Avenue,  and 
Houston  Street  Station  on  Third  Avenue  line,  three  minutes  from  hotel. 

The  Central  will  be  run  on  both  the  American  and  European  Plan. 

The  Regular  Tariff  of  Charges  for  each  person  will  be 
For  Room  only,    -----     $100,  $1.50,  and  $2.00 

For  Room  and  Board,     -     -     -     $2.50,  $3.00,  and  $3.50 
For  Single  Meals,     -     --     --     --     -       75  cents 

Meals,  when  taken  with  rooms,  for  full  day,  50  cents  each 
Rooms  with  parlor  or  bath,  extra 
According  to  size,  location,  and  convenience,  and  whether  occupied  by  one  or  more  persons 

SPECIAL  rates  for  FAMILIES  OR  PERMANENT  QUESTS. 

FOR    FULL    PARTICULARS,  SEND    FOR  LARGE  COLORED  MAP 

FREE  AND  OTHER  INFORMATION  TO 
UNITED  STATES    TILLY  HAYNES,    BROADWAY  CENTRAL 
HOTEL,  PROPRIETOR.  HOTEL, 

BOSTON.  OABLJC  ADDRESS  "tilly/'  NEW  YORK 


BIRD'S=f:YE, 


Map  of  New  York 

For  full  particulars  send  for  large  colored  maps 
and  other  information. 


With  compliments  of  the 

Bf^oadway  Ce.ntb.al  Hotill 

UNITED  STATES  HOTEL         TILLY    'B.A.'Y^'E^S  9  'BROADWAY  CENTRAL  HOTEL 
BOSTON  PROPRIETOR.  VEW  YORK 


LiBRARY 
or  THE 
UNIVERSiTY  OF  ILLINOI? 


LARGE  SCALE 

SECTIONAL  MAPS 

SHOW 

111  izir^r^i-S''^''^^'^^'-''  — 

and  numbers. 
All  range  and  meridian  lines.  ,,,^vpv 
Jll  sXs  according  to  Government  survey. 
All  railroads  and  important  towns.  ^^^p,^^^^ 
All  other  details  necessary  to  maKe  me 

COMPLETE  LIST  Or  OUR  LARGE  SCALE 
SECTIONAL  MAPS. 


SECTIONAL  MAPS 


Scale 

of 
miles 
to  the 
inch. 


Pocket 
Map. 


Arkansas  (township numbered,  not  named) . 
Kitj.w°n^&mberedVnot-nam^^^^ 

Ind"ana\\vi£hmVriinalto^^^^^^  - 

Iowa  . 


Paper  I  Cloth 
Back  Back 
Wall  Wall 
Map.  I  Map 


Diamond 

Case. 


Kansas^townsWsn^inberedVn^^ 

Michigan    

Minnesota    

Mississippi  ;  

Missouri    

Wisconsin   .  


$1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1  50 
1.50 
1.50 
1  50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 


$2.00 
2.00 
2  00 
2  00 
2.00 
2.00 
2.00 
2.00 
2  00 
2.00 
3.00 
2.00 
2.00 
2.U0 
2.00 


1$  3.00 
2.50 
3.00 
3.00 
3  00 
3.00 
3  00 
3  00 
3.00 
3.00 
3  00 
3.00 
3.00 
3  00 
3.00 
3  00 
3.00 


5.00 

4.50 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5.00 

5  00 

5.00 

5.00 


We  will  send  these  maps  by  mail  or  prepaid  express 
address  in  the  United  States  at  prices  named. 

RAND,  NIcNALLY  &  CO 

149  Filth  Ave.,  NEW  YORK. 


to  any 


160-174  Adams  St.,  CHICAGO. 


NORMANDIE  HOTEL 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.     Opposite  McPherson  Square 

Within  one  square  of  the  Treasury  and  White 
House,  contiguous  to  all  points  of  interest  and 
located  in  the  most  fashionable  part  of  Washington 

Rates:    European  Plan,  $1.50  per  day  and  up 
American  Plan,  $3.50  per  day  and  up 

P.  H.  S.  CAKE,  Manager 


Special  inducements  to  COMMERCIAL  MEN  with  samples.  Thirty  large  and 
well  lighted  SAMPLE  ROOMS,  with  or  without  bath.    Forty  large  front 
suites,  with  parlor,  two  bedrooms,  and  private  bath;  suitable 
for  families  or  parties  traveling  together. 

THE  GERMAN  RESTAURANT 

Is  Broadway's  greatest  attraction  for  special  food  dishes  and  popular  music. 


European  Plan-Rates: 
SINGLE  Room  without  Bath,  $1.50  upward 

Single  Room,  with  Bath,  $2.00  upward 

suites: 

Parlor,  Bedroom,  and  Bath,  $3.00  upward 
Parlor,  Two  bedrooms,  and  Bath,  private  hall, 

$5.00  UPWARD 
$1.00    EXTRA  WHERE  TWO  PERSONS   OCCUPY  A  SrNGLE  ROOM 


The  hotel  is  of  fireproof  construction  and  the  sanitation 
is  first-class,  as  the  building  is  modern  and  up  to  date 

Write  for  booklet 

SWEENEY-TIERNEY  HOTEL  COMPANY 

E,.  M.  TIERNE,Y,  Manager 

4   


All  =  Water  Route 

WASHINGTON 
N  EW  "^Vo  RK 

In  connection  with  the  superb  steamers  of  the  NORFOLK 
AND  WASHINGTON,  D.  C,  STEAMBOAT  CO..  and  the 

Old  Dominion  Line 


FARES  FROM  WASHINGTON,  D.  C. ,  TO  NEW  YORK 

Washington  Boat  to  Old  Point  Comfort  or  Norfolk, 
Old  Dominion  Line  to  New  York  (Limit  of 
ticket,  3  days)   $8.75 

Excursion  (Limit  of  ticket,  11  days)  $15.00 

Excursion  (Return  Rail,  Nev/  York  to  Washington, 

Limit  of  ticket,  11  days)   $15.00 

All  above  rates  include  meals  and  stateroom  berth  on  Old 

Dominion  Steamer,  but  on  Washington  boat  these  are  extra 

Leave  Washington,  daily,  -  -  -  -  6.30  p.  m. 
Leave  Alexandria,  dally,  -  -  -  -  7.00  p.  m. 
Arrive  Fortress  Monroe,  daily,  -  -  -  7.00  a.  m. 
Arrive  Norf ork,  daily,        -       -       -       -        8.00  a.  m. 

Old  Dominion  Steamers,  northbound,  daily  from  Norfolk 
at  7  p.  m.    (Sunday  excepted). 

Tickets  for  sale  in  Washington  at  the  following  offices': 
Norfolk  and  Washington  Steamboat  Company  Ticket 
Office,  Colorado   Building,  705  Fourteenth  Street  N.  W., 
Company's  Wharf,  foot  of  Seventh  Street;  513  Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue;  and  C.  &  0.  Ry.  609  Fourteenth  Street,  N.  W. 

W.  H.  CALLAHAN,  J.  J.  BROWN,  G.  P.  A., 

G.  P.  A  Norfolk  &  Wash^  S.  B.  Co.  q.  D.  S.  S.  Co. 

Washington,  D.  C. 


ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J.   Woria-s  Renowned  Health  Resort. 


IIATI?f  DfTHAflT  OPEN  ALL  YEAR.  Largest  and  most  Modern  Hotel 
llVitfL  aVUVLL  on  Coast.  SPACIOUS  NEW  SUN  PARLORS  and 
VERANDAS  directly  on  Board  Walk,  affording  unobstructed  view  of  Ocean  and 
Esplanade.  Private  Baths,  with  hot  and  cold  sea  water,  and  fresh  water  connec- 
tions.   Unexcelled  Cuisine,  under  personal  supervision  of  the  management. 

American  or  European  Plan.  SPECIAL  RATES  FOR  THE  WINTER  SEASON 
NOW  IN  EFFECT.  JOEL  HILLMAN,  Proprietor. 

Also  proprietor  "Harvey's"  Restaurant,  Washington,  D.  C.  When  in  Wash- 
ington don't  fail  to  try  "Harvey's"  famous  sea  food  and  game  specialties. 

A.  S.  RUKEYSER,  Manager.  Send  for  Booklet. 

RAND,McNALLY<SCO. 

CHICAGO  AND   NEW  YORK 

Printers  and  Publishers 

THE 
LARGEST 
AND  BEST 
EQUIPPED 
PLANT  FOR 
PRINTING 
IN  ALL 
BRANCHES 

ENGRAVING 

BY  ALL 
PROCESSES 

ELECTRO- 
TYPING  AND 
BINDING 

Send  for  Estimates 

RAND.  McNALLY  4  CO.  Chicago  and  New  York 


Hotel  Jackson 

Virginia  AVe.  and  the  Beach.  ATLANTIC  CITY,  N.  J. 
Absolutely  Fireproof 


OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR 

a    0  0 

200  Ocean  View  Rooms 

All  modern  improvements.     It  is  considered  the  most  substan- 
tially constructed  building  in  the  City. 

0  0 

SPECIAL     American  Plan 

FALL  ^"'i  $12.50  per  week,  up;  $2.50  per  day,  up. 

WINTER     European  Plan 
RATES  $1.00  per  day,  up. 

FINEST  CAFE  IN  THE  CITY         "  "  "  ^^^^  ORCHESTRA 

JOHN  CRUSE 


WINDSOR  HOTEL 

ON  FILBERT  STREET 

Midway  between  Broad  Street  Station  and  Reading  Terminal 

An  Excellent  Restaurant 
where  Good  Service  Com- 
bines with  Low  Prices 

Rooms,  $1.00  per 
day  and  up 

THE  ONLY  MODERATE  PRICED  HOTEL 
OF  REPUTATION  AND  CONSEQUENCE  IN 

PHILADELPHIA 


NE,W  HOTEL  ALBERT 

 NEW  YORK  CITY  ============== 

Corner  University  and  llth  Sts. 
One  Block  West  of  Broadway 


EUROPEAN  PLAN 


The  only  absolutely 
fire-proof  hotel 
below  23d  Street 

AU  modern  conveniences 

400  rooms  $1.00  per  day  up 

100  with  private  batli— 
$2.00  per  day  up 

Send  for  Illustrated  Booklet  and  Guide  of  New  York  City 


GOING  TO  BOSTON?  TRY  THE 

NEW  AMERICAN 

and  its  RATHSKELLER,  the  most  unique  room  of  its  kind  in  tbe 
country.   HanoVer  Street,  near  Scoltay  Square  Station  of  SubWay, 
EUROPEAN  PLAN.  BOSTON,  MASS, 


SITUATED  iN  THE  BUSINESS  PORTION  OF  THE  CITY 

The  House  is  convenient  to  the  historical  places  of  interest,  shopping  districts, 
amusements,  Steamboat  Lines,  Railroad  Stations,  etc.  Best  rooms  in  the  city  for 
the  price:  $1.00  per  day  and  upward-baths,  $2.00  per  day  and  upward.  Running 
hot  and  cold  water  in  every  room,  also  Public  Telephones. 

Every  room  with  steam  heat  and  lighted  by  electricity.  Our  extensive  refum- 
ishmgs  and  additions,  including  tiled  bathrooms  and  new  open  plumbing,  give  our 
patrons  all  the  modern  conveniences  at  moderate  rates. 

From  South  Station  take  Federal  Street  surface  car,  stop  at  Washington  Street 
corner  Elm  Street;  or  take  elevated  train  to  Scollay  Square.  From  North  Station' 
leave  surface  cars  at  Washington  Street,  corner  Elm  Street;  leave  elevated  train  at 
bcollay  Square.  Commercial  men  will  1i"d  the  House  conveniently  located  for 
visiting  the  surrounding  towns  without  loss  of  time. 


C.  A.  JOJVES,  Proprietor.     A.  C.  JONES.  Manager. 


HERALD  SQUARE  HOTEI 

EUROPEAN  PLAN  — 


«j*tiii  oircci  ana  uroauwa 

NEW  YORK 

In  (he  Heart  of  the  City 

NEW.  FIREPROOF 

Located  in  the  center  c 
the  retail  shopping  and 
theatre  districts 

Easy  of  access  from  sill  pait 
of  the  city 

Room,  with  privilege  of  bath,  $1.50  per  day  and  upwa 
Room,  with  private  bath,  $2.00  per  day  and  upwards 
Restaurant  a  la  carte  Popular  club  breakfas 


Cable  Address 
Wilderald 


C.  F.  Wildey  ©  Son,  Props, 


COSMOPOLITAN  HOTEL 


CHAMBERS  ST.  AND  WEST  BROADWAY: 


NEW  YORK 


EUROPEAN  PLAN 


Rooms  $1.00  per  day  and  upwards.  Convenient  to  wholesale 
district.  Spacious  Restaurant  and  Lunch  Rooms.  Popular  prices. 
Easy  of  access  from  all  railroad  stations  and  ferries. 

"""M^oman"  O.  F.  Wildey  6  Son,  Props. 


i 


